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PC Fails to power on upon being put together

DenShazo
Go to solution Solved by Jisagi,
8 hours ago, DenShazo said:

Reseated the CMOS battery before I tried shorting the board using this video as a reference 

No reaction.

 

 

If shorting the board doesn't help, trying to short the PSU would be a good way to check that individually. Here are some good instructions for that. https://www.silverstonetek.com/downloads/QA/PSU/PSU-Paper Clip-EN.pdf

If that doesn't work and the PSU refuses to power on at all, it's dead or the cable for it is broken, but either way, it fit for RMA.

Hello!

 

I recently put together a brand new PC for my father, who wants to use it for video editing. Upon testing out the first power supply, a Thermaltake SMART 600W ATX 12V V2.3/EPS 12V 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply PS-SPD-0600NPCWUS-W, there was no reaction from the motherboard. The box it came in was slightly beat up so i chalked it up to the PSU being damaged and reordered another. The box the new one came in was pristine, yet it still failed to power the PC so i am lead to believe the problem lies elsewhere. I did some research and apparently some motherboards have pins that have to be bridged(?) for power run properly.

 

This is my first time working with AMD and it has proven to be a headache, so any help would be appreciated.

 

Here's the list of parts for the build 

 

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are you sure the power button is plugged in correctly and actually works?

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are you sure you connected the power button cable in the right pin? i think that is the first thing that should be asked. 

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5 minutes ago, emosun said:

are you sure the power button is plugged in correctly and actually works?

It's not that the power button doesn't work. When i connect the PSU and flip the switch on the back to provide power to the PC, the lights don't flash and fans don't move. 

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He 

9 minutes ago, Jeruzalem said:

are you sure you connected the power button cable in the right pin? i think that is the first thing that should be asked. 

He means the cases power button and wether it is connected to the motherboard ( if you don’t know where it is just read the motherboards manual ) ( if you already thought of that I don’t know what to do)

Hi

 

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hi

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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This is what the wiring looks like at the moment. 

20200521_150822.jpg

20200521_153327.jpg

20200521_153318.jpg

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7 minutes ago, DenShazo said:

This is my first time working with AMD and it has proven to be a headache, so any help would be appreciated.

 

its not an amd thing. the front panel connectors have been the same on both intel and amd for years.

 

1 minute ago, DenShazo said:

It's not that the power button doesn't work. When i connect the PSU and flip the switch on the back to provide power to the PC, the lights don't flash and fans don't move. 

they aren't supposed to. it happens on some systems but not all. I believe the tomahawk doesnt do it.

 

This is from Page 17 of the Tomahawk manual.

image.thumb.png.a5b43030667f62b6e3ab37f5383cab3f.png

make sure you're plugging it in right.

Main Rig: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 9 3950X Processor (Stock, -0.1V offset)  /// Motherboard: Asus Pro WS X570-Ace /// CPU Cooler: Deepcool GamerStorm Castle 360 RGB V2 /// GPU: Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® RTX 2080 SUPER™ 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V 128GB (4x32GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850i /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe (boot) + 1TB WD Black SN750 NVMe (Working Drive) + 2x 1TB Samsung 850 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD RAID0 (Game Library) + 2TB Seagate BarraCuda (Backup) /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (Main Rig): Mouse: Logitech MX Master 3 + Logitech G903 Lightspeed /// Keyboard: Keychron Q1 ANSI - JWK Lavender Linear Switches (TX Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Durock V2 Stabilisers, Polycarbonate Plate, Tape Mod, GMK Blue Samurai + Keychron K4 V2 Hotswap RGB Aluminum Frame - Gateron Milky Black (Deskeys Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Foam Mod, Tape Mod, GMK Rainy Day PBT Clones /// Tablet: Wacom Intuos M BT /// Monitor: 4x LG 27UL500-W (4K IPS Freesync) /// DAC: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 /// Speakers: Logitech Z625 /// Mic: Focusrite CM25 MkII /// Headphones: Audio-Technica ATH-M50x, ATH-LS70iS IEMs /// Racing Wheel: Logitech G920 Driving Force with Shifter /// Eye Tracker: Steelseries Sentry  /// External Drives: 500GB Samsung T5 SSD (Working Drive)

 

Home Server - NASty: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 7 2700x Processor /// Motherboard: Asus PRIME X470-Pro  /// CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 /// GPU: Gigabyte GeForce® GT 1030 OC 2G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 64GB (4x16GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R5 Window /// PSU: Corsair RM750x /// Storage: LSI SAS 9211-8i (IT Mode) + 10x 4TB Seagate Exos Enterprise Drive /// OS: UNRaid

 

Tester Rig: CPU: AMD Athlon™ 200GE Processor /// Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VI Hero WIFI  /// CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism RGB /// GPU: Palit GeForce® GTX 1050 2GB StromX /// RAM: Klevv Bolt 8GB (1x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15 /// Chassis: The AMAZING $30 "Computer Case"! /// PSU: Seasonic Focus GX-750 /// Storage: 1TB Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD + 240GB Transcend SSD220S 2.5" SATA SSD /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Laptop (Asus UX430UN): CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-8550U Processor  /// GPU: NVIDIA GeForce MX150 /// RAM: 16GB 2133Mhz /// Storage: 512GB SanDisk SD8SN8U512G1002 (boot) /// OS: Windows 10 Home

 

Other Tech: Console: Xbox One S 1TB, Apple TV 4K /// Printer: Canon imageCLASS MF635Cx /// Phone: Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 256GB Graphite (Daily Driver)  /// Tablet: Apple iPad 9.7-inch Wi-Fi (2018) 32GB + Apple Pencil (1st Generation) /// Headphones: Apple Airpods Pro, Sony WF-1000XM3, Sony WH-1000XM3 /// Smartwatch: Apple Watch Series 6 GPS Space Grey

 

Cameras: Bodies: Canon EOS-1D X Mark II, Canon EOS 5D Mark IV,  Sony A6000 /// Lenses: Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8L USM, Canon EF 16-35mm F/2.8L II USM, Canon EF 70-200mm F/2.8L IS II USM, Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD G2 (Canon), Sony SEL-P1650 E 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 PZ OSS /// Lighting: 2x Godox SL60-W Continuous LED, 2x Canon Speedlite 580EXII /// Tripods: Leofoto LS-324C Carbon Fiber Tripod + Leofoto LH-40 Ballhead, Leofoto MC-80 Multipurpose Clamp, Triopo DG-3 Gimbal Head /// Yes, I am a Canon Fanboy, deal with it

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1 minute ago, DenShazo said:

This is what the wiring looks like at the moment. 

 

can i have a closer look at the bottom right of the motherboard

Main Rig: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 9 3950X Processor (Stock, -0.1V offset)  /// Motherboard: Asus Pro WS X570-Ace /// CPU Cooler: Deepcool GamerStorm Castle 360 RGB V2 /// GPU: Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® RTX 2080 SUPER™ 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V 128GB (4x32GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850i /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe (boot) + 1TB WD Black SN750 NVMe (Working Drive) + 2x 1TB Samsung 850 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD RAID0 (Game Library) + 2TB Seagate BarraCuda (Backup) /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (Main Rig): Mouse: Logitech MX Master 3 + Logitech G903 Lightspeed /// Keyboard: Keychron Q1 ANSI - JWK Lavender Linear Switches (TX Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Durock V2 Stabilisers, Polycarbonate Plate, Tape Mod, GMK Blue Samurai + Keychron K4 V2 Hotswap RGB Aluminum Frame - Gateron Milky Black (Deskeys Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Foam Mod, Tape Mod, GMK Rainy Day PBT Clones /// Tablet: Wacom Intuos M BT /// Monitor: 4x LG 27UL500-W (4K IPS Freesync) /// DAC: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 /// Speakers: Logitech Z625 /// Mic: Focusrite CM25 MkII /// Headphones: Audio-Technica ATH-M50x, ATH-LS70iS IEMs /// Racing Wheel: Logitech G920 Driving Force with Shifter /// Eye Tracker: Steelseries Sentry  /// External Drives: 500GB Samsung T5 SSD (Working Drive)

 

Home Server - NASty: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 7 2700x Processor /// Motherboard: Asus PRIME X470-Pro  /// CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 /// GPU: Gigabyte GeForce® GT 1030 OC 2G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 64GB (4x16GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R5 Window /// PSU: Corsair RM750x /// Storage: LSI SAS 9211-8i (IT Mode) + 10x 4TB Seagate Exos Enterprise Drive /// OS: UNRaid

 

Tester Rig: CPU: AMD Athlon™ 200GE Processor /// Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VI Hero WIFI  /// CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism RGB /// GPU: Palit GeForce® GTX 1050 2GB StromX /// RAM: Klevv Bolt 8GB (1x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15 /// Chassis: The AMAZING $30 "Computer Case"! /// PSU: Seasonic Focus GX-750 /// Storage: 1TB Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD + 240GB Transcend SSD220S 2.5" SATA SSD /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Laptop (Asus UX430UN): CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-8550U Processor  /// GPU: NVIDIA GeForce MX150 /// RAM: 16GB 2133Mhz /// Storage: 512GB SanDisk SD8SN8U512G1002 (boot) /// OS: Windows 10 Home

 

Other Tech: Console: Xbox One S 1TB, Apple TV 4K /// Printer: Canon imageCLASS MF635Cx /// Phone: Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 256GB Graphite (Daily Driver)  /// Tablet: Apple iPad 9.7-inch Wi-Fi (2018) 32GB + Apple Pencil (1st Generation) /// Headphones: Apple Airpods Pro, Sony WF-1000XM3, Sony WH-1000XM3 /// Smartwatch: Apple Watch Series 6 GPS Space Grey

 

Cameras: Bodies: Canon EOS-1D X Mark II, Canon EOS 5D Mark IV,  Sony A6000 /// Lenses: Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8L USM, Canon EF 16-35mm F/2.8L II USM, Canon EF 70-200mm F/2.8L IS II USM, Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD G2 (Canon), Sony SEL-P1650 E 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 PZ OSS /// Lighting: 2x Godox SL60-W Continuous LED, 2x Canon Speedlite 580EXII /// Tripods: Leofoto LS-324C Carbon Fiber Tripod + Leofoto LH-40 Ballhead, Leofoto MC-80 Multipurpose Clamp, Triopo DG-3 Gimbal Head /// Yes, I am a Canon Fanboy, deal with it

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2 minutes ago, DenShazo said:

This is what the wiring looks like at the moment. 

 

and are you sure you sent the right pictures, first image looks to be a tomahawk the other 2 images look to be an aorus board

Main Rig: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 9 3950X Processor (Stock, -0.1V offset)  /// Motherboard: Asus Pro WS X570-Ace /// CPU Cooler: Deepcool GamerStorm Castle 360 RGB V2 /// GPU: Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® RTX 2080 SUPER™ 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V 128GB (4x32GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850i /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe (boot) + 1TB WD Black SN750 NVMe (Working Drive) + 2x 1TB Samsung 850 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD RAID0 (Game Library) + 2TB Seagate BarraCuda (Backup) /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (Main Rig): Mouse: Logitech MX Master 3 + Logitech G903 Lightspeed /// Keyboard: Keychron Q1 ANSI - JWK Lavender Linear Switches (TX Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Durock V2 Stabilisers, Polycarbonate Plate, Tape Mod, GMK Blue Samurai + Keychron K4 V2 Hotswap RGB Aluminum Frame - Gateron Milky Black (Deskeys Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Foam Mod, Tape Mod, GMK Rainy Day PBT Clones /// Tablet: Wacom Intuos M BT /// Monitor: 4x LG 27UL500-W (4K IPS Freesync) /// DAC: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 /// Speakers: Logitech Z625 /// Mic: Focusrite CM25 MkII /// Headphones: Audio-Technica ATH-M50x, ATH-LS70iS IEMs /// Racing Wheel: Logitech G920 Driving Force with Shifter /// Eye Tracker: Steelseries Sentry  /// External Drives: 500GB Samsung T5 SSD (Working Drive)

 

Home Server - NASty: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 7 2700x Processor /// Motherboard: Asus PRIME X470-Pro  /// CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 /// GPU: Gigabyte GeForce® GT 1030 OC 2G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 64GB (4x16GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R5 Window /// PSU: Corsair RM750x /// Storage: LSI SAS 9211-8i (IT Mode) + 10x 4TB Seagate Exos Enterprise Drive /// OS: UNRaid

 

Tester Rig: CPU: AMD Athlon™ 200GE Processor /// Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VI Hero WIFI  /// CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism RGB /// GPU: Palit GeForce® GTX 1050 2GB StromX /// RAM: Klevv Bolt 8GB (1x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15 /// Chassis: The AMAZING $30 "Computer Case"! /// PSU: Seasonic Focus GX-750 /// Storage: 1TB Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD + 240GB Transcend SSD220S 2.5" SATA SSD /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Laptop (Asus UX430UN): CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-8550U Processor  /// GPU: NVIDIA GeForce MX150 /// RAM: 16GB 2133Mhz /// Storage: 512GB SanDisk SD8SN8U512G1002 (boot) /// OS: Windows 10 Home

 

Other Tech: Console: Xbox One S 1TB, Apple TV 4K /// Printer: Canon imageCLASS MF635Cx /// Phone: Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 256GB Graphite (Daily Driver)  /// Tablet: Apple iPad 9.7-inch Wi-Fi (2018) 32GB + Apple Pencil (1st Generation) /// Headphones: Apple Airpods Pro, Sony WF-1000XM3, Sony WH-1000XM3 /// Smartwatch: Apple Watch Series 6 GPS Space Grey

 

Cameras: Bodies: Canon EOS-1D X Mark II, Canon EOS 5D Mark IV,  Sony A6000 /// Lenses: Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8L USM, Canon EF 16-35mm F/2.8L II USM, Canon EF 70-200mm F/2.8L IS II USM, Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD G2 (Canon), Sony SEL-P1650 E 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 PZ OSS /// Lighting: 2x Godox SL60-W Continuous LED, 2x Canon Speedlite 580EXII /// Tripods: Leofoto LS-324C Carbon Fiber Tripod + Leofoto LH-40 Ballhead, Leofoto MC-80 Multipurpose Clamp, Triopo DG-3 Gimbal Head /// Yes, I am a Canon Fanboy, deal with it

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3 minutes ago, berberries said:

and are you sure you sent the right pictures, first image looks to be a tomahawk the other 2 images look to be an aorus board

 

20200529_180117.jpg

20200529_180137.jpg

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This is a closer look at the JFP1 section. The only missing things are the reset switch 

20200529_180949.jpg

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is your power switch connected to the correct pins and does it work?

18 minutes ago, Drama Lama said:

He means the cases power button

she

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1 minute ago, emosun said:

is your power switch connected to the correct pins and does it work?

she

sorry 

Hi

 

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hi

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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are you pressing the power button or only the psu switch?

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1 minute ago, emosun said:

is your power switch connected to the correct pins and does it work?

she

The pins are correct, as far as the diagram goes.

 

Just now, emosun said:

are you pressing the power button or only the psu switch?

Both. It doesn't power on.

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unplug the button and just short the pins to see if that works

if not then check you have the cpu power plug in , not the 24 pin but the 4-8 pin.

If still a no go , then remove anything the machine does not need to simply power on (drives , cards , fans , ram) and see if that makes it power on.

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Update: pulled out the GPU, and reinserted the psu + front panel cables.  No dice.

22 hours ago, emosun said:

unplug the button and just short the pins to see if that works

if not then check you have the cpu power plug in , not the 24 pin but the 4-8 pin.

If still a no go , then remove anything the machine does not need to simply power on (drives , cards , fans , ram) and see if that makes it power on.

What do you mean by shorting the pins

20200530_163406.jpg

20200530_163416.jpg

20200529_180137.jpg

20200529_180949.jpg

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Just to throw in another idea here: He could also try to jump start the PSU standalone and see if it even works. This is not *that* beginner, but the best way to test the first device in the whole chain. You can find many tutorials for this on the web, but I am hesitant to suggest it to a beginner, since this can (in theory) damage the PSU and pose a threat to you as well. But in generall, you manually short the pins (top row from the left: 4+5) to start the PSU which would normally be done by the board. It's basically the same as suggestion of emosun, just one step before that, to exclude the board from the equation.

If the PSU works, the mainboard would be my next guess. Try to short the pins, as emosun aleady suggested. If that doesn't work, try to get a new bios battery and if that fails, too, it really does sounds like the board is either dead or has some other problem a new board shouldn't have.

Gaming Rig: Ryzen 9 5950x | 2x16GB DDR4 3200MHz | XFX Reference 6800 XT | MSI Unify X570 | Corsair MP600 2TB, Samsung 850 Evo 500GB | bequiet 850W Straight Power 11

Server: Ryzen 5 3600 | 4x32GB DDR4 ECC 2400MHz | Asrock Rack X470D4U | Samsung EVO Plus 250GB, 6x Seagate Exos 8TB, Samsung 850 Pro 1TB | bequiet 550W Straight Power 11

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30 minutes ago, Jisagi said:

Just to throw in another idea here: He could also try to jump start the PSU standalone and see if it even works. This is not *that* beginner, but the best way to test the first device in the whole chain. You can find many tutorials for this on the web, but I am hesitant to suggest it to a beginner, since this can (in theory) damage the PSU and pose a threat to you as well. But in generall, you manually short the pins (top row from the left: 4+5) to start the PSU which would normally be done by the board. It's basically the same as suggestion of emosun, just one step before that, to exclude the board from the equation.

If the PSU works, the mainboard would be my next guess. Try to short the pins, as emosun aleady suggested. If that doesn't work, try to get a new bios battery and if that fails, too, it really does sounds like the board is either dead or has some other problem a new board shouldn't have.

I will try these and see if it works

 

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I forgot to mention that there's a cable from the front panel that's there, but I don't see a place it can be connected to on the motherboard 

20200530_202243.jpg

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4 hours ago, Jisagi said:

Just to throw in another idea here: He could also try to jump start the PSU standalone and see if it even works. This is not *that* beginner, but the best way to test the first device in the whole chain. You can find many tutorials for this on the web, but I am hesitant to suggest it to a beginner, since this can (in theory) damage the PSU and pose a threat to you as well. But in generall, you manually short the pins (top row from the left: 4+5) to start the PSU which would normally be done by the board. It's basically the same as suggestion of emosun, just one step before that, to exclude the board from the equation.

If the PSU works, the mainboard would be my next guess. Try to short the pins, as emosun aleady suggested. If that doesn't work, try to get a new bios battery and if that fails, too, it really does sounds like the board is either dead or has some other problem a new board shouldn't have.

Reseated the CMOS battery before I tried shorting the board using this video as a reference 

No reaction.

 

 

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8 hours ago, DenShazo said:

Reseated the CMOS battery before I tried shorting the board using this video as a reference 

No reaction.

 

 

If shorting the board doesn't help, trying to short the PSU would be a good way to check that individually. Here are some good instructions for that. https://www.silverstonetek.com/downloads/QA/PSU/PSU-Paper Clip-EN.pdf

If that doesn't work and the PSU refuses to power on at all, it's dead or the cable for it is broken, but either way, it fit for RMA.

Gaming Rig: Ryzen 9 5950x | 2x16GB DDR4 3200MHz | XFX Reference 6800 XT | MSI Unify X570 | Corsair MP600 2TB, Samsung 850 Evo 500GB | bequiet 850W Straight Power 11

Server: Ryzen 5 3600 | 4x32GB DDR4 ECC 2400MHz | Asrock Rack X470D4U | Samsung EVO Plus 250GB, 6x Seagate Exos 8TB, Samsung 850 Pro 1TB | bequiet 550W Straight Power 11

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On 5/31/2020 at 6:59 AM, Jisagi said:

If shorting the board doesn't help, trying to short the PSU would be a good way to check that individually. Here are some good instructions for that. https://www.silverstonetek.com/downloads/QA/PSU/PSU-Paper Clip-EN.pdf

If that doesn't work and the PSU refuses to power on at all, it's dead or the cable for it is broken, but either way, it fit for RMA.

The short test worked for the power supply! Gonna reconnect it to the mobo now to see if everything boots up as well

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Shorted the Mobo with the PSU and it came alive!

On 5/29/2020 at 6:21 PM, emosun said:

unplug the button and just short the pins to see if that works

if not then check you have the cpu power plug in , not the 24 pin but the 4-8 pin.

If still a no go , then remove anything the machine does not need to simply power on (drives , cards , fans , ram) and see if that makes it power on.

I didn't know about shorting pins on the mobo, or jump starting PSUs before this so i appreciate you all for enlightening me. Learned a couple of new things these past few days.

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By the way, i dont know if I missed the answer. But the connecter that you showed a picture of and didnt know where it went, is for the front usb type c. Unfortunately, the tomahawk max does not have support for that, but there should be a type c on the rear i/o though

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