Launch Day PS3 CECHA01 Modding

[DTX]

So I turns out I have an launch PS3 model CECHA01 from 2006 and it still works. It survived dust, time, flights, xray machines... you name it but I am afraid that after 14 years I might lose it. Value wise I'd say it is worth at least $500 to me, after all it has very special features so investing a little bit to keep it going might be worth it. We all know the PS3 will eventually fry itself and get YLOD. Fat models, specially the original ones with big dyes and inefficient PSUs are more prone to failure. At the moment, I can play on it for 5+ hours without it turning off, I've never seen a temperature error and the worst is a lightly loud fan when playing and hairdryer warm air blowing out the top since I keep it vertical.

 

At start, the air blowing out is cool and temps are 45C CPU and 38C RSX(GPU), they slowly climb a degree at a time while on the menu, in like 5 minutes of not doing anything, I am up to 60C CPU and 50C RSX, air blowing out is no longer cool, it feels neutral. This is all in a 71F controlled room. After loading a NFS game and doing a couple of 5 minute races, I am looking at 74C CPU and 58C RSX, air is a bit warm. If I were to play for 3+ hours, I'd be getting heat vent temp air and probably 85-90 CPU and 80ish RSX and I find that unacceptable for such a wonderful little computer.

 

The goal is to keep the PS3 alive and cool under load even if I have to cannibalize it a bit or spend my entire 1650 Super budget on it.

 

iFixit tear down of PS3 for reference: https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/PlayStation+3+Teardown/1260

ATX PSU Mod: https://quade.co/2017/ps3-pc-power-supply/

Banana Connectors https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-AMASS-XT90-4-5mm-Female-Banana-Bullet-Connector-Plug-Lipo-Nimh-Battery-ARRMA-/381668590955?hash=item58dd38856b:g:WW8AAOSwM4xXbnRK

 

The plan is to open it up and do as follows:

 

Clean all the dust from the inside

This is free, should have all the tools necessary, possible R&D cost (see below) to avoid breaking something.

 

Replace the 15 blade fan with a 19 blade version [Fan upgrade]

I might already have a 19 blade fan, my PS3 might be Japanese before they moved production to China, can't seem to find new/clean 19 blade fans, see lots of 15-17 on Ebay so unless I can find and need, won't spend $15-20 upgrading it. I'll just clean it and keep the original that probably has way less wear than anything on ebay.

 

Replace the 14 year old Factory thermal compound with MX-4 thermal compound on the CPU and RSX [Thermal upgrade]

This seems to be the best upgrade I can do to control temps but also the most risky upgrade as there is a risk of cracking the dyes when wiping or taking it apart. I am considering blowing $30-50 dollars on a broken PS3 on ebay to practice on. Problem is that most of those have probably already been taken apart so I won't get the same resistance when removing the motherboard from the metal plates. If I get a unit that hasn't been messed with and has the same guts, I can use the guts of the other system to finish the case mod. Spending close to $100 at Gamestop on a working PS3 just to possibly kill it is a hard sale but then again, my PS3 is irreplaceable to me so it might be worth it and I could flip it and get some money back, i really don't know on this part and would appreciate suggestions. While I am at it, I will replace all the thermal pads with new high performance thermal pads. The pads I can get for about $15 and cut to size, the MX-4 would set me back another $10.

 

Replace the 14 year old 66.5% efficient Factory 380W PSU with an external ATX 90 Plus Bronze 450W PSU [External PSU mod][ATX PSU mod]

The only thing just as bad as 14 year old thermal paste is a 14 year old PSU that is probably creating as much heat as the CPU creates under load. It's location behind the CPU and RSX doesn't help things. I won't just take it out of the PS3 casing, I will replace it entirely with a Corsair CX450M ($57). I should be able to follow the linked PSU mod with my knowledge and skills. I'll pick up what skills I don't have as I go. Before I throw out the original PSU (380W), I'll cannibalizing it for the cable connector. I plan to use the linked Banana plugs on the PSU prongs instead of soldering directly to them to make the mod removable and safer. I would buy $10 of shrink tubing and if I can't borrow a heat gun, I'd have to buy one off Amazon for $25 which is a shame but I want to do things properly, without electrical tape. Add $20 for a soldering kit and a little extra if I want real solder and not what is included.

 

Here is where I start to throw money at the problem

 

Replace the 600GB HDD with a 500GB SATA Evo 860 or similar SSD [Storage upgrade]

That hard drive is at least 9 years old and after spending so much time in that oven, it should be close to dead. It's gotten it's fair share of disk usage over the years so I think it is fair to replace it with an SSD. Even if I lose some capacity, the speed boost is definitely welcome. With games, it would be mostly reads, not so many writes besides game installs. I can get a 500gb 860 Evo for $80 or pony up $107 for 1TB 860 QVO if they are as good as the EVOs. It should run cooler than the HDD, I can also get a SATA/power combo extension cable ($10) and take the SSD out of the HDD cage completely. Keep it somewhere cool.

 

Jam the PS3 into a mid ATX PC case [Case mod]

I already have PC towers behind my TVs (Monitors) and you must keep the PS3 in open space to keep it from frying itself so one more PC case won't hurt if it can keep it cooler than inside the original shell. The motherboard must be assembled with both metal plates as they allow me to install the heat sink, radiator and fan. The plates also function as thermal masses that absorb heat from the ICs through the thermal pads they are in contact with it, I need the bluray drive so for better or for worse, I am stuck with everything besides the PSU. The PS3 Fat 60GB has the most hardware, it is also the heaviest at 11 lbs. Even removing the PSU weight, it might be too much to comfortably hang after I drill my own mounting holes. The fan would also be in the back so it can't go flush with the case wall. It needs to rest on the bottom and it must stand on it's own. My solution is to cut everything besides the bottom 1-2 inches of the outer shell, just high enough so I can screw it on and stand it on this section of black casing. The back black cover would be gone exposing the metal fins and the only black casing left would be in the front where the power button is and the base so it can stand on it's own. The part that has the USB ports must be cut for maximum airflow. My go to case for years was the Corsair Spec-02 but it appears it has been discontinued. I can drive two hours to microcenter and get the Spec-02 Redshift for $68 but since the PSU would be on the bottom, I can't really sit the PS3 in there. I need a case that fits ATX size motherboards (PS3 is 12.8 x 11.5 inches) with a PSU shroud or top-mounted PSU so the PSU is not on the way, lots of air filters for intakes and exhausts, preferably exhausts at the top of the case for fans, preferably meshed front with room for 2 fans instead of pretty but relatively useless glass front panels, it must have 2 5-inch expansion bays since it looks like I need at least a fan controller for the 6-8 fans and a USB hub that I can pass through the internal USB ports individually for easy access. I can turn on the PSU with this PC remote starter thing I bought a few years ago, I'll just leave it on the 24 pin cable and use the remote. The controllers can turn on the actual system and they can also turn it off, I do need to go into the case for the bluray drive so metal sides instead of glass would be preferable. After I stand the PS3 inside the case, I will drill holes on the case wall and anchor to the main metal plate holes using 40-60mm standoffs and screws. Just to keep the PS3 from tipping over, the spare system would help for this part. So far the lead belongs to the Corsair 88R ($60). It might fit the PS3 on top of the PSU and HDD cage but it might be too short especially with top mounted fans and with only one bay so I would have to use an internal fan controller. I like the airflow of it though: https://puu.sh/F6T6O.png

https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Cases/Carbide-Series™-88R-MicroATX-Mid-Tower-Case/p/CC-9011086-WW

Ideally I want to try to find a case that is similar to the Spec 02 in features: Large enough to fit PS3 (ATX compatible) but mid-case instead of full-case, mesh front, top, bottom, lots of fans, 2 expansion bays

https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Cases/Carbide-Series™-SPEC-02-Red-LED-Mid-Tower-Gaming-Case/p/CC-9011051-WW

I almost want to go grab another Spec 02, remove the HDD Cage and stick the PS3 right in front of two strong filtered intake fans with the PSU behind it, the PSU would be isolated and exhaust out the back. I just can't find comparable cases. Newegg had some nice designs with shrouds and 2 bays for less than $40 but off the reviews, the quality just isn't there. I don't want to spend $150-200 on a PC case for this either but around $75-85 seems appropriate.

 

Right now I would to hear suggestions/advice in regards to the mod/upgrades.

I need to decide if I want to spend $30-50 on a broken parts PS3 that might or might not help me.

Buy a "working" one from Gamestop, try not to break it, probe it and flip it instead of a parts system.

Any suggestions on cases that work for the project and beat the 2 hr away microcenter in-store only Spec 02

Alternate PSU, ideally only with one12V rail and reliable. I only ever used Corsair and the only problems I've had is when my RM850 blew up from my 4770k being on 24/7 and when my CX430M couldn't power my other 4770k when left next to a cold window during Winter. Corsair sent me a brand new RM850 on RMA and I replaced the CX430M with a RM750 so the PC wouldn't turn off during the first half hour while the PSU warmed up to running temp.

I need to decide if it is worth to try and link the case fan speed to the CPU temperature so it's automatic like on modern computers with PWM fans. Modders usually don't attempt this since it seems the Fan only kicks up after the CPU overheats but I should be able to tweak it to max out earlier. The tricky part here is turning the voltage given off by the PS3, range of 3.3V to 0.6V where 3.3V is 100% speed and 0.6V is the minimum to keep the PS3 from easybaking itself. I would have to turn the voltage gradient into equivalent duty cycles and connect the resulting PWM control signal into something like a DEEPCOOL FH-10 by using a 555 Timer IC in Astable mode.

 

Once I get through the planning stage, I can order everything I need and get to work. I'll add pictures as I go. I don't want to take the PS3 apart until I have everything because I want to be able to use it. In the meantime, I'll open up my DS3 and try to figure out why it is inputting random actions when turned on, my DS4 doesn't let me use the PS button yet which is kind of annoying.

[Spoops]

I swear all original models have 19 blade fans, mine did because they moved production on later model fats. For the paste change it will stick very hard but you can take out the whole cooling system with the motherboard so there’s room to work on it just remember to take your time and remove these two little screws on the underside. For the hot psu, they honestly don’t effect the ps3 that much but you could easily lift it off the motherboard with some washers or get a newer cooler model psu. I delided my rsx chip and it was pretty easy as for the cell chip there’s no way I could without breaking it. I have some pics if you want them.

[Spoops]

Once you do that you probably won’t have to do anything else

[SteveGrabowski0]

Can't say I'd be a fan of putting in an SSD since does PS3 even support TRIM? If you're really attached to this PS3 I presume it's because of the PS2 hardware in it. So why not get a cheap used PS3 for playing your PS3 games and use your BC PS3 for PS2 games? No reason to kill off your CECHA stressing it with PS3 games you could play equally as well as on a $50 CECHP or $80 CECH2100. Given how piss poor PS2 emulation is on PC I don't have high hopes for PS2 on PS5 even if they do BC and it's going to be a sad day when I can't find a TV with a component in to hook my PS2 Fat up to.

[markr54632]

Honestly most of the mods listed on here range from silly to dangerous. They typically overheat because the tim used between the die and ihs has dried up. Replacing this has a very high chance of bricking your console.The fan curve relies on reported temperature, so unless something is wrong with the console or you hardwire the fan it is not going to run cooler. You may get it to stay quiet for a second longer.

 

Honestly just use it until it breaks and have it reballed by a reputable shop when it does. Have them replace the tim under the ihs with something quality and request that they dont glue the heatspreaders back down for easier maintainence in the future.

[DTX]

Here is an update on this project. Sorry, it has taken so long but I spent most of the last year busy with pandemic, furnishing house, cat, helping with a whole house remodel... Here is somethings I have learned, I'll go into full detail once I put complete the project and write how it went.

 

SSD are useless, PS3 is SATA1 (1.5Gbit/sec), so any decent HDD will be enough to saturate the connection. HDD are more robust so I'll go with a new 3.5inch 7200 RPM WD Black powder directly from the PSU for the Internal. It gets connected with an extension + sata coupler + extension. Otherwise cable won't be long enough. External I'll add a 2TB WD Black I can get later as external (I'll throw in 1TB used WD Black in the mean time since I can clone/swap at any time). I can optionally add a second 2TB HDD external if need be. PS3 supports up to 2 drives at the same time, one/both get connected to a USB2 port (each) using a 2.5inch HDD to USB adapter and an extension and powered directly from the PSU. They can all go mounted on the HDD cage, case I got supports up to 6.

 

I'm still in the process of cleaning the dust, taking my time with 99% IPA, but I'll dry clean the motherboard itself with air and brushes. I won't delid as I don't believe I can do it safely but this thing got barely used so whatever is in there should be fine, my paste looked like year old paste when I took off heatsink, was still wet.

 

Confirmed that launch PS3s have 19 blades, I don't have to worry about it for now, that's as best as it is going to get, it'll die eventually (over 60k hours). Since I'm upsing Lampron FC5 V3, I'm stuck to 3 pin fans so I got the fastest Noctua 3 pins fans I could find, 5 140mm and 2 120 mm, I'll throw Phanteks Halos on them because why not.

 

I finished the PSU today and I tested the voltages and continuity on everything all along the way, it works correctly. I need to clean the motherboard and reapply thermal pads and compounds to test it (I need to spray paint the front shield first) in order to actually power the PS3 with it. I end up having a really bad fit with the 12V plugs to I am using the original PSU with my own spin to it. I removed all the components except the plugs I need, made my own cables compatible with EPS and a Molex to provide 12V and 5V respectively, they turned out nice. All I need to do is spray the shell black and maybe attached one of those cheeky "Powdered by Corsair" badges they throw at you on nice PSUs. I end up with a CX550M 80 Plus Bronze, it is what it is. The PS3 PSU is very well insulated, I'm impressed and I reused the shielding on my version.

 

The PS3 motherboard is well, huge. No Mid ATX case will work, after months of research I ended on the Enthoo Pro Full Tempered Glass RGB version. Huge case for huge motherboard. I needed front bays, drive bays and enough space to fit a giant PS3 board, I get about 1-2 inches of clearance around the board, won't be able to take disks in and out but that has workarounds. I can pass the front USB ports to the two remaining internal USB ports with an adapter. It should move enough air to keep the giant heatsink cooler. I am also attaching the button into one of the front bay covers to turn the PSU on and off but I have yet to solder that one.

 

As for having all the tools I need, once you spent over $200 on a Dremel, a Heat Gun and a Multimeter, you stop counting...

 

Oh, here is a bonus, all the PS3 batteries have been dying recently and that messes with your ability to do anything so even though the original CR2032-LC1 on my PS3 hasn't died, I decided to replace it. The CR2032, they said will last about 10 years. It lasted at least 14 years for me. Anyways, I modded the connector to take a CR2450 with three times the capacity, this one is surface mounted too so I can just pop another one in easily.

 

Here is some pictures for those who care. Thinking of putting at least once of the MSI badges on the square part of the BD drive (top shell painted black). Once I clean and find suitable day to spray paint outside, I'll reassemble it all for a bench test. Then install it on the case. Next time it's running I'll save a system backup to extract my own bios from. Day it eventually dies, I'll add a modern PC into this case and run RPCS3 on it. Might only need to upgrade PSU. This is my "childhood system", I know I can just buy different ones and do other things but I'll do the dangerous silly mods to keep her alive.

[DTX]

Here is another update. I cleaned the motherboard, just waiting on some 2.0mm thermal pads to go along with the 1.5mm thermal pads, PS3 uses both thicknesses, I should replace them properly. I tried to spray paint with Rustoleum and it was just a mistake, top coat reacted with previous coat, it never dried up nor hardened. I never got a complete coverage and the smell was terrible. It looked like I covered the PS3 with clay doh, spent 2 full days getting paint off with Acetone, still not done, missing half the motherboard shield. I plan to re-do the paint with black nail polish plus red accents next time (2 color plus shiny top) since at this point I don't have faith in any other kind of paint. I'll do a test on junk with the Miracle Gel stuff tomorrow and see how it cures. I soldered the new power button and tested it so no more soldering. Once turned on, it should put the PS3 into standby mode and spin the fans, I should then be able to turn it on and off with the controller. I wouldn't cut PSU power unless it is on standby. It is suggested to return system to menu after playing a game to let it cool down instead of just turning it off, I can just put it on standby and simply let the PSU on for extra 5-10 minutes, the only fan that won't spin is the PS3 fan. Not going to use the msi stickers and I don't see how to put a version of my user image on the BD drive other than printing matte picture, gluing it on and covering it with the clear coat.

 

[DTX]

I made a little bit more progress on this PS3. Almost ready to apply thermal paste/pads and turn it on for testing and swapping the hard drive for the new one. I'll save a system backup while I'm at it. I'm almost ready to drill the 3-5 holes on the case to secure the PS3 to it. Paint is good enough, should be fine in the dark behind the smoked glass. I'll throw some RGB inside the PSU cage so it shines out the holes. Top quality PC case by the way, I'm very impressed with Phanteks.

 

[Colty]

The real issue with the YLOD isn't heat itself, but the stupid fan curve on these PS3's. The simple solution (the one I went with on my CECHA) is to get it on CFW, install webman mod, and set the fans to keep it under 65c/70c/75c (I went with 68c and it's quiet after just a repaste, SSD, 19 blade fan, and APS-226 the most efficient PSU Sony made for these). The original PS3's would let it get up to 78c/80c and then ramp up the fan to push it back down to 70c, it's the temperature changing that causes things to die over time, not prolonged heat (unless in excess of TJ). If you don't do something to monitor and control the fan speed, I suspect you'd end up with the same issue. Will you be installing CFW or are you just giving it the best chances while it's still on Sony firmware? 

Correct me if I'm wrong about anything though, ofc. 

[DTX]

My ps3 has custom firmware already, so I'll definitely play with the fan curve to keep the temperature steady. I don't mind the noise and the other fans will make sure there is a constant supply of cold air and the hot air leaves promptly. It comes with temperature probes so I can more or less monitor how it's cooling. The CECHA came with a 19 blade fan already. I don't recall the fan curve being a problem for mine, once the PS3 got hot, it would put fan at a single speed (not loud by my standards) and hold, but it would not go under 80-85C unless I quit the game. It didn't go crazy to lower the temps but it didn't lower them either, it just kept from overheating. I did look a bit into getting a more efficient Sony PSU but it would be used and because it was 2020 already, likely very used and about to die.

 

I'm worried an SSD since it might just kill itself writing on the same place over and over but I am using 3.5 inch drives located elsewhere so it won't really affect temperatures. The SATA or USB ports on it will get maxed out by a 7200 rpm wd black drive so I rather go for capacity and ruggedness rather than speed. I do rip my bluray game disks to the HDD to avoid using the BD drive as much as possible as it is very annoying to change once it dies. I also assume less power and moving pieces so less heat.

 

My strategy is to reduce the wear and tear on the original hardware as much as possible to prolong its life. Then make or replace anything that is a problem or breaks with brand new alternative parts rather than buying used 15 years old hardware and hope it works and is better than what I already had. If it is going to be a lottery or cost a bunch of money anyways, I'd rather go for the fix that will last me longer. Plus there is many quality of life changes I'm implementing. I should be able to power it on tomorrow and make sure everything works the way it should.

[Colty]

The fan curve on the 19's is definitely better. My dad got one of the very early CECHA's (15 blade, worst PSU offered), I remember it would be quiet, scream for a minute or two, then quiet again. I broke that one at some point (put it in a very small space and gave it the YLOD, it was never repasted or cleaned out). The one I have now had the 19 blade fan and 226 PSU from the factory, so it's one of the very late ones.

I put a 1TB SSD in mine, load times are noticeably better, I have installed a large number of PS3 games, a handful of PS2/PS1 games and I still have over 500GB free. I'm not too worried about it and if it does have issues later, it's honestly cheaper to replace the SSD than the PS3, especially since these now seem to be on the rise in price for working examples. That being said, a small hybrid drive (self trim?) with an external drive is also a great idea, possibly even a better idea. 

[DTX]

I didn't get my CECHA until like February 2006 because they were sold out. I got the APS-226 PSU with 19 blade fan, Japan made unit. I still need to install the ATX PSU in the case and plug in a few cables, PS3 is actually too heavy for me to screw into the case by myself so I will need to get some help. Other than that, it is pretty much assembled. I'll try to hook it up tomorrow or Friday.

[DTX]

So... it blew up...

 

Joking XD. Of course it worked perfectly. It idled at 61C CPU 51C RSX and after 8-10 minutes on a racing game, it went to 71C CPU, 53C RSX. Of course it wasn't tested inside the case so temps are not final but I needed to change the disk inside the BD drive which I can't do after I put it into the case. I still need to test the fans and RGB but I don't expect issues, just a lot of cables to plug in and manage. I still need to backup and swap the HDD but that will be once it is on the case since it might take hours. It might require 2 people to move the PS3 safely to its place once fully assembled. Overall, it passed with flying colors the bench test.

 

[DTX]

I placed the HDDs into the case, once I install into the new drive, I can remove the old 2.5 inch drive and leave only the 2 bottom drives, a new internal and a lightly used external. They are both 3.5 inch WD Black 7200 rpm 1TB 64mb cache drives powered directly by the Corsair PSU. Both WD1003FZEX drives should perform at around 150 MB/s average which is enough to saturate both USB2.0 (60 MB/s) and SATA1.5 (150 MB/s effectively). In reference, the PS3 BD Drive is only 9 MB/s so anything off the HDDs will be considerably faster and not put extra wear on the BD Drive. I closed off the PSU shroud and the case should be ready to get the PS3 in it tomorrow. I can do a slightly better cable management in the back but that's not an issue. The USB ports will be one for the external drive and one for Magic-S Pro stick (for Dualshock 4 support). I can pass the remaining 2 USB ports via an adapter to the front panel USB 2.0 ports for both charging and plugging in USB drives or controllers. PS3 can support up to 2 external 2TB max size partitions at once but it can only read the first partition of each drive so you cannot put 2 2TB partitions in a 4TB drive. Going above 1.5TB requires special tricks that might or might not lead to data loss and there are no reliable/mainstream 1.5TB drives so I will be sticking with 1TB drives. The PS3 once assembled only has 5 cables coming out of it not counting the USB ports (which need 3 cables) and the HDMI port in the back. There is a CPU EPS female cable that takes the CPU EPS cable from the Corsair PSU and provides all 12V power to the PS3. There is a female molex connector with the 12V line removed that plugs into a molex cable from the Corsair PSU and provides all 5V power to the PS3. The same molex PSU cable provides 12V only power to the RGB controller in the case using a high quality molex to SATA power adapter. There is a SATA data female cable extended with a male to male SATA adapter and extra SATA cable that leads to the internal HDD. The last 2 cables coming off the PS3 are RGB cables for the back fan RGB and the PS3 PSU RGB. Both HDD are powered by a dedicated SATA power cable and the last molex power cable is exclusive for the Lamptron FC5 V3 fan controller and all the fans. I can't hear the 6 fans at all at 6.7V, might not need to go up to 12V. In case anyone is curious, the Monitor is a Samsung 27 inch curved 1080p screen on top of an Audio AST420Y stand, they are pretty neat.

 

[DTX]

The PS3 mod is now complete. Everything works correctly, I lost access to one of the 4 USB ports which I can get back with a right angle USB extension but it is not a big deal, both front panel USB ports work as expected. I can try weighing the whole thing when moving it to its final place. Configuring, updating, and reorganizing the storage is secondary at this time. I wouldn't do a guide as this thing is one of a kind but I can always show what I did it and how it works. I got lots of pictures and can answer a lot of questions. I'll probably start a fresh thread on the Build Logs for this PS3 and document it properly. The original PS3 was my birthday present for 2006. This mod/upgrade was supposed to be my 2020 birthday present and it took 2 birthdays worth of money and almost two years. This is my final update on this thread which was more or less for planning/troubleshooting and for those who followed.