Jump to content

Case's power button is broken. Need some advice.

Man

So I've this very old Antec casing (NSK-4482b) and its power button is broken. Sometimes, the button gets stuck inside. It's working fine so far, but it's almost completely worn out. I'm thinking about ordering this replacement cable bundle, but I'm not sure if it's compatible with my case:

 

Screenshot.thumb.jpg.1ecbb6122f1055225f44808be6013e45.jpg

 

Here's the casing, for reference:

 

images.jpg.e405fbc89afe8bebea3d102c5d60c4f9.jpg

Do forgive my ignorance but does all ATX compatible cases have the same power/reset switches or do they differ from manufacturer to manufacture? I downloaded this case's manual and all it says is that this product is 100% ATX compatible. 

 

Google brought up nothing, unfortunately. 

 

Thanks in advance. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

it depends on your motherboard. as long as it is not a dell/acer/hp special, they should all conform to the atx standard and use the same sort of pins on the board. other way is that you can just short the power sw pins on your mobo with a screwdriver (free option)

Main Rig: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 9 3950X Processor (Stock, -0.1V offset)  /// Motherboard: Asus Pro WS X570-Ace /// CPU Cooler: Deepcool GamerStorm Castle 360 RGB V2 /// GPU: Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® RTX 2080 SUPER™ 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V 128GB (4x32GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850i /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe (boot) + 1TB WD Black SN750 NVMe (Working Drive) + 2x 1TB Samsung 850 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD RAID0 (Game Library) + 2TB Seagate BarraCuda (Backup) /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (Main Rig): Mouse: Logitech MX Master 3 + Logitech G903 Lightspeed /// Keyboard: Keychron Q1 ANSI - JWK Lavender Linear Switches (TX Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Durock V2 Stabilisers, Polycarbonate Plate, Tape Mod, GMK Blue Samurai + Keychron K4 V2 Hotswap RGB Aluminum Frame - Gateron Milky Black (Deskeys Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Foam Mod, Tape Mod, GMK Rainy Day PBT Clones /// Tablet: Wacom Intuos M BT /// Monitor: 4x LG 27UL500-W (4K IPS Freesync) /// DAC: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 /// Speakers: Logitech Z625 /// Mic: Focusrite CM25 MkII /// Headphones: Audio-Technica ATH-M50x, ATH-LS70iS IEMs /// Racing Wheel: Logitech G920 Driving Force with Shifter /// Eye Tracker: Steelseries Sentry  /// External Drives: 500GB Samsung T5 SSD (Working Drive)

 

Home Server - NASty: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 7 2700x Processor /// Motherboard: Asus PRIME X470-Pro  /// CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 /// GPU: Gigabyte GeForce® GT 1030 OC 2G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 64GB (4x16GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R5 Window /// PSU: Corsair RM750x /// Storage: LSI SAS 9211-8i (IT Mode) + 10x 4TB Seagate Exos Enterprise Drive /// OS: UNRaid

 

Tester Rig: CPU: AMD Athlon™ 200GE Processor /// Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VI Hero WIFI  /// CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism RGB /// GPU: Palit GeForce® GTX 1050 2GB StromX /// RAM: Klevv Bolt 8GB (1x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15 /// Chassis: The AMAZING $30 "Computer Case"! /// PSU: Seasonic Focus GX-750 /// Storage: 1TB Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD + 240GB Transcend SSD220S 2.5" SATA SSD /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Laptop (Asus UX430UN): CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-8550U Processor  /// GPU: NVIDIA GeForce MX150 /// RAM: 16GB 2133Mhz /// Storage: 512GB SanDisk SD8SN8U512G1002 (boot) /// OS: Windows 10 Home

 

Other Tech: Console: Xbox One S 1TB, Apple TV 4K /// Printer: Canon imageCLASS MF635Cx /// Phone: Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 256GB Graphite (Daily Driver)  /// Tablet: Apple iPad 9.7-inch Wi-Fi (2018) 32GB + Apple Pencil (1st Generation) /// Headphones: Apple Airpods Pro, Sony WF-1000XM3, Sony WH-1000XM3 /// Smartwatch: Apple Watch Series 6 GPS Space Grey

 

Cameras: Bodies: Canon EOS-1D X Mark II, Canon EOS 5D Mark IV,  Sony A6000 /// Lenses: Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8L USM, Canon EF 16-35mm F/2.8L II USM, Canon EF 70-200mm F/2.8L IS II USM, Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD G2 (Canon), Sony SEL-P1650 E 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 PZ OSS /// Lighting: 2x Godox SL60-W Continuous LED, 2x Canon Speedlite 580EXII /// Tripods: Leofoto LS-324C Carbon Fiber Tripod + Leofoto LH-40 Ballhead, Leofoto MC-80 Multipurpose Clamp, Triopo DG-3 Gimbal Head /// Yes, I am a Canon Fanboy, deal with it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think you can jump start your pc using a screwdriver or paper clip if that's your concern...just connect the two pins on the mobo to either start or stop the pc. 

 

What would be cool is to install a "keyed ignition" so you literally stick a key into your case and turn it to start the computer :P  Also a choke nob like on the older cars/trucks of yesteryear....imagine the look on people's faces as you applied choke to start your pc!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, Man said:

Do forgive my ignorance but does all ATX compatible cases have the same power/reset switches or do they differ from manufacturer to manufacture? I downloaded this case's manual and all it says is that this product is 100% ATX compatible. 

Being ATX form factor has nothing to do with the type of switch being used, open the front panel and look at the power switch and get the same one, although you can always connect the switch and have it hanging somewhere or put a hole in the front and hot glue your switch there, doesn't really matter it's just a switch.

Quote or Tag people so they know that you've replied.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, berberries said:

it depends on your motherboard. as long as it is not a dell/acer/hp special, they should all conform to the atx standard and use the same sort of pins on the board. other way is that you can just short the power sw pins on your mobo with a screwdriver (free option)

It's a fully custom machine with a Gigabyte H61M mini-ATX motherboard. Can't say I like the idea of jump starting the PC with a screwdriver! It's rather unnerving because I might accidentally short out something!

 

I'd rather put a jumper in there and call it a day!

 

9 minutes ago, Stu_Bear said:

What would be cool is to install a "keyed ignition" so you literally stick a key into your case and turn it to start the computer :P  Also a choke nob like on the older cars/trucks of

yesteryear....imagine the look on people's faces as you applied choke to start your pc!

LOL!

 

Oh yes, turn the key like a pro to bring the glorious, monstrous Pentium G860 to life! 

 

Talk about overkill!

 

Although I like the way you think. Very imaginative!

 

6 minutes ago, _Syn_ said:

Being ATX form factor has nothing to do with the type of switch being used, open the front panel and look at the power switch and get the same one, although you can always connect the switch and have it hanging somewhere or put a hole in the front and hot glue your switch there, doesn't really matter it's just a switch.

 

The reason I asked is because I used to have an Intel Celeron 300 back in the days (I'm quite old!) and if I recall correctly, its ATX chassis had similar switches and LEDs. Same goes to my next PC, a custom Pentium III 733MHz machine. Went all proprietary after that and kind of lost touch with custom machines, until recently. 

 

Don't want to tinker with my PC at 12:30AM! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×