Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

Man

Member
  • Content Count

    247
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

This user doesn't have any awards

About Man

  • Title
    Member
  • Birthday Sep 13, 1990

Contact Methods

  • Reddit
    u/Devgel
  • Twitter
    @MrDevgel

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

System

  • CPU
    Core 2 Duo E8400
  • Motherboard
    Intel Q35 Express
  • RAM
    2 x 2GB DDR2 800MHz
  • GPU
    Nvidia GT440 (1GB)
  • Case
    Dell Optiplex 755
  • Display(s)
    Asus VH222
  • Keyboard
    Dell SK-8135
  • Operating System
    Windows 8.1 Pro

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I've an Antec Earthwatt EA-380D with an i5-2400 + H61 and an RX470 in my system. The PC is running absolutely fine with no hiccups whatsoever but I noticed on HW Monitor that its 12V rail often dips all the way to 11.35V under heavy loads, especially those which strain both the CPU and GPU. I stuck my multi-meters' probes in a spare molex and true enough; both 12V rails are dipping well below 11.40V, which is supposedly the maximum tolerance of PC hardware + the voltage is fluctuating a lot. PSU idles at exactly 11.50V and jumps ALL the way to down to mid 11.30s in worst cases and
  2. Thinking about buying a low-end MSI Optix monitor (G241VC / 48-75Hz) and have a few questions: 1. Does FreeSync works with HD7790 a.k.a R7-260X (Bonaire GCN 2.0)? 2. How does FreeSync responds to locked frame rates, in terms of input lag? 3. Do all FreeSync monitors support Gsync? As a former console gamer, I absolutely HATE tearing and unlocked frame rate. I currently have a 60Hz monitor and I lock games at either 30 or 60FPS with RTSS and vsync, depending on how good my PC can run it. The reason I want a VRR monitor is because I'd absolutely lov
  3. I honestly don't understand people's obsession with the 8 gig 570! 8GB vRAM on this particular card is about as useful as 4GB DDR3 vRAM on a GT730 a.k.a GT430. 570 was never meant for 2/4K and at 1080p, which should be considered its home turf, even the most memory extensive games take-up just around 6GB on ultra texture quality, including C2077.
  4. Found a good deal on a GTX970 and was wondering if I can play around with its voltages via MSI Afterbuner's voltage/frequency table? Also, would you recommend getting the 1060 3GB over the 970 4GB? P.S I'm using a Dell Precision T3500 (X58) workstation with very poor ventilation so thermals are very important to me.
  5. I'd personally prefer 2x static pressure fan at the front and 3x air flow fans at the top and rear. This way your airflow would (should) be fairly balanced.
  6. LOL! I bought that GPU for like 15 bucks or something years ago! Just want to glue a fan and dump it on some poor fellow for $25-30, thanks to 'Corona inflation'! Already have an HD7790 in my other machine. That's a great idea! It's a shame I've already glued the fan with the epoxy. In any case, I'll keep it in mind for future reference.
  7. That's not an option, unfortunately, given the design of the PCB!
  8. I'd probably go with epoxy but do you think it's the same 'stuff'?
  9. @HanZie82 That looks like it'd do the trick! Unfortunately, it's not available around here. @RTX 3090You're right. I can always use a heat gun to remove the epoxy plus it's much higher viscosity than superglue. I was considering this epoxy, do you think it will do the job?
  10. So... should I go with epoxy instead? This is so confusing! Actually the case fan is pretty old as well. Don't think it has much life left in it! That's why I'd prefer something I could easily remove later.
  11. You're probably right. Guess I was looking at 'regular' super glues! Just Googled a bit more and it appears there's a stronger super glue adhesive called "Cyanoacrylate" which can have a temperature resistance of up to 250°C (482°F). That's on par with industrial grade epoxy which I was considering + I can probably remove the super glue with vinegar whereas epoxy is pretty much... permeant! Thinking about going that route but if someone has a better idea do let me know.
  12. So I've this old GT730 from Inno3D whose fan is on the brink of death. It wobbles and makes a terrible grinding noise. Unfortunately, it's next to impossible to zip tie a case fan and replacement fans are pretty much non-existent. Just out of curiosity, I opened it up just to see what's inside and it looks like a single ball bearing design. I tried to lube it with some motor oil but it did absolutely nothing which means the bearing is worn out. In any case, I've an old case fan which is the exact same size (~50mm) and after cutting its frame with a hot knife; it fits perfectly ins
  13. That's what I've been doing since morning and from what I've seen so far, high CFM fans have fewer yet wider fins; usually ≤7, while SP optimized fans have 8+. In any case, I'm considering this one:
  14. That's not an option as I'm from Asia! AliExpress is my only hope and sellers there generally don't mention the CFM or PSI rating of their products.
  15. Looking for a high pressure 80mm intake fan for my vintage Antec chassis (NSK4480) which currently has a 120mm exhaust fan optimized for airflow. The chassis has very narrow vents for air intake so I doubt a standard fan would work properly.
×