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My pc is to hot for it's own good

Daemon Byte

I have a threadripper 1920x overclocked to 4.1ghz and cooled with a Enermax LiqTech TR4 360 in a push configuration. It sits around 40 degrees when idle and if I'm doing some work on it (running multiple vms etc) or some basic gaming it often sits between 60 and 80 and the fans really ramp up then getting loud. But I figured this was just the price for the overclock. However yesterday I tried to use freac to extract some music off a cd and my computer flew up to 90 degrees within a minute and had crashed by song 4. I've been using prime95 to test things out and I found these things out:

Overclocked prime 95 will crash the computer within a couple of minutes, consistently. 
Stock speed prime 95 will have me in the 90 degrees in under 5 minutes.

Stock or overclocked I will idle around 40-45 degrees.
If I stop prime 95 before the computer crashes the temp will quickly fall down.

I have attached a shot of coretemp while the computer is idle and my fan curve. I have tried with the case side off and it altered nothing. I have removed, cleaned and reapplied the thermal paste (arctic silver) but it altered nothing. The radiator doesn't feel hot to the touch and the block does feel like it's pumping but I'm not sure how to test if it's actually pumping. I saw gamers nexus did a video on how my particular aio was getting gunked but but I have only had it since Feb so I doubt it's that, but is there anyway to check short of taking it apart? I'm basically at a loss as to what to try next so I can track down the issue because while I can clearly still use the machine day to day if a simple cd rip and kill it there's something wrong so if anyone has any advise on a next step I'm open
 

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this may shed some light

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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23 hours ago, Fasauceome said:

this may shed some light

yeh I mentioned that I saw that but the cooler is only a few months old and I don't think it's likely to be that. It's an awful lot of effort to open up just to check as well. 

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1 minute ago, Daemon Byte said:

yeh I mentioned that I saw that but the cooler is only a few months old and I don't think it's likely to be that. It's an awful lot of effort to open up just to check as well. 

It's a lot of work but in terms of causes for the problem it's one of the only things I can think of. Did you listen for the pump to see if it's still working in that regard?

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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I remember when Steve made that video about the issues, you may want to contact Enermax's customer support and see what they think off it, otherwise check your thermal paste application as well as the mounting of the cooler, I know thread ripper can be a bit picky on how evenly the cooler is mounted and how much mounting pressure there is

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I had the Enermax Liqtech II 360 cooler on my 1920x.

 

When I first put the system together (last Nov.) I was running a 4.2GHz OC and it would idle around 35C (~15C delta) and under a synethetic load like R15 or R20 would stay under 80C (60C delta). All with a pretty modest fan curve. I was very impressed.

 

By the time summer rolled around I had gone back to stock settings. Even then I was idling around 60C (35C delta) and I couldn't actually do two benchmarks in a row without it thermal throttling below base clocks. I noticed the radiator was cold under load (coolant wasn't circulating) when normally it would warm up. Both intake and outtake houses were warm (fluid wasn't going through the radiator to cool). I didn't notice any issues with the pump. No strange sounds or anything like that.

 

The transition was gradual but I saw issues like yours. My 4.2GHz OC became too much to keep in check. I blamed the warming ambient temps with spring/summer. So my OC became 4.1, then 4.0, then the Asus's "PBO" for gen 1 TR, then stock settings by July.

 

I had checked with Enermax before installing this unit about the issues mentioned in Steve's videos for the 1st gen coolers. I made sure the 2nd gen cooler I had was manufactured after the issues were resolved. I was assured they were. Obviously that wasn't the case.

 

Given my model was the "fixed" version I opted not to trust an RMA unit. My advice would be to find a different cooler as your budget allows and for now dial back the OC.

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Thanks all for the advise. I feared taking out the AIO and and dismantling was the only option I had left. I guess I shall have to bite the bullet.

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On 11/16/2019 at 12:47 AM, BlueJedi said:

I had the Enermax Liqtech II 360 cooler on my 1920x.

 

When I first put the system together (last Nov.) I was running a 4.2GHz OC and it would idle around 35C (~15C delta) and under a synethetic load like R15 or R20 would stay under 80C (60C delta). All with a pretty modest fan curve. I was very impressed.

 

By the time summer rolled around I had gone back to stock settings. Even then I was idling around 60C (35C delta) and I couldn't actually do two benchmarks in a row without it thermal throttling below base clocks. I noticed the radiator was cold under load (coolant wasn't circulating) when normally it would warm up. Both intake and outtake houses were warm (fluid wasn't going through the radiator to cool). I didn't notice any issues with the pump. No strange sounds or anything like that.

 

The transition was gradual but I saw issues like yours. My 4.2GHz OC became too much to keep in check. I blamed the warming ambient temps with spring/summer. So my OC became 4.1, then 4.0, then the Asus's "PBO" for gen 1 TR, then stock settings by July.

 

I had checked with Enermax before installing this unit about the issues mentioned in Steve's videos for the 1st gen coolers. I made sure the 2nd gen cooler I had was manufactured after the issues were resolved. I was assured they were. Obviously that wasn't the case.

 

Given my model was the "fixed" version I opted not to trust an RMA unit. My advice would be to find a different cooler as your budget allows and for now dial back the OC.

What cooler did you end you picking? I was toying with the idea of swapping it for a air cooler but I'm worried it's not going to handle OC then

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9 hours ago, Daemon Byte said:

What cooler did you end you picking? I was toying with the idea of swapping it for a air cooler but I'm worried it's not going to handle OC then

I had the same worries. I ended up going with an air cooler, the Noctua NH-U14S along with a 2nd NF-A15 fan. Make sure to check the sizing info for their coolers on the Noctua website. Air coolers with full IHS coverage and fans in push pull all seem to perform the best and roughly the same, if you're looking at other options.

 

With the U14S I'm running my original 4.2GHz OC without issues. I idle around around 37C (17C delta) and under a heavy load like R15/R20 or Blender I get up to about 75-80C (60C delta).  I gained a couple degrees at idle to medium workloads but that's because of my fan curve. I have it set up to be quieter for lighter tasks which the water cooler could do better (more fans). Maximum cooling potential, with fans at max, is the same if not a bit better than the Enermax was out of the box. Gaming is always around 50-60C (30-40C delta).

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On 11/19/2019 at 12:25 AM, BlueJedi said:

I had the same worries. I ended up going with an air cooler, the Noctua NH-U14S along with a 2nd NF-A15 fan. Make sure to check the sizing info for their coolers on the Noctua website. Air coolers with full IHS coverage and fans in push pull all seem to perform the best and roughly the same, if you're looking at other options.

 

With the U14S I'm running my original 4.2GHz OC without issues. I idle around around 37C (17C delta) and under a heavy load like R15/R20 or Blender I get up to about 75-80C (60C delta).  I gained a couple degrees at idle to medium workloads but that's because of my fan curve. I have it set up to be quieter for lighter tasks which the water cooler could do better (more fans). Maximum cooling potential, with fans at max, is the same if not a bit better than the Enermax was out of the box. Gaming is always around 50-60C (30-40C delta).

Well I just finished fitting the be quiet dark rock tr4 and that did the trick. I now idle in the 30s instead of 50s and I can run prime95 stable in the high 70s which I'm happy about because I have my oc still and it's actually missing the pull fan which I have to replace. (It came with a broken wire). 

Thanks all for the advise. Guess I now have to hit up enermax.

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59 minutes ago, Daemon Byte said:

Well I just finished fitting the be quiet dark rock tr4 and that did the trick. I now idle in the 30s instead of 50s and I can run prime95 stable in the high 70s which I'm happy about because I have my oc still and it's actually missing the pull fan which I have to replace. (It came with a broken wire). 

Thanks all for the advise. Guess I now have to hit up enermax.

Good to hear you're up and running! Cheers.

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