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1st world struggle - cpu on open loop + hybrid graphics card?

Long story short I'm debating putting together a new gaming-only rig as soon as I convince myself to hit the Checkout button but have run into a final sticking point.

 

Initially wanted to do a single loop with just one big radiator for cpu + graphics card (9900ks + some sort of 2080 Ti that will OC higher than the pair of Titans in my main rig) and I still have some thick 480mm rads from a previous build in the Thermaltake Core X9 so I searched high and low for a case with 480mm radiator support. The Phanteks Enthoo Luxe 2 (renamed 719 I think) supports them on the front and side I believe.

 

However, that case is a little less sturdy than I'd prefer given that I'm going all-out on this thing. Anyway, so I kept looking and accepted that a dual radiator config would be acceptable if it could be bottom + front for dual intake (both breathing cold air) and decided that the Cooler Master Cosmos 700M would be fine with the front plastic thing removed.

 

Next (and the problem I'm asking about) was the graphics card. I already have two Titan RTX in the main rig which I power modded for ~ 434 watt max power limit and they're great, whatever. Anyway, I had one in last years 9900k rig as well, but even with that modded power limit they are still power limited when I go for max OC benchmarking during sub-freezing winter runs (just for fun I like to see how far I can push things with a fully-assembled, daily-usable PC so no LN2 - just overbuilt custom water cooling + below-freezing ambient air).

 

Because of this (and because I see 2080 Ti's in some top spots for 3dmark 'hall of fame' lists) I wanted to use one of the custom PCB 2080 Ti's with a triple 8-pin PCIE power input setup and found that with the EVGA 2080 Ti Kingpin version you can actually disable NV OCP entirely. But... it seems EVGA stopped selling the waterblock for that card a few months ago so if I use it, I'd be 'limited' to running it with its included 240mm AIO instead of being able to include it into a loop with the CPU.

 

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So the TLDR; question I have for you guys is 'how stupid would it be to use the graphics card with its attached 240mm AIO but have the 9900ks (delidded + direct die cooled) on its own open loop with a 420mm radiator?

HEDT: i9 10980XE @ 4.9 gHz, 64GB @ 3600mHz CL14 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, 2x Nvidia Titan RTX NVLink SLI, Corsair AX1600i, Samsung 960 Pro 2TB OS/apps, Samsung 850 EVO 4TB media, LG 38GL950G-B monitor, Drop CTRL keyboard, Decus Respec mouse

Laptop: Razer Blade Pro 2019 9750H model, 32GB @ 3200mHz CL18 G.Skill Ripjaws DDR4, 2x Samsung 960 Pro 1TB RAID0, repasted with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Gaming Rig: i9 9900ks @ 5.2ghz, 32GB @ 4000mHz CL17 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, EVGA RTX 2080 Ti Kingpin, Corsair HX1200, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2TB, Asus PG348Q monitor, Corsair K70 LUX RGB keyboard, Corsair Ironclaw mouse
HTPC: i7 7700 (delidded + LM), 16GB @ 2666mHz CL15 Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4, MSI Geforce GTX 1070 Gaming X, Corsair SFX 600, Samsung 850 Pro 512gb, Samsung Q55R TV, Filco Majestouch Convertible 2 TKL keyboard, Logitech G403 wireless mouse

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Just a thought, if you are confident with your DIY you could potentially mod the Kingpin and gut the pump so its just a GPU block passthrough and splice the hoses (new or just adapter the current lines its using) to your loop and use the already included cooling on the VRMs etc so it would keep the Kingpin look but be in the loop series.  

 

Im watching a teardown video now

 

EDIT - Gen 6 asetek pump, they have teardown videos of it (per the video Im watching now) 

 

add to loop.PNG

add.PNG

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

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Apart from the fact that it lacks elegance and has more single points of failure, it isn't intrinsically "stupid" since it will work.

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39 minutes ago, For Science! said:

Apart from the fact that it lacks elegance and has more single points of failure, it isn't intrinsically "stupid" since it will work.

Good point, thank you!

 

42 minutes ago, Tristerin said:

Just a thought, if you are confident with your DIY you could potentially mod the Kingpin and gut the pump so its just a GPU block passthrough and splice the hoses (new or just adapter the current lines its using) to your loop and use the already included cooling on the VRMs etc so it would keep the Kingpin look but be in the loop series.  

 

Im watching a teardown video now

 

EDIT - Gen 6 asetek pump, they have teardown videos of it (per the video Im watching now) 

 

 

 

That's definitely a possibility - hadn't even though of that so thank you as well. On a similar line of thought might there be some kind of GPU waterblock that could be used in place of the Asetek pump as well? I remember back in the early days of PC water cooling there were some kind of generic vga water blocks but I've never used one and haven't specifically looked for something like that in the last 2-3 years that I finally got into the hobby.

HEDT: i9 10980XE @ 4.9 gHz, 64GB @ 3600mHz CL14 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, 2x Nvidia Titan RTX NVLink SLI, Corsair AX1600i, Samsung 960 Pro 2TB OS/apps, Samsung 850 EVO 4TB media, LG 38GL950G-B monitor, Drop CTRL keyboard, Decus Respec mouse

Laptop: Razer Blade Pro 2019 9750H model, 32GB @ 3200mHz CL18 G.Skill Ripjaws DDR4, 2x Samsung 960 Pro 1TB RAID0, repasted with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Gaming Rig: i9 9900ks @ 5.2ghz, 32GB @ 4000mHz CL17 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, EVGA RTX 2080 Ti Kingpin, Corsair HX1200, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2TB, Asus PG348Q monitor, Corsair K70 LUX RGB keyboard, Corsair Ironclaw mouse
HTPC: i7 7700 (delidded + LM), 16GB @ 2666mHz CL15 Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4, MSI Geforce GTX 1070 Gaming X, Corsair SFX 600, Samsung 850 Pro 512gb, Samsung Q55R TV, Filco Majestouch Convertible 2 TKL keyboard, Logitech G403 wireless mouse

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11 minutes ago, Kalm_Traveler1 said:

Good point, thank you!

 

That's definitely a possibility - hadn't even though of that so thank you as well. On a similar line of thought might there be some kind of GPU waterblock that could be used in place of the Asetek pump as well? I remember back in the early days of PC water cooling there were some kind of generic vga water blocks but I've never used one and haven't specifically looked for something like that in the last 2-3 years that I finally got into the hobby.

There are, but imho being that its such a good looking GPU with a readout etc - that converting the pump into a block itself would be the easiest, most aesthetically pleasing (my opinion) solution for such a nice card.  Ive researched it enough Im about to do a similar/not similar loop using the Corsair H100i GTX pump/block combo using the pump as is in tandem with a res and 3 radiators but for the fan control and iCUE software to control and monitor the entire loop.  I was originally going to use my own pump and res and just gut the block but its a nice pump in and of itself so I decided against that (for space saving and aesthetics as well)

 

Good luck and enjoy!  My direct thoughts are just remove the impeller from the pump and cut the current lines and use a barb to barb fitting to use the current hoses and just splice them at the GPU housing so it be a plug and play solution for a closed loop (also disconnecting and tucking the pump power connector away).  Could even get fancy and use angled barb fittings too

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

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3 hours ago, Tristerin said:

Good luck and enjoy!  My direct thoughts are just remove the impeller from the pump and cut the current lines and use a barb to barb fitting to use the current hoses and just splice them at the GPU housing so it be a plug and play solution for a closed loop (also disconnecting and tucking the pump power connector away).  Could even get fancy and use angled barb fittings too

Thanks again - I will probably just try this and see how well it works. I agree with you that it would look the best since it wouldn't really alter the card's aesthetics. 

If we're being honest I'd still prefer to install the official water block that they made for a short time, but can't seem to find them anywhere even used and since my power modded Titans are still ultimately being limited by power and voltage, the only conceivable option for this new build is the Kingpin card since it has a much higher max power limit (and can even be entirely bypassed with the Classified tool).

HEDT: i9 10980XE @ 4.9 gHz, 64GB @ 3600mHz CL14 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, 2x Nvidia Titan RTX NVLink SLI, Corsair AX1600i, Samsung 960 Pro 2TB OS/apps, Samsung 850 EVO 4TB media, LG 38GL950G-B monitor, Drop CTRL keyboard, Decus Respec mouse

Laptop: Razer Blade Pro 2019 9750H model, 32GB @ 3200mHz CL18 G.Skill Ripjaws DDR4, 2x Samsung 960 Pro 1TB RAID0, repasted with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Gaming Rig: i9 9900ks @ 5.2ghz, 32GB @ 4000mHz CL17 G.Skill Trident-Z DDR4, EVGA RTX 2080 Ti Kingpin, Corsair HX1200, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2TB, Asus PG348Q monitor, Corsair K70 LUX RGB keyboard, Corsair Ironclaw mouse
HTPC: i7 7700 (delidded + LM), 16GB @ 2666mHz CL15 Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4, MSI Geforce GTX 1070 Gaming X, Corsair SFX 600, Samsung 850 Pro 512gb, Samsung Q55R TV, Filco Majestouch Convertible 2 TKL keyboard, Logitech G403 wireless mouse

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