Kalm_Traveler

You said 'good if you play benchmarks'. Not sure what you meant by that - the performance delta is enough to be obvious in real-world use.

Better in that it boosts higher which seems to result in generally higher gaming framerates. It's not just reference vs custom - the Titan has more of everything, so it's interesting that a 2080 Ti is able to clock a little higher and that the higher clocks trump the lack of everything else.

I'm not any sort of reviewer - bought mine from a computer shop in California in February. My guess is that they're having poor yields with the full fat die having all cores reach the advertised speeds at advertised voltages. Mine is doing just fine though, 4.9 all core and it I have it on the edge of not overheating during any workload I throw at it. On the flip side - as others have mentioned it is not really much different from a 9980XE which you should be able to find. The main reason I bought this is that I already had an x299 rig and didn't want or need a new platf

Hey guys, this has been happening to me for several hardware generations but I finally decided to ask if anyone else has seen this and knows how to fix it. On both of my old x99 boards (x99 TUF and Rampage V Edition 10) as well as both X299 boards (Rampage VI Extreme and VI Extreme Omega), randomly on bootup the G.Skill RGB RAM will just continue rainbow puking unless I power off, then power on again. Also, along with that RAM unsyncing, occasionally on bootup everything will lose my settings and default to red. Once in Windows, Aura confirms that everything is back to

That doesn't mean that temperature reductions can't be had by delidding and replacing the solder with liquid metal or just going direct die cooling. "worth it" is subjective - if a person values a 4c temp reduction, it would be 'worth it' to them. I've delidded a 9900k and 9900ks for direct die which gives quite a good temp drop and would like to delid my 10980xe if not for fear of shearing off all the SMDs near the IHS contact points but the work of having to resolder them has made delidding that soldered CPU "not worth it" to me so far. Might change my mind in the future.

yeah this was the first time I'd come across it. I tried 3 mice all less than 2 years old and they all did the same thing - they'd flicker on and off. They all 3 work fine through the old Asus monitor, and all 3 don't work through this brand new LG. I asked around a few places and someone mentioned that some USB hubs (in general, not just built-in monitors) don't handle "polling" devices well - which I guess a mouse is.

should work in any USB-C or Thunderbolt 3 port. We use those types of multi-port adapters on Macs at work (Thunderbolt 3 Macs) all the time. It isn't a Thunderbolt dongle, just normal USB-C so it should work in any USB-C port (laptop, desktop, phone etc).

you may want to test things - the USB hub built into my older Asus PG348Q monitor works fine for keyboard and mouse but the one build into this new LG monitor doesn't seem to work correctly with mice. Keyboard worked fine in either port but the mouse would never connect so I ended up just saying screw it and plugged them both directly into motherboard USB ports.

I think you're confused because those types of PCI-E riser cards (mainly used for mining) use the physical USB 3.x connectors and cable to connect their two pieces. Nothing on those is electrically USB at all - they are only using the physical connectors and cable to send a 1x PCI-E signal between the small piece that goes on the motherboard and the larger piece that a graphics card connects to. ------------------ As far as an external graphics card over USB 3.1, it is physically possible but the results would be much worse than Thunderbolt 2 and Thunderbolt 3 ext

let us know if you find anything out about this. I have both versions of the Xbox One Elite controller and initially was sad that the original requires an Xbox One wireless adapter on PC (never saw anything about getting a normal bluetooth dongle to work with it). Granted I don't use bluetooth on the new version now since I just got used to using the original cabled but still curious.

ahh good idea and thank you - that should work for sure howdy - yes indeed they do sorta track sleep via movement. I have been wearing a Samsung Galaxy Fit 2 smart watch since they launched last I think October which also tracks it via heart rate, and for just over two weeks with an oximeter (the things they put on your finger to test how much oxygen is in your blood) which tracks oxygen, heart rate and movement. I'm definitely moving a lot, and get random weird heart rate spikes from 40-50 suddenly up to 100-120 but I want a camera to see what the heck I'm doi

Kind of weird question I know - but I'm looking for a camera that I can set up to watch/listen to my sleeping because I have been diagnosed with severe insomnia and sleep apnea but my health insurance says they won't pay for a sleep study because in their words "your records show that you do not have insomnia or daytime sleepiness, so this is not medically necessary". Anybody know of a good cheap camera with decent-enough IR night vision etc that I could have streaming to my PC in another room (and software to do the recording) ? I guess a baby monitor camera would work

thank you So a 2070s will be able to play current games at 4k resolution with max graphics settings and maintain 60+ fps? I don't think the 3700x stock cooler would fit in the Node 202 case, so I'll be keeping the Scythe Big Shuriken 2 unless it also is too tall on top of AM4. You may be on to something about just upgrading the graphics card for now though. I know there are some games already that want 8 physical cores (RDR2) so that's why I was thinking the 3700x might be a good choice - double the cores and threads plus higher boost clocks and better IP

posted this on r/htpc but I want your guys input too if that's all right: Hi folks - I currently have a decent HTPC hooked up but after upgrading to a 4k HDR tv I'm noticing that it is struggling to keep up with modern PC games and kind of want to pull the trigger on new guts for it. I'd like to keep it in the existing Node 202 and retain the SFX 600w PSU if it's enough to power the new parts. Speaking of, current parts are as follows: Asus ROG Strix Z270i gaming mb Intel core i7 7700 (non-k, delidded + liquid metal) Scythe Big Shuriken 2