ENERMAX Unleashes the Beastly MAXREVO 1800W Power Supply

[Hellion]

Pretty pointless product for a North American release where a standard circuit can't handle more than 1600 watts...

[AnonymousGuy]

On 2/20/2019 at 2:26 PM, Monkey Dust said:

Most, if not all, water pumps for custom loops use molex. It can delivery more power than SATA.

 

I guess an 1800W PSU is just LN2 overclockers? Anything else needing that kind of power probably lives in a rack mount case.

Power consumption on LN2 actually goes down vs. air/water cooling.  1800W is either someone trying to mine with an absurd number of graphics cards (which doesn't make sense because the cost is cheaper to use multiple smaller units), or someone doing crazy shit like a 3175W pushing for huge overclocks.

22 hours ago, Hellion said:

Pretty pointless product for a North American release where a standard circuit can't handle more than 1600 watts...

 

Some homes, many commercial buildings will have 20A breakers.  I nearly bought a new-home-build where 20A breakers was an optional upgrade.  Would definitely take that upgrade nowadays.  I pop breakers a lot doing crazy shit like running a mini water heater and a shop vac on the same circuit.

[Hellion]

19 hours ago, AnonymousGuy said:

Power consumption on LN2 actually goes down vs. air/water cooling.  1800W is either someone trying to mine with an absurd number of graphics cards (which doesn't make sense because the cost is cheaper to use multiple smaller units), or someone doing crazy shit like a 3175W pushing for huge overclocks.

 

Some homes, many commercial buildings will have 20A breakers.  I nearly bought a new-home-build where 20A breakers was an optional upgrade.  Would definitely take that upgrade nowadays.  I pop breakers a lot doing crazy shit like running a mini water heater and a shop vac on the same circuit.

Sure, you can purchase a new home or upgrade an old one with pretty much anything you want if you are willing to spend the money.

 

That doesn't change what the current standard is or what the majority of homes are configured for though.

[79wjd]

4 hours ago, Hellion said:

Sure, you can purchase a new home or upgrade an old one with pretty much anything you want if you are willing to spend the money.

 

That doesn't change what the current standard is or what the majority of homes are configured for though.

Because it's the typical person that's going to buy an 1800w PSU and put a 1500w+ load on it.

[Hellion]

1 hour ago, 79wjd said:

Because it's the typical person that's going to buy an 1800w PSU and put a 1500w+ load on it.

I would assume that most in need of 1800+ watts in a consumer unit and actually taking into account the circuit it would run on either live outside north america or would use two separate power supplies. Upgrading a house simply to run this makes no sense. It would literally cost thousands.

[Drak3]

7 minutes ago, Hellion said:

Upgrading a house simply to run this makes no sense. It would literally cost thousands.

In the US, it'd cost $50-60 for a modern home.

$48-55 for the breaker, $2-5 for a "20A" outlet.

 

And unless you're being gouged, retrofitting a decent sized house from the 50s isn't going to be unreasonable for someone looking at this PSU either.

 

[Hellion]

12 hours ago, Drak3 said:

In the US, it'd cost $50-60 for a modern home.

$48-55 for the breaker, $2-5 for a "20A" outlet.

 

And unless you're being gouged, retrofitting a decent sized house from the 50s isn't going to be unreasonable for someone looking at this PSU either.

 

You've clearly never shopped for or owned a home then.

 

Houses from the 50's-70's would for example have all aluminum wiring. This would require all the drywall to be ripped out and all new lines ran just to start...

[Drak3]

1 hour ago, Hellion said:

Houses from the 50's-70's would for example have all aluminum wiring. This would require all the drywall to be ripped out and all new lines ran just to start...

I live in a house built from the 50's. I retrofitted it for a 10 beaker system from a 4 fuse. Switching out the aluminum wiring wasn't a requirement.

[Hellion]

On 2/23/2019 at 8:10 AM, Drak3 said:

I live in a house built from the 50's. I retrofitted it for a 10 beaker system from a 4 fuse. Switching out the aluminum wiring wasn't a requirement.

I can’t speak for what the US policies are. All I know is that our standards are the same.  However, 70 year old aluminum wire is a fire hazard due to oxidation and expansion. By law any grandfathered houses in Canada must be brought up to current code once any alterations are done to the system or structure. Most insurance companies won’t even issue a policy once ownership has changed. I sure as hell would not feel safe in your situation. Not only are you running a severely outdated system but you are also now potentially taxing it with load that it was not originally designed for and without opening the walls for inspection you can’t ensure the correct gauge is being used throughout the entirety to push that additional wattage.

[mr moose]

I don't know how you guys live with such a low wattage.  I overload 2400W more often than I probably should but for the most part 1600W would kill me.

[leadeater]

On 2/24/2019 at 2:49 AM, Hellion said:

You've clearly never shopped for or owned a home then.

 

Houses from the 50's-70's would for example have all aluminum wiring. This would require all the drywall to be ripped out and all new lines ran just to start...

Barring any issues typically you can draw in new cabling while pulling the old out, just crimp the cables together and electrical tape or heat-shrink over to keep it smooth and from catching. Unless you have an existing intention or need to pull off the GIB/drywall/plasterboard doing that is costly so you need to have a good reason to do it.

 

On 2/22/2019 at 12:59 PM, AnonymousGuy said:

Some homes, many commercial buildings will have 20A breakers.  I nearly bought a new-home-build where 20A breakers was an optional upgrade.  Would definitely take that upgrade nowadays.  I pop breakers a lot doing crazy shit like running a mini water heater and a shop vac on the same circuit.

Outside of the US, which I pretty much consider the dark age of electricity, most older houses have at a minimum compliant cabling for 3000W. Anything past the 1960's here will have TPS 1mm minimum (now only allowed for lights) with 2.5mm being the norm which is rated for 5.75kW. Personally I like to run TPS 4mm so I can hook up 15A wall plugs and use dual 3kVA UPSs, completely over kill and electricians will hate you for it.

 

I find it quite satisfying to open up my electrical distribution box and see nothing less than C16 breakers and 3 40A RCDs.

[Hiya!]

Glad it didnt have an RGB..wait...no!!

[leadeater]

On 2/21/2019 at 3:53 AM, CarlBar said:

Even though i'm not a big tea drinker myself it allways amused me too. It's why i enjoy opportunities to link to it. It's just inherently funny.

UK power companies truly fear the ad breaks in EastEnders and Coronation Street lol. Millions of houses going to put the kettle on, ahhhh!!!

[CarlBar]

1 hour ago, leadeater said:

UK power companies truly fear the ad breaks in EastEnders and Coronation Street lol. Millions of houses going to put the kettle on, ahhhh!!!

 

Actually the national grid is entirely responsible for events like that, not the power companies.

 

The plant they have up in snowdonia can go from zero output to it's full operating capacity of 1.7GW in as little as 15 seconds to cope with stuff like this.

[leadeater]

2 hours ago, CarlBar said:

Actually the national grid is entirely responsible for events like that, not the power companies.

Well that is who I was talking about, I expect it's a system much like here where there are companies that produce power, companies that operate power wholesale distribution and companies that retail that to me and you. Those companies could be a combination of those but they're all 'power companies'.

 

And they very much do fear those breaks, there's an entire documentary dedicated specifically to the 'EastEnders issue' and how UK power companies deal with it. That's why it's amusing because it's such a UK/English/British specific issue . Where else in the world do you observe a significant amount of house holds all putting the kettle on at the same time creating a huge demand spike that lasts 10-15 minutes.

[Hellion]

On Saturday, March 09, 2019 at 1:37 AM, leadeater said:

Barring any issues typically you can draw in new cabling while pulling the old out, just crimp the cables together and electrical tape or heat-shrink over to keep it smooth and from catching. Unless you have an existing intention or need to pull off the GIB/drywall/plasterboard doing that is costly so you need to have a good reason to do it.

You are pretty nieve if you think any work on a 70 year old structure is going to go perfectly smooth without any problems. The best bet to save yourself from multiple headaches would be to,  as I already stated, rip out the drywall to create all new runs. This would also allow for switches and sockets to be placed accordingly as the typical layout in 1955 is not practical for today. This would also allow inspection on the newly installed system which, as I also already stated, needs to be done in Canada by an authority to meet code and as a requirement of insurance companies.

[Hellion]

On Saturday, March 09, 2019 at 12:56 AM, mr moose said:

I don't know how you guys live with such a low wattage.  I overload 2400W more often than I probably should but for the most part 1600W would kill me.

Unless you are running a machine shop out of your garage on the same circuit, I don't see how an average household would need more. This also doesn't apply to commercial or industrial buildings. Appliances like electric stoves in kitchens for example most commonly run on 220 volt on a seperate dedicated run.

 

Those upgrading aren't representative of the norm so this power supply is literally for less then the "1%".

[leadeater]

49 minutes ago, Hellion said:

You are pretty nieve if you think any work on a 70 year old structure is going to go perfectly smooth without any problems. The best bet to save yourself from multiple headaches would be to,  as I already stated, rip out the drywall to create all new runs. This would also allow for switches and sockets to be placed accordingly as the typical layout in 1955 is not practical for today. This would also allow inspection on the newly installed system which, as I also already stated, needs to be done in Canada by an authority to meet code and as a requirement of insurance companies.

None of that requires ripping off drywall, that's the literal most brute force method when there are actually other ways that cause less damage and require less work to fix up and finish from actions likely not required. It appears you didn't read what I wrote, draw the new cable through when pulling the out old. As for new runs you can actually get drill and drill extensions that can go from ceiling to floor, and you can cut guide holes/inspection holes as needed.

 

I have a house built in the 1940s, it's got complete new wiring and new sockets that I've had installed and the afore mentioned 4mm TPS for my UPSs. This did not require taking the drywall off. You can if that's the way you want to do it but it's not required to complete that work, as I said if you intended to anyway for other reasons go ahead just don't create more work for yourself if you don't need to.

 

Edit:

Also no house can be sold here without an electrical inspection, every time. Banks won't loan without a copy of the report and insurance companies won't create a policy without it either.

[mr moose]

9 hours ago, Hellion said:

Unless you are running a machine shop out of your garage on the same circuit, I don't see how an average household would need more. This also doesn't apply to commercial or industrial buildings. Appliances like electric stoves in kitchens for example most commonly run on 220 volt on a seperate dedicated run.

 

Those upgrading aren't representative of the norm so this power supply is literally for less then the "1%".

I guess if your used to weak tools you could argue that.

[Drak3]

On 3/9/2019 at 12:56 AM, mr moose said:

I don't know how you guys live with such a low wattage.  I overload 2400W more often than I probably should but for the most part 1600W would kill me.

Most of us in the US don't. Circuits to outlets are rarely running 15A breakers, residential or commercial, because electricians and inspectors know very well that you overbuild and underpromise on this because typical consumers are likely to go over 115v15A without knowing it. And that's modern buildings.

 

Older buildings are more likely running 30A fuses.

 

And everything is wired accordingly, the weak spot is generally either damaged wires (mostly a concern in homes that don't use metal sheilding) or going well over the rating on an outlet.

[79wjd]

47 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Most of us in the US don't. Circuits to outlets are rarely running 15A breakers, residential or commercial, because electricians and inspectors know very well that you overbuild and underpromise on this because typical consumers are likely to go over 115v15A without knowing it. And that's modern buildings.

 

Older buildings are more likely running 30A fuses.

 

And everything is wired accordingly, the weak spot is generally either damaged wires (mostly a concern in homes that don't use metal sheilding) or going well over the rating on an outlet.

Competent electricians, yes.

 

But the field tends to attract quite a significant portion of incompetent, undercutting, and dishonest individuals. Of course the same can be said of any field, but electricians tend to have a higher percentage that satisfy those conditions. And it doesn't help that builders (and individuals alike, but especially builders) very often go with the cheapest bidder above all else.

[mr moose]

1 hour ago, 79wjd said:

Competent electricians, yes.

 

But the field tends to attract quite a significant portion of incompetent, undercutting, and dishonest individuals. Of course the same can be said of any field, but electricians tend to have a higher percentage that satisfy those conditions. And it doesn't help that builders (and individuals alike, but especially builders) very often go with the cheapest bidder above all else.

Do you guys have independent inspectors that randomly check contractors work and sign it off?  Here in Australia an electrician would be lucky to go more than a handful of jobs without having his work inspected and tested to meet standards.   When I extended my house a few years back I had inspectors come for both gas and electrical.

[Drak3]

4 minutes ago, mr moose said:

Do you guys have independent inspectors that randomly check contractors work and sign it off?  Here in Australia an electrician would be lucky to go more than a handful of jobs without having his work inspected and tested to meet standards.   When I extended my house a few years back I had inspectors come for both gas and electrical.

Every service change, remodel, and new construction requires an inspection.

[leadeater]

43 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Every service change, remodel, and new construction requires an inspection.

Similar here in NZ/Aus but there are types of work that can be carried out without an independent inspection/sign off, electricians are expected to be carrying out work up to the electrical code but inspecting everything is far too much.

 

Getting a new circuit breaker and branch of power outlets off that don't require independent inspection, the person/company carrying out the work has to issue a certificate of compliance and in doing that makes them legally liable for their work; deaths, fires, malfunctions due to improper workmanship etc.

 

Electricians also have to look for evidence of a certificate of compliance for anything they are going to work on, if one can't be located then they have to do additional inspection to make sure it is safe to carry out the work and find anything else that is required to be brought up to code and certified along with the work they are doing.

 

Copies of certificates of compliance are required to be left where the work was carried out i.e. In the mains distribution box.

[Drak3]

23 minutes ago, leadeater said:

Similar here in NZ/Aus but there are types of work that can be carried out without an independent inspection/sign off, electricians are expected to be carrying out work up to the electrical code but inspecting everything is far too much.

Simple repair work isn't inspected here. If I were to rewire my house (which again, my house from the 50s doesn't need for this), it wouldn't need to be inspected. But since I moved from 4 30A fuses to a 12 breaker box, and doubled my service, I had to get an inspection.