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My loop has been running for a few days now which I believe by this point, most air bubbles should be out of the loop. Since that isn't the case, I'm probably doing something wrong. Here are some pictures:

 

Initially, when the computer has been powered off

 

v56yPoDl.jpg

 

Starting up the system; all the air comes down, then goes up in the reservoir

 

bpmkky5l.jpg

 

Finally, when everything settles down (computer powered on and running)

 

HvrqiZzl.jpg

 

It is my first loop so I'm pretty sure I'm doing something stupid. Here are my assumptions:

 

1. My piece of tube which I use to help me fill the loop is still attached, therefore the reservoir isn't closed. Do i have to add more water when the system is running?

2. The piece of hard tubing that goes in the reservoir isn't properly attached and air somehow gets inside?

 

I tried tipping the system and everything and some air bubbles do get out of the loop, each time, but when i ultimately power it down, it all goes back up. I'm pretty confused right now so if you guys know anything that'd be great thanks!

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Are all your fittings tight?

Is there anywhere for the air to escape?

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Are all your fittings tight?

Is there anywhere for the air to escape?

To my knowledge, my fittings are all tight and the only place for the air to escape is, as mentioned, the piece of tube that i use to help fill the loop; it is still attached and open

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To my knowledge, my fittings are all tight and the only place for the air to escape is, as mentioned, the piece of tube that i use to help fill the loop; it is still attached and open

I know that Linus has a video on this. I believe its the last video is his watercooling series on the NCIX channel, I will try to find it

 

 

EDIT: I think its this one: 

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Jiggle the tube, close it nice and tight and shake/jiggle the case. Don't be too rough, just enough.

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I know that Linus has a video on this. I believe its the last video is his watercooling series on the NCIX channel, I will try to find it

 

 

EDIT: I think its this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krgK2dcxJ5g

Thanks, I'll check it out and see what happens

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You need a feeding tube in your res to be able to use the top port as a part of your loop. This is a small tube that goes from the top of the res (where the water comes in) to below the water level.

 

You will have to buy one if you haven't already. As a temporary fix, you can fill the res up to the very top.

 

I should also mention that your motherboard should not be powered on during a leak test. Your computer has posted in that picture!

Feel free to PM for any water-cooling questions. Check out my profile for more ways to contact me.

 

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Jiggle the tube, close it nice and tight and shake/jiggle the case. Don't be too rough, just enough.

They're actually hard tubing so can't really jiggle them much..or at all ahaha. I tried shaking up the case; bubbles do comes out of the loop but as soon as i power down my computer, it goes back in

 

You need a feeding tube in your res to be able to use the top port as a part of your loop. This is a small tube that goes from the top of the res (where the water comes in) to below the water level.

 

You will have to buy one if you haven't already. As a temporary fix, you can fill the res up to the very top.

 

I should also mention that your motherboard should not be powered on during a leak test. Your computer has posted in that picture!

I do have a feeding tube and it is below water level too

I'm aware nothing should be powered on during the leak test but I had some problems with my first reservoir and had to change it and replace it, which is why everything's wired up already. There aren't any leaks to my knowledge, its just the air bubble problems right now

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They're actually hard tubing so can't really jiggle them much..or at all ahaha. I tried shaking up the case; bubbles do comes out of the loop but as soon as i power down my computer, it goes back in

 

I do have a feeding tube and it is below water level too

I'm aware nothing should be powered on during the leak test but I had some problems with my first reservoir and had to change it and replace it, which is why everything's wired up already. There aren't any leaks to my knowledge, its just the air bubble problems right now

Tap them? Not to hard, but not very light.

 

Is it weird I know some watercooling stuff even though I have never even touched a watercooled computer before?

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I know that Linus has a video on this. I believe its the last video is his watercooling series on the NCIX channel, I will try to find it

Linus mention to mess around with the speed of the pump, seems to be working a little bit so I'll keep it up for half an hour and see what happens, thanks

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Tap them? Not to hard, but not very light.

 

Is it weird I know some watercooling stuff even though I have never even touched a watercooled computer before?

Doesn't really work ahaha, but thanks for the suggestions

It's not weird, we learn stuff just from watching videos and reading stuff, I was just like that before i build one myself

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I got all the air bubbles out by tilting my case all the way over every edge. Try that.

 

 

You need a feeding tube in your res to be able to use the top port as a part of your loop. This is a small tube that goes from the top of the res (where the water comes in) to below the water level.

 

You will have to buy one if you haven't already. As a temporary fix, you can fill the res up to the very top.

 

I should also mention that your motherboard should not be powered on during a leak test. Your computer has posted in that picture!

You can see that he has a bitspower aqua pipe in the pictures... if that's what you're talking about.

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Note: exercise caution when you do any of this and it helps to pack your system with towels so it catches any leaks while you're bleeding the line and leak testing.

 

Bleeding a loop is often a time consuming task. You should leave a tube attached to the reservoir that is long enough that a little jiggling of your system won't make anything spill. It's also good to detach your PSU from all of your system components except the pump. Jump start your pump with a piece of insulated wire with the ends exposed or just a PSU jumpstarter. There are plenty of guides to do this online.

 

Once you have it jumpstarted, you can use the power switch on the back of the PSU to flip it on and off. Your goal is to basically spin up the pump and send the air bubbles flying through the reservoir, turn it off as they do. Wait for it to settle for a few seconds and rinse and repeat.

 

It helps to give the system a mild jolt, jumble, or jiggle while the pump is running to help some trapped air bubbles escape. I've had this process take anywhere from 5 minutes to 5 hours before. It just depends on your setup.

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I had to give my h320 a few big shakes to get it bled due to its orientation but now it bubble free.

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I got all the air bubbles out by tilting my case all the way over every edge. Try that.

 

 

 

+1

 

I had to do the same thing.  Just make sure you don't tilt it over to the point where the pump isn't getting water...

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Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I don't really know what helped and what didn't since I tried literally everything but by the end, i added just a few mL of water to the reservoir and magic happened. Nevertheless, it's now bubble free and awesome. Thanks again!

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@megadarkwood @tmcclelland455 @Ghost @Artem @CM Nic @TheProfosist @warmmilk

 

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I don't really know what helped and what didn't since I tried literally everything but by the end, i added just a few mL of water to the reservoir and magic happened. Nevertheless, it's now bubble free and awesome. Thanks again!

NP man that H320 in the orientation I have it was probably the hardest thing I ever bled but that probably has to do mostly with what it is I imagine something with a normal res would be far easier.

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To my knowledge, my fittings are all tight and the only place for the air to escape is, as mentioned, the piece of tube that i use to help fill the loop; it is still attached and open

In a water loop air would not escape, water would. Do you have any leaks? An open res would not cause the air. I thing air is trapped some what in a res and it is not escaping so you need to do some light shaking while the pump is on so the air would move with the water flow and go back into the res.

A water-cooled mid-tier gaming PC.

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In a water loop air would not escape, water would. Do you have any leaks? An open res would not cause the air. I thing air is trapped some what in a res and it is not escaping so you need to do some light shaking while the pump is on so the air would move with the water flow and go back into the res.

I didn't have any leaks and I did try to shake the my system while the pump was on. The problem was that all the air that came out of the loop to go on top of the res would eventually go back in for some reason into the loop as soon as the pump is turned off; i could physically see the air bubbles go up the upper piece of tube attached to the reservoir. I still don't quite know how I managed to fix it but it is fixed so I guess I'll leave it at that, thanks for the suggestion though

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I didn't have any leaks and I did try to shake the my system while the pump was on. The problem was that all the air that came out of the loop to go on top of the res would eventually go back in for some reason into the loop as soon as the pump is turned off; i could physically see the air bubbles go up the upper piece of tube attached to the reservoir. I still don't quite know how I managed to fix it but it is fixed so I guess I'll leave it at that, thanks for the suggestion though

Cool.

A water-cooled mid-tier gaming PC.

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