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PowerMac G5 case mod preparation

This is a guide to disassemble* a 2005 Apple PowerMac G5. The main reason I am doing this is to mod the chassis to support ATX components so I can transfer my components into this classic case. This guide is preparing my G5 to receive a kit from The Lazer Hive which will allow me to install my current rigs Motherboard, GPU, and 120mm radiator. 

 

Tools you will need: 4mm 9” Ball-Hex screw driver, 3mm Hex screw driver,  T-10 screwdriver, T-8 screwdriver, PH 1 screwdriver, #0 Jewelers Phillips head Screw Driver, 9/32nd- inch nut driver**, 1/4th- inch nut driver**, flathead screw driver (any size or length), pliers

 

This teardown does not include instructions for HDD removal as my G5 had none, this teardown also does not include many visuals as to how to remove the top shelf.

** In the absence of nut-drivers you may use pliers to remove select nuts and screws, especially if you strip them (like I did about 3 times)

 

  1. Lay your Mac on its side such that the side panel is facing toward you5a8918ea866bf_G5teardown_0076_IMG_4398.jpg.b6ab3e49537a7741d470da01f3fe9ac7.jpg
  2. Open the latch at the rear                                      5a8918ea33a23_G5teardown_0075_IMG_4399.jpg.0e2c5f738f7b1ae0b8e3fb83780f900d.jpg
  3. Remove the side panel
  4. Remove the plastic air guard                                 5a8918e9afc19_G5teardown_0074_IMG_4400.jpg.412d000ec3588d3fdde5c16d7beb45ab.jpg5a8918e93e090_G5teardown_0073_IMG_4401.jpg.a73e2c47e6ba8a75efadb374730fb869.jpg
  5. Remove the front fan assembly by pulling directly up on it and the tab5a8918e8a9a6b_G5teardown_0072_IMG_4402.jpg.75a5d0da62b2563b376bb3d070529c90.jpg5a8918e833f84_G5teardown_0071_IMG_4403.jpg.05e63010d9439c0521eabbc650253af7.jpg
  6. Disconnect the front speaker and fan assembly cables5a8918e7b186a_G5teardown_0070_IMG_4405.jpg.fa0dbb7e6d02a70278bd8cff02407790.jpg
  7. Remove the front speaker and fan assembly by pulling directly up on it5a8918e724397_G5teardown_0069_IMG_4406.jpg.27e1022d936600eb35d6dec19196572a.jpg5a8918e6a489f_G5teardown_0068_IMG_4407.jpg.f1ebc7a7a70bdfdadd262d034b53f4f5.jpg
  8. Remove the plastic dowel and pin keeping the G5 shroud in place5a8918e623207_G5teardown_0067_IMG_4408.jpg.0c302007e21979641aac83f1d6cf161e.jpg
  9. Pull the G5 shroud horizontally to the left and lift up to remove it5a8918e5a2e4f_G5teardown_0066_IMG_4409.jpg.2b27a61c0b17f78853323775763ae46f.jpg5a8918e52ce22_G5teardown_0065_IMG_4410.jpg.32e7d4bed8d5fe4e964a08f21992f206.jpg
  10. Remove the air guide directing air over the CPU heat sync5a8918e452400_G5teardown_0063_IMG_4412.jpg.cce47361ee16a82fa9658a44d77b3874.jpg
  11. Disconnect the rear fan header                                 5a8918e37ebd4_G5teardown_0061_IMG_4414.jpg.6ee50135b5050696893582dfa4642d85.jpg
  12. Unscrew the GPU PCIe bracket screw                     5a8918e31123d_G5teardown_0060_IMG_4417.jpg.da1b1536eb2bb92f964155448f70b93d.jpg
  13. Unlock the GPU from the PCIe slot and remove the GPU by pulling directly up5a8918e28ca4c_G5teardown_0059_IMG_4418.jpg.5db2918a2cdf02c0b1b653c066a74a25.jpg
  14. Apply pressure to the two tabs on the rear fan assembly and remove it by pulling directly up5a8918e1c5a5c_G5teardown_0057_IMG_4420.jpg.5b90946cd7cc70a0858fd6369e10ce13.jpg5a8918e16ea0f_G5teardown_0056_IMG_4421.jpg.bead81351a74b1deaa5510733f06c946.jpg
  15. Remove the screws securing the GPU support bracket and remove it by pulling up (mind the tabs)5a8918e0e092a_G5teardown_0055_IMG_4422.jpg.0be133fdacb698d57b716510be8647d5.jpg5a8918e0805ec_G5teardown_0054_IMG_4423.jpg.5c2128e5962f9b97c0af162595808007.jpg5a8918e0306e5_G5teardown_0053_IMG_4424.jpg.11a00418b16990b4e37a1da302cafcc5.jpg5a8918dfc4460_G5teardown_0052_IMG_4426.jpg.579b5d3439666512c0bd1fc02ae67b55.jpg5a8918df3ceb3_G5teardown_0051_IMG_4427.jpg.380be896e03c2ce73600e55b38477ae1.jpg
  16. Remove the screws securing the PCIe divider to the chassis and the logic board5a8918dead997_G5teardown_0050_IMG_4428.jpg.b0f1229811006127ced43be097c09087.jpg5a8918de22ef1_G5teardown_0049_IMG_4429.jpg.966711abcc98d54c309bb7a3151a4ab6.jpg
  17. Remove the PCIe divider by pulling up after the screws have been removed5a8918dda178f_G5teardown_0048_IMG_4430.jpg.657a76ea4e5352cd87f13cbfb79797b4.jpg5a8918dd2c73c_G5teardown_0047_IMG_4431.jpg.6e1e7456d68b1885596ed0fec60a25bb.jpg5a8918dca0fa9_G5teardown_0046_IMG_4432.jpg.6e5d980aea3f0ef1aa12d20528ea88c9.jpg
  18. Remove the RAM by releasing the locks on the modules5a8918dc2fe21_G5teardown_0045_IMG_4433.jpg.3db93894b2f0c024a460597da119ca92.jpg5a8918db937ce_G5teardown_0044_IMG_4434.jpg.bbd886eac4e6da95cd1dfb56a1a68ee7.jpg
  19. Remove the 8 3mm Hex screws from the heat sync assembly5a8918da2b706_G5teardown_0042_IMG_4436.jpg.70c53d8f9dea2472e8d1a81c7863d791.jpg
  20. Remove the dual Philips head screws                     5a8918d9a4d79_G5teardown_0041_IMG_4437.jpg.defa82200ada771fea346445f5d2ecf9.jpg5a8918d9310e5_G5teardown_0040_IMG_4438.jpg.b06ac8471a6068f056d8b57d1c48ae8a.jpg
  21. Use the 4mm 9” Ball-Hex screw driver to remove the captive screws in the heat sync5a8918d8cadf4_G5teardown_0039_IMG_4439.jpg.d6a6751f348d592cd057a89f37dd517d.jpg5a8918d87fe7a_G5teardown_0038_IMG_4440.jpg.4175197e9175bd7fe97a91bf5aa58c64.jpg
  22. Remove the heat sync                                                                                                            5a8918d7f41af_G5teardown_0037_IMG_4441.png.683307782b623057b688b7d0fbd592a0.png5a8918d73a146_G5teardown_0036_IMG_4442.jpg.fad7ad5aa38074b4d7f1f8bae78aef3a.jpg
  23. Lift the metal bracket for the front fan assembly    5a8918d6b16bb_G5teardown_0035_IMG_4443.jpg.178f25fa645800c79281dd90a652402b.jpg
  24. Release the clips on the back of the metal bracket and remove the fan cable5a8918d638d8b_G5teardown_0034_IMG_4444.jpg.ff02b6494214c91938502d9780682370.jpg5a8918d5b0e6b_G5teardown_0033_IMG_4445.jpg.bacb001dbb5cea10ea86c2a70624872c.jpg5a8918d53b02f_G5teardown_0032_IMG_4446.jpg.55d529b224c60d86a95c4df6cb2fa5bf.jpg
  25. Remove the fan header from the Motherboard        5a8918d4d9f6a_G5teardown_0031_IMG_4447.jpg.6f4ae5c2d179294983501843d83d4e7c.jpg
  26. Remove the screws securing the front panel board to the Motherboard5a8918d31e2a2_G5teardown_0029_IMG_4450.jpg.a1614978549e8d8cb465a6d0fc0f9e0e.jpg
  27. Pull back and away on the front panel board to free it from the chassis5a8918d277de6_G5teardown_0028_IMG_4451.jpg.63977f4752ca4fb94465c6adf04425d0.jpg
  28. Remove all connections from the Motherboard       5a8918d1687a3_G5teardown_0026_IMG_4453.jpg.c68c88cd68c1b464861d367739bcccf1.jpg
  29. Use the T8 screws to unscrew the leads from the PSU5a8918d0500bf_G5teardown_0024_IMG_4455.jpg.e420eeb7ec7ff7e160c462bb923febc1.jpg
  30. Undo the sudo-standoffs the CPU heat sync used5a8918cf5a558_G5teardown_0022_IMG_4457.jpg.01d8a8e066fb43b8bf495d00e6c2dbe9.jpg
  31. Use the #0 Philips head to unscrew the 9 screws securing the rear fan grill to the chassis5a8918cecf8f2_G5teardown_0021_IMG_4458.jpg.eaef20ed6ee6bdaa7a3c3a02ff4839bd.jpg
  32. Remove the grill assembly                                     5a8918cdd4571_G5teardown_0020_IMG_4459.jpg.07d24c853fffbfd35502c759b4262f70.jpg
  33. You can now lift up the Motherboard, remove it from the chassis5a8918cd62a8f_G5teardown_0019_IMG_4461.jpg.54195e43f3fd8f78790751f6e03d9ee3.jpg5a8918ccd3e12_G5teardown_0018_IMG_4462.jpg.7e0d3782bba49439aac45f1acd72727f.jpg
  34. Unscrew the two screws securing the PSU shroud and remove the shroud5a8918cc5933b_G5teardown_0017_IMG_4464.jpg.9c9dda0064c0b7821110c4535f98b082.jpg5a8918cbd69ac_G5teardown_0016_IMG_4465.jpg.29e7d33e7ccecafc7ecd2aee9df92077.jpg
  35. Remove the 4 T10 screws on the bottom of the chassis securing the PSU5a8918cb85c5f_G5teardown_0015_IMG_4466.jpg.7e177bdf73127dd281845a376f68d871.jpg
  36. Remove this standoff to enable removal of the PSU5a8918cb1e811_G5teardown_0014_IMG_4468.jpg.432c38e74f2ecba71f6615d6d8a48a23.jpg5a8918caac5ae_G5teardown_0013_IMG_4469.jpg.a189988a7d9ddde11f0e89c008c379b6.jpg
  37. Remove this nut to allow removal of the plastic liner in the chassis5a8918ca2d23a_G5teardown_0012_IMG_4470.jpg.655e7f2bc2215ae3bf5d6c0b0e77de3c.jpg
  38. Remove the 5 screws securing the fan and HDD caddy to the shelf of the chassis5a8918c932bd4_G5teardown_0010_IMG_4472.jpg.5e718b073c10d808d78b93db2e1ad36a.jpg
  39. Unlatch the optical drive and remove it by simply pulling up5a8918c8c9f3f_G5teardown_0009_IMG_4473.jpg.fd13d31bed6b74114431f36b35ab6ca9.jpg
  40. Remove all the 3mm Hex screws from the top shelf5a8918c8514e8_G5teardown_0008_IMG_4474.jpg.eed8e32368bd398098fb27ef34683342.jpg
  41. Remove the C-clip and push remove the pin holding the latch mechanism in place
  42. Remove the latch mechanism
  43. Unscrew the T8 screws on the back side of the shelf and remove the shelf
  44. Remove the bottom HDD caddy, mind the PCB.  5a8918c74af4f_G5teardown_0006_IMG_4476.jpg.beab3b8af645642f2792ff15e38a37d7.jpg
  45. Remove the two screws securing this fan in place5a8918c633222_G5teardown_0005_IMG_4478.jpg.022e32bcd9192562c6a7d79f56afd673.jpg
  46. Remove the 7 screws securing the top HDD caddy to the chassis5a8918c5cdea5_G5teardown_0004_IMG_4479.jpg.7995574e71e34bbacab205ab6e05ad3b.jpg
  47. Unravel the WiFi antenna from around the lip of the chassis5a8918c549fe8_G5teardown_0003_IMG_4480.jpg.2171c16f06fd8aa1ccfd6cb285e5d754.jpg
  48. Remove the 3 screws securing the antenna assembly and use a flathead screw driver to pry the back from the chassis5a8918c463367_G5teardown_0002_IMG_4481.jpg.21d97904b223169067690ca5affff3d9.jpg
  49. Unscrew the 15 T8 screws                                     5a8918c392b47_G5teardown_0001_IMG_4483.jpg.b2f395851333b34a86921a9e222e3253.jpg
  50. Success!                                                                  5a8918c2aaba4_G5teardown_0000_IMG_4484.jpg.b894fb838d0d7bf60d9be0ff441a7390.jpg

After all this I still cannot decide on where to put my PSU. I can put it in the front, in the shelf, or I can cut the bottom shroud and plop in there……..

IMG_4485.thumb.JPG.d7729452cf3fc905c75015c1d7dd8a17.JPG

Laptop: 2019 16" MacBook Pro i7, 512GB, 5300M 4GB, 16GB DDR4 | Phone: iPhone 13 Pro Max 128GB | Wearables: Apple Watch SE | Car: 2007 Ford Taurus SE | CPU: R7 5700X | Mobo: ASRock B450M Pro4 | RAM: 32GB 3200 | GPU: ASRock RX 5700 8GB | Case: Apple PowerMac G5 | OS: Win 11 | Storage: 1TB Crucial P3 NVME SSD, 1TB PNY CS900, & 4TB WD Blue HDD | PSU: Be Quiet! Pure Power 11 600W | Display: LG 27GL83A-B 1440p @ 144Hz, Dell S2719DGF 1440p @144Hz | Cooling: Wraith Prism | Keyboard: G610 Orion Cherry MX Brown | Mouse: G305 | Audio: Audio Technica ATH-M50X & Blue Snowball | Server: 2018 Core i3 Mac mini, 128GB SSD, Intel UHD 630, 16GB DDR4 | Storage: OWC Mercury Elite Pro Quad (6TB WD Blue HDD, 12TB Seagate Barracuda, 1TB Crucial SSD, 2TB Seagate Barracuda HDD)
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You could reuse the PSU already in the PC... That is if it can supply enough power ;) If the cables are all funky colored you can also sleeve them for quite cheap and get a killer result!

W H E N   T H E   W O R L D   I S   A G A I N S T   Y O U ,   B U I L D   C O M P U T E R S !

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1 minute ago, matias_a_etersen said:

You could reuse the PSU already in the PC... That is if it can supply enough power ;) If the cables are all funky colored you can also sleeve them for quite cheap and get a killer result!

They defienlty aren’t standard. Step 29 shows this things equivalent of a 28pin connector. 

Laptop: 2019 16" MacBook Pro i7, 512GB, 5300M 4GB, 16GB DDR4 | Phone: iPhone 13 Pro Max 128GB | Wearables: Apple Watch SE | Car: 2007 Ford Taurus SE | CPU: R7 5700X | Mobo: ASRock B450M Pro4 | RAM: 32GB 3200 | GPU: ASRock RX 5700 8GB | Case: Apple PowerMac G5 | OS: Win 11 | Storage: 1TB Crucial P3 NVME SSD, 1TB PNY CS900, & 4TB WD Blue HDD | PSU: Be Quiet! Pure Power 11 600W | Display: LG 27GL83A-B 1440p @ 144Hz, Dell S2719DGF 1440p @144Hz | Cooling: Wraith Prism | Keyboard: G610 Orion Cherry MX Brown | Mouse: G305 | Audio: Audio Technica ATH-M50X & Blue Snowball | Server: 2018 Core i3 Mac mini, 128GB SSD, Intel UHD 630, 16GB DDR4 | Storage: OWC Mercury Elite Pro Quad (6TB WD Blue HDD, 12TB Seagate Barracuda, 1TB Crucial SSD, 2TB Seagate Barracuda HDD)
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2 minutes ago, DrMacintosh said:

They defienlty aren’t standard. Step 29 shows this things equivalent of a 28pin connector. 

I see... That'll be somewhat of a pain in the ass to sort out how to hook all of the pins up to the right connectors... It still shouldn't be that hard tough... You do you! I'd give it a try ;)

W H E N   T H E   W O R L D   I S   A G A I N S T   Y O U ,   B U I L D   C O M P U T E R S !

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Just now, matias_a_etersen said:

I see... That'll be somewhat of a pain in the ass to sort out how to hook all of the pins up to the right connectors... It still shouldn't be that hard tough... You do you! I'd give it a try ;)

Even if it was possible, that PSU is from 2005, and I don’t think it could power my system anyway under load xD 

Laptop: 2019 16" MacBook Pro i7, 512GB, 5300M 4GB, 16GB DDR4 | Phone: iPhone 13 Pro Max 128GB | Wearables: Apple Watch SE | Car: 2007 Ford Taurus SE | CPU: R7 5700X | Mobo: ASRock B450M Pro4 | RAM: 32GB 3200 | GPU: ASRock RX 5700 8GB | Case: Apple PowerMac G5 | OS: Win 11 | Storage: 1TB Crucial P3 NVME SSD, 1TB PNY CS900, & 4TB WD Blue HDD | PSU: Be Quiet! Pure Power 11 600W | Display: LG 27GL83A-B 1440p @ 144Hz, Dell S2719DGF 1440p @144Hz | Cooling: Wraith Prism | Keyboard: G610 Orion Cherry MX Brown | Mouse: G305 | Audio: Audio Technica ATH-M50X & Blue Snowball | Server: 2018 Core i3 Mac mini, 128GB SSD, Intel UHD 630, 16GB DDR4 | Storage: OWC Mercury Elite Pro Quad (6TB WD Blue HDD, 12TB Seagate Barracuda, 1TB Crucial SSD, 2TB Seagate Barracuda HDD)
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Wow... you realllllyyy love apple's stuff dont you... otherwise you wont provide such a detailed explanation of how to do all these steps.

 

Thanks for the quality post! 

 

 

If it is not broken, let's fix till it is. 

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This kind of post will blow up in forum like tonymac86 

here? nah.... 

If it is not broken, let's fix till it is. 

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Yeah not to many people here care about the Mac. Even a Mac like this which was essentially a normal PC at the time. 

 

 

Laptop: 2019 16" MacBook Pro i7, 512GB, 5300M 4GB, 16GB DDR4 | Phone: iPhone 13 Pro Max 128GB | Wearables: Apple Watch SE | Car: 2007 Ford Taurus SE | CPU: R7 5700X | Mobo: ASRock B450M Pro4 | RAM: 32GB 3200 | GPU: ASRock RX 5700 8GB | Case: Apple PowerMac G5 | OS: Win 11 | Storage: 1TB Crucial P3 NVME SSD, 1TB PNY CS900, & 4TB WD Blue HDD | PSU: Be Quiet! Pure Power 11 600W | Display: LG 27GL83A-B 1440p @ 144Hz, Dell S2719DGF 1440p @144Hz | Cooling: Wraith Prism | Keyboard: G610 Orion Cherry MX Brown | Mouse: G305 | Audio: Audio Technica ATH-M50X & Blue Snowball | Server: 2018 Core i3 Mac mini, 128GB SSD, Intel UHD 630, 16GB DDR4 | Storage: OWC Mercury Elite Pro Quad (6TB WD Blue HDD, 12TB Seagate Barracuda, 1TB Crucial SSD, 2TB Seagate Barracuda HDD)
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If you take the guts out of the stock power supply you can put the guts of a modern one right inside with a little standoff modification and some soldering to use the original power plug.   

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4 hours ago, Anaconda101 said:

If you take the guts out of the stock power supply you can put the guts of a modern one right inside with a little standoff modification and some soldering to use the original power plug.   

Which I am not willing to do lol 

Laptop: 2019 16" MacBook Pro i7, 512GB, 5300M 4GB, 16GB DDR4 | Phone: iPhone 13 Pro Max 128GB | Wearables: Apple Watch SE | Car: 2007 Ford Taurus SE | CPU: R7 5700X | Mobo: ASRock B450M Pro4 | RAM: 32GB 3200 | GPU: ASRock RX 5700 8GB | Case: Apple PowerMac G5 | OS: Win 11 | Storage: 1TB Crucial P3 NVME SSD, 1TB PNY CS900, & 4TB WD Blue HDD | PSU: Be Quiet! Pure Power 11 600W | Display: LG 27GL83A-B 1440p @ 144Hz, Dell S2719DGF 1440p @144Hz | Cooling: Wraith Prism | Keyboard: G610 Orion Cherry MX Brown | Mouse: G305 | Audio: Audio Technica ATH-M50X & Blue Snowball | Server: 2018 Core i3 Mac mini, 128GB SSD, Intel UHD 630, 16GB DDR4 | Storage: OWC Mercury Elite Pro Quad (6TB WD Blue HDD, 12TB Seagate Barracuda, 1TB Crucial SSD, 2TB Seagate Barracuda HDD)
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Excellent detail - have been musing to do my own attempt at this for some fun.

 

Made an account just to say thanks, and look forward to more updates and see what you put in there - also your feedback on The Laser Hive kit.

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14 hours ago, DrMacintosh said:

Which I am not willing to do lol 


Fair enough. Thank you though for posting such a detailed guide. Even IFixit's guide is less detailed than this. 

 

The laser hive has a kit that has a power supply mount built in. Though I'm not sure how original you are going for. 

 

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1 hour ago, MagicWok said:

also your feedback on The Laser Hive kit.

It’s a nice little kit. Mine arrived two days ago.

 

The seller emails you a guide on pretty much everything you need to do and the kit has everything that you need. 

 

I wont be able to comment more on how I like it until after it’s built but everyone else seems to like the LazerHives stuff pretty well. My only complaint is how expensive it was T.T 

 

Its ok tho, it’s all for the aesthetic. 

Laptop: 2019 16" MacBook Pro i7, 512GB, 5300M 4GB, 16GB DDR4 | Phone: iPhone 13 Pro Max 128GB | Wearables: Apple Watch SE | Car: 2007 Ford Taurus SE | CPU: R7 5700X | Mobo: ASRock B450M Pro4 | RAM: 32GB 3200 | GPU: ASRock RX 5700 8GB | Case: Apple PowerMac G5 | OS: Win 11 | Storage: 1TB Crucial P3 NVME SSD, 1TB PNY CS900, & 4TB WD Blue HDD | PSU: Be Quiet! Pure Power 11 600W | Display: LG 27GL83A-B 1440p @ 144Hz, Dell S2719DGF 1440p @144Hz | Cooling: Wraith Prism | Keyboard: G610 Orion Cherry MX Brown | Mouse: G305 | Audio: Audio Technica ATH-M50X & Blue Snowball | Server: 2018 Core i3 Mac mini, 128GB SSD, Intel UHD 630, 16GB DDR4 | Storage: OWC Mercury Elite Pro Quad (6TB WD Blue HDD, 12TB Seagate Barracuda, 1TB Crucial SSD, 2TB Seagate Barracuda HDD)
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1 hour ago, MagicWok said:

have been musing to do my own attempt at this for some fun.

If you do ask if you need help removing the top shelf, I wasn’t too clear in my guide I think. I was so caught up figuring out how to get it out that I forgot to take some pics of it. 

Laptop: 2019 16" MacBook Pro i7, 512GB, 5300M 4GB, 16GB DDR4 | Phone: iPhone 13 Pro Max 128GB | Wearables: Apple Watch SE | Car: 2007 Ford Taurus SE | CPU: R7 5700X | Mobo: ASRock B450M Pro4 | RAM: 32GB 3200 | GPU: ASRock RX 5700 8GB | Case: Apple PowerMac G5 | OS: Win 11 | Storage: 1TB Crucial P3 NVME SSD, 1TB PNY CS900, & 4TB WD Blue HDD | PSU: Be Quiet! Pure Power 11 600W | Display: LG 27GL83A-B 1440p @ 144Hz, Dell S2719DGF 1440p @144Hz | Cooling: Wraith Prism | Keyboard: G610 Orion Cherry MX Brown | Mouse: G305 | Audio: Audio Technica ATH-M50X & Blue Snowball | Server: 2018 Core i3 Mac mini, 128GB SSD, Intel UHD 630, 16GB DDR4 | Storage: OWC Mercury Elite Pro Quad (6TB WD Blue HDD, 12TB Seagate Barracuda, 1TB Crucial SSD, 2TB Seagate Barracuda HDD)
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2 hours ago, Anaconda101 said:

The laser hive has a kit that has a power supply mount built in. Though I'm not sure how original you are going for. 

I considered the PSU bracket modle but decided against it because it would require me to cut out the drive caddy in the top shelf. 

 

 

Laptop: 2019 16" MacBook Pro i7, 512GB, 5300M 4GB, 16GB DDR4 | Phone: iPhone 13 Pro Max 128GB | Wearables: Apple Watch SE | Car: 2007 Ford Taurus SE | CPU: R7 5700X | Mobo: ASRock B450M Pro4 | RAM: 32GB 3200 | GPU: ASRock RX 5700 8GB | Case: Apple PowerMac G5 | OS: Win 11 | Storage: 1TB Crucial P3 NVME SSD, 1TB PNY CS900, & 4TB WD Blue HDD | PSU: Be Quiet! Pure Power 11 600W | Display: LG 27GL83A-B 1440p @ 144Hz, Dell S2719DGF 1440p @144Hz | Cooling: Wraith Prism | Keyboard: G610 Orion Cherry MX Brown | Mouse: G305 | Audio: Audio Technica ATH-M50X & Blue Snowball | Server: 2018 Core i3 Mac mini, 128GB SSD, Intel UHD 630, 16GB DDR4 | Storage: OWC Mercury Elite Pro Quad (6TB WD Blue HDD, 12TB Seagate Barracuda, 1TB Crucial SSD, 2TB Seagate Barracuda HDD)
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Torx screws really are the best 

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  • 5 months later...

heh bit of a necro but i got a Powermac G5 + kit from a guy who was going to throw it away but i 1: cant figure out what kit i have because it dosent seem to match any of the laserhive kits 2: how to mount the kit in the case, i assume i have to cut like 80% of the back off with a dremmel but i have all these mounts and stuff in a bag idfk what to do with and the dude only left two mobo standoffs in the screws bag :/

 

got anything? have you finished it and how was the install of your kit? for the PSU mount im putting it right in the middle of the floor with some tape and an extention to plug it in at the back because i dont have a PSU bracket in my kit

I spent $2500 on building my PC and all i do with it is play no games atm & watch anime at 1080p(finally) watch YT and write essays...  nothing, it just sits there collecting dust...

Builds:

The Toaster Project! Northern Bee!

 

The original LAN PC build log! (Old, dead and replaced by The Toaster Project & 5.0)

Spoiler

"Here is some advice that might have gotten lost somewhere along the way in your life. 

 

#1. Treat others as you would like to be treated.

#2. It's best to keep your mouth shut; and appear to be stupid, rather than open it and remove all doubt.

#3. There is nothing "wrong" with being wrong. Learning from a mistake can be more valuable than not making one in the first place.

 

Follow these simple rules in life, and I promise you, things magically get easier. " - MageTank 31-10-2016

 

 

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Wait... they sell kits? To convert a PowerMac G5 to an ATX case?

 wokethonk.png.a6e7104b34d8ab2f09c34ad08608a739.png

 

now I just need to settle ripping out the perfectly functioning internals of my piece of Apple history with my conscience...

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

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52 minutes ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

heh bit of a necro but i got a Powermac G5 + kit from a guy who was going to throw it away but i 1: cant figure out what kit i have because it dosent seem to match any of the laserhive kits 2: how to mount the kit in the case, i assume i have to cut like 80% of the back off with a dremmel but i have all these mounts and stuff in a bag idfk what to do with and the dude only left two mobo standoffs in the screws bag :/

 

got anything? have you finished it and how was the install of your kit? for the PSU mount im putting it right in the middle of the floor with some tape and an extention to plug it in at the back because i dont have a PSU bracket in my kit

I have a build log here

Laptop: 2019 16" MacBook Pro i7, 512GB, 5300M 4GB, 16GB DDR4 | Phone: iPhone 13 Pro Max 128GB | Wearables: Apple Watch SE | Car: 2007 Ford Taurus SE | CPU: R7 5700X | Mobo: ASRock B450M Pro4 | RAM: 32GB 3200 | GPU: ASRock RX 5700 8GB | Case: Apple PowerMac G5 | OS: Win 11 | Storage: 1TB Crucial P3 NVME SSD, 1TB PNY CS900, & 4TB WD Blue HDD | PSU: Be Quiet! Pure Power 11 600W | Display: LG 27GL83A-B 1440p @ 144Hz, Dell S2719DGF 1440p @144Hz | Cooling: Wraith Prism | Keyboard: G610 Orion Cherry MX Brown | Mouse: G305 | Audio: Audio Technica ATH-M50X & Blue Snowball | Server: 2018 Core i3 Mac mini, 128GB SSD, Intel UHD 630, 16GB DDR4 | Storage: OWC Mercury Elite Pro Quad (6TB WD Blue HDD, 12TB Seagate Barracuda, 1TB Crucial SSD, 2TB Seagate Barracuda HDD)
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40 minutes ago, Zando Bob said:

Wait... they sell kits? To convert a PowerMac G5 to an ATX case?

 wokethonk.png.a6e7104b34d8ab2f09c34ad08608a739.png

 

now I just need to settle ripping out the perfectly functioning internals of my piece of Apple history with my conscience...

Yes, and you should do it

 

Laptop: 2019 16" MacBook Pro i7, 512GB, 5300M 4GB, 16GB DDR4 | Phone: iPhone 13 Pro Max 128GB | Wearables: Apple Watch SE | Car: 2007 Ford Taurus SE | CPU: R7 5700X | Mobo: ASRock B450M Pro4 | RAM: 32GB 3200 | GPU: ASRock RX 5700 8GB | Case: Apple PowerMac G5 | OS: Win 11 | Storage: 1TB Crucial P3 NVME SSD, 1TB PNY CS900, & 4TB WD Blue HDD | PSU: Be Quiet! Pure Power 11 600W | Display: LG 27GL83A-B 1440p @ 144Hz, Dell S2719DGF 1440p @144Hz | Cooling: Wraith Prism | Keyboard: G610 Orion Cherry MX Brown | Mouse: G305 | Audio: Audio Technica ATH-M50X & Blue Snowball | Server: 2018 Core i3 Mac mini, 128GB SSD, Intel UHD 630, 16GB DDR4 | Storage: OWC Mercury Elite Pro Quad (6TB WD Blue HDD, 12TB Seagate Barracuda, 1TB Crucial SSD, 2TB Seagate Barracuda HDD)
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Just now, DrMacintosh said:

Yes, and you should do it

 

heck yee. Just what do I do with the internals? They're in perfect condition and I'd hate to throw them away. 

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

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Just now, Zando Bob said:

heck yee. Just what do I do with the internals? They're in perfect condition and I'd hate to throw them away. 

Yeah, I have a working G5 Quad Air cooled mobo and CPU just laying around. I've considered selling them on eBay or something. idk

Laptop: 2019 16" MacBook Pro i7, 512GB, 5300M 4GB, 16GB DDR4 | Phone: iPhone 13 Pro Max 128GB | Wearables: Apple Watch SE | Car: 2007 Ford Taurus SE | CPU: R7 5700X | Mobo: ASRock B450M Pro4 | RAM: 32GB 3200 | GPU: ASRock RX 5700 8GB | Case: Apple PowerMac G5 | OS: Win 11 | Storage: 1TB Crucial P3 NVME SSD, 1TB PNY CS900, & 4TB WD Blue HDD | PSU: Be Quiet! Pure Power 11 600W | Display: LG 27GL83A-B 1440p @ 144Hz, Dell S2719DGF 1440p @144Hz | Cooling: Wraith Prism | Keyboard: G610 Orion Cherry MX Brown | Mouse: G305 | Audio: Audio Technica ATH-M50X & Blue Snowball | Server: 2018 Core i3 Mac mini, 128GB SSD, Intel UHD 630, 16GB DDR4 | Storage: OWC Mercury Elite Pro Quad (6TB WD Blue HDD, 12TB Seagate Barracuda, 1TB Crucial SSD, 2TB Seagate Barracuda HDD)
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