[Build Log] Project Frost - Case-Labs THW10 | X99 Watercooled | i7 6950X | Titan X | Borosilicate Glass Tubing

[Damascus]

On 08/02/2018 at 10:09 PM, done12many2 said:

 

Absolute beast of a board. I'd surrender my Extreme Edition 10 for one in a heartbeat considering my current use cases.  

I would buy this myself but have neither the free cash or a US adress, enjoy the temptation!

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00XUDLXJG/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=all

[Revan654]

Testing Phase 1:

 

USB

 

[X] Aqua-Computer Power Adjust 3 (Front In-Take)

[X] Aqua-Computer Power Adjust 3 (Motherboard Exhaust)

[X] Aqua-Computer Power Adjust 3 (UV LED Lighting)

[X] Aqua-Computer D5 Pump with Aquabus

[X] Aqua-Computer D5 Pump with Aquabus

[X] Aqua-Computer Aquaero 6XT (Blue Edition)

[X] Aqua-Computer Farbwerk

[X] Aqua-Computer Vision Table Top

[Z] Remove Vision screen from Table top Unit to sleeve the USB cable

[X] 1st Hubby 7 to Motherboard Connector

[X] 2nd Hubby 7 to Motherboard Connector

 

Fan Testing Through Splitter:

 

[] Splitty 9 - Bottom 560 Radiator PSU Side (ML Pro 140)

[] Splitty 9 - Bottom 560 Radiator Motherboard Side (ML Pro 140)

[] Splitty 9 - Top 420 Radiator Motherboard Side (ML Pro 140)

[] Splitty 9 - Top 420 Radiator PSU Side (ML Pro 140)

[] Splitty 9 - Front Intake Fans (SW3 PWM to 3-pin) *AQ6 has issues with BeQuiet PWM signal, they must be converted to 3-pin or run in different mode*

[X] Splitty 9 - UV LED Lighting with 2-pin Connection

 

Cables:

 

[] Decide on What form of Display port cable to Use (Mini or Standard

[] Decided on the brand of cables to use (I have two types)

[] Decided what form of HDMI cable to use (Standard Fat HDMI cable or Slim Series)

 

Hard-Drives Formatted

 

[X]Hard-Drive Blue

[]Hard-Drive Blue *Just Arrived*

[X]Hard-Drive Blue

[X]Hard-Drive Blue

[X]Hard-Drive Green

[X]Hard-Drive Green

[X]Hard-Drive Green

[]Hard-Drive SSD Evo 2TB *Raid*

[]Hard-Drive SSD Evo 2TB *Raid*

[]Hard-Drive SSD Evo 2TB *Raid*

[]Hard-Drive SSD Evo 960 M.2 * Has Waterblock Attached to it*

[]Hard-Drive SSD Pro 960 M.2 * Has Waterblock Attached to it*

[Z]File Duplicator Program run before Moving Drives. *Over 1TB data has been removed so far*

[] See how to setup my Raid 0 Drives - Controller, Bios or Windows *Note* these are not super important drives, They are used for capture Only.

[] Figure out how I'm gong to install Windows 10 and tell the difference between my two M.2 drives. Since I'm not sure how M.2 drives are listed in the install Window.

 

X - Complete

Z - In Progress

 

------

 

 

^ I cut into my SSD Bracket and expanded it. which will now allow me to install all three SSD in one bracket and free up slot in my HDD cage to install my final harddrive.

 

-----

 

 

My Sata Power Cables using low Profile Sleeving, MDPC-X is to larger to fit under the cover.

 

-------------

 

 

^ Mini Fan Extensions for my Front In-Take (Left Side - Motherboard Side)

 

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Cable Clips:

 

 

Left: MainFrameCustoms - These are beyond Cheap, If I knew they were this cheap I would have never ordered them

Middle:  Panduit - High Quality Nylon, Can withstand outside eviroments if needed. Mouser sells just about every size.

Right: MDPC-X (aka HellermannTyton) these are hard to find in all the sizes(atlease in the US), other then what MDPC-X sells. Also very high Quality like  Panduit.

 

------

 

 

Got my Blu-Ray player the other day, It also supports 4K, I doubt I will be using 4K. Atlease until Intel removes the need to use SGX encryption to watch a simple movie.

 

-----

 

 

It also seems Molex has tweaked the Connectors, Removing the stylish texture they use to have, Which in my opinion looked great.

 

Also Molex is finally getting around to making Pcie connectors for Gen 3. It's still atlease 3 to 6 months away from being released.

[Revan654]

USB

 

[X] Aqua-Computer Power Adjust 3 (Front In-Take)

[X] Aqua-Computer Power Adjust 3 (Motherboard Exhaust)

[X] Aqua-Computer Power Adjust 3 (UV LED Lighting)

[X] Aqua-Computer D5 Pump with Aquabus

[X] Aqua-Computer D5 Pump with Aquabus

[X] Aqua-Computer Aquaero 6XT (Blue Edition)

[X] Aqua-Computer Farbwerk

[X] Aqua-Computer Vision Table Top

[Z] Remove Vision screen from Table top Unit to sleeve the USB cable

[X] 1st Hubby 7 to Motherboard Connector

[X] 2nd Hubby 7 to Motherboard Connector

 

Fan Testing Through Splitter:

 

[Z] Splitty 9 - Bottom 560 Radiator PSU Side (ML Pro 140) *One Fan is having problems in PWM Mode*

[X] Splitty 9 - Bottom 560 Radiator Motherboard Side (ML Pro 140)

[Z] Splitty 9 - Top 420 Radiator Motherboard Side (ML Pro 140) *PWM Signal is not going through, going at Full blast, AQ can't access it*

[Z] Splitty 9 - Top 420 Radiator PSU Side (ML Pro 140) *One Fan is having problems in PWM Mode*

[X] Splitty 9 - Front Intake Fans (SW3 PWM to 3-pin) *AQ6 has issues with BeQuiet PWM signal, they must be converted to 3-pin or run in different mode*

[X] Splitty 9 - UV LED Lighting with 2-pin Connection

 

X - Complete

Z - In Progress

 

I think Voltage is to high on one of my cables, It keeps knocking the LCD and Background LED's off.

[Revan654]

Official Announcement for HDR with Capture Card I have: http://www.magewell.com/6377.html

 

Even though it was added last year. Now to find software that can actually capture in HDR.

 

------

 

 

UPS is officially up and running, Only have my old PC and Monitor plugged into it right now.

 

-----

 

 

Pretty much done, There only so much I can do with all those wires.

 

----

 

 

All my main tools I have gathered for Wire creation and Sleeving.

[Revan654]

It's That time:

 

[Revan654]

So far: Only one small leak, Since the fitting wasn't tight enough on the mono block. It's fixed now.

 

- I was afraid of this, Looks like I'm going have to alter lighting a bit, The UV is not working at all in my build. My room is just to bright to use UV lighting. Going to add some Blue(G2 LED's, same LED's used in BMW) most likely just solid and may do away with the RGB strips at the top and bottom. It's unlikely I will be changing the color once set to Blue.

 

*Going to Switch to Dark-Side LED's first to see if they can do better job. The Ones I got from Amazon are doing a horrible job. I will also try Nanoxia, Since there are LED 5050 instead of the normal 3528.

 

[KSP]

Looking great! Definitely going to turn out to be a killer build! On a side note, how many hours of planning and working do you think you've put into this build? I only dream to have as much dedication as you do lol  . 

[Revan654]

On 3/25/2018 at 10:43 PM, KSP said:

Looking great! Definitely going to turn out to be a killer build! On a side note, how many hours of planning and working do you think you've put into this build? I only dream to have as much dedication as you do lol  . 

 

No idea, I don't work on it everyday. There was a stretch of time I didn't touch it due to other concerns. There just allot of testing involved which can take weeks to do.

 

Right now I'm in the middle of HDR testing, Which is allot more complex then I thought it would be. It looks like I'm going have to write my own software to get this to work.

 

This is whats causing massive delays. Weeks and still not anywhere closer to what I need to do.

 

Anyone know of any Software that will fully support DirectShow Video Card and able to capture HDR Metadata? Or have some skill set in Programming. Programming is a bit out of my wheel house.

 

This is what I'm trying to do:

 

I'm not 100% sure where to start or what I'm looking for.

 

What I'm trying to do: Using DirectShow Filters in GraphEdit to create a way to bring in HDR MetaData from the capture source and send it all the way through to the file writer.

The First Problem: When I get to say AVIMux, It accepts the input of bitmapinfoheader However it doesn't output the bitmapinfoheader. Which basically loses the Color settings for Metadata which is needed for HDR.

The Second Problem: I'm using the basic filters, allot of filters will not work since I'm using different Colorspace which these filters were not designed for. Like Rec.2020 (BT.2020).

The Third Problem: The interface will not connect to allot of filters due to the capture Source.

Side Note: Is it possible to bring other filters into GraphEdit like FFMPEG? Allot of these filters are so outdated.

 

Is there a way to go into the AVImux and alter it so bitmapinfoheader is also outputted? Or maybe something new to use?

 

Few other things: I have access to the SDK for the Capture Source but I'm not sure what to do with it.

 

-----------

 

- After trying to get it to work and still not working (Even with official Cables). I pulled my RGB LED"s from the Case and Replaced them with Solid Blue (G2).

* Side note* These LED are Bright, Even brighter then the RGB LED's which are SMD 5050. G2 LED's are only 3528. I guess there is a reason why BMW uses the same LED's.

-  Ordered one last PowerAdjust 3 to hook up.

- Leak test is finished, Everything is sealed. For some reason one of the tubes still has some white powder stuck in it (From cutting the glass). I can't get it removed from it.

 

--------

 

 

Rec2020 fully running on my Monitor (It's only plugged into a old GPU currently, It's why it's not 4K). I will say this Holy hell, Once you see a monitor that is 10Bit with Rec.2020. Every other monitor looks like crap.

 

 

 

 

 

[kirby1596]

@Revan654

Love the build, joined the forum just to follow your build; I have an upcoming build using similar liquid cooling components, attention to detail, and general quality. I've been doing the whole cart thing for the past 6 months; making new orders for forgotten parts, changing my mind, some fitment issues, etc. 

 

As I have read through this 37 page thread tonight, I came across one thing that I found interesting and was just about to pull the trigger on: screws.

 

So, im using CaseLabs SMA8-A and HWLabs GTR radiators, Corsair ML140 Pros. I assumed 35mm would be to long and 30mm screws would be just about perfect, since the ML140s are 25mm thick, leaves 5mm for bracket thickness, a washer, and threading. But you're saying 30mm is to short all together and 33mm (cut 35s) are needed? 

 

I'll Also be using Splitty9s to control 560/480 Rads all ML140/120s. I've been warned by AQ rep that Corsair can have PWM problems with a lot of fans on same channel. Which it looks like you've noted some in your testing. Please keep us updated on any findings with this as I will certainly have the same hurdles. 

 

For some reason, I opted for a Lamptron CW611 instead of an Aquaero (mostly # of channels and power per channel, I do realize you can expand the Aquaero with PA3's).  I've been kicking around switching over to the AQ6XT, but I really dont care for the feature level as they are too rich for me lol; not pricing.. I don't care for software control/automation. I like manual controllers for some reason /shrug. In the same breathe, I love the Aquaero's look, your blackout made it that much better, and accessories like the heatsinks and even waterblock. Oh, and I already have a farbwerk / front bay mount. Haven't received the front bay mount yet, hoping somehow I can mount Splitty9s or Koolance Freq Adapter to it as the Farb might get lonely by itself... haha.

 

I appreciate the help. Also, fantastic work on the build. Looks amazing and it's great to see someone who is doing a level of work I 'trust'.

 

Kudos,

 

-K1rby

[Mnpctech]

nice selection of parts (bookmarked)

[Revan654]

5 hours ago, Mnpctech said:

nice selection of parts (bookmarked)

Thanks. Got a few items from your shop. The screws you sells are defiantly allot better then anything that comes with the rads you buy. I just couldn't replace one set due to how different the screws are.

 

On 4/19/2018 at 7:28 AM, kirby1596 said:

@Revan654

Love the build, joined the forum just to follow your build; I have an upcoming build using similar liquid cooling components, attention to detail, and general quality. I've been doing the whole cart thing for the past 6 months; making new orders for forgotten parts, changing my mind, some fitment issues, etc. 

 

As I have read through this 37 page thread tonight, I came across one thing that I found interesting and was just about to pull the trigger on: screws.

 

So, im using CaseLabs SMA8-A and HWLabs GTR radiators, Corsair ML140 Pros. I assumed 35mm would be to long and 30mm screws would be just about perfect, since the ML140s are 25mm thick, leaves 5mm for bracket thickness, a washer, and threading. But you're saying 30mm is to short all together and 33mm (cut 35s) are needed? 

 

I'll Also be using Splitty9s to control 560/480 Rads all ML140/120s. I've been warned by AQ rep that Corsair can have PWM problems with a lot of fans on same channel. Which it looks like you've noted some in your testing. Please keep us updated on any findings with this as I will certainly have the same hurdles. 

 

For some reason, I opted for a Lamptron CW611 instead of an Aquaero (mostly # of channels and power per channel, I do realize you can expand the Aquaero with PA3's).  I've been kicking around switching over to the AQ6XT, but I really dont care for the feature level as they are too rich for me lol; not pricing.. I don't care for software control/automation. I like manual controllers for some reason /shrug. In the same breathe, I love the Aquaero's look, your blackout made it that much better, and accessories like the heatsinks and even waterblock. Oh, and I already have a farbwerk / front bay mount. Haven't received the front bay mount yet, hoping somehow I can mount Splitty9s or Koolance Freq Adapter to it as the Farb might get lonely by itself... haha.

 

I appreciate the help. Also, fantastic work on the build. Looks amazing and it's great to see someone who is doing a level of work I 'trust'.

 

Kudos,

 

-K1rby

 

I been away, Why the delay on the reply.

 

- You need about 32 to 35mm screws if it needs to pass through any brackets. 30mm if it just needs to pass through the fan(maybe a bit more since GTR require longer screws).

- The PWM problem is mainly for there older Fans. The SP if I recall correctly. You also have to be careful of the voltage and it does not surpass the threshold. So far 8 per channel and I have zero issues, they been running for a few hours on my one test.

- Not sure if Lamptron even supports Fully PWM. Allot of the so called PWM are nothing but fake DC controller channels. MLPro's have to run in PWM or they will start to grind and make noise(Due to how Mag Lev tech works).

- PA3's are only for DC fans, There not for PWM. You can buy Slave units and connect them.

- The Farbwerk is giant PIA, I could never get mine to work correctly. I select Blue and you get some odd shade of it or it has a green tint to it. I just went with Solid Colors & I also have a standalone RGB controller installed just incase I need it.

 

[kirby1596]

5 hours ago, Revan654 said:

 

I been away, Why the delay on the reply.

 

- You need about 32 to 35mm screws if it needs to pass through any brackets. 30mm if it just needs to pass through the fan(maybe a bit more since GTR require longer screws).

- The PWM problem is mainly for there older Fans. The SP if I recall correctly. You also have to be careful of the voltage and it does not surpass the threshold. So far 8 per channel and I have zero issues, they been running for a few hours on my one test.

- Not sure if Lamptron even supports Fully PWM. Allot of the so called PWM are nothing but fake DC controller channels. MLPro's have to run in PWM or they will start to grind and make noise(Due to how Mag Lev tech works).

- PA3's are only for DC fans, There not for PWM. You can buy Slave units and connect them.

- The Farbwerk is giant PIA, I could never get mine to work correctly. I select Blue and you get some odd shade of it or it has a green tint to it. I just went with Solid Colors & I also have a standalone RGB controller installed just incase I need it.

 

No Worries I appreciate the reply. 

I have RMA'd my Lamptron CW611, I knew it was Voltage controlled 3 pin, but for some reason still opted for it. I'll be obtaining an AQ6 Pro or XT, havent decided don't really care for remote or touchscreen but prefer the buttons look better.. lol.

 

You don't know how much you're helping with the screw advice, I'm placing like an $80 screw order and don't want to mess with returning screws... lol.

 

Glad to hear the PWM problem isn't so with ML's, I love my ML140s. Also love SPLITTY9s, so.

 

Sad to hear you had troubles with the Farbwerk. I've ordered 3 19" Darkside Rigid RGB  strips and 2 12" Rigid RGB. Farbwerk is already on the and I'm hoping for basic rolling/breathing rgb functions / stagnant red when wanted. I know cheap 'wall wart' style controllers can accomplish this but I really enjoy the look of the front bay mount for expansion devices from Aquacomputer. -PS I do have Darkside to RGB Cables and splitters as I realize the Farbwerk only has 4 headers. 

 

 

Thanks again for your help,

 

Can't wait to see this build finished. I should probably log my build, I decided no costs barred a while ago now, and its been a long road lol. This is truly inspiring.

 

K1

[Revan654]

On 4/20/2018 at 9:45 PM, kirby1596 said:

 

No Worries I appreciate the reply. 

I have RMA'd my Lamptron CW611, I knew it was Voltage controlled 3 pin, but for some reason still opted for it. I'll be obtaining an AQ6 Pro or XT, havent decided don't really care for remote or touchscreen but prefer the buttons look better.. lol.

 

You don't know how much you're helping with the screw advice, I'm placing like an $80 screw order and don't want to mess with returning screws... lol.

 

Glad to hear the PWM problem isn't so with ML's, I love my ML140s. Also love SPLITTY9s, so.

 

Sad to hear you had troubles with the Farbwerk. I've ordered 3 19" Darkside Rigid RGB  strips and 2 12" Rigid RGB. Farbwerk is already on the and I'm hoping for basic rolling/breathing rgb functions / stagnant red when wanted. I know cheap 'wall wart' style controllers can accomplish this but I really enjoy the look of the front bay mount for expansion devices from Aquacomputer. -PS I do have Darkside to RGB Cables and splitters as I realize the Farbwerk only has 4 headers. 

 

 

Thanks again for your help,

 

Can't wait to see this build finished. I should probably log my build, I decided no costs barred a while ago now, and its been a long road lol. This is truly inspiring.

 

K1

 

Again I was away not much time to work. Worst case scenario you can just cut the screws(Which is what I did with the 35mm to get them to 32mm). The rest of my screws were all 30mm. All my major screws came from @Mnpctech . They by far have the best quality, you may pay a little bit more but your getting quality screws that will wear&tear and are stainless steel.

 

Farbwerk also uses different RGB input then every other RGB controller on the market. I have a standard RGB controller with Remote that I ordered awhile ago from Darkside which works with all there RGB LED's.

 

FYI, There G2 LED(Which only come in Solid Colors) are very bright & High Quality. One LED strip could light up the entire case if you want (Minus UV version).

 

The only way to get my farbwerk fixed would be to send it to Aqua-Computer, It would be cheaper and faster just to buy a new one. It's about 30+ to ship the item. Shame I couldn't use RGB controller, Since I created some some RGB cables that can sort lock onto the RGB input.

[Revan654]

This is what I been working on currently:

 

 

My Custom made Video encoder.