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Loop planning, many questions

Torna
4 minutes ago, Torna said:

-SNIP-

The res's that you have selected are res/pump combo units, If you were to get just res units and a pump after that would work also. I would recommend a D5 pump over the DDC ones for silence. 

As for fill drain you can setup a valve at the bottom of your loop/res and attach a short length of tube out of the case for draining. 

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If I did the D5 and the T with the valve on it for the drain...how do I fill if I am laying my tubes on their side?

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1 minute ago, Torna said:

If I did the D5 and the T with the valve on it for the drain...how do I fill if I am laying my tubes on their side?

Well the valve would be closed and you could cap it off temporarily for extra assurance, the drain tube would only be attached to the valve and run out the case when you need to drain/maintance the loop. It would remove extra tubing from the loop when not in use.  

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Well yes.....and I have thought about doing it that way but I am not sure how to get water in the loop if I do it that way with horizontal tube res'.

 

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8 minutes ago, Torna said:

Well yes.....and I have thought about doing it that way but I am not sure how to get water in the loop if I do it that way with horizontal tube res'.

For a horizontal res normally that might be an issue unless it has a side mounted port, the Monsoon modular res system does have side mounted ports for the ends of the res which you could use for filling:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-single-port-end-cap-with-dual-side-ports-black.html

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Be sure to get a D5 Vario instead of the PWM one. The PWM version doesn't run at full speed when the PWM header is disconnected. Which makes bleeding your loop much harder...

CPU: i7-12700KF Grill Plate Edition // MOBO: Asus Z690-PLUS WIFI D4 // RAM: 16GB G.Skill Trident Z 3200MHz CL14 

GPU: MSI GTX 1080 FE // PSU: Corsair RM750i // CASE: Thermaltake Core X71 // BOOT: Samsung Evo 960 500GB

STORAGE: WD PC SN530 512GB + Samsung Evo 860 500GB // COOLING: Full custom loop // DISPLAY: LG 34UC89G-B

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Ok...I'm confused.  How do I use the side ports to fill a horizontal res without spilling?

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2 minutes ago, Torna said:

Ok...I'm confused.  How do I use the side ports to fill a horizontal res without spilling?

It would be like this since theses are endcaps where you can have two ports that face where you could use it to fill the horizontal res:

mmrs-sp-xx-06.jpg

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Two questions......

1. I am getting all these fancy waterblocks....what thermal compound should I get to make them work their best?

2. If I get a second rad....would a 360 instead of a 480 for a second rad make a huge difference?  I am being annoyed that I have one fewer fans than I thought and looking at the money I would save.

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15 minutes ago, Torna said:

Two questions......

1. I am getting all these fancy waterblocks....what thermal compound should I get to make them work their best?

2. If I get a second rad....would a 360 instead of a 480 for a second rad make a huge difference?  I am being annoyed that I have one fewer fans than I thought and looking at the money I would save.

For thermal paste MX-4 is one that I use fairly commonly it's really good, some others excellent options are Thermal Grizzly and IC Diamond. As for rads if you can go for longer rads those tend to perform better than multiple shorter ones jointed together or thicker short rads but with dual 360mm rads for your setup that would be more than adequate. 

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So how does one figure how much coolant they need to buy...?  If this helps....

 

CPU Block

2 x full cover GPU Block

2 x 150mm res'

360mm rad

480mm rad

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So part of the reason I am asking so many questions is my first attempt at water cooling was.....ghetto to say the least...

So I am trying to make up for past failings....and part of that my tubing lines were....horrific.  So how does one have insure happy lines?

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4 minutes ago, Torna said:

So part of the reason I am asking so many questions is my first attempt at water cooling was.....ghetto to say the least...

So I am trying to make up for past failings....and part of that my tubing lines were....horrific.  So how does one have insure happy lines?

For coolant amount usually it's a general estimate more for thicker rads, to give you an idea an Alphacool UT60 360mm rad take ~500mL of fluid to fill, for that loop I would be pretty confident to say 2 L is enough. 

 

For tubing runs most like to keep them as short and direct as possible but personally my preference with soft tubing is to give all my runs a curve or light bend to them. 

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So the problem I had the first time was time was measuring correctly.....last time when I made cuts it always seemed a bit too short and a waste or too long and awkward...then of course I would cut it down and go back to too short.  So how do I fix that horrible cycle?

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2 minutes ago, Torna said:

So the problem I had the first time was time was measuring correctly.....last time when I made cuts it always seemed a bit too short and a waste or too long and awkward...then of course I would cut it down and go back to too short.  So how do I fix that horrible cycle?

Longer is always better than shorter for tubing since you can slowly take more off. It sounds like you were trying to measure out the tube but was basing your measurement approx around the next fitting when doing so which can cause it to be just slightly long or short. You get a hang of it once you cut a few tubes but if you were to take some thin card and cut it into a strip for you to get a measurement of the tubing require between fittings that may possibly help.

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You mean prototype with cardboard basically?

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So I know this is personal thing but do you use angle fittings...?  I have been looking at them though I know it will add more cost to the build.

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So I have had my computer all apart...painting....installing the second 980Ti....prototyping for water cooling.  I want to play with my SLI....but I also want to be good with my components....honestly besides the 980Ti fans it has a dopey CPU cooler (stock....it is adorable) and a 200mm fan in the front...that it.  It is not OCed right now so am I good to play or should I wait for better cooling?

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18 hours ago, Torna said:

So I know this is personal thing but do you use angle fittings...?  I have been looking at them though I know it will add more cost to the build.

Personally I use angled fittings in my build, when I run soft tube I try to always give the tubes a bend or curve to give it some character thank dying to get straight runs. As for overclocking I would wait on the CPU but you can go ahead with GPU testing and gaming once everything is dried. 

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So stupid question...I got a Swiftech MCP655 G1/4 Threaded Special Edition 12 VDC D5 Pump With Speed Controller as part of the first part of loop stuff I got.  I want the housing off.  I swear...the housing is on there like concrete.....any tricks to get it off?

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2 minutes ago, Torna said:

So stupid question...I got a Swiftech MCP655 G1/4 Threaded Special Edition 12 VDC D5 Pump With Speed Controller as part of the first part of loop stuff I got.  I want the housing off.  I swear...the housing is on there like concrete.....any tricks to get it off?

If you want to replace the original with say a pump top it's just  screwed in by the retraining ring, giving it a good forceful turn should do it:

pmp-450-6.jpg?w=614&h=529

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That is about what performance pcs again when I messaged them about it...my hands hurt and I can't seem to get a good grip on it.

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3 minutes ago, Torna said:

That is about what performance pcs again when I messaged them about it...my hands hurt and I can't seem to get a good grip on it.

Try holding it via the stand if yours has one and front piece, it should be able to come off by just turning it by hand, counterclock wise to loosen. I wouldn't really recommend using a pair of channel locks or something but only do that as a last resort and be careful,  put something to wrap around the ring to not damage it. 

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Ow....alright I want to meet the person that screwed this on so I can smack them then get them to unscrew it.

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