Any better sub options?

[Enderman]

The gain you get in the lower frequencies when using it in a small room, such as a car.

Sealed works well in a car because the lower freq rolloff is somewhat compensated by, by the gain.

Please don't put it in a pre fab ported box. Especially the port, but also the enclosure, has to be optimized for the sub driver that will be used.

Can you give some more details on the box you'll be using it with?

Oh I see.

Dont worry about what box im using cause its definitely not going to give any kind of high quality sound

The ported box is for a 15" PA speaker, definitely not for a sub.

 

If you saw what kind of speaker setup I have at school you would understand I'm going for as loud as possible, not for sound quality.

I was debating whether to get two 12s in a box from craigslist or replace the driver on my 15, but buying the single 15" sub for NEW was cheaper than anything on craigslist.

[Lutkeveld]

Using a driver in the wrong box is like ordering caviar and being satisfied when they bring you a burger.

Might as well get the full potential out of something you're paying full price for.

I'd go for two 12" in different locations to reduce room modes/influences.

One 15" will also be very good tho.

[Enderman]

Using a driver in the wrong box is like ordering caviar and being satisfied when they bring you a burger.

Might as well get the full potential out of something you're paying full price for.

I'd go for two 12" in different locations to reduce room modes/influences.

One 15" will also be very good tho.

Yeah I understand, but in this case it was very cheap caviar

Two 12" subs would have cost a lot more, since they would be two separate drivers and two separate boxes.

So I bought the 15" sub and I will see how well it performs, then make a "my ghetto audio setup tour" and post it here Thanks for all the info and suggestions!

[Lutkeveld]

Can you give me more info on the sub you bought and the enclosure you plan on using?

There is a difference between 'not optimal' and 'horrible'. I can check which one it will be by simulating it

[Mush Brain]

I run a Vibe Black Death sub with a Vibe Bass 1 amp, I run it off a 1kw Silverstone Strider, the sub can peak at 9000 watts, and is in a designed enclosure with a huge port, who cares about accuracy when you can bring the dead back to life? Like my own Resident Evil. LOL

http://www.vibeaudio.co.uk/car/blackdeath-subwoofers/

[Lutkeveld]

I run a Vibe Black Death sub with a Vibe Bass 1 amp, I run it off a 1kw Silverstone Strider, the sub can peak at 9000 watts, and is in a designed enclosure with a huge port, who cares about accuracy when you can bring the dead back to life? Like my own Resident Evil. LOL

http://www.vibeaudio.co.uk/car/blackdeath-subwoofers/

 

Common mistake. A sub doesn't output watts, it receives. It's the amp that puts out power, the 9kW is just the thermal/mechanic limit of the driver. In your case the sub peaks at 1kw, although that doesn't say much as you can't hear watts.

[Mush Brain]

Common mistake. A sub doesn't output watts, it receives. It's the amp that puts out power, the 9kW is just the thermal/mechanic limit of the driver. In your case the sub peaks at 1kw, although that doesn't say much as you can't hear watts.

so now you are saying the sub peaks at the PSU's rating??? LOL

[bob345]

I used to be pretty big into spl systems and i can tell you right now that that sub will not give you what you are looking for. That sub isn't much more than a normal pa woofer that has been made to look a bit better. You would be better off buying a normal pa subwoofer as you will get better quality for the price as more engineering would have gone into the actual design of the speaker rather than the ascetics.  Take a look here too, parts express has a really wide range of speakers to choose from. http://www.parts-express.com/

[Mush Brain]

Bass 1

http://shop.vibeaudio.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_62&product_id=68

[Lutkeveld]

so now you are saying the sub peaks at the PSU's rating??? LOL

 

Whoops, misread that. I was trying to say that the subs only 'puts out' as much as the amp is giving it. 

 

 

I used to be pretty big into spl systems and i can tell you right now that that sub will not give you what you are looking for. That sub isn't much more than a normal pa woofer that has been made to look a bit better. You would be better off buying a normal pa subwoofer as you will get better quality for the price as more engineering would have gone into the actual design of the speaker rather than the ascetics.  Take a look here too, parts express has a really wide range of speakers to choose from. http://www.parts-express.com/

 

Normal PA woofers dont have a resonance frequency of 24hz and an Re of 1.67 ohms ..... What makes you believe this is a PA woofer?

[bob345]

Whoops, misread that. I was trying to say that the subs only 'puts out' as much as the amp is giving it. 

 

 

 

Normal PA woofers dont have a resonance frequency of 24hz and an Re of 1.67 ohms ..... What makes you believe this is a PA woofer?

mostly how the sub is structured and the small coil. All you have to do to lower the resonant frequency Is add more mass to the cone of lower the stiffness of the speakers suspension. To be clear, I wasn't stating that they are identical, I was stating that there is not a massive difference between the two. Also, there are pa subwoofers and not only woofers

[mr moose]

so now you are saying the sub peaks at the PSU's rating??? LOL

 

I would just forget about peak ratings, 9 times out of ten they are only printed on the box as a marketing gimmick.

[Lutkeveld]

@bob345 I think that there are huge differences between this one and a normal PA sub driver, anyway, not the point. 

I kind of agree on the performance/dollar ratio on car audio drivers, but they definitely have their uses.

If you have 'unlimited' power, huge room gains and a place for a huge box they're an amazing value.

OP just wants loud and cheap (from what I can see), which is more suited for a MCM, Dayton, TangBand in a tapped horn or reflex.

 

If OP could give his limits and needs (box size, SPL, low end extension, intended use etc), that would be great.

[Enderman]

@bob345 I think that there are huge differences between this one and a normal PA sub driver, anyway, not the point. 

I kind of agree on the performance/dollar ratio on car audio drivers, but they definitely have their uses.

If you have 'unlimited' power, huge room gains and a place for a huge box they're an amazing value.

OP just wants loud and cheap (from what I can see), which is more suited for a MCM, Dayton, TangBand in a tapped horn or reflex.

 

If OP could give his limits and needs (box size, SPL, low end extension, intended use etc), that would be great.

The box I have looks almost identical to this one: (im actually not sure what kind of air channel design it has inside...)

Except the slot vent is a bit more narrow.

 

I avoided getting a PA sub because of the looks, and also the paper cone looks like it would easily be punctured by one of my friends (lol) if they hit it with something.

from what I can tell, car subs are made a lot more durable to handle driving around in a car all the time, and to handle the high excursion thy are subject to.

[Lutkeveld]

The fun thing is: PA subs don't have to make a lot of excursion for high SPL. They can make huge noise with only a couple of mm excursion.

Don't underestimate their strength, they're made with performance in mind instead of looks. 

While they may not look fancy, they're definitely very strong in terms of performance and physical strength.

Can you give the answer on the question in my last post? Then we can help you to choose a driver and enclosure.

[bob345]

The box I have looks almost identical to this one: (im actually not sure what kind of air channel design it has inside...)

Except the slot vent is a bit more narrow.

 

I avoided getting a PA sub because of the looks, and also the paper cone looks like it would easily be punctured by one of my friends (lol) if they hit it with something.

from what I can tell, car subs are made a lot more durable to handle driving around in a car all the time, and to handle the high excursion thy are subject to.

honestly, most cheap car audio stuff is usually junk. If you are set on getting a car audio subwoofer, I would raise your budget a bit, at least if you are sticking with a 15". There are a few decent 12's in your price range though.

[Enderman]

honestly, most cheap car audio stuff is usually junk. If you are set on getting a car audio subwoofer, I would raise your budget a bit, at least if you are sticking with a 15". There are a few decent 12's in your price range though.

Well from the reviews this MTX sub doesnt seem that bad...

It costs $265 here in canada, but only $65 from the US...so I think I got a pretty good deal for a pretty decent sub...

[Enderman]

The fun thing is: PA subs don't have to make a lot of excursion for high SPL. They can make huge noise with only a couple of mm excursion.

Don't underestimate their strength, they're made with performance in mind instead of looks. 

While they may not look fancy, they're definitely very strong in terms of performance and physical strength.

Can you give the answer on the question in my last post? Then we can help you to choose a driver and enclosure.

I did reply to your latest post...did you not see it?

(PS use the quote button when replying)

[Lutkeveld]

You did not reply to my question, only to my post.

 

By the way:

Don't judge a book by its cover

Don't judge a sub by its looks

Judge a book by its story

Judge a woofer by its Thiele Small Parameters 

 

I see no need to use a quote, it only takes up space and you will check the forum anyway.

I often use it if the post is >1 day old, so the poster sees it. Or when it's not the OP replying.

[Enderman]

You did not reply to my question, only to my post.

 

By the way:

Don't judge a book by its cover

Don't judge a sub by its looks

Judge a book by its story

Judge a woofer by its Thiele Small Parameters 

 

I see no need to use a quote, it only takes up space and you will check the forum anyway.

I often use it if the post is >1 day old, so the poster sees it. Or when it's not the OP replying.

Oh ok

Thanks for the help.

 

So just for future reference, what should I look for when searching for a PA sub if I shouldnt be looking at xmax and wattage?

[Lutkeveld]

Specsheet, if you're DIYing: Thiele/Smalle Parameters

You still didn't answer my question ;p Or is there no doubt that you're going for the MTX no matter what?

[Enderman]

Specsheet, if you're DIYing: Thiele/Smalle Parameters

You still didn't answer my question ;p Or is there no doubt that you're going for the MTX no matter what?

Oh I didnt notice you asked a question there...sorry

This is the sub I bought https://www.mtx.com/5515-44-mtx-car-subwoofer

And this is what the enclose looks like because I dont have a product number or brand since I got it for free from craigslist:

If I have any turbulence issues with the sub I can always get someone from the woodshop to build me a better one but first I will try it and see how it performs.

[Lutkeveld]

You already bought it? If you want to go loud that's not the sub you're looking for, but anyway...

 

You can always do that. If you want I can predict it for you.

Then you need to give me: 

-Port dimensions (height,width, length)

-Volume of the remaining airspace in the enclosure

 

The more accurate the numbers, the more accurate the prediction.

Otherwise: happy testing

[Enderman]

You already bought it? If you want to go loud that's not the sub you're looking for, but anyway...

 

You can always do that. If you want I can predict it for you.

Then you need to give me: 

-Port dimensions (height,width, length)

-Volume of the remaining airspace in the enclosure

 

The more accurate the numbers, the more accurate the prediction.

Otherwise: happy testing

I like a balance between something loud enough and something that looks cool Im not trying to make a concert hall

I will have to give the measurements ina  few days when I go back to school, but thanks for your help I learned a lot

[mr moose]

You already bought it? If you want to go loud that's not the sub you're looking for, but anyway...

 

You can always do that. If you want I can predict it for you.

Then you need to give me: 

-Port dimensions (height,width, length)

-Volume of the remaining airspace in the enclosure

 

The more accurate the numbers, the more accurate the prediction.

Otherwise: happy testing

 

What program do you use?