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PBaines

Custom Water Cooled Desk - 56k warning. Lotsa Pictures! *Now with Table of Contents*

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Posted · Original PosterOP

Firstly though, Big thank you to my sponsors

Performance PCS
performancepc-1-rgb.jpg
http://www.performance-pcs.com/

Mayhems Coolant
Aurora_Nebula.gif
http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/
 
 
Computer Lounge
CL-logo-1700600(1).jpg
http://www.computerlounge.co.nz/
 
Table of Contents
Update One Here
Update Two  Here
Update Three Here
Update Four Here
Update FivHere
Update Six Here
Update Seven Here
Update Eight Here
Update Nine Here
Update Ten Here
Update Eleven Here
Update Twelve Here
Update Thirteen Here
Update Fourteen Here


 
So it begins!!

 

 

For those who wish to have a look at the sketchup model for this desk,

 

I have uploaded it to here

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/97695353/desk%20final.skp

 

You can download Sketchup here if you do not have it 

http://www.sketchup.com/download

 
Conceptual design
finaldesk1.png
 
 
 
Here is what the timber looks like. Is native NZ Rimu. Please excuse the end one with the bird poo, that will be sanded off in due course. bloody sparrows in the shed >.<
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Cut some of the pieces to length of 650, after everything has been glued together will refine the length to 600 
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Tools for the job. PVA glue, biscuits. annnd a... Biscuit cutter? (who cares about its real name biscuit cutter sounds cool)
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As you can see, there is some light inbetween the boards, so a nice plane on areas will help close those gaps up
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Some fellow putting the biscuits into their grooves after a nice layers of PVA Glue.
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All clamped up, with some weights on the timber to stop it from setting wonky 
This here is ONE side to the draw unit
 

2012-08-31%2015.00.01.jpg
 
 
Had to take the pieces to school and use the planer to make the edges all smooth, and to take any imperfections out
 

 
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Here are the two horizontal supports for the desk, which the one on the left will be at the front as it has the toe bit on it. Sanded down with lovely wet and dry sandpaper to give it a baby smooth finish 
 

 
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This is what happens once you get a nice plane
 

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drilling out the holes for the dowels to go in, 1mm larger then the dowel so that the glue sets better
 
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Once all holes drilled its time to start gluing them in place, and setting everything up to be cramped together
 

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Now she is cramped, the draw body is setting, and now it is time to make the draws them selves 
 

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Here are the draw fronts cut a little oversize just to be safe, not sanded or thicknessed or anything yet
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My small wee thicknesser working its magic on the draw fronts, boy does this puppy make a mess!!
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currently have two racks installed at the moment, start from the bottom and work your way up. Doing one at a time to make sure everything fits perfectly on the first time!
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These are the draw sides, just some MDF which I will be painting matte black. Think it is somewhere around 12-13mm thick.
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The box of which the draws will be just sitting there for a test fit, have to make sure that it sits on the sliders properly 
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And here are the sides and front/back for the two bottom draws going to school to get everything cut to length properly and use that lovely big planner (note to self, buy one of those big planners as they make life so much easier)
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Bruce one of the pet lambs thought he would come up and see what's up. Was more interested in sticking his head in boxes around the shed though lol
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Since the thicknesser I used at school had a few chips in the blade (GRRR) spent about an hour belt sanding the sides to make all the imperfections go away, belt was a 'used' 120 grit piece
20121019140026.jpg
 
Time to smoothen the sides up and then further make sure there are no ridges because you can certainly feel if there is anything wrong with a certain spot if the rest is smooth! This was I think around a 80 grit on a circular sander
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After happy with the piece of timber, it was time to move to the 240 grit wet/dry. After 5 minutes of nice, slow and steady sanding. I can assure you that there was much pleasure in rubbing my hand around the timber... my GOD it is smooth.
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So this is what it looked like before sanding
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And this is what a few minutes of 240 grit wet/dry does 
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All the pieces have now been sanded down to get rid of all imperfections that I could
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Sam and I discussing what to do next.
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GOOD MAN SAM! That's right, have to have the aluminium rods for the 'files' to sit on
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All cut to length and the ends filed down
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All is well 
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both ends in, and the file fits. Looks like my measuring was correct 
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Sam now bored and reflecting on life as it is 
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Predrilling holes for the sides to be nailed to the Side of the FRONT/BACK
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Both sides done
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Add a line of glue for extra support
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Straightened it up and nailed em all in!
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Now to do the next side 
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Can't forget to add the rails in when putting the other side on!!
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Predrilled the holes and put the nails in ready to smack em along the bottom. 
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Here is the draw unit in some decent light Still have to get the draw front on too.
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Time to screw the rail sliders for the draw on. Firstly I pre drilled the hole with a very small drill bit, just to prevent any cracking of the MDF then in the screw goes!
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Here is the bottom draw front, and after some 360 wet/dry. You can see the shiny'ness, it is so smooth 
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Since I cannot do any more draws till I get some more custom wood, thought I would be useful and get the other sides legs sorted. So found some nice pieces of more Rimu, which will be thicknessed down a bit, and will router the edges too
img5173j.jpg
 
Ran them through the thicknesser, got hit in the face by a few flying chips. Lucky my safety glasses protected my eyes 
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So now both pieces are lovely and square/flat/straight
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Time to clean up the mess made by thicknessing...
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Clamping a bead across the front piece and the draw, to make sure that everything is lined up 
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All lined up, happy with it. Now let us screw it on!
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The final result
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Time to sort out the spacing between each draw, found the right packers.
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Everything has been cut up to length and sanded down for the middle draw unit.
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Let us commence the building!
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Time to get the runners aligned and sorted too...
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Getting the spacing sorted with the new packer, and then clamping and screwing again
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Same as before of how to do the attach the front piece to the box
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Only one left to do!
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Here is my beast and the box of bits
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Time to router the edges of the legs! Here are the two bits that I will be using (note: the big one is for the legs, the small one is for a bevel around the outside of the draws)
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I hadn't used a router before, so got mum to show me how to do it, 
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We were left with a good result, nice smooth. lovely.
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Now time to sand the edges down so that there isn't a "step" from the flat piece to the curve (above pic)
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Routered the edge of the LEFT and RIGHT side of all the draws and the BOTTOM of the bottom draw. 
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Once I finished sanding the saw marks, the curve had kinda disappeared, no problems. Will re-router it again 
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The timber I am using is recycled stuff, so there are a few nail holes here and there. Clever trick, use the saw dust of the rimu that has been collected in the table saw bin and mix with PVA glue to make a nice formula that will fill in the holes, dry hard. and then be the most unnoticeable filler!
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After the pva had dried, this is what we were left with
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The chisel then got it off to a nice smooth finish that will get sanded down, it might not look perfect, but you can notice a hole in a timber from a mile away
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Now it's time to get a piece of wood sorted for the side rail connecting the two legs together
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Might as well get the back runner cut while I am here!
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Posted · Original PosterOP
Had to do a quick check that everything was flush/square, and also the right length before proceeding
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Had to mark some squared lines so I knew where to drill my holes for the dowels.
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Also had to do some measuring for the legs dowel holes too
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And shavings be flying everywhere!
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Time to get Drilling dem leeeegs!!
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After some glue, good to see everything lines up!
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Now let us clamp it together, also making sure that it has still remained square!
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The next day, I opened the shed up.. to find my cat  -_-
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Anywho, after the cat had been vacated to somewhere else. I tacked on the back rimu sheet on. Though it looks a bit 'odd' After everything has been stained it'll look better, and besides. Who sees the back? Note; the other side of it is unstained 
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It is now time to plan everything out and make final adjustments, eg shortening the width of the desk by about 200mm because I will be using the Extended mouse mat by Razer, and want the mat to look "in place" when it is on the keyboard tray, also makes less "dead space" in the lid 
img5434i.jpg
 
 
Here is the big piece of recycled Rimu that will be used for the BOTTOM of the lid, as well as the FRONT too. Lots of room to work with 
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Checking to make sure that everything is the right sizing. Turned out I decided to take (Purposely done) 200mm of the length, so now the main compartment with all the PC goodness will have less 'dead' space in it, Which I guess is a good thing!
IMG_5438.jpg
 
 
The next thing was to router the FRONT, and the two SIDES, leaving the back normal. Though the corner isn't perfect at the moment, it will be sanded in due course to make it look better  The 4 sides will sit on the INSIDE of the round.
img5442e.jpg
 
 
after happy with the lid bottom, it is time to give the top and bottom of the sheet a nice sand with the belt sander to smoothen everything out. The worst thing though was... Just as I was about to finish it all up... I smelt something "odd" thinking nothing of it, CRACKLE AHFUHFA SCBASCB ADSA the bloody thing died on me ahh well, have to buy another one tomorrow, as I really need a belt sander to finish everything else!
But here is what it looks like with the vanish off/on
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Got the two rails sorted, unfortunately there was not another piece long enough for the back. However, if I have the join behind the middle compartment rail, it will be unseen!
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So got all the rails cut to the right length, everything is lined up perfectly!
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So I got my new mouse mat, the keyboard tray will be slightly larger then the mouse mat, just to make it look even better!
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YAY new belt sander!! WOOOO, let's start using it!
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Vanish and graffiti, gone
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And it is out with the biscuiter again..
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The lid will be biscuited together instead of dowel'd, mainly because I find it easier, and there is more play in what I can do with it
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just right 
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Testing the join between the two back pieces since I couldn't find a single piece long enough for the back
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Perfect!
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Now it is time to get the Router and Jigsaw out and get the rad grill cut out sorted for the middle section piece (Note: there will be 2 rad grills on both sides, no fans on this piece). Let's start marking!
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The initial hole for the jigsaw to begin its work!
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The crappy work of a jigsaw, to be perfected with a router 
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Router time!
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So now both sides of that piece of timber have been made 1.5mm larger in vertical and horizontal lengths, and a rebate of 1mm larger than the rad grills, so that they will sit just below flush of the timber 
 
That is all for today, not sure what is next but will certainly find something 
 
 
 
It is time to sort out the exhaust fans for the right side of the desk, and take into perspective the PSU size, as well as my front bits (fan controller, some switches and a Blu-Ray drive)
img5618z.jpg
 
 
Happy with where it was sitting, I started to mark everything up, hoping it would allll be perfect!
As you may tell from the next two pics. The two sides have different measurements. One side is to make the fans sit in a rebate in the wood, and the other is so that the Bitspower 240 Grill will sit FLUSH against the wood. This is where my router becomes very handy
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Time to start the jigsawing here is the first pilot hole. This time wanting to be more precise then the last so will cut a bit slower to contain a straight line. The blade will never run PERFECT which is why again.. The router fixes everything!
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All the pilot holes drilled, and some jig sawing commenced
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Not 100% perfect, but after the router has done it's job it will be!
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Time to start the rebating process. The wood is 20mm thick, so -4mm for the 3mm grill, and then -9mm for the rebate you will be left with 7mm of wood and the fan will be sticking out 18mm which then the fan will be able get screwed using taping 6-32 screws when the time comes
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Going down in small steps at a time, as you can see from the different layers in the top right
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All went perfectly! The fans all sit at the same height in each corner, and fit in there nice and snug, barely needing to use any screws! And no, the propellers do not hit the outside casing so a top result
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And this is how she sits! 
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Note: Every single cable in the desk will be made to a custom length, EVERY SINGLE ONE!
 
 
 
So been a busy series of weeks and haven't been able to do as much as I would have liked 
 
So here is the what I left the desk lid like for about a week, because I didn't have time to work on it 
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So now the lid is together, it is time to start laying things out and check that I have done the correct spacing for everything intended
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The back side of the middle section was screwed together, as it is 10x easier then gluing the two sides together and gives some tolerence if say the side that got glued moved 3mm, to which I screwed the other side knowing that everything is square 
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After a lot of thinking completed of how everything will be done (40 mins worth), It is time to say goodbye for 3 weeks
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After the a week or two, I ordered the first installment of items from an online store which is the Rad Grills, Rads, and the two 3-pin fan hubs that I will be using for each rad and its fans 
 
 
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Thank you so much for the reservoirs! They really do look amazing 
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Since I have the main components, gotta lay them out to see how we are for space. looks like we are dead perfect!
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(Yes the grills do have mesh, but took it out just while measuring everything up)
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Unfortunately that is it for today, though coming soon is the glass top which then leaves me with the easy jobs left when I get it, all that is left to purchase is the amount of fittings which which there are about one hundred coming in... WOOOOOOOOO!
 
Right, it has  been a while. Basically been waiting for my glass to be done, taking it back, yelling at them for doing a shitty job and making them do it with a bit of class instead of giving me some glass that looks like someone has used a rock to sand the edges  
 
 
 
so here we started the big cut out for the small glass front to sit in, followed by a router to make it all square and THEN a rebate so that the glass could be glued onto the recess 
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This was how I routered the rebate for the glass to sit in, aswell a very well put together professional looking base for the router to sit flush on.
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We are left with a perfect recess!
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Now, with my PPCS gear arriving it was time to get my 480 radiator holes sorted out. I got everything measured up and got some low adhesive tap and plopped the rad grill on and traced around it. 
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You sir are a fucking legend! This is the epitome of a build log and yes sir deserve the internets for the day, maybe even two!

 

I can't believe you built your own case from scratch. I am looking forward to your finished build. I will give you 10 internet hugs once you have finished with it.

 

ONWARD MY GOOD MAN!


Join the LinusTechTips Star Citizen Org :D ~ https://robertsspaceindustries.com/orgs/UOLTT

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So.. you have a sheep, a lamb, a dog and a cat! That's awesome..

 

Build is killer too.. 

 

A few points that cam to my mind.. 

1. I would have actually faced the fan controller up, towards the table top. Especially, if it's one with sliders.. Would be very cool to just slid them forward and back..

2. Do you plan on using any soft of sound dampening foam or the like to reduce noise?

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Posted · Original PosterOP

So.. you have a sheep, a lamb, a dog and a cat! That's awesome..

 

Build is killer too.. 

 

A few points that came to my mind.. 

1. I would have actually faced the fan controller up, towards the table top. Especially, if it's one with sliders.. Would be very cool to just slid them forward and back..

2. Do you plan on using any soft of sound dampening foam or the like to reduce noise?

 

1. I am using this fan controller here http://tinyurl.com/bmyoxs9 I personally like it the way it is! And I haven't actually found a nice sliding controller, I like the one with knobs instead.

2. The Radiators will have rubber between it and the wood front.

The fan's will have rubber between the radiator

The Motherboard will be sitting on rubber grommits

The PSU will be sitting on rubber grommits

the Pumps will be on a rubber mat.

 

There are no mechanical drives in the desk so I will mount the SSD's on something non-rubberised!

 

Thanks :)

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1. I am using this fan controller here http://tinyurl.com/bmyoxs9 I personally like it the way it is! And I haven't actually found a nice sliding controller, I like the one with knobs instead.

2. The Radiators will have rubber between it and the wood front.

The fan's will have rubber between the radiator

The Motherboard will be sitting on rubber grommits

The PSU will be sitting on rubber grommits

the Pumps will be on a rubber mat.

 

There are no mechanical drives in the desk so I will mount the SSD's on something non-rubberised!

 

Thanks :)

 

 

Aah well.. that's just a matter of personal preference.. I personally just use motherboard control like Fan Xpert, but if I was to go in for a fan controller, I'd get on with sliders.. they just seem less obtrusive.

 

Something like this - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=34293

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=37257

 

 

Anyway, this is a fantastic build and can't wait to see it finished. I've always wanted to build by self a water cooled desk and hopefully will at some point in the future..

 

I was wondering.. if you have to ever change out components, how will you do that.. by removing the table-top or through that glass panel in the front?

 

I've always had this idea of mounting the motherboard on a sliding rack, like in a drawer or something and having some slack on the cabling and pipes, so the entire mobo can be slid out at any time if I wanted.

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Posted · Original PosterOP

Aah well.. that's just a matter of personal preference.. I personally just use motherboard control like Fan Xpert, but if I was to go in for a fan controller, I'd get on with sliders.. they just seem less obtrusive.

 

Something like this - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=34293

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=37257

 

 

Anyway, this is a fantastic build and can't wait to see it finished. I've always wanted to build by self a water cooled desk and hopefully will at some point in the future..

 

I was wondering.. if you have to ever change out components, how will you do that.. by removing the table-top or through that glass panel in the front?

 

I've always had this idea of mounting the motherboard on a sliding rack, like in a drawer or something and having some slack on the cabling and pipes, so the entire mobo can be slid out at any time if I wanted.

 

Yeah, I used to use the motherboard control too. But want this build to be completely silent so need a fan controller to keep things suuuuper low and quiet, and stay at a constant RPM where a motherboard changes when heat changes.

I saw the Fractal controller on youtube, it's certainly a beast.

 

I will simply lift the top glass piece that will be on there, it is easy enough to lift off :)

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Posted · Original PosterOP

i noticed you dont have a false floor to run cables beneath, are you making custom cable everywhere? Great project btw.

 

 

Yes, Every cable in the build will be custom length, and it will be tidy! (So i HOPE haha)

 

 

Also here is a video of the desk I did a while back too

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I saw this back on the old forum and i have to say i'm absolutely blown away. I've been working a lot on the techniques you've been putting into your desk in design tech at school and i must say, they're bloody difficult to perfect!


export PS1='\[\033[1;30m\]┌╼ \[\033[1;32m\]\u@\h\[\033[1;30m\] ╾╼ \[\033[0;34m\]\w\[\033[0;36m\]\n\[\033[1;30m\]└╼ \[\033[1;37m\]'


"All your threads are belong to /dev/null"


| 80's Terminal Keyboard Conversion | $5 Graphics Card Silence Mod Tutorial | 485KH/s R9 270X | The Smallest Ethernet Cable | Ass Pennies | My Screenfetch |

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Posted · Original PosterOP

I saw this back on the old forum and i have to say i'm absolutely blown away. I've been working a lot on the techniques you've been putting into your desk in design tech at school and i must say, they're bloody difficult to perfect!

 

 

What kind of techniques are these? I'm intrigued    

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What kind of techniques are these? I'm intrigued    

 

Dowels, routing the edges and making table tops with the biscuits. I'm not very good with tools xD


export PS1='\[\033[1;30m\]┌╼ \[\033[1;32m\]\u@\h\[\033[1;30m\] ╾╼ \[\033[0;34m\]\w\[\033[0;36m\]\n\[\033[1;30m\]└╼ \[\033[1;37m\]'


"All your threads are belong to /dev/null"


| 80's Terminal Keyboard Conversion | $5 Graphics Card Silence Mod Tutorial | 485KH/s R9 270X | The Smallest Ethernet Cable | Ass Pennies | My Screenfetch |

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Hello from Auckland :D 

 

I'd like to say awesome desk I hope it goes well. It looks amazing!


Cacti, not cactuses. 

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You sir, are AMAZING!


The first step to insanity is believing in your sanity.

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I started scrolling and saw the images of your woodwork. My first thought "You live in NZ mate?" *Check location* Lol.

Cool stuff dude.

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Posted · Original PosterOP

Freekin amazing. More pictures please.

 

Only because you asked so nicely :)

 

Since the last update I have done the back rail piece, and also the back ledge for which the monitor will sit on for now (Till I get a nice desk mount for it) and to also hid the back I/O cables a bit too.

 

IMG_6086-1.jpg

 

 

 

IMG_6087-2.jpg

 

 

With those made, it was time to sand and vanish! I was initially going to use Danish Oil but had this stuff here which did practically the exact same thing.

IMG_6088-3.jpg

 

 

IMG_6091-4.jpg

 

 

After 4 coats, sanding inbetween with 500grit sand paper on the palm sander (which practically felt like paper) it was all done! And time to start finishing the main construction of the desk and do the drawer  handles. 

IMG_6157-8.jpg

 

 

After a measure up it was time to drill!

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Time to measure the screws out and figure out which segment I have to chop out

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Into the vice, and chopped with a hacksaw!

IMG_6165-12.jpg

 

 

Repeating the process for all and you end up with some lovely draw fronts :)

IMG_6166-13.jpg

 

 

 

One of the last things to tick off the list is the radiator grill holes for attaching the radiator and fans. All went well and everything lines up

IMG_6167-14.jpg

 

 

This is how I will leave the middle section, don't like the mesh grills in the middle. NOTE: The bolts will be cut to length too

IMG_6168-15.jpg

 

Screwed the rad's on temporarily and got the first piece of acrylic tubing on! (Using crysal link adapters)

IMG_6174-16.jpg

 

 

IMG_6178-17.jpg

 

 

Thats it for this update :) Should have a lot of PPCS gear coming soon so keep an eye out!

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