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PC auto shutdown without warning

yozora01x
My pc will auto shut down once my processor hit around 70 degree celcius, is there any way I can fix or disable this? I heard about I can change the max processor temp before the pc shut down but I couldn't find it in the bios
My specs:
Mobo: asrock n68c-gs4 fx (bios version 1.3)
Processor: AMD FX-8320
RAM: 8gb ddr3 1600mhz
GPU: GTX 750ti
CPU cooler: Cooler Master Hyper H411R
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21 minutes ago, yozora01x said:
My pc will auto shut down once my processor hit around 70 degree celcius, is there any way I can fix or disable this? I heard about I can change the max processor temp before the pc shut down but I couldn't find it in the bios
My specs:
Mobo: asrock n68c-gs4 fx (bios version 1.3)
Processor: AMD FX-8320
RAM: 8gb ddr3 1600mhz
GPU: GTX 750ti
CPU cooler: Cooler Master Hyper H411R

Mhh looking into google the max temp of your chip is 70 but it should slow down and only shut down at 80 (newer chips go way hotter) older amds are very strange in terms of temps.

What kind cooler are u using ? There is always a reason for high temps repaste the cpu clean the cooler etc making the temp limit higer does not fix ur temp prob oh i am sry i see what cooler ur using now my bad ^^ did u already repaste/clean it 

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1 minute ago, xhackforeverxdx said:

Mhh looking into google the max temp of your chip is 70 but it should slow down and only shut down at 80 (newer chips go way hotter) older amds are very strange temp in terms of temps.

What kind cooler are u using ? There is always a reason for high temps repaste the cpu clean the cooler etc making the temp limit higer does not fix ur temp prob oh i am sry i see what color ur using now my bad ^^ did u already repaste/clean it 

I had repaste it and cleaned my pc yesterday but the problem is still there

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15 minutes ago, yozora01x said:

I had repaste it and cleaned my pc yesterday but the problem is still there

When did this Problem start seems very strange 

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14 minutes ago, xhackforeverxdx said:

When did this Problem start seems very strange 

It starts a months ago, it doesn't occur when I just installed the new cooler half a year ago

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1 minute ago, yozora01x said:

It starts a months ago, it doesn't occur when I just installed the new cooler half a year ago

Maybe its your mainboard beeing strange and feeding to mutch voltage could u check the vcore 

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You're lucky it even works on that motherboard. The VRM-s are probably overheating.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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12 minutes ago, xhackforeverxdx said:

Maybe its your mainboard beeing strange and feeding to mutch voltage could u check the vcore 

I am not sure which reading you are talking about

15656966994575243094207197021471.jpg

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3 minutes ago, yozora01x said:

I am not sure which reading you are talking about

15656966994575243094207197021471.jpg

I am talking about the core voltage aka v core but 1.32v is pretty normal for that chip u could try to undervolt it and see if it stays stable at like 1.25 v core that would lower the temps a bit but i am still not sure why the chip is even overheating 

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17 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

You're lucky it even works on that motherboard. The VRM-s are probably overheating.

Could overheatings vrms leak voltage so the cpu overheats ? Could be possible or 

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15 minutes ago, xhackforeverxdx said:

I am talking about the core voltage aka v core but 1.32v is pretty normal for that chip u could try to undervolt it and see if it stays stable at like 1.25 v core that would lower the temps a bit but i am still not sure why the chip is even overheating 

May I ask how should I do the undervolt?

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4 hours ago, xhackforeverxdx said:

Could overheatings vrms leak voltage so the cpu overheats ? Could be possible or 

Highly unlikely. But it would cause CPu throttling, cooler missbehaving and shutdowns.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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Could be your PSU, I had a psu that had its fan unplugged (The guy I got it off must have done this), My pc started shutting down randomly but I didnt think much of it, untill one day. it shutdown, I clicked the power button *BANG* a blue flame and smoke...  it had melted one of the capacitors, had to get a new PSU.

 

Edit: nvm didnt read it properly, its when your cpu hits 70*c silly me

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6 hours ago, yozora01x said:
My pc will auto shut down once my processor hit around 70 degree celcius, is there any way I can fix or disable this? I heard about I can change the max processor temp before the pc shut down but I couldn't find it in the bios
My specs:
Mobo: asrock n68c-gs4 fx (bios version 1.3)
Processor: AMD FX-8320
RAM: 8gb ddr3 1600mhz
GPU: GTX 750ti
CPU cooler: Cooler Master Hyper H411R

It's thermal shutdown from an over heating CPU... had it happen a few times on my mums FX6300 when it was in a small case with poor airflow when ever the ambient temps rose (during the summer).

 

I switched the system out to a larger case with more fans, a larger cooler and it never gets above 60ºC now, even when stress tested.

 

So clean out the case, improve airflow and/or fit a better cooler as new thermal paste didn't work.

System 1: Gigabyte Aorus B450 Pro, Ryzen 5 2600X, 32GB Corsair Vengeance 3200mhz, Sapphire 5700XT, 250GB NVME WD Black, 2x Crucial MX5001TB, 2x Seagate 3TB, H115i AIO, Sharkoon BW9000 case with corsair ML fans, EVGA G2 Gold 650W Modular PSU, liteon bluray/dvd/rw.. NO RGB aside from MB and AIO pump. Triple 27" Monitor setup (1x 144hz, 2x 75hz, all freesync/freesync 2)

System 2: Asus M5 MB, AMD FX8350, 16GB DDR3, Sapphire RX580, 30TB of storage, 250GB SSD, Silverstone HTPC chassis, Corsair 550W Modular PSU, Noctua cooler, liteon bluray/dvd/rw, 4K HDR display (Samsung TV)

System 3 & 4: nVidia shield TV (2017 & 2019) Pro with extra 128GB samsung flash drives.

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Your motherboard is rated for a max of a 95W CPU. The 8320 has a TDP of 125W. That CPU is not even on the QVL for that board. So the solution to your problem is a better motherboard with better VRMs, and a QVL which includes the 8320. Not to mention that your CPU cooler is only good for 100 watts. You'll need a better CPU cooler as well.

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A better motherboard and a better cooler ...

 

Take an index finger, put it under the nose, take a deep breath AND get yourself a new platform.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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I had done repasting which helps my processor to cool down more but I realized my windows still shut down even though the temperature is around 56~63c

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5 hours ago, yozora01x said:

I had done repasting which helps my processor to cool down more but I realized my windows still shut down even though the temperature is around 56~63c

Let me repeate myself: Your motherboard is rated for a max of a 95W CPU. The 8320 has a TDP of 125W. That CPU is not even on the QVL for that board. So the solution to your problem is a better motherboard with better VRMs, and a QVL which includes the 8320. Not to mention that your CPU cooler is only good for 100 watts. You'll need a better CPU cooler as well.

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1 hour ago, TempestCatto said:

Let me repeate myself: Your motherboard is rated for a max of a 95W CPU. The 8320 has a TDP of 125W. That CPU is not even on the QVL for that board. So the solution to your problem is a better motherboard with better VRMs, and a QVL which includes the 8320. Not to mention that your CPU cooler is only good for 100 watts. You'll need a better CPU cooler as well.

Or, disable 2 cores in BIOS?

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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1 hour ago, fasauceome said:

Or, disable 2 cores in BIOS?

I suppose thats one way of doing it. But Ive never done it myself. It would still be better to use a motherboard with the proper rating, and better vrms.

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