Husky

Oh my word, it works. So it really seems to have just been a bad Windows driver. Turns out it was about 7 years out of date and wouldn't update so I uninstalled the device and ran the utility downloaded from Realtek's website. iperf gives 2.35Gb both ways and I'm able to copy files to the NAS at full speed. I can't test the other way at the moment presumably due to limitations of my hard drives whereas copying to the NAS goes via the RAM. Hopefully I'll have good news when I put in my new hard drives in a couple of weeks. 

I'm pretty happy with Unraid for my NAS so far. It runs 19 TB of storage and covers my Plex server, Nextcloud instance, random archival storage/backup and a database for my weather station through Dockers.
 
Don't know if it supports home automation and UniFi controller though.

Have a look at MikroTik's official documentation on load-balancing and mangling: https://help.mikrotik.com/docs/display/ROS/Firewall+Marking (you may be interested in examples 2, 3, or 4)
 
Due to you having a CRS (Switch), don't expect very good performance with firewall or mangling operations as the CPU is optimized more for switching applications than firewall applications. But it will still work. You may have to switch to RouterOS on your CRS instead of SwOS, which is very simple.
 
Also beware that "combining" two WAN links into one isn't as simple or straightforward as it may sound - you cannot send packets randomly out both at the same time for a single packet stream as the destination will be very confused as it doesn't expect out-of-order packets coming from two difference sources. So usually the connections or packet streams are all kept together, and separate streams are balanced across the two links. Because of this - you won't usually be able to simply get 500+200 = 700 Mbps download speed because you "combined" them - unless you are downloading multiple streams of data at the same time, then it can work and get you that higher speed.

Then what it's doing is basically defragmenting your drive. If you have 3.5TB and the partition is being shrinked to 4TB anything that was stored further than 4TB has to be moved into the remaining 500GB, the smaller the free space after resizing the more it's likely going to have to move.
 
Yep, not a good idea if you want to get the data.
 
It shouldn't be THAT slow normally but the drive is likely SMR and that makes it atrociously slow.

Yeah that sounds pretty bad - it is probably dead.
 
One last thing you can try to do to confirm is to boot a live USB of Linux. I'd recommend Fedora Linux as it has up-to-date packages and works brilliantly on most hardware. Simply write the ISO to a USB and boot from it - you don't have to install it or anything, just use it live and see if you get a display output, and if you can use the system without it crashing.

You can achieve this with a newer method rather than using /etc/resolv.conf
 
Simply create files in /etc/resolver/ named for example: "example" (sudo nano /etc/resolver/example) with the contents "search example.com". Then it will use those search domains in that folder for ANY connection now, even if that search domain isn't in System Preferences. You can add as many as you want into that folder and it will search them all order until it is able to resolve the DNS name.

Only if the two things being compared are equal in all other aspects. Sure, I could use OpenHfsPlus.efi for Hackintoshing which is FOSS, but HfsPlus.efi is better despite being closed-source and proprietary to Apple.

Sometimes, yes, if the game does not use "hardware cursor". Most well-written games either use hardware cursor or have an option to use it or not, but some older games or those without that functionality may stack acceleration on top of acceleration.
 
This is why it is recommended to disable Windows's mouse acceleration (uncheck "Enhance pointer precision") and set the speed to exactly 6 clicks in the mouse control panel applet. If you need to adjust your mouse speed, you should then rather use the DPI settings on your mouse instead of Windows's settings. This should give you the best compatibility with old and modern games and ensure that your mouse isn't being messed with.

That drive has bad sectors and is therefore probably dying. You should back up your data as soon as possible and replace the drive.
 
The S.M.A.R.T data says that the drive has encountered sectors that it struggled to read, which it then managed to relocate to a special area on the drive that is reserved for situations like this so that those sectors can simply be relocated instead of being lost forever.
 
If the reallocated sector count keeps rising and rising, then it is likely that the drive is on it's way out. If the count stays stable and does not increase, then the drive might still be usable but I would highly recommend replacing it sooner than later.

You can replace it with a drive from any of the major brands. Western Digital (WD), Seagate, Hitachi, Toshiba, etc... they are all great drives. I have had a mix of both WD and Seagate throughout the years and they both worked great. What you read online is mostly heavily biased as some people just get unlucky. I've seen plenty of hate for both WD and Seagate all around the web, when in reality they both make great drives. Just go and pick a drive that is the best value for you.
 
Pro-tip: some newer cheaper drives are using SMR (Shingled magnetic recording) technology, which results in much slower write speeds. You can check the datasheet of the drive you want to purchase to make sure it says either "CMR", "PMR" or "Conventional recording" if you are going to need decent speeds. Otherwise, if it's for storing media and write speed isn't too important to you then you don't have to worry.

That drive has bad sectors and is therefore probably dying. You should back up your data as soon as possible and replace the drive.
 
The S.M.A.R.T data says that the drive has encountered sectors that it struggled to read, which it then managed to relocate to a special area on the drive that is reserved for situations like this so that those sectors can simply be relocated instead of being lost forever.
 
If the reallocated sector count keeps rising and rising, then it is likely that the drive is on it's way out. If the count stays stable and does not increase, then the drive might still be usable but I would highly recommend replacing it sooner than later.

It might be because you've installed windows 10 in Legacy mode and thus cannot boot without Legacy support

Husky thank you for your help, I watched the YouTube link you left and now my computer has a GPT, my settings in the BIOS is UEFI and the windows checker says This PC meets Windows 11 requirements, now backing up again my computer on my 8TB external hard drive before I install windows 11.
 
Once again thank you for your help
 
Kind regards
 
Richard

Your current Windows 10 install is probably installed in Legacy BIOS mode (maybe you installed with CSM enabled). You need to either re-install in UEFI mode, or if you don't want to lose your current data, you can use the MBR2GPT tool from Microsoft and convert your current Windows 10 from Legacy BIOS mode to UEFI mode. Then you can put your motherboard into pure UEFI mode and boot Windows 10, then upgrade to Windows 11.
 
You can follow Microsoft's article here, they explain what you need to do and even have a video guide: https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/deployment/mbr-to-gpt
 
Please note that it is risky to do this as you might lose your partition table and thereby access to your data. You should please make a backup of your files and other data before attempting anything.

Your current Windows 10 install is probably installed in Legacy BIOS mode (maybe you installed with CSM enabled). You need to either re-install in UEFI mode, or if you don't want to lose your current data, you can use the MBR2GPT tool from Microsoft and convert your current Windows 10 from Legacy BIOS mode to UEFI mode. Then you can put your motherboard into pure UEFI mode and boot Windows 10, then upgrade to Windows 11.
 
You can follow Microsoft's article here, they explain what you need to do and even have a video guide: https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/deployment/mbr-to-gpt
 
Please note that it is risky to do this as you might lose your partition table and thereby access to your data. You should please make a backup of your files and other data before attempting anything.

Your current Windows 10 install is probably installed in Legacy BIOS mode (maybe you installed with CSM enabled). You need to either re-install in UEFI mode, or if you don't want to lose your current data, you can use the MBR2GPT tool from Microsoft and convert your current Windows 10 from Legacy BIOS mode to UEFI mode. Then you can put your motherboard into pure UEFI mode and boot Windows 10, then upgrade to Windows 11.
 
You can follow Microsoft's article here, they explain what you need to do and even have a video guide: https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/deployment/mbr-to-gpt
 
Please note that it is risky to do this as you might lose your partition table and thereby access to your data. You should please make a backup of your files and other data before attempting anything.

Your current Windows 10 install is probably installed in Legacy BIOS mode (maybe you installed with CSM enabled). You need to either re-install in UEFI mode, or if you don't want to lose your current data, you can use the MBR2GPT tool from Microsoft and convert your current Windows 10 from Legacy BIOS mode to UEFI mode. Then you can put your motherboard into pure UEFI mode and boot Windows 10, then upgrade to Windows 11.
 
You can follow Microsoft's article here, they explain what you need to do and even have a video guide: https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/deployment/mbr-to-gpt
 
Please note that it is risky to do this as you might lose your partition table and thereby access to your data. You should please make a backup of your files and other data before attempting anything.

The other end the cable is plugged into (router, switch, etc...) has to be capable of 2.5G as well and they have to negotiate 2.5G, otherwise they will negotiate the next lowest speed that they both support.
 
So the device the cable is plugged into must also support 2.5G whether it's a switch or router or whatever, otherwise you will not get that speed negotiated.

The other end the cable is plugged into (router, switch, etc...) has to be capable of 2.5G as well and they have to negotiate 2.5G, otherwise they will negotiate the next lowest speed that they both support.
 
So the device the cable is plugged into must also support 2.5G whether it's a switch or router or whatever, otherwise you will not get that speed negotiated.

CS:GO is highly CPU bound. That CPU might be slightly bottlenecking in the game and causing the stutters. What settings are you playing on? I found that using higher settings in a CPU-bound situation can reduce stuttering as it loads the GPU more and allows the CPU to "breathe" a bit.

It will only amalgamate into the IHS if you lap the underside, nickel is a decent barrier for liquid metal. 

Knowing the thermal paste would be good, but generally this should not happen. Perhaps the mounting pressure is too low. Photos of your application process may be helpful too, With direct die you should cover the entire surface of the die and not just a dot/line.
 
You should not need to lap to reap the benefits of a stable delid.

If it is running fine then you have nothing to worry about. The light staying is probably just due to a bug in the UEFI or something. You could test if it stays off if you disable Windows Fast Startup (under Control Panel > Power Options > Change what the power buttons do).

Lets hear it.

So I'm upgrading from an ssd to a higher capacity hard drive, I know that seems nonsenical considering how slow hard drives are but I think that a hard drive will feel faster depending on the OS's UI complexity, I use xubuntu and i noticed that it loads faster from dvd than normal ubuntu, so if this applies with hard drives then it might not be very slow, I'll report back my findings.