dani.petro

Although I play only two games which are Apex and BF1, both of which seem to be Cpu intensive.

firstly yes, thats the best way to lower voltages and temps on zen architecture the easiest (if that makes sense)
 
And 85 is perfectly fine to boot, but less heat dump into a room is always nice regardless

It's possible.

Also, when you set CPU voltage to "Normal" at what voltage is the setting showing once set that way without the voltage offset?

What it's manually set for or just where it is with "Normal" related to CPU voltage will determine what actual voltage is going to the chip when offset is applied because that actual voltage value to the chip "Per offset" is based on this base value.

If you have CPU voltage set for 1.200v's manually and then you apply your offset value of -0.096v's, you get 1.104v's to the chip and that's what you'll get when all that is applied and used.
Of course it won't be "Spot on" that value but it will be very close.
If you set CPU voltage manually to, for example 1.25v's and apply the same offset value (-0.096), you get 1.154v's instead. If changing your offset value to, let's say -0.035v's with 1.25v's set manually as CPU voltage, you'd get 1.215v's from that. With 1.20v's set manually with that amount of offset (-0.035v's) you'd get 1.165v's.

BTW the same offset effect is seen if using a + offset value,  It works in the same way to the same extent determined by the base voltage value set for the chip.

Once more thing - Setting CPU voltage (Base value) manually basically eliminates the need for using offset anyway and you can just set it manually, see what happens and then forget it once you're happy with it.

So yeah, it's possible with the values you're using for offset from the looks of it, depending on what the CPU voltage base value really is as you have it right now.

-25 all cores is too agressive, 5600x isn't top silicon, it crashes my 5900x too
Spot which 2 cores are your best ones, put them at -15 and you should be fine, with others at -25 or even -30 on 2 worst ones
 

so -25 might just be too much
-25 is quite a big jump
 
i think -30 is actually roughly the cap
 
try -20, if that does work -18/-15 or something

(anyone with some skills, can create e-mail with any domain as sender, technologies as DKIM, SP can do some protection for spoofing)
 
better take "ffmpeg" and resize your video to "under 10Mb" size by yourself and send it by mail to "Amazon Warranty department"
 

The simple answer is that they've made an error while linking to the website. 

RMA with Corsair, if they accept the warranty (seller said it's only 2 years old so you should be just fine,) is great. Odds are if the PSU can't be fixed they'll just ship you another one.

RMA for a brand new PSU for 10 bucks.  Bargain!

Then you have absolutely nothing to worry about, this is normal

If they're not coming loose or shaking, and give the proper electricity, then it's fine. That's probably just margin of error with cables and slots, you don't have to worry about it unless it just comes off randomly or is shaky.

If i recall correctly, hydrogen peroxide is mildly bleaching.

I would try using vinegar to clean them. It would also help to dry them with paper towel after using them so that mold cannot grow on them.

Hydrogen Peroxide

So wiping it with the above said spirit won't cause any issues I guess?
Should I wipe with a very very thin film of mineral oil?

Got hold of some plugs. Will be using them.
Thanks all for your valuable responses.

Actually its quite dusty in my area so thought of giving the ports atleast some protection.
Don't think it will be much effective against moisture but still will keep on for dust protection.
Thanks for the prompt response

Got hold of some plugs. Will be using them.
Thanks all for your valuable responses.

sure, just dont forget to take off the tape before u try to insert anything to prevent pushing the tape in and causing issues
 
though tbh, you probably dont have to do that

There are no PSUs that aren't rated for 220V, however there are PSUs that rated ONLY for 220V but they're not sold in US and Antec EAG Gold isn't one of them.
As of OP's question, well it depends on how loud the buzz is, if it's very loud, even at idle i'd think that there's something wrong either with the PSU (maybe it isn't a coil whine but failed fan bearing or they've forgot to put a putty on conductors inside at the factory) or your mains (high electrical noise).

I understand this, but the brands I mentioned are very reliable brands, but Samsung is not a very reputable brand when it comes to ram. I would personally go with the brands I listed. 

Thicker copper traces and internal planes to carry voltages around the board. 1oz is around 1.4 mil (35 micrometers) of height, 2z is... more, duh.
 
More copper reduces the voltage drop over long distances, due to the resistance of traces.
The extra copper can also help to spread the heat, basically make the internal copper layers and copper fills behave like heat spreaders / heat sinks, helping with the vrm cooling on the motherboard. 
 
It can also help in some cases in combination with circuit boards that use a different type of fiber weaving, to reduce water ingress, in countries with high humidity... thinner traces will corrode faster.

I keep my pc in a closed room with Air Conditioner and I also keep silica gel packets inside the case.
Never had issues with other pc components apart from the psu fan grills and pc case side panels rusting slightly near the mounting and rivet points.

Why not just get new screws? If you're in the US, you can get a set for $15 or so with hundreds of screws in it.
 
It's also worth pointing out that if your screw heads are rusting, other components in your system are being damaged as well. Do you live right near the ocean, by chance? Salty sea air is hell on electronics.

Depends on the metal composition, short wipes should be fine. Long term, you can't use acetone as it evaporates. For rust proofing, you can use some a zinc paste or spray which. 2 to 3 coatings and then use a metal paint, I use hammerite high temp color (more resilient) but pretty much any metal color is fine. Make sure to use 3 to 4 coatings here and seal it off with some clear coat. But check what it says on the label, some colors need to be primed first, which is great for long term outdoor use, but only that. Most spray cans can be directly applied.
 
As for cleaning in general, use Isopropyl alcohol at about 72 % or higher for cleaning your parts. My go to for nasty stains and polishing in general is the good old Autosol paste. It makes old pc cases super shiny, especially on the inside and it stays that way as well. Also great for screw drivers, helmet visors, etc.
I would not recommend Acetone. Also do not ever use chlorine based products, those will cause stainless steel to rust.
Cleaning glass with Acetone on the other hand is fine. Though keep in mind that it's pretty bad for your health when exposed to.