Mateyyy

9 hours ago, PSU Daniel said:

If there's some error or recommendation, please say it 

it

7 minutes ago, YoungBlade said:

My understanding is that the 5800X uses a lower binned 5950X CCD and that the 5900X uses 2 CCDs with 1-2 failed cores each, but that those CCDs are better binned than the ones used for the 5600X.

 

To me, that implies that the 5900X actually has worse silicon than the 5800X, because it is made of chiplets with failed cores. But the 5900X is binned over the 5600X, so maybe the surviving cores are better.

I think you're looking a little too far into it. 

The 5800X has its 8 cores packed much more close together than the 5900X's 12 cores, making its thermal density higher and thus making the heat transfer between the CPU and the CPU cooler less efficient - so basically, your first hypothesis.

I doubt there's much in the way of 'binning' being done with these chips, both because they're just regular, mainstream parts, and because it wouldn't really be practical considering the ongoing semiconductor shortage.

No.

If you can afford a 5950X, then surely you can afford at least a half-decent motherboard.

It's because, with most memory kits, they won't always be using one particular die.

3200 CL16 kits are the clearest example of this, since pretty much any die under the sun will run those speeds, so if you were to buy several 3200 CL16 Vengeance LPX kits for instance, even right now you'd probably see various different ICs used in them (possibly including reject Samsung B-die even).

No, stay on Windows 10.

Did you just press the CPU block slightly onto the CPU, or is that after you properly mounted and screwed it into place? The thermal paste should spread all across the IHS.

Yes, you can use a Ryzen 3600 with that board, provided you're running a BIOS revision that supports Ryzen 3000.

Looking at Asrock's website, it looks like the earliest BIOS version that'll support a 3600 is 5.90, here:

https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/A320M-HDV/index.asp#BIOS

If you're already running 5.90 or a newer BIOS version, then you can just throw a 3600 right in. Otherwise, you will need to update it first.

You could throw more cooling onto the card, but that isn't going to change the fact that your ambient temps are super high.

I would primarily focus on just minimising the amount of heat the GPU itself is putting out, by way of undervolting.

Here's a quick guide that should make things pretty simple:

If, for some reason, you're opposed to the idea of undervolting (as you kind of seem to be going by how you mentioned it in the original post, and the fact that you're glossing over other people suggesting it..?), then I would just leave it as is. Sure, 88C is hot, but it should still technically be within safe figures. Just try and not look at that temperature indicator too often if you're that sensitive.

No. The 32GB kit is certainly the better deal here.

31 minutes ago, tikker said:

Is there a way to fix this in post to make software think they are the same? For example cropping the bigger one or something.

That obviously depends on the software you're using, though I reckon cropping the larger image to the exact size of the smaller one should do the trick.

Did you shoot one photo through the viewfinder, and the other using live view?

Go into your camera's settings and make sure the aspect ratio is set to 3:2 (I'm guessing it's set to 16:9 right now).

https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/his-rx-570-iceq-x2-oc.b4476

Note: It's important to note that I wouldn't really consider this as being a review, per se. I'm not well enough versed when it comes to the world of audio to be able to provide a detailed analysis of things like frequency response, imaging, etc. and to directly compare them to other products on the market. This is more about my impressions and what I think of these headphones just as a regular user, so if you're okay with that, let's proceed.

The HE400se is HIFIMAN's latest addition to their planar magnetic headphone lineup, and also their most affordable, coming in at $149. I managed to get them for around €170 here in Europe.

They're not cheap by any means, but that doesn't mean that they can't be a great value, depending on how many of HIFIMAN's more expensive yet very well regarded products' qualities have been brought down over to them.

HIFIMAN seems to put a lot of care into the packaging for their products, though obviously some things had to be cut down a little with the HE400se to meet the targeted price point. Things are very simple here, with the headphones only being accompanied by a cable, a 3.5mm to 1/4" adapter and some paperwork.

Speaking of cutting down… that cable. It’s just plain horrible. It’s microphonic, looks cheap and is an absolute nightmare when it comes to tangling.

I would really just consider getting a custom cable to go with these headphones from the get-go. Granted this does kind of go against the “value” aspect of the HE400se, but I feel it’s worth spending the extra bit of money for a much better overall experience. I went with a 2.5mm balanced cable from Meze Audio, which I then paired with a 2.5mm to 4.4mm adapter to plug into my iFi ZEN DAC.

The headphones feel good in terms of their build quality, with good quality plastics, a metal frame and very soft faux leather and fabric. They're quite comfortable over long listening sessions. I'd say they're pretty similar to my old Beyerdynamic Custom One Pros in that aspect.

Obviously the most important thing when it comes to headphones is the sound, and I’ve got to say that I’m impressed. Whatever I throw at them, they deliver a very punchy yet detailed sound, without ever going overboard on anything. The bass is satisfying but controlled, mids are very clear giving a great reproduction of vocals, and highs sound smooth and bright enough without ever being jarring/piercing to my ears. They also have a great soundstage, though the downside of this is that the sound leakage and isolation performance is very poor, because of the planar drivers and open design.

To end this off, I feel like I really got my money’s worth with the HE400se, offering me an excellent listening experience through and through.

I just have to say though that if you’re looking to buy these, I wouldn’t just look at the price of the headphones themselves. Sure, they might be a great value on paper, but you’ll ideally want to add a replacement cable and an amplifier to the cost to get the most out of them, since as I’ve said previously the stock cable is trash and they’re also not exactly the easiest things to power (I definitely wouldn’t recommend them if all you’re looking for is a pair of headphones to plug into your phone).

450W is plenty for your i5 and 1660Ti, it's just that the CV450 is a very mediocre PSU. Ideally I'd get something a little higher quality, like Corsair's CX and CX-F models.

In the meantime however, your PSU should be able to power your components without problems, if I had to guess. If something was to go wrong however, the CV450 should have all the necessary protections in place to prevent any damage from occurring to your components.

FC660C owner here - there's a very slight "click" sound on the down arrow key on my board, if I press it specifically in the top right. It's not quite as high-pitched as what you're experiencing, however.

Other than that, none of the keys exhibit this "clicking" sound.

Well, if we're talking strictly gaming, the 5600X will do pretty much the exact same thing as the 5900X... and similarly the 6900XT will be about as fast as a 6800XT/3080, unless you've got both GPUs running side by side and you're constantly staring at the FPS counters.

Then again, if you just plan on playing Minecraft at 1080p, you might not need neither a 5600X nor a 3080/6800XT. Therefore, if you could tell us what games you plan on playing and at what resolution/settings, as well as what other components you plan on using, it would be very helpful.

16 minutes ago, PobloPomodoro said:

Thank you for the response, I also searched for the the dark rock 4 and it seemed a good option.
My case is a NZXT H510, Is that bad for airflow? For what I know it ain't that good, so would you recommend me to get a better case? I don't really need that much cooling (In reality I need it but I can compromise some degrees), what I want is a quiet cooler

The H510 is really poor in terms of airflow, mainly because of its very restrictive front panel. Depending on what other components you are using however (particularly the GPU), it shouldn't be that big of a problem.

If all you want is something quiet for your CPU, then the Dark Rock 4 should be a great option and alternative to the NH-U12S. 

I mean, the U12A is the stronger performer cooling-wise, but even something like an U9S would work perfectly fine. We're talking about a ~60-70W chip here, it really doesn't put out that much heat. 

So either would work fine. I'd just make sure that you get a case that has good airflow, instead of focusing strictly on getting the biggest heatsink possible for the your 3600.

There are also cheaper alternatives you could go with, other than Noctua's offerings, like Arctic's Freezer 34 and be quiet's Pure Rock 2 (and sometimes even be quiet's Dark Rock coolers can be had for cheaper than their Noctua alternatives, like the Dark Rock 4 or Dark Rock Slim).

I'd go for the 3600 CL16 kit, unless the 4000 one is somehow cheaper.

4000 CL17 isn't really that much better than 3600 CL16 in terms of latency, and your CPU most likely won't be able to hit 2000MHz on the FCLK, which would drop performance drastically or would require you to downclock the RAM.

26 minutes ago, SorryClaire said:

10400F have a way better performance than the 3000 series, i wouldnt go for that path unless its heavily discounted.

Well, there are several factors that come into play. I'd say that for gaming, under ideal conditions, a 10600K and maybe even a 10400 would be faster than a 3600.

In this case however, since the i5 would be limited to 2666MHz memory, I'd say it's at best in the same ballpark as a 3600.

18 minutes ago, Curesto said:

Thanks for the answer. B560 boards are way more expensive than B460 boards in my country.

 

Also, 10400F is way cheaper than the both. I'm also thinking about the 10400F too.

If you do end up going with a B460 board, then the 10400F would also be a decent choice. In fact, it really shouldn't be too far off a 10600K in the real world.

How are the AMD alternatives priced for you locally, compared to Intel? As in B450/A520 chipset motherboards, and the Ryzen 3600?

B460 boards don't natively support Rocket Lake-S CPUs, so you would have to go with the 10600K, between the two.

Ideally I'd get a Z490/B560 board which allows higher memory speeds (you'll be limited to 2666MHz with the 10600K on B460), or just go with something like a Ryzen 3600 and a cheap A520/B450/B550 board, but if you already own that motherboard and can't return/sell it, the 10600K should work fine depending on what you plan on doing.

A good 550W/650W PSU will power a 5600X and 3060Ti without any problems, so the Straight Power 11 650W should work just fine.

Also, are you set on those other components? Namely that board is super overpriced for what it is, and you could make better use of that money in the storage department.

For monitors, I use either a wool duster or a microfibre cloth with a tiny bit of water, depending on whether there's only a bit of dust or there's actual marks on the displays.

For desk mats, I use water, powdered detergent and a sponge. Most of the time I'll just use a lint roller to take most of the dust off it though.

6 minutes ago, medyobano said:

Not planning on doing any sorts of overclocking. So besides overclocking, my mobo would be good to use for the 3600?

Yes, it should work fine with a 3600.

As mentioned previously, make sure you update the BIOS to a recent enough version beforehand, if you haven't already.

Your PSU shouldn't have any problems powering an RTX 3080 and 5800X, so I would suggest troubleshooting other components first, before concluding that the PSU is faulty.

Have you tried running any stability tests for the CPU/RAM (Linpack Xtreme, Prime95, MemTest, etc.)?

Have you tried disabling XMP/DOCP (assuming you had enabled it prior)?

Have you checked temperatures for the CPU and other components, using HWiNFO64?