Shutset

Thankfully, I managed to loosen them with a pair of pliers then took them off with my fingers.
Thanks.

Try holding your phone physically further away from the thing you're taking a photo of, and pinch-zooming in if you want it to fill the frame.
 
Looks like you can get it with pliers, a socket, or a small wrench.

Lately, I've come across a site that sells faraday clothes that supposedly block wireless signals to protect your body, similar to signal blocking pouches for your phones and other devices.
While I'm very keen to buy some items from them, I reigning myself in to investigate whether or not they work and how their customer support is.
https://getlambs.com/
 
So I thought I'd ask if anyone here on LTT has bought from Lambs and tried their wares and see what they  can tell me about it.
Thanks.

Copper is better than aluminum. However you'll probably find a wider variety of sizes in aluminum. Aluminum will also be cheaper. Either will work fine. 
 
Thermal glue will not conduct as well as being solid metal. Not to mention it would be hard to fully fill the heat pipe. It would be likely you would still be left with air bubbles / air gaps. 

Well it would better if it were solid.  Obviously that is not a functioning heat pipe any more so it's just air which will not transfer heat efficiently.
 
This is why I was thinking you could find a properly sized universal heatsink.

Just dunk the thing in water thatll get rid of any particles though youll prob have to wait abit for it to fully dry even after shoving it in a tissue

Thank you so much, guys!

MUCH better!
 
The SM2259 is the controller, the two Transcend chips are your NAND flash, and the K4B4G16 chip appears to be DDR3 DRAM.

wow those are remarkably better

https://www.siliconmotion.com/download/q/a/SM2259_XT_PB_EN_201910.pdf

Hi. I just took new photos with a much better camera and replaced the old ones on my first post.

Tips for macro photography:
- place your phone/camera on a solid stable surface and align the shot
- use the camera timer feature to delay the activation of the camera shutter so that you aren't physically touching and moving the camera/phone when the picture is taken

Seeing as you cannot read any of the writing on the chips with those pictures, kinda hard to tell.

I didn’t realize you needed them for a laptop until after I posted.. sorry 🙂

I just checked those. They're way too big to put into a laptop with those big radiators on top!

I wouldn't be so quick to jump on the WIn11 train just yet. I've seen enough posts from people seeking help with issues with it and so forth that I personally wouldn't risk running such a dumpster fire on a calculator. It's not like Microsloth has gotten anything right the first, second, third, or fourteen-thousandth time since the days of XP.

I personally wouldn't switch to Windows 11 at all, assuming you care about privacy and being rid of bloatware.
Ever heard of the Windows 10 Amelioration project? Linus Tech Tips covered this on their Youtube channel.

Yes… the laptop wouldn’t actually be “doing” anything. The server your connected to is doing all the “work”, it’s just streaming a display to your laptop, think Netflix or Amazon video streaming but you can interact with it instead of just receiving pre-recorded video. Or better yet, think of google stadia or any of the remote game subscription services. 
 
For gaming though, look into parsec - it’s designed specifically for remote gaming and remote CAD work. 

Remoting in doesn't require many resources, the most intensive part is normally decompressing the feed from the machine you are connecting too. SSH, Remote desktop, and VPN software is easy to run. I often will connect from my phone to one of my machines, I even do this at work when I'm on site. I have a surface pro that I can connect to either my desktop or my render machine to process data. The i7 in my surface is pretty much always at idle even when sending a couple hundred gigs of data back to the server. The biggest thing I would consider with your setup is going to be your connection speed. I run into this on site where I may be able to remote in but sending files is out of the question until I get back to the hotel.

I used to use a 2gb chromebook to access remote servers with 100gb of ram and 16 cores, it's totally doable.
 
Take a look into some VPN options such as tailscale, then you can easily access your remote stuff through ssh. If you also want a display, have a look at vnc or other similar stuff.

Then just don't fill it up past 80%, it won't matter much, if it's just empty space on partition, or unformatted space beside the formatted partitions. 
Today good SSD have strong error correction algorithms, good wear leveling, and some have data refresh function to refresh the old data, before it's gone...
Just don't leave your SSD without power for months (especially somwere hot), don't cool the NAND when its operating, and don't buy cheap QLC or TLC drives.  Buy good TLC, or MLC SSD, or optane     

Just have good PSU with low ripple, it's rather hard to kill the NAND in good TLC SSD. It's more likely that the controller will just die.
do you have lots of writes to the SSD?    
If it's important server, that just have RAID 1 from the identical SSD. 

Can you try to just repaste and clean the heatsink thoroughly? 

What did you use to create your usb drive? If you used Rufus, did you select DD Mode and UEFI Mode? For simplicity, I usually recommend Etcher.
Is Secure Boot Enabled? Very few Distro's ship with a signed Shim for Secure Boot, I believe Ubuntu is one of them. For most distros, Secure Boot will need to be disabled.
If Windows was installed with Secure Boot Enabled however, disabling Secure Boot may make it unbootable. I have heard mixed responses regarding this.

Bad idea. Problem is that the pads don't flatten our or squish out making optimal conductivity. In a laptop it would be worse honestly, than better. 

But the various bootloaders used with Linux do detect Windows boot manager, Win/Linux dual boot has literally never been a problem. 
 
To the original question system76 even have a guide to install Windows so that's fine of course.
http://support.system76.com/articles/dual-booting/

since the laptops contains hardware that any other gaming laptop can, I don't think youll have to worry about that at all, alltho you won't be able to configure the laptop firmware on windows, that's all (unless system76 makes a windows program for it) (this also applies to desktop ones assuming they finally have the open source firmware now)