thenicktg

There really is no need to upgrade then. A 1700 doesn't hold back the 6600. Sure it won't get like 400fps in cs:go for example (because it's single core performance is just less than that of lets say a 12900k obviously :p) but it won't hold back the card and is still an easy 100fps+ gaming cpu in almost any game (that isn't held back by the gpu).

If you really want to upgrade I think you should stick to a higher core count than a R5 5600G/5600G since you do video editing and also stream.
An Ryzen 7 5700G would be my choice for your budget (I only took a look on mindfactory.de for prices tho).
 
You can also wait for AM5, but you are gonna need to switch platforms for the upgrade. It's up to you, If your current CPU gives you the performance you need then you should wait.

If your peripherals still work, you don't have any big problems with them (don't like the weight of the mouse, not a fan of the switch type of the keyboard, etc.), and there aren't any features on the new ones that you want (wireless, better RGB, analog key switches, etc.) then there really isn't a need to upgrade them. Run them into the ground. I've got keyboards that are ~10 years old and still going strong. If you do want new features or they're starting to annoy you, then sure you can upgrade, but don't feel like you need to. 

I wouldn't change the motherboard, there is no point to it. 
 
You're concerned because the RX 6600 is a Gen 4 card and you'll be leaving performance on the table with a Gen 3 PCIe slot. The problem is, even if it did make a difference, you're planning on getting a 5600G for the CPU. The 5600G doesn't support Gen 4. It genuinely wouldn't make a difference. 
 
Personally, I wouldn't even upgrade the CPU. The R7 1700 is a pretty good CPU even today, and would still pair nicely with the RX 6600

If you're going to change the board, might as well get say, the i5-12400/12400F + B660 DDR4 motherboard. Ryzen 5000 series are really not cheap so if you're replacing the board, might as well get a platform with longer future.
 
it will run x8 due to the halved interface, but it's still fine

That's what I think I should do too. But the thing is that I am not playing each and every AAA title that comes out. I bought the 3060ti in order to replace my 5 y.o 1060 3gb and to play a few games that I wasn't able to play before like HorizonZDawn maybe Cyberpunk2077 if it's playable after all these patches,Genshin Impact , GTA V and a few others. To be honest the 1700 has done a good job so far because I'm also editing videos and photos because of my job and it does a fair job. Sooo I think I should wait first. Thanks for the help. 😊

If we take a 3.5" WD Black drive (https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIADP08TS0138) vs. a 2.5" WD Black drive (https://www.amazon.com/Black-500GB-Performance-Mobile-Drive/dp/B00QFXOL5G/)
3.5" Drive: 0.6A * 5V + 0.45A * 12V = 8.4W 2.5" Drive: 0.58A * 5V = 2.9W This is obviously not representative of every drive.

short answer : typically 5-8w on average... if you want to be super safe, assume up to 10w for mechanical drives.
A 2.5" mechanical drive will consume a bit less, because the discs inside are smaller and lighter, so the motor doesn't need as much oomph, torque, to keep the discs spinning. So a mechanical 2.5" drive will typically consume less than ~ 4-5 watts.
 
A SSD will consume much less on average while reading data from the SSD, let's say 1-2 watts, but for those few milliseconds at a time it writes data to flash memory, it can use up to 5-10 watts.
 
long answer:
 
Look at the label on the drive.
 
A mechanical drive will consume power to keep the motor spinning and for the circuit board. A 3.5" drive will typically use 12v for the motor and 5v for the circuit board. A 2.5" drive will typically use only 5v, for both motor and circuit board.
The hard drive label will tell you the maximum power consumption and from which voltages that power is taken.
For example, see the hard drive label below :
 
You can see there on the right side of the label by the QR code, it says :
 
5vDC : 0.6A
12vDC : 0.45A
 
Volts x Current (A) = Power (watts)
 
This tells you the hard drive will consume a MAXIMUM of   5w x 0.6a + 12v x 0.45a = 3w + 5.4w = 8.4 watts
 
This is important to keep in mind because computer power supplies can provide a limited amount of current on each voltage.
For example, a 500w power supply may output 400w on 12v (~33A), but only up to 15A (5v x 15A = 75w) and around 50w on 3.3v
 
So if you reserve a budget of 10A out of those 15A on 5v for hard drives, you can only install 10A / 0.6A = 16 hard drives in the computer, even though the power supply can provide 400w on 12v and that would allow you to install ( 33A / 0.45A = ~ 70 hard drives)
 
 

 
 
M.2 SSDs are powered using 3.3v ... you will often see numbers like 3.3v 3A on them .. which is 10 watts. Like I said, reading data from SSD is very easy and consumes little power, like less than 1w, but when you're actually writing data into a SSD, the process of writing bytes into the memory chips consumes a bit of energy.
 

Yep. But like @LukeSavenije said, no need for that wattage in the first place. My overclocked X58 Xeon (when I'm pumping 1.4-1.45v through it, consumption is much lower now that I have it at 4.2Ghz/1.306v) and Gaming X 1080 Ti will pull 550W when under the highest synthetic load I could give it, in gaming usage was around 450-500W. Measured using my RM1000i, which is overkill but I have and plan to get more power hungry hardware. 

those are good and are internally not that different, but i would choose the rmx because it's a bit newer, but you don't really need 750 watts, you're better off spending less and investing it into your system (or just snakcs)
 
country?

well if it doesnt cost that much more i would recommend going with the 750i since you can view power consumption through corsair's program

then you really don't need that much. i run my 1070 ti overclocked on 550 watts. on 750 i can run a 9900k with a 2080 ti and still have headroom
 
something like a pure pwer 11. supernova g2, rmx, focus, formula, whisper and many more
 
look into the psu tier list down my signature, and select at least a tier c, then you'll be fine

650? with like 250 watts use
 
math is easy in that case...

I'd check out the season focus series as well. 650w should be optimal for reaching peak efficiency i think maths is hard.

Not if it's an OEM key.

Ok katalaba na se kala.:D

ne akrivos tha mini ena pu den tha se afini ekino

getting better quality/higher efficiency PSU.
 
Wattage is the least important thing about a PSU, for a normal Single GPU/CPU Mobile/Desktop system, 450-550W is sufficient.
 
For what?!
You don't need that.
Look at that box:

 
specified for 100% load in 24/7 operation at high ambient temperature (40-50°C)...
 
You don't need those "200W headroom" no more.
That made sense 20 years ago but not today!

You don't need 650W. That is the most bullshit and useless wattage in 9 out of 10 cases. Only with Ultra High end GPUs and HEDT system + heavy sledgehammer overclocking you can think about those...
 
If you don't have a HEDT system, 450-550W is fine.
So you can save a bit money here and go for better ones.
 
 
Since you mentioned Euros, here some alternatives:
Bitfenix Whisper M, 450 or 550W
be quiet Straight Power 11, 450 or 550W
 
Silverstone Strider Platinum, 550W.

Ok thanks ;D

Oh ok i got you thx

No problems there, though you might want to adjust your fan curve for better thermal performance. Turning off V-sync simply allows the GPU to render every frame the CPU can send it, so it'll run a lot hotter because it's doing a lot more work.

There's no issue here. You turn off the frame limiter, the GPU works harder to push more frames.

Definitely. I reckon you'll get at least 3 or 4 years out of it, if not more

Dont buy because of the brand name. These are business people, willing to do anything legal to make money, without concern to morals.
 
https://www.hardwareinsights.com/corsair-vs450-review/4/
 
Corsair isnt the producer of any power supply, they just handle their design to other OEMs and let them fill in the gaps on which exact component to use. That's why some are good (like RMx, TXM), while some are shit (VS, old green label CX). Same goes to other names like Thermaltake (Tt), Cooler Master and so on. There are also brands which take others design, swap the exterior, and boom they get a new product, like EVGA, which also leads to some PSUs being crap while some being great. For these names, their PSUs need individual reviews.
 
Here's more info for this
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supply-oem-manufacturer,2913.html
 
If looking up to every PSU is tiring, check out the PSU tier list here on the forums.