Wyndmere

My Ryzen 5 1600 does 3.8Ghz on auto voltage. Not sure if that's different from stock, but first-gen Ryzen doesn't overclock particularly well from what I've been able to find.
 
Silicon lottery obviously plays a huge part in that, but it seems the line as a whole had issues.
Also running the stock cooler.
 
Worth noting that I'm completely unstable past 3.8Ghz unless I really up the voltage, which I don't feel comfortable doing(have to dip into 1.4v).

You will change your clocks after the 3rd time you randomly get a reboot during an online match or lose progress in that SP campaign you were working on.
 
I thought the same thing way back when I was overclocking my shiny new Pentium 4 3.06ghz.  I lost days of my life over the year that I ran the system "mostly stable"

Because only those with CPUs that overclock like garbage stay at 3.8GHz, those with good chips all go to 4GHz to 4.1GHz.
 
Try Prime95's small FFT test for 15mins. That should shoot the temperature and stability in the foot.

Smash it with OCCT using small FFT's, see if it errors out in ~30m or so.

Because of how ryzen works frequency is VERY important.

I would say, overclock your CPU because it is probably bottlenecking your GPU, if you can't then use VSR to run the gpu at 1440p so the CPU won't be much of a bottleneck, in some cases you might get MORE FPS, in my system r9 270, i5 750 my CPU is a huge bottleneck so playing at 1440p medium is about the same fps at 1080p medium (50-500 depending on if I am playing crysis or minecraft xD).

It's great when overclocking the CPU and memory, yes. But at stock speeds, especially Ryzen 1 is rather lackluster for high refresh rate gaming. The 2600X is much faster in that regard.

Ehh, with MSI, especially their budget lines memory is still kinda spotty from my experience and those of other I have seen.

X470 boards are coming soon with better memory support anyways. Not enough to be worth an upgrade though, you should be fine until Ryzen 3000

Color is not a good reason to buy a motherboard lol. The ASrock Pro 4 is usually the best budget AM4 board.
 
 

Memory stuff is mostly fixed by now it should be fine.

With 1st gen Ryzen, even with BIOS updates, memory compatibility is still kind of hit or miss. There shouldn't be problems with the memory you have selected, but you never know.

Not really. I personally consider it one of my first choices when it comes to recommending cases (specifically the TG version, but with the small window or big acrylic window are just as good, only difference is the side panel) Although technically the Masterbox does edge in out in terms of airflow because the top portion is also mesh (whereas the Enthoo pro M is not) it's otherwise a very solid case, better internally and probably easier to build in.

Out of all of these cases (since you're prioritizing performance) I'd get the master box. Not having a top fan shouldn't be an issue if you have the rear exhaust fan going and an air cooler. 

The Masterbox 5 will have the better airflow due to a mesh front, however, I do consider the other cases to be a better value at the same price point as they come with additional features, but whether those are worth it is up to you.

I'd go with the Meshify C personally. It's like the Enthoo Pro M, but more efficient in space. Had it been out when I built this system, it had been my pic no question.

I live in Albania, this will cost me around 830 Euros, which is 975 USD. I think you're feeling pretty good

get a corsair CX instead, the B3 has big issues with overpower protection. otherwise pretty nice build.

seems pretty good

if you are not in rush then you can wait, on second thought, if you spend a little much on z370 board, it probably ensure that you can throw a 8700k at near future for upgrade. otherwise you can get ryzen, thats a good platform too.  

If your primary usage is gaming then i5 8400 with H310 mobo

get ryzen and find mobo can use 3200mhz ram
and you clear to go

Well, if you game primarily, both platforms are great, with Intel edging forward a bit. 
Get Ryzen if you need the PC now, or get Intel if you can wait for cheaper motherboards (I think they are not that far away from launch).

Check your monitor OSD menu for Overdrive option. Try higher values if it is there.

Ghosting is determined by response time, but the advertised response time specs don't tell you what the response time is, you need to read detailed reviews that actually measure it.
 
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/278610-display-technology-faq-mythbuster/