Nytrite

If you want to make a copy (or clone) of the entire disk, you can use something like Acronis True Image (among others). It can also create backups on a schedule.
 
Alternatively, the cheapest option would be to use the tools included with Windows: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/backup-and-restore-in-windows-352091d2-bb9d-3ea3-ed18-52ef2b88cbef#WindowsVersion=Windows_10. Not quite as flexible/powerful but no extra software needed.

I'll keep this in mind! But I'll try my luck first contacting the reputable computer shop around here since I may lack the necessary tools/equipments you mentioned. Thank you again!

Usually the OS should reside on the SSD, which isn't failing, or at least not "clicking" .
 
What I can't tell you is, if the bootloader is on the failing SATA Drive. 
 
What I can hint to, try to get a crucial sata SSD the same size as your failing disc, Crucial always has a key for a version of Acronis. 
 
Grab a USB to SATA adapter or case, put in the new SSD, install acronis and try to clone the failing disc onto the new ssd using Acronis Cloning tool. When this goes through without errors, shut down the laptop, remove the old HDD and put in the new SSD instead. 
 
This is what I have been doing in those cases. 

yes backup your data ASAP and get a replacement for your harddisk. (the HGST)
 
When drives start clicking like that, they are near death usually.
 
 
cheers
Ang

I had a drive go clicky in my old laptop and it lasted about another 6 months before I had it crash and it reported 100% bad sectors. I was able to get some data off of it, but not a full drive copy. Would def suggest looking into a new drive, potentially solid state. 
 
Side note: upon a complete format of said drive, it did stop clicking and showed full drive health, so that was strange.

Pretty much a given. If you have a SATA HDD, you can replace it with a SATA SSD.

Thanks a bunch! Will post results later tonight

if you still get low framerate then you need to check if the NVIDIA driver is installed first. you can run OCCT at the same time or not, would help if you did the test the same but do one without it too if the framerate is still low

OK that's cool time to get a New 2DS xl

I personally run them simultaneously to test for rock solid stability. OCCT is to test CPU. Unigine Heaven on loop is used to test GPU + a bit of CPU (gaming load). Keep in mind that there are loads that make gaming loads look weak like enterprise apps.
 
If you need rock solid stability run both.
 
If the hardest thing you're gonna do is game, you can run them separately. 

i would recommend running them separately. if you want a full test of everything at once, use Aida64

I ordered the G403 in the end and I must say that I'm very happy with the mouse. No flaws till now.  Btw, you 'spamming' in 'my' thread isn't a problem at all. I think of 'my' thread as a way for people to initiate a discussion.  

Thanks for the pro-tip, when's the earliest possible date that supposedly fixes the bad mousewheel?
 
Awesome! I might just start my own thread soon so that I could get more responses.

Again I'm sorry OP for "spamming" in your thread. Hope you find your mouse!

I'm not OP but may I ask why no Deathadder Elite (or Naga Hex V2)? I'm on the same situation as him but I don't want to clog the forum with more identical posts.
 
I'm currently debating between Logitech G403 (is this the same as the one with Prodigy?), Corsair Scimitar (although there's too many buttons for my taste), Razer Deathadder Elite, and the Razer Naga Hex V2. I'm generally leaning towards the G403, Naga HV2 and Deathadder.
 
I've read a lot of reviews but I haven't heard much about their build quality. 
 
EDIT: I'm more of a LoL player.

make sure windows is updated first.
 
msi afterburner to check gpu clocks
hwinfo to check everything else
 
unigine heaven on loop (run at for at least 15-20min to check for temps, or until temps stabilize)
run it with OCCT for CPU pushing
^ run these to check for temps
 
aida64 is nice too. 
 
play some games on it because sometimes game will find things benches don't, make sure you run heavy demanding games so like Witcher 3 or any of the newer triple A games that can push the system.
 
use crystaldiskmark to check the drives to see if they run properly or damage
 
ofc do visual inspections and such. check the screen fo backlight bleed, see if everything is flush or damage.
 
Never run Prime95 or Furmark for laptops. 

Everything build in 2017 should definitely be fine (ofc with some outliers), also not everyone had this issue from begin with so you still have a chance to get an older revision with no problems.  
 
But you should always grab the "freshest" build you can get if you can choose, just because Logitech works on how to produce better and make the product better / with less RNG to Quality Control and (pre)fixes for common issues. 
 
I made the experience that most issues with the newer logitech mice since g303 are DIY fixable if there is nothing wrong with f.e. the coating or something.
But its far from the good old Logitech where a Mouse lasted 10years  But they also got cheaper in general.
 
Edit:
Ah some things to mention, which Logitech should think of working on.
Cable is pretty thick they made it thinner then the g303 cable but only a little. (maybe replace it with ceeza mod) 
Mousefeet weither on GPRO or G403 both suck. Have both mice, get ready to buy new mousefeets if its important to you.
Sidebuttons on the G403 are springy and little thin plastic they feel a little cheap but they do work flawlessly for me.
On the G403 a common thing is to have a scratch on the bottom side of the mouse from the upper left through the Sensor'ish section, its not a crack just a scratch but looks weird  
 
I had them all. G303, G403 and GPRO.
My rating is as follows:
G403 > G303 > GPRO
 
G303 had the strange diamond shape you could get used to, mine died to the curse of the double click bug, (thick cable good mousefeet)
GPRO has a very low LoD and whiggles when moving fast. Making the mouse inaccurate, also have a coating issue. (thick cable bad mousefeet)
G403 is kinda Deathadder fake mouse but works with the least flaws if some at all. (thick cable bad mousefeet)

"maintain" = close LOADS of topics, and send people the link to said topic? Ya, way to much work for the mods. People generaly just spam their questions in their own topics.

I have the MSI GE73VR (same essentially as GE63VR which is the 15" model with a 3ms screen) - the cooling on it is fantastic, even with a 1070 non MQ design. The only issue I have with it at the given moment is the CPU is just not beefy enough to handle what I throw at it (PUBG live streaming). But that is simply due to the PUBG lack of optimizations, and limitations of single core utilization. 
 
I have a custom paste job on mine with cooler laboratories ultra liquid metal. During benchmarking my CPU rarely gets above 65, and GPU stays around 60 as well. I have managed to overclock my system personally on the GPU to out perform a desktop base clock, with my GPU reaching 1905 on average on the core, and 8400 at its highest so far on memory clock speeds. The display is 120hz and absolute perfection even though it is a TN panel. The color accuracy at 94% NTSC is outstanding for what I do on the go. The weight and thin profile is a major bonus, and the keyboard, simply put, is one of the best keyboards I've used on a laptop. I was running alienware laptops for the last 6 years, but have no regret with my decision here. 

Precisely why I recommend people go with beefier laptops with absurdly good cooling systems if they want a GTX 1070. 1060's the best you can do on a svelte form factor minus the 1070 Max-Q.
 
And no problem. Hope you can find what you're looking for.

I was worried about the GTX 1070, it might be a beast but if the laptop's not well built to cater to it issues might arise. Honestly if it weren't for the portability I'm pretty sure I'd be googling how to properly build a desktop right now.
 
Anyway, thanks for the help! I'm slowly learning based from everybody's suggestions (and with some extensive research) - so now I'm a tad bit more confident in picking.

It depends on what type of things and games you are planning to do on it.
 
For many titles, the GTX 1060 is solid and can give you 60 frames or more in many AAA titles on high settings and even more on popular multiplayer e-sports titles.
 
I don’t mind Alienware these days but if there are a lot of complaints about it and they are fairly recent, probably best to avoid it.
 
The NP8156 definitely looks more “professional” and has better performance in games compared to the MSI but according to Tom’s Hardware, may suffer from high CPU temperatures, albeit mostly in synthetic tasks. The MSI cools better but the aesthetics may be a bit too much for some.

this is your best option IMO
MSI GT62VR DOMINATOR PRO-239
 
good cooling system, powerfull gpu, good sound system

Hmmm, I don't have experience with XoticPC, they do have good rating though.
 
I bought laptop couple of months ago fro HIDEvolution, and experience was good. They also provide international shipping and warranty (additional international warranty is expensive though)
 
+1 to go for local deal if possible for after sales service and support

Sure, it was merely an example, and you get the idea
 
Spending $1600 on used hardware can give you possibilites spending the same on new hardware can not.
 

I guess I'll have a few months to prepare. Thanks for this, I really appreciate it. I'll take note.