KarathKasun

The USB connection is just for the ports on the front of the enclosure.  The SATA ports and power port are what connects to the drives.

Build a RPi laptop/tablet?
 
Get a new color Ti calculator?  (Ti84 CE)

The failure is with the filesystem, the ACPI errors have nothing to do with failing to boot.
 
You need to fsck the root partition.
 
If it failed while doing package management, and you did not fix the filesystem problem before migrating, the filesystem may be broken now.

PWM should never ever be  used to dim a light source of any kind anywhere ever. God it's F'ing awful.

I would first off make sure which of your components is producing the whine, inside an enclosed case it can be pretty tough to tell it can sound like the GPU from the outside but could actually be the PSU. If it is the PSU and you want to replace it I personally wouldn't go for a Coolermaster PSU, I've never used them before mainly because I've heard some pretty sketchy things. Coil Whine issues being one that's common in a lot of their models, due to them being more on the budget side and using cheaper components. I personally have only ever used EVGA, Seasonic, and Corsair power supply's I recommend anything from the EVGA Supernova line, there's sometimes some pretty decent deals where you can get an 80+ platinum PSU for the same price or lower than a gold. Coil whine is more common in the power supply of the computer more than any other component, the GPU is another common component to develop coil whine, if it is the PSU that is having the coil whine issues than replacing it should get rid of it, however if the GPU is what has the coil whine issues than replacing the PSU more than likely won't do much, the issue could be the 80+ bronze rating but it's hard to tell. The only way to 100% get rid of GPU coil whine if the PSU replacement doesn't work is to either warranty or replace your GPU.

Derp, its the CCFL that is more "peaky".  The reason they can look better in monitors is that the peaks correspond almost exclusively with Red Green and Blue wavelengths.  Probably got this wrong because of being surrounded by cheap LED lit monitors with their horrible blue/off white backlight color.
 
In general white LED's are weak in the aqua and red parts of the spectrum. Newer phosphor materials can make up for this mostly.
 
Flicker is a problem with both, due to LED brightness being PWM controlled in most screens.  Resistive brightness control is possible, and eliminates this problem.  If you have a LED lit monitor, try bringing brightness up to reduce flicker induced eye strain.  The lower the brightness, the more pronounced the flicker will be if it is PWM controlled.

Yep, you cant really fix colors on a screen to compensate for the backlight.  You can kinda sorta fix backlight tint, but it will never look "right".
 
This was also a problem with old CCFL lit displays.  The color of the backlight would shift to a redish tinge over time as the bulbs wore/burned out slowly.  LEDs just seem to get more and more dim with the same color profile as you put hours on them.

LED and LCD are the same thing. Unless you are talking about OLED, which is not used in monitors because of burn in problems.
 
LCD is the glass part that you look at.  LED is the lighting behind the screen.  Very old LCD screens used to use fluorescent tubes behind the display and new ones use LED lights.  The display itself is the exact same between the two though.

LED gives more eye strain due to it producing a more "blue" light.  Older LCD's produced a very neutral white color temperature in comparison.  Newer LED tech allows for better color temperatures, but the light emitted is much more "peaky" than older CCFL backlights in most cases.

LED and LCD are the same thing. Unless you are talking about OLED, which is not used in monitors because of burn in problems.
 
LCD is the glass part that you look at.  LED is the lighting behind the screen.  Very old LCD screens used to use fluorescent tubes behind the display and new ones use LED lights.  The display itself is the exact same between the two though.

GPU isnt helping, but it should not be that bad on that GPU with a better CPU.

You have to be using a motherboard that allows you to set every CPU/Memory related voltage and timing manually to get much further.  With your system you are limited to stock vcore and stock memory timings.

Not happening.
 
You can, at most, boost the FSB a little with SoftFSB or some similar tool.  This would get you maybe into the ~3ghz range.

Correct.  3.2ghz would be a nice place to put it if it does not need extra voltage or other tweaks.
 
Games "recommended specs" are just the minimum that they officially support.  You may need to reduce quality settings, and the game may not be smooth enough for you to be as competitive as people with newer rigs, but it should run.

You have to be using a motherboard that allows you to set every CPU/Memory related voltage and timing manually to get much further.  With your system you are limited to stock vcore and stock memory timings.

Not happening.
 
You can, at most, boost the FSB a little with SoftFSB or some similar tool.  This would get you maybe into the ~3ghz range.

Monitor temps, don't go over ~1.5v, and get a fat cooler (air or water does NOT matter).  Not sure what temps are recommended for that CPU, but 70c-80c should be about as high as you want to see.
 
Just start raising the FSB in 10-20mhz increments to start.  Maybe set your memory timings manually and reduce its target speed so you are not overclocking the RAM too far.  Check for stability at each step.

It is likely that your monitor is just skipping frames at 240hz.

If the OP is just talking about getting around buzzy onboard audio, they do not need to spend more than ~$50 on an external USB "sound card".

TAA only works on titles that do NOT use deferred rendering AFAIK.

Dielectric grease literally means "non-conductive grease".
 
Dielectric materials are insulators that have some form of reaction to an electric field, usually polarization of the molecules.  Even though they can interact with the field, they are still an insulator and will not directly transmit current.  This is the same stuff you use on spark plugs to keep water out of the HV connection areas and prevent arcing.

Also, I hope you like command line configuration as this router has no GUI.  You will need to find the esoteric router reset procedure to clear out old passwords as well.  In addition you need a Cisco serial console cable to connect to the router and configure it.

It's not the architecture. It's the thread count. Modern AAA games are being designed to take as many as eight threads and have their way with them (sometimes all the threads they can get, really), and a true quad without hyperthreading/SMT is going to hold you back on games where the CPU is going to have a lot of things going on at once.

Torx or, if they have a post in the middle, Torx security.

Disable DHCP, connect to ethernet network (using the normal ports, not the "internet" port), new WiFi hotspot wherever the router is located.