the problem can also be in motherboard .... i would say sell the cpu, motherboard, ram and gpu for like 20-30$ if you can don't know if anyone will buy it ..... and with 70$ get something like used core 2 duo, 4 gb ram, and something like nvidia gt730- gt740 equivalent .....
Something like this shouldn't do bad
eBay link to a $70~ i3 sandy PC
Although it's iGPU (hd 3000) is a tad weak for games (and it's overbudget due to shipping and getting a GPU for it would be a tad hard ;-;)
Hey man, you got what you got. Is that dollars, pounds, rupees?
No matter what your going to be hitting eBay and buying used which is totally fine. For 50 you should be able to get a used cpu/board/ram combo and just drop it in
Actually I'd strongly recommend going with a monitor instead of a tv if possible mainly due to the fact that 1. TVs usually have a lower refresh rate and honestly gaming on a smaller screen can (in my opinion) much better because on a larger screen, your eyes will need to move alot more therefore giving you eye strain.
But ultimately the choice is yours
All the time I'll see people recommend PSUs based on efficiency. This, although fundamentally a good idea so that you don't end up with a stick and some chewing gum powering your system, shows that most do not understand what 80 PLUS efficiency implies. Let's get a couple myths out of the way:
- "A higher 80 PLUS rating correlates to better quality." Incorrect. Certain components in a PSU do need to be of a certain quality to achieve higher efficiency (typically MOSFETs and diodes), however, quality of soldering, certain capacitors, etc, can be forgone in achieving an exemplary 80 PLUS rating. Electrical performance can be ditched as well. I like to use the EVGA G1 as an example of this. It's made of above average componentry, performs lackingly, and achieves gold efficiency. Then there's the EVGA B2, which is constructed about as well, performs better electrically, and advertises 80 PLUS Bronze efficiency (it actually achieves 80 PLUS Silver efficiency but that standard has been given up by and large). The EVGA B2 is a better PSU than the G1, yet it wastes slightly more electricity. This will correlate to a marginally more expensive power bill (pennies on the dollar for most home users) but ensures you a better power supply for your money. If, however, you plan to run a very power-hungry system for several hours on end then a more efficient power supply can save a more noticeable amount of money, especially if used heavily during hours of the day where electricity is more expensive.
On another note: some brands will undersell their unit's rated wattage if it can achieve higher efficiency at lower loads, I.E. a brand may sell a 550W 80 PLUS Platinum rated unit that can actually output 600W+ but would have to be advertised at a lower efficiency rating if they were to sell it at that rated wattage.
- "Higher 80 PLUS efficiency keeps the PSU cooler." Not to any serious degree, but this is technically true. A less efficient PSU will waste more electricity and wasted electricity is turned into heat. This is not likely to have an appreciable impact on the temperature of your room or system however as your system doesn't really draw that much power, thus it's better to optimize your system's airflow before throwing an AX1500i in your system to minimize heat created by the power supply. Since PSUs exhaust heat anyways the temperature of your system's hardware will not be impacted to any noticeable degree. Different PSUs also handle cooling differently and 80 PLUS efficiency doesn't correlate to the size of the fan used or the heat-dissipation abilities of the unit.
- "Power supplies are most efficient at around 50% load." This is, by and large, untrue, and seems to be set in stone by many simply because the peak efficiency measured by Ecova's testing of just three load levels is at 50% always. Many manufacturers or reviewers test PSU efficiency at different loads and post charts online, if this matters to you, but many PSUs are more efficient at 60% load than 50% and many are more efficient towards 30%. Don't buy a PSU based on how efficient it will be with whatever hardware you have in it. Different topologies and different PSU platforms handle efficiency differently. This should be a non-issue and you should be looking at buying the best PSU you can get with your money.
- "If you have a 1000W PSU with an 80% efficiency then you are only going to be able to get 800W from your power supply." This is incorrect. If you have an 80% efficient 1000W PSU then, when putting it under enough load to max its output you are going to be drawing more power from the walls - not losing output from your power supply. In this instance, putting a 1000W PSU under max load with an 80% efficiency would mean you're drawing 1250 watts from the wall. Math goes as such:
X / Y= Z
1000W / .80 = 1250
1250W drawn from the wall
X represents the wattage you're using (say 350W with a Ryzen 7 3700X and RTX 2080 Super under 100% system load), Y represents the efficiency in decimals (an 85% efficient PSU would be .85), and Z represents your total system draw from the wall. For this calculation we're assuming that the PSU in question has exactly enough wattage to power the system at 100% load and is 87% efficient at 100% draw, making it an 80+ Gold efficient power supply.
So in our case with the 3700X and 2080 Super:
350 / .87
= 402 watts drawn from your power outlet
Note, however, that efficiency is not consistent throughout the load of the power supply.
Power supplies are more and less efficient at different loads. They are also more efficient when connected to a more powerful grid, the 230V nominal, which you may use if you don't live in North America. Check that your PSU allows for operation under both voltages. Most modern ones switch operation automatically. Other, often older units, will have a hard switch at the back of the unit to switch to choose from either 115V or 230V (note, DO NOT SWITCH TO THE ONE THAT DOESN'T MATCH THE ELECTRICAL OUTPUT OF YOUR WALL OUTLET! This doesn't usually end well!). This graph demonstrates the efficiency curve of a 2011-era Corsair TX750 when plugged into a 115V AC versus being plugged into a 230V AC. Note the TX750 is an 80+ Bronze rated PSU.
If you live in the United States, for example, you are using a 110-120V (115 nominal) AC through a standard NEMA 5-15 socket. Your power supply may be more or less efficient than your manufacturer claims because they may advertise efficiency through a 230V AC, though standard 80 PLUS efficiency testing is done on a 115V AC. Note that these tests for efficiency are also done under very specific test environments and do not necessarily reflect real-world scenarios so you may achieve higher or lower efficiency than rated by the manufacturer.
And just to finish up let's go list the various 80 PLUS ratings and their efficiency at different power draws on a 115V and 230V AC as well as 230V AC redundant.
Note that Silver isn't really used anymore and the efficiency of a PSU that would achieve Silver certification would typically just be rounded up or down to Bronze or Gold. "230V internal redundant" refers to efficiency in a redundant scenario like in a data center. This guy from Dell explains it.
One last thing I want to make a little more hard-hitting here. 80 PLUS efficiency ratings were invented to save corporations and industrial services money in the long-term, not home users! A company with 1000 computers all consuming 100W for 10 hours a day will see a much greater benefit from having all 80 PLUS Titanium units in their systems than you likely would with your system. Don't spend tons of money trying to get a super efficient PSU when a PSU that's just as good, costs less, and achieves a tier lower 80 PLUS rating is drastically cheaper.
Resources:
Ecova (formerly Ecos), the 80 PLUS certification founder (and located very near me in Portland!)
Wikipedia - There's more info here if you want to go down the Wikipedia rabbit hole
Plug Load Solutions - A list of all PSU companies and how many different PSUs they have that achieve Ecova's various 80 PLUS standards.
I'd say you'll get a better value with the 770. If you plan on upgrading in a couple of years or even less, definitely go that way. I think the benefit of new APIs like DX12 and Vulkan are going to take some time to kick in and by then, you'll be read for another card.
As someone who used a 770 until just a few days ago, I can say that I would rather have the 770 and the $90 towards a new gpu upgrade in the future. Just keep the $90 in an envelope, add $50 a month, and in six months you can buy a 1070 or 490. I think it's a much better value. A 770 is a little faster than a 960 (trades blows, wins more than it loses), and a 960 is a little slower than a 380, so they should be really close on performance, trading blows depending on the game. They are both really capable gpus, so you'll be happy either way, but I think for similar performance I would go with the cheaper option and upgrade sooner. How much is the 480 4gb, btw?
I really didn't find any problems at 1080p. GTA V would use 2.5gb on all very high settings, but if you ignore suggested limits you don't really run into any stuttering. Sure, some games will go over that, but I never had an issue.
as @don_svetlio said the 380 will crush the 770 in DX12 and Vulkan but still Vulkan is not supported that much as its fairly new but when it is it would crush the 770 + the 2gb of VRAM you could live with it but it would be on the bleeding edge
The default settings usually have laptops run at max fan speed under high load so doubt there's anything you can do. Envy are also not meant for gaming
Otmane Hanine reacted to The Sloth in I7 7700k Dark Rock Pro 3 cooling
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Otmane Hanine got a reaction from don_svetlio in AMD R9 380 or Nvidia GTX 770
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