Tredien

Well, a ps4 is 100$ more. Add 100$ more to the pc budget and you can get more performance and upgradability. 
 
I would NEVER recommend buying a console.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/8Pz44D
 
 
Here's a ps4
 
 
keep in mind most components are custom built, this is a pc equivalent

Not to be confused with the PB278Q... cmon guys, these model names are getting a bit out of hand.

A general rule of thumb is that you can cool up to 300w on a 120.1 radiator with high rpm (read: LOUD) fans. What a lot of people go with is a 120.5 for this kind of setup (I do) so that could be 1 360mm for the 2 GPU's and 1 240mm  for the CPU. However you could probably get away with a total of 120.4 (say x2 240mm rads) with medium to high rpm fans and still be fine.
 
Personally, if you have the space I would go for 120.5 then you know you have plenty of cooling capacity. 
 
In terms of radiator brands. XSPC make cheap and fairly slim rad's that perform nearly as good as more expensive thicker rads. Alphacool make very good rads and so do swiftech. The alphacool UT60 is one of the best performers but it is quite thick (60mm) so can cause mobo clearance issues when mounted in the top of your case. The alphacool ST30 (30mm thick) or swiftech MCR-XP (34mm) are my personal picks as they are thin and perform close to that of the 60mm rads.
 
Hope that answers your questions. Watercooling can be a bit daunting when you first get into it as there is so many different opinions and products/styles to choose from. The key always is to plan everything first, then double check, then triple check as you can waste a lot of money buying the wrong parts that wont fit or work in your specific build.

Neither. MSI Mpower/MAX.

"Are those military grade components?"

"Are those military grade components?"

With more and more functionality being moved onto the CPU anyway, I don't think this will be much of a problem. As a recent video showed, there's practically no difference in terms of performance between the cheapest and most expensive motherboards.

I remember back with my first custom built PC, once I overclocked it the OS actually thought it was the model higher as it seemed to use the clock speed to determine the model. I'm talking AMD Athlon XP 1500+ showing as a 1700+ after overclocking it.
 
Who knows the odds of getting an 8350 at 5GHz though? My theory is either they have improved their fabrication to make them more reliable at overclocking in which case older ones couldn't do it as often so old 8350s to 5GHz would be rare (due to less quality fabrication) or they haven't improved it and every single one that is capable of running at that speed is sold as that speed which would make an 8350 capable of being overclocked to that speed even MORE rare.
 
Just my theory though, I'm no engineer!

Microsoft Security Essentials, used for about 3 years and never caused me any trouble, next to that would probably have to be Avira

I just use Microsoft Security Essentials because its light and does everything I need it to.

Holy, the advice given on this forum is beyond terrible.
 
MSI should be your first choice when considering a graphics card, especially if you consider overclocking.
EVGA has only recently upgraded their cooling design, prior to that their non-reference cards were shockingly hot.
Gigabyte has an excellent cooling design that id consider on far with the Twin Forzr although lacks overclocking support in most of their cards.
Gainward is common in areas outside US, I've owned several high end Gainward Phantoms, no issues.
ASUS, generally clocked lower than Gigabyte & MSI cards although their cooling is excellent.
 
Through years of overclocking cards, testing cards, in my own opinion MSI leads the way.
Personally i buy my cards to overclock, and with that i expect an unlocked card, and MSI delivers.

Ah theory craft, where logic goes to die.

Same and there are only evga's part from the reference here. :|

Asus is ok, but their cooler is around the same as the other slightly better and slightly worst but what makes them bad is how they have bad customer service so if your card breaks then there is a high chance that you will have a paper weight. Play it safe and get the classified which is also a great card.

It'd be even more perfect without an ugly bumblebee color.

They all seem fairly quite for a highend card in the reviews, techpower reviewed them all with the same setup so it's a good comparison chart
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/ <- look for gtx 780.

That said, I'm rather torn between the ACX and the TF. 

^its only 40 bucks more than a ref 780...  thats not much when you're spending 660...  I would have bought this if it was out when I bought my Asus DC2

I'm assuming the lightning will be basically the same as the DC2, enhanced VRM design with a non reference PCB. 
 
Honestly any non-reference 780 will be perfectly fine, get the one you like most and go from there. If you plan on watercooling sometime get one that has a reference PCB, but a non-reference cooler, so atleast until you watercool you'll have good cooling.

Ah theory craft, where logic goes to die.

Ah theory craft, where logic goes to die.

I'll wait and see until there's actual benchmarks.

Ah theory craft, where logic goes to die.

I chose Nvidia over AMD because of driver issues with AMD on my earlier 5850. I also found some love in Nvidia because of EVGA! :)

the 780 or titan will be a relic by the time 4k is mainstream