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Analog

Member
  • Content Count

    2,917
  • Joined

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About Analog

  • Title
    X99 Overclocking Expert ;)
  • Birthday Aug 03, 1993

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    maximum_sc_analog
  • Xbox Live
    PrecooledAnalog

Profile Information

  • Location
    Leiden; The Netherlands
  • Gender
    Male

System

  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 9 - 3900X @ 4.2GHz
  • Motherboard
    Asus Crosshair VI Extreme
  • RAM
    16GB Geil Evo Potenza 3600MHz RAM
  • GPU
    Zotac GTX 1080 Founders Edition
  • Case
    Cooler Master C700P
  • Storage
    Intel 660P 512GB SSD and Intel 660P 1TB SSD
  • PSU
    Corsair RM1000i
  • Display(s)
    DELL 3818DW Ultrawide
  • Cooling
    ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 120
  • Keyboard
    Ducky Shine 3 Special Gold Edition
  • Mouse
    Logitech MX Master
  • Sound
    Bose SoundTrue
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro x64
  • Laptop
    MacBook Pro 2017 running Windows

Recent Profile Visitors

3,606 profile views
  1. At least locally to me, in one of our retailers there is already a listing for the 6800 and 6800 XT with the option to pre-order (which I have done). Not sure for other regions and retailers though.
  2. You seem quite adamant about using the AIO in your loop. If you use a step down whenever necessary and T-junctions can work, not going to look pretty though. Still, it is up to you.
  3. The existing tubing of the Arctic Freezer II uses non standard sizes outer: 12.4 mm, Inner: 6.0 mm. You will not be able to fit it any normal fittings, let alone compression fittings. Therefore, you will need to remove it completely. Both the rad and the block of the AIO use barb fittings that are non removable (bot are welded). Considering the inner size of the original tube and also the fact that standard tubing is sized inner 10mm, outer 13mm it would make it exceptionally hard for you to make everything snug and ensure no leaks, because the barbs on these components are very small.
  4. I'd go with the DELL. Seen some reviews of the G7, quite underwhelming in my opinion.
  5. I used to have exactly the same cooler. Well, I still have it but moved to a completely completely customer liquid cooling solution. Still, I was thinking the exact same thing as you before going all out. The reason why I decided against it are several. Firstly, the rad is aluminum, the block is copper and the all of the other radiators which were available to me at the time were copper as well. I checked about what can happen when mixing metals in a loop and decided against it. Simply wasn't worth it considering the money that I would be saving by doing so. Secondly, the pump is pretty weak.
  6. Have looked into the SL600M from Cooler Master? It has for the most part a standard internal layout, but it is focused more on air cooling. It also has enough space for your 180mm fans.
  7. The RM 1000x is a pretty good psu. I actually have one of those in my system and it is working perfectly. When it comes to power supplies you cant really go wrong with wrong with a Corsair unit. Superflower and BeQuiet also have decent 1000W models but it all depends on your budget.
  8. Pretty much any reputable brand will be fine. Just pick up whatever you find visually pleasing. I think DeepCool had some relatively cheap and at the same time decent RGB fans, but I am not sure if those are available in your region.
  9. Analog

    Build Fun

    Generally good choice of parts, but what made you chose a GTX1080 Ti when the RTX 3070 is right around the corner?
  10. Nice looking setup. Considering the two PCs and set of monitors I assume it is for you and your significant other. Yet, as there are no clear rig-color indication it makes me wonder, who gets the middle monitor?
  11. I just checked your other build with the copper piping and it looks sick af! Are you planning on doing the same style with this one or are you over the copper looks?
  12. I get it now. I was under the impression the board was new. yeah, if it is second hand... not much that can be done at this point, especially without proof of purchase. That chip you took a photo of might be reparable, but at least as far as I know a blown up fan controller at the most results in the fan plugged in that connector no longer running or running at max speed. It shouldn't case a no POST issue.
  13. It's sad for the motherboard mate. I understand that you killed it and you feel obliged to bite the bullet and pay retail price for another motherboard, but IMO you should still try to get an RMA for it. You know stuff just happens sometimes and who knows the motherboard wasn't DOA in the first place. I have killed a graphics card in the past from flashing a custom BIOS on it and pushed the clocks so high the VRM gave way. I RMAed it and it was honored. Didn't have to spend anything additionally.
  14. Nope, I am currently in Germany and there is a small PC retailer quite close to where I live. They don't even have website, that's how small they are. They don't have the latest in components and water-cooling stuff, but they make up with prices.
  15. I am referring to soft tubing. I don't feel like doing hard tubing to just cool the CPU.
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