ApexSutton31

CS:GO? Counter-Stike? The game that's been the number one shooter game since like 1999? I thought everyone knew that abbreviation. Lol. And OW is Overwatch. Another fps game. FPS is first person shooter.
 
Haven't checked using apps other than games. The artifacting happened outside of gaming, just to clarify. 
All games are stored on a 2TB (terabyte) M.2 drive. OS is Windows 11. GPU driver is updated the second a new one comes out. I use the Nvidia GeForce Experience thing for that. And I do a clean install every time, so it uninstalls the previous version when it installs the new one.

QVL lisitng is not some religious text, if you do not follow it the performance will not be any worse, there is ZERO basis to that claim, it is simply not true. The Dominator kit you are now looking at did not exist when your motherboard was produced so of course it won't be on the QVL list, but it does not matter. 
 
This is the exact info I have provided to others in the past.
 
Go into Bios and disable XMP, (excuse the Asus terminology, it is the only bios I know well), then go to advanced settings, then AI tweaker. 
 
From there you are going to want to adjust your memory frequency, I generally recommend single incremental jumps, so start at 3000MHz, then go down to DRAM Voltage and set it to 1.3500V. Save and exit Bios. I you get caught it a boot loop and the settings reset to default you know the memory OC was not stable. 
 
If stable enough to post into Windows then run a quick stress test, I recommend Cinebench R15 (runs faster than R20) and if stable restart and post boot into Bios. Also, keep in mind stable in a quick stress test is not the same as stable during a gaming session. Windows stop codes related to memory will let you know that your memory OC is not stable.
 
If you hit instability along the way start upping the DRAM voltage by increments of 0.010V (so 1.360V, 1.370V, 1.380V... etc) until stable, I would not recommend exceeding 1.450V though. 
 
Once stable at 3000MHz you can push further, 3066MHz, 3133MHz, 3200MHz, 3266MHz, 3333MHz, and so forth, each time testing stability, possibly adjusting voltage and this is how you OC your memory, eventually you will hit a wall.
 
For me this 'wall' was 3466MHz at 1.3750V, but at 3533MHz even at 1.450V I was not stable. As said before mileage may vary. Even at 3033MHz you may not be stable at all. But it is fun to try and extremely low risk.  
 
Tightening memory timings is a little more involved but as long as the kit is CL16 or better then I would not bother unless your are really up to it. 
 
 

Good luck

Final product 

Final product 

Hello all,
             Just wanted to share what I did about a week ago. Was thinking about upgrading my CPU to Intel's 10th gen or waiting for Zen 3, but was talked into delidding my 7800x that I already had by someone on PCMR's IG page, oddly enough. Well, I bought the equipment needed to delid and apply liquid metal from de8auer on Amazon and bought his Direct Die install plate so I would get the best thermals possible. Bad part is, I'm still only running an NH-D15 (but only a single 140mm fan on it, cuz of RAM clearance issues), so the thermals could be better with an AIO or of course a custom loop, I know.
 
But with the 7800x stock, I managed a fairly decent all core OC of 4.5GHz @ 1.150V. After the delid, I still only managed an OC of 4.7GHz @ 1.190V. But with multiple 10 minute runs of Cinebench R20, it still never reached above 80 C. I went all the way up to 1.230 I believe (don't remember the exact hundredth), but never could reach 4.8GHz and it shot up to 85 C almost instantly. So I think I may just have a dud of a CPU at this point. Lol. But it's a modest OC for such a low end HEDT CPU, I would think. Also, this is the first OC I've ever done on a CPU, so I'm an actual noob and I think it's pretty decent for a scrub like me.
 
Just figured I'd share with the LTT squad. Anyway, any OC tips or suggestions, feel free to post up! And I'm looking at getting Corsair's H150i Pro XT RGB 360 radiator as an upgrade to the cooling when it comes back in stock at Amazon (mainly just to stay in the Corsair ecosystem that I'm already in with my case and fans). But any AIO suggestions are well warranted as well.

Final product 

Final product 

Final product 

Yeah, I guess y'all are right. Guess I'm just getting the itch to change things up or make a new build. Lol. But yeah, I want to see what they have in response to Intel's 10th gen. But yeah, if that happens, I would most likely go no higher than Ryzen 7 or an i7, cuz anymore would just be a waste of money, or so I would think. Since I don't personally need all the extra cores and threads.
 
But yeah, that's kind of what I originally thought. And I was even about to drop the big bucks on a 2080ti, but then I started reading more rumors about their next gen GPUs and so now I'm going to wait for that mainly. Lol. I have OC'd my 7800x already, but I need to quit being a baby about watercooling and get an AIO. Cuz I'm only at 4.5GHz on my 7800x since it's not delided and gets pretty warm. Also don't remember the voltage it's at, so I'll have to get back to you on that one. Lol

Hello all,
             Nothing is broken and the GPU is fine now, but I was just wondering what happened. I use the GeForce Experience app to keep my drivers up to date (yeah, I know, everyone now hates me lol). Anyway, I just checked to see and saw a driver update for 4/15 that I hadn't downloaded yet. I have a Founders Edition 1080ti and downloaded the newest driver from the app, it went through the clean install download as normal, but when it blinked the screen and pinned the GPU fan, the screen came back, but the fan never spun down. I then restarted my PC, checked the app again and it said I hadn't downloaded the driver yet. So I clicked the custom install and did a clean install again. Then when it blinked the screen, it stayed black. I tried all three DP ports on the GPU and it never came back, GPU fan was pinned the whole time. Last, I gave it enough time to have downloaded everything and just hard reset the PC with the button on the front of the case. The screen came back and it all loaded properly. Now the GPU and its fan are acting normal again, the driver was downloaded correctly, and everything is fine. I'm about to load up CS to make sure it games alright real quick, but I'm just wondering what the hell happened? Has anyone else experienced this before?

Yeah, I guess I always forget to ask that question first. Cuz I play mainly FPS games like CS and now Valorant, sometimes OW. So those can run on a potato. Lol. But I do play racing games like Dirt Rally, Forza 7, and occasionally single player games like Fallout, Elder Scrolls, Witcher 3, stuff like that.
 
Yeah, I never do monitor my stuff unless I'm messing with clocks. So I guess you're right in that that's where I need to start first. Thanks for the reply brother!   

Yeah, I hear that. I had an x99 system before this one and I really should've just kept it, but I gave it to my father for his music production that he does. Works amazing for him now! But yeah, I always assumed that was the main idea behind the HEDT setups was the multitude of PCIe lanes if you used them. I'm running a single GPU with two M.2s, so I'm probably nowhere close to exhausting that many lanes. But yeah, the capture card would help a lot, I'm sure.
 
Okay. Yeah, that makes sense. I read a little about the AVX offsets a while back and gathered about the same from that article. I just figured why mess with them, why not just get the overclock legit. But it would make sense as to why you would need to. I'd rather not mess with it, since I don't fully understand though. Lol
 
Yeah, the long term test is what I really need to do. I got it there, but only tests I've done is a bunch of Cinebech R20 runs and some gaming. But I have yet to test anything other than CS:GO, which I'm sure stresses the CPU almost none. Lol. But yeah, Realbench is the Asus CPU test thing I think right? I had that on my x99 system when I messed with that a bit, but haven't tried it on the x299 yet. 
 
Yeah, my real next step is to let it run for a while and see where that goes. That way I can swing those numbers around without doubt, like you said. But we're learning, we're getting there. Slowly but surely. Lol

Yeah, that makes sense. I really only use it for gaming and homework. I used to stream, which is why I thought I need HEDT platform, but clearly I don't and now I'm stuck with the platform. Lol. So I figured why not OC it and get what I can while I have it ya know. But yeah, I don't even fully understand the AVX offset stuff yet either, so I haven't messed with that

Also, sorry about the super late response. I forgot to pull up the forum page after I figured things out. Clearing the CMOS did work. I redid everything and now am stable at 4.7GHz boost at 1.200 volts and 1.300v mesh voltage (i think is what cache is, but with AsRock boards is what I read). I was thinking about pushing it to 1.275 volts and shoot for 4.8 or 4.9GHz, but I'm only running air with a Noctua D-15s, and the highest I'm seeing at Cinebench R20 is 86 C, so idk if I want to push it too much further from there, since it's not delided

Oh sweet. Didn't even know someone made a spreadsheet for it. Probably should've just Google'd it... Lol. But yeah, the monitor I was looking at is on there and says it'll work fine. Thanks man!

Honestly, cuz I'm dumb. Lol. My first system before this was an x99 and I gave that to my dad who does music production in exchange for a motorcycle. And I thought I needed the enthusiast platform for streaming, which I now know you don't (this x299 is only my second build ever btw). And I just went and bought the cheapest x299 cpu they had thinking I needed what x299 offered. Like I and you've said, I have no real need to swap platforms, just thinking about it. Probably wouldn't get much back if I sold anyway now 

Wait, for real? That's nuts! Yeah, I'll have to stop by some time. I've been wanting to get off my lazy butt and get back into my high school hockey shape, if we're honest. Lol. And a military discount is always enticing! Yeah man. I didn't think anyone from this area was on here either. Lol. MMA enthusiasts who are gaming nerds, not something you hear often either, but sick none the less! ? It was a four year pleasure dropping warheads of foreheads (dumb fighter saying we used ?) and thank you!

Oh for real? Lol. Yeah man. I'm using my GI Bill and going to school at St. Charles Community College in Cottleville for cyber security right now. So I came back home to O'Fallon after the Navy. Lol

Okay, I did. And it says that both drives are not GPT. So I assume I have to make them GPT right?

to put it this way; i have mine in raid0 as system drive, but i have cloud sync on my documents etc, and all my games are located on spinning disks, so a reinstall is pretty fast as i just overwrite the installations of gog, ubiplay, origin and steam, steam is the best, it just detects all games instantly..

if reinstalling and re-downlading, as well as no worries towards document loss, is ok with you, go with striped (0)

if you store things on your system drive, and aren't so good with taking regular backups to other media etc, go with mirrored (1)

the risk is as big as you make itt really.. if you put all your vital docs on your main striped drive, then it's a big risk of data loss.. but striping won't damage the drives or hardware in any way... 

You're not wrong in theory, however, one must assume everything is in a state of failure as soon as it leaves the factory. If you're OK with losing your RAID 0 array, then go for it. Just make sure you have a backup, or instead go with a software based solution such as StableBit DrivePool to pool the disks together. This provides RAID0-like read speeds, reading files from both drives at the same time, but RAID1-like redundancy in case of failures. Or go RAID1 if you want redundancy. Just remember that RAID IS NOT A BACKUP, and hardware RAID does not exist, will fail, and is (IMO) not worth it by the time you factor in rebuilding the array, assuming you can find replacement hardware.

Yeah, I've heard and read about pretty much all the EVGA cards being amazing on warranties and performance. I'm wanting to go three fan design though such as MSI Duke, FTW3, Asus Strix. That sort of thing. I think Gamer's Nexus or someone did some testing and found that, although kind of expected but still, that three fan designs do better for temps than two fans. 

Hey, sorry about the super late reply man.
I watched this video you posted and a few more I found. Ended up just going with BlockChain for the wallet and using Nicehash's mining tool thing. Make about a dollar and a half to two dollars (USD) a day (counting 8 hours of sleep the night before and 8 hours of work throughout the day)
I know I would make more if I let it run throughout the entire day, but I only have one PC and I game on it a fair bit. Hense why I slapped down the money for a 1080ti... Lol
Figured I'd just get my toes wet with the whole mining thing. Thinking about make a small, two graphics cards, mining rig, but I don't know. Don't really make enough at my current job to be doing so... Lol
But thank you for the tips either way. Hope you've been well!

Sorry, you're right. I should have specified. I know it's a 6 core, 12 thread CPU. I just figured that with all the optimizations and features that have come out since my Haswell generation, it would be time to upgrade. But it's starting to seem like my older platform really isn't that old in the grand scheme of things now a days. Lol