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Noob Overclock issue

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Just now, ApexSutton31 said:

Okay. So I have a Clear CMOS button the back of the MOBO. Do you just click it at your regular Windows screen? Or do you do it on restart or something? And what does that do? Or should I just look that up?

Turn the PC on, push it right away. Should reboot once or twice itself, then boot normally at bone stock settings. 

If it's fucked enough sometimes the clear CMOS button doesn't work, then you turn off the PSU with the switch at the back, remove the CMOS battery, hold the power button for 10 seconds to drain the caps as much as possible, then let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Then put the CMOS battery back in, turn on the PSU, it should boot up with a bone stock BIOS again. 

Hello all,

             Let me start with that I have a 7800x CPU with an AsRock x299 Taichi MOBO. I wanted to give my CPU just a slight overclock to 4.4GHz to help with gaming a bit and stuff and changed the all core multiplier to 44 to put it at 4400MHz and changed the voltage from 2.100 (i think is what it was set at stock) to 1.200. Now I have the issue of it not letting me get back into the BIOS. I spam delete on restart and hard restart and it does nothing. Gives me two error codes of d5 and Ab and does not show an image on my monitor. But if I let it just run its course, it just takes longer than normal, sometimes a few extra boots, then gets to the Windows login screen. I'm running the newest update of Window 10 btw. Any help would be appreciated. I'm kind of scared to shut my computer down when I go to bed tonight now. And I need to use it for homework tomorrow as well. Lol

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What voltage did you change? If the vCore was at 2.1v stock, your CPU would be dead within minutes, more likely mere seconds. 

Gaming PC NAS Laptop Workstation

CPU: i5 12600KF 6P+4E Ryzen 7 3700X M4 SoC 4P+6E Xeon X5690 6c12t

Cooler: Noctua NH-D15S Wraith Stealth w/NF-A9 Passive Apple CPU Cooler

Motherboard: ASRock Z690 ITX/ax ASUS Pro B550M-C/CSM Apple J713AP Mac-F221BEC8 (Mac Pro 5,1)

RAM: 2x16GB 3600Mhz DDR4 2x16GB 2400MHz DDR4 24GB Micron LPDDR5 4x8GB 1333MHz ECC DDR3

GPU: Sapphire Pulse Radeon 9060 XT 16GB Radeon WX2100 M4 SoC 10C Radeon RX 5700

Storage: 1TB MP34 + 2TB P41 500GB SSD + 2x4TB IronWolf Pro in ZFS Mirror Apple AP0512Z 1TB Crucial MX500

ODD: LG WH14NS40 None LG GP65NB60 USB DVD Writer Don't know

PSU: EVGA 850W GM Silverstone SST-TX300 53.8Wh LiPo Battery Delta DPS-980BB

Case: Silverstone Sugo 14 Dell Inspiron 530S Mac16,12 chassis (13" MBA) 2009-2012 Mac Pro "Cheese Grater"

OS: Gentoo Linux TrueNAS Scale macOS 26 Tahoe Fedora Linux

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 14" M5P MacBook Pro (work) - iPhone 17 Pro - Apple Watch S11

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, iFlash Solo w/128GB SD Card, Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

 

Vehicles: 2002 Ford F150, 2003 Harley-Davidson Sportster 1200, 2022 Kawasaki KLR650, 1994 DR350SE

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5 minutes ago, Zando Bob said:

What voltage did you change? If the vCore was at 2.1v stock, your CPU would be dead within minutes, more likely mere seconds. 

Is it CPU input voltage then? It was set to a fixed voltage at 2.100 stock. And I moved that to 1.200. I think that's what it was. Forgot to write it down or anything. I honestly just want to get in and put things back to stock and look up some more info before trying again. Is there any way to do that even though it won't let me get into the BIOS with just a restart?

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1 minute ago, ApexSutton31 said:

Is it CPU input voltage then? It was set to a fixed voltage at 2.100 stock. And I moved that to 1.200. I think that's what it was. Forgot to write it down or anything. I honestly just want to get in and put things back to stock and look up some more info before trying again. Is there any way to do that even though it won't let me get into the BIOS with just a restart?

Clear CMOS, you set the Input voltage far, far too low for the CPU to possibly boot, even into BIOS. 

Gaming PC NAS Laptop Workstation

CPU: i5 12600KF 6P+4E Ryzen 7 3700X M4 SoC 4P+6E Xeon X5690 6c12t

Cooler: Noctua NH-D15S Wraith Stealth w/NF-A9 Passive Apple CPU Cooler

Motherboard: ASRock Z690 ITX/ax ASUS Pro B550M-C/CSM Apple J713AP Mac-F221BEC8 (Mac Pro 5,1)

RAM: 2x16GB 3600Mhz DDR4 2x16GB 2400MHz DDR4 24GB Micron LPDDR5 4x8GB 1333MHz ECC DDR3

GPU: Sapphire Pulse Radeon 9060 XT 16GB Radeon WX2100 M4 SoC 10C Radeon RX 5700

Storage: 1TB MP34 + 2TB P41 500GB SSD + 2x4TB IronWolf Pro in ZFS Mirror Apple AP0512Z 1TB Crucial MX500

ODD: LG WH14NS40 None LG GP65NB60 USB DVD Writer Don't know

PSU: EVGA 850W GM Silverstone SST-TX300 53.8Wh LiPo Battery Delta DPS-980BB

Case: Silverstone Sugo 14 Dell Inspiron 530S Mac16,12 chassis (13" MBA) 2009-2012 Mac Pro "Cheese Grater"

OS: Gentoo Linux TrueNAS Scale macOS 26 Tahoe Fedora Linux

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 14" M5P MacBook Pro (work) - iPhone 17 Pro - Apple Watch S11

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, iFlash Solo w/128GB SD Card, Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

 

Vehicles: 2002 Ford F150, 2003 Harley-Davidson Sportster 1200, 2022 Kawasaki KLR650, 1994 DR350SE

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1 minute ago, Zando Bob said:

Clear CMOS, you set the Input voltage far, far too low for the CPU to possibly boot, even into BIOS. 

Okay. So I have a Clear CMOS button the back of the MOBO. Do you just click it at your regular Windows screen? Or do you do it on restart or something? And what does that do? Or should I just look that up?

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Just now, ApexSutton31 said:

Okay. So I have a Clear CMOS button the back of the MOBO. Do you just click it at your regular Windows screen? Or do you do it on restart or something? And what does that do? Or should I just look that up?

Turn the PC on, push it right away. Should reboot once or twice itself, then boot normally at bone stock settings. 

If it's fucked enough sometimes the clear CMOS button doesn't work, then you turn off the PSU with the switch at the back, remove the CMOS battery, hold the power button for 10 seconds to drain the caps as much as possible, then let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Then put the CMOS battery back in, turn on the PSU, it should boot up with a bone stock BIOS again. 

Gaming PC NAS Laptop Workstation

CPU: i5 12600KF 6P+4E Ryzen 7 3700X M4 SoC 4P+6E Xeon X5690 6c12t

Cooler: Noctua NH-D15S Wraith Stealth w/NF-A9 Passive Apple CPU Cooler

Motherboard: ASRock Z690 ITX/ax ASUS Pro B550M-C/CSM Apple J713AP Mac-F221BEC8 (Mac Pro 5,1)

RAM: 2x16GB 3600Mhz DDR4 2x16GB 2400MHz DDR4 24GB Micron LPDDR5 4x8GB 1333MHz ECC DDR3

GPU: Sapphire Pulse Radeon 9060 XT 16GB Radeon WX2100 M4 SoC 10C Radeon RX 5700

Storage: 1TB MP34 + 2TB P41 500GB SSD + 2x4TB IronWolf Pro in ZFS Mirror Apple AP0512Z 1TB Crucial MX500

ODD: LG WH14NS40 None LG GP65NB60 USB DVD Writer Don't know

PSU: EVGA 850W GM Silverstone SST-TX300 53.8Wh LiPo Battery Delta DPS-980BB

Case: Silverstone Sugo 14 Dell Inspiron 530S Mac16,12 chassis (13" MBA) 2009-2012 Mac Pro "Cheese Grater"

OS: Gentoo Linux TrueNAS Scale macOS 26 Tahoe Fedora Linux

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 14" M5P MacBook Pro (work) - iPhone 17 Pro - Apple Watch S11

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, iFlash Solo w/128GB SD Card, Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

 

Vehicles: 2002 Ford F150, 2003 Harley-Davidson Sportster 1200, 2022 Kawasaki KLR650, 1994 DR350SE

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Okay. Because I'm on it and using the PC as we speak. So I don't think it's that bad. But so I'll shut it down, turn it on, push the button and wait to see right? Will it go to the BIOS itself? Or just start up with stock settings all normal on it's own?

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22 hours ago, Zando Bob said:

Turn the PC on, push it right away. Should reboot once or twice itself, then boot normally at bone stock settings. 

If it's fucked enough sometimes the clear CMOS button doesn't work, then you turn off the PSU with the switch at the back, remove the CMOS battery, hold the power button for 10 seconds to drain the caps as much as possible, then let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Then put the CMOS battery back in, turn on the PSU, it should boot up with a bone stock BIOS again. 

Also, sorry about the super late response. I forgot to pull up the forum page after I figured things out. Clearing the CMOS did work. I redid everything and now am stable at 4.7GHz boost at 1.200 volts and 1.300v mesh voltage (i think is what cache is, but with AsRock boards is what I read). I was thinking about pushing it to 1.275 volts and shoot for 4.8 or 4.9GHz, but I'm only running air with a Noctua D-15s, and the highest I'm seeing at Cinebench R20 is 86 C, so idk if I want to push it too much further from there, since it's not delided

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2 minutes ago, ApexSutton31 said:

Also, sorry about the super late response. I forgot to pull up the forum page after I figured things out. Clearing the CMOS did work. I redid everything and now am stable at 4.7GHz boost at 1.200 volts and 1.300v mesh voltage (i think is what cache is, but with AsRock boards is what I read). I was thinking about pushing it to 1.275 volts and shoot for 4.8 or 4.9GHz, but I'm only running air with a Noctua D-15s, and the highest I'm seeing at Cinebench R20 is 86 C, so idk if I want to push it too much further from there, since it's not delided

Yeah you don't wanna push that higher, if you get under an heavy AVX load (R20 is decently intensive but nowhere near some other workloads) your temps will already go wack high, really depends on what you're doing with the CPU. 

Gaming PC NAS Laptop Workstation

CPU: i5 12600KF 6P+4E Ryzen 7 3700X M4 SoC 4P+6E Xeon X5690 6c12t

Cooler: Noctua NH-D15S Wraith Stealth w/NF-A9 Passive Apple CPU Cooler

Motherboard: ASRock Z690 ITX/ax ASUS Pro B550M-C/CSM Apple J713AP Mac-F221BEC8 (Mac Pro 5,1)

RAM: 2x16GB 3600Mhz DDR4 2x16GB 2400MHz DDR4 24GB Micron LPDDR5 4x8GB 1333MHz ECC DDR3

GPU: Sapphire Pulse Radeon 9060 XT 16GB Radeon WX2100 M4 SoC 10C Radeon RX 5700

Storage: 1TB MP34 + 2TB P41 500GB SSD + 2x4TB IronWolf Pro in ZFS Mirror Apple AP0512Z 1TB Crucial MX500

ODD: LG WH14NS40 None LG GP65NB60 USB DVD Writer Don't know

PSU: EVGA 850W GM Silverstone SST-TX300 53.8Wh LiPo Battery Delta DPS-980BB

Case: Silverstone Sugo 14 Dell Inspiron 530S Mac16,12 chassis (13" MBA) 2009-2012 Mac Pro "Cheese Grater"

OS: Gentoo Linux TrueNAS Scale macOS 26 Tahoe Fedora Linux

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 14" M5P MacBook Pro (work) - iPhone 17 Pro - Apple Watch S11

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, iFlash Solo w/128GB SD Card, Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

 

Vehicles: 2002 Ford F150, 2003 Harley-Davidson Sportster 1200, 2022 Kawasaki KLR650, 1994 DR350SE

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4 hours ago, Zando Bob said:

Yeah you don't wanna push that higher, if you get under an heavy AVX load (R20 is decently intensive but nowhere near some other workloads) your temps will already go wack high, really depends on what you're doing with the CPU. 

Yeah, that makes sense. I really only use it for gaming and homework. I used to stream, which is why I thought I need HEDT platform, but clearly I don't and now I'm stuck with the platform. Lol. So I figured why not OC it and get what I can while I have it ya know. But yeah, I don't even fully understand the AVX offset stuff yet either, so I haven't messed with that

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8 minutes ago, ApexSutton31 said:

Yeah, that makes sense. I really only use it for gaming and homework. I used to stream, which is why I thought I need HEDT platform, but clearly I don't and now I'm stuck with the platform. Lol. So I figured why not OC it and get what I can while I have it ya know. But yeah, I don't even fully understand the AVX offset stuff yet either, so I haven't messed with that

Ah lol. Yeah, totally not needed for that workload, but it's fun. I'll eventually get my hands on some used X299 hardware if I have free mons/outgrow X99 (which is what I'm currently on). I have no need for HEDT hardware other than it being fun, and if I eventually get a capture card I don't have to sacrifice PCIe lanes from my GPU or M.2 drive or anything. 

AVX offset is just an auto downclock, when the CPU goes under an AVX load it'll drop to that. Quick tip, if you're ever talking overclocking with hardcore lads, always mention any AVX offset you may have. If you say it's 4.9Ghz stable but then have a 300Mhz AVX offset, it's actually only stable to 4.6Ghz under AVX load (just a spitballed example). Some guys don't mind AVX offsets, others don't like them because your CPU isn't actually 100% stable at the normal clock, since it has to downclock to be stable under AVX. Just best to mention it so people don't get pissy at you. I don't have an AVX offset so I don't have to worry about that lol. Just the masses of heat and extra stress an AVX load brings ?.

Also for any OC, if you have an 8-10 hour stretch where you don't use the PC, leave it to run Prime95 blend or Realbench for that time (AIDA 64 without the FTU or whatever option checked) as a stability test. I thought my 5960X was stable at 4.7GHz with 1.27v, but after 2-3 hours of Realbench it would crash. Needs 1.3v to be fully stable, though tbh I do need to run another 8 hour realbench test or something to be 100% sure. Haven't had any BSODs in any normal use though, just blackscreens but I'm 99.99% sure that's my GPU (AMD's Adrenaline 2020 drivers are pretty terrible, but I've been too lazy to DDU and reinstall the last WQHL version of 2019 drivers, which are actually 100% stable with no random blackscreens). A lot of people run unstable OCs and get occasional BSODs, but then don't mention that when discussing their OCs. 

Basically proper OCs take a long time to be sure they're 100% stable, but once they are then you can flex that rig everywhere with full confidence, which is half the fun of having big boy hardware in the first place ?.

Gaming PC NAS Laptop Workstation

CPU: i5 12600KF 6P+4E Ryzen 7 3700X M4 SoC 4P+6E Xeon X5690 6c12t

Cooler: Noctua NH-D15S Wraith Stealth w/NF-A9 Passive Apple CPU Cooler

Motherboard: ASRock Z690 ITX/ax ASUS Pro B550M-C/CSM Apple J713AP Mac-F221BEC8 (Mac Pro 5,1)

RAM: 2x16GB 3600Mhz DDR4 2x16GB 2400MHz DDR4 24GB Micron LPDDR5 4x8GB 1333MHz ECC DDR3

GPU: Sapphire Pulse Radeon 9060 XT 16GB Radeon WX2100 M4 SoC 10C Radeon RX 5700

Storage: 1TB MP34 + 2TB P41 500GB SSD + 2x4TB IronWolf Pro in ZFS Mirror Apple AP0512Z 1TB Crucial MX500

ODD: LG WH14NS40 None LG GP65NB60 USB DVD Writer Don't know

PSU: EVGA 850W GM Silverstone SST-TX300 53.8Wh LiPo Battery Delta DPS-980BB

Case: Silverstone Sugo 14 Dell Inspiron 530S Mac16,12 chassis (13" MBA) 2009-2012 Mac Pro "Cheese Grater"

OS: Gentoo Linux TrueNAS Scale macOS 26 Tahoe Fedora Linux

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 14" M5P MacBook Pro (work) - iPhone 17 Pro - Apple Watch S11

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, iFlash Solo w/128GB SD Card, Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

 

Vehicles: 2002 Ford F150, 2003 Harley-Davidson Sportster 1200, 2022 Kawasaki KLR650, 1994 DR350SE

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7 minutes ago, Zando Bob said:

Ah lol. Yeah, totally not needed for that workload, but it's fun. I'll eventually get my hands on some used X299 hardware if I have free mons/outgrow X99 (which is what I'm currently on). I have no need for HEDT hardware other than it being fun, and if I eventually get a capture card I don't have to sacrifice PCIe lanes from my GPU or M.2 drive or anything. 

AVX offset is just an auto downclock, when the CPU goes under an AVX load it'll drop to that. Quick tip, if you're ever talking overclocking with hardcore lads, always mention any AVX offset you may have. If you say it's 4.9Ghz stable but then have a 300Mhz AVX offset, it's actually only stable to 4.6Ghz under AVX load (just a spitballed example). Some guys don't mind AVX offsets, others don't like them because your CPU isn't actually 100% stable at the normal clock, since it has to downclock to be stable under AVX. Just best to mention it so people don't get pissy at you. I don't have an AVX offset so I don't have to worry about that lol. Just the masses of heat and extra stress an AVX load brings ?.

Also for any OC, if you have an 8-10 hour stretch where you don't use the PC, leave it to run Prime95 blend or Realbench for that time (AIDA 64 without the FTU or whatever option checked) as a stability test. I thought my 5960X was stable at 4.7GHz with 1.27v, but after 2-3 hours of Realbench it would crash. Needs 1.3v to be fully stable, though tbh I do need to run another 8 hour realbench test or something to be 100% sure. Haven't had any BSODs in any normal use though, just blackscreens but I'm 99.99% sure that's my GPU (AMD's Adrenaline 2020 drivers are pretty terrible, but I've been too lazy to DDU and reinstall the last WQHL version of 2019 drivers, which are actually 100% stable with no random blackscreens). A lot of people run unstable OCs and get occasional BSODs, but then don't mention that when discussing their OCs. 

Basically proper OCs take a long time to be sure they're 100% stable, but once they are then you can flex that rig everywhere with full confidence, which is half the fun of having big boy hardware in the first place ?.

Yeah, I hear that. I had an x99 system before this one and I really should've just kept it, but I gave it to my father for his music production that he does. Works amazing for him now! But yeah, I always assumed that was the main idea behind the HEDT setups was the multitude of PCIe lanes if you used them. I'm running a single GPU with two M.2s, so I'm probably nowhere close to exhausting that many lanes. But yeah, the capture card would help a lot, I'm sure.

 

Okay. Yeah, that makes sense. I read a little about the AVX offsets a while back and gathered about the same from that article. I just figured why mess with them, why not just get the overclock legit. But it would make sense as to why you would need to. I'd rather not mess with it, since I don't fully understand though. Lol

 

Yeah, the long term test is what I really need to do. I got it there, but only tests I've done is a bunch of Cinebech R20 runs and some gaming. But I have yet to test anything other than CS:GO, which I'm sure stresses the CPU almost none. Lol. But yeah, Realbench is the Asus CPU test thing I think right? I had that on my x99 system when I messed with that a bit, but haven't tried it on the x299 yet. 

 

Yeah, my real next step is to let it run for a while and see where that goes. That way I can swing those numbers around without doubt, like you said. But we're learning, we're getting there. Slowly but surely. Lol

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6 minutes ago, ApexSutton31 said:

Yeah, I hear that. I had an x99 system before this one and I really should've just kept it, but I gave it to my father for his music production that he does. Works amazing for him now! But yeah, I always assumed that was the main idea behind the HEDT setups was the multitude of PCIe lanes if you used them. I'm running a single GPU with two M.2s, so I'm probably nowhere close to exhausting that many lanes. But yeah, the capture card would help a lot, I'm sure.

Oooo noice. I just have one GPU and one M.2 drive on an add-in card rn, may add another M.2 drive and capture card at some point though. It's nice to at least have the option to comfortably do that lol. X99 does still hold its own, by X299 fixed some issues with it, once of which is the IMC. RAM OCing is masses better on X299 than X99 by all accounts. 
 

6 minutes ago, ApexSutton31 said:

Okay. Yeah, that makes sense. I read a little about the AVX offsets a while back and gathered about the same from that article. I just figured why mess with them, why not just get the overclock legit. But it would make sense as to why you would need to. I'd rather not mess with it, since I don't fully understand though. Lol

Yeah I'd just remove any AVX offset and do it legit, unless you did a lot of AVX stuff but then needed a maybe higher clock in specifically not AVX stuff, but that's too much thinking for me lmao. 
 

6 minutes ago, ApexSutton31 said:

Yeah, the long term test is what I really need to do. I got it there, but only tests I've done is a bunch of Cinebech R20 runs and some gaming. But I have yet to test anything other than CS:GO, which I'm sure stresses the CPU almost none. Lol. But yeah, Realbench is the Asus CPU test thing I think right? I had that on my x99 system when I messed with that a bit, but haven't tried it on the x299 yet. 

Yeah Realbench is ASUS software (it's made by them but hardware agnostic, I use it with my 5960X on an EVGA board), I use it because it's a solid stress test from everything I've observed, but doesn't spit out totally unrealistic temps like Prime95 can (even blend on a loop will hit sections of small FFT, which usually spits out temps 20C or so higher than actual use is, unless you were to do very, very intensive all core AVX loads quite often, then you'd actually hit those temps in normal use). 

CB20 is decent for spotting very glaring instabilities, if it passes CB20 a few times back to back then it's stable-ish, should be able to tweak it to be properly stable around those clocks. It's just so much quicker to open and find any super obvious instabilities than waiting for some other software to come up. 

EDIT: Oof hit post before I meant to lol. On that last part, yeah it's always a learning experience. I thought I was competent at OCing but I've learned a lot recently from some OC groups I've randomly come across, so I'm able to push my CPU more effectively than before. Still need to work on RAM OCing though, I've barely ever done that other than on X58, so I really lack knowledge in that area. 

Gaming PC NAS Laptop Workstation

CPU: i5 12600KF 6P+4E Ryzen 7 3700X M4 SoC 4P+6E Xeon X5690 6c12t

Cooler: Noctua NH-D15S Wraith Stealth w/NF-A9 Passive Apple CPU Cooler

Motherboard: ASRock Z690 ITX/ax ASUS Pro B550M-C/CSM Apple J713AP Mac-F221BEC8 (Mac Pro 5,1)

RAM: 2x16GB 3600Mhz DDR4 2x16GB 2400MHz DDR4 24GB Micron LPDDR5 4x8GB 1333MHz ECC DDR3

GPU: Sapphire Pulse Radeon 9060 XT 16GB Radeon WX2100 M4 SoC 10C Radeon RX 5700

Storage: 1TB MP34 + 2TB P41 500GB SSD + 2x4TB IronWolf Pro in ZFS Mirror Apple AP0512Z 1TB Crucial MX500

ODD: LG WH14NS40 None LG GP65NB60 USB DVD Writer Don't know

PSU: EVGA 850W GM Silverstone SST-TX300 53.8Wh LiPo Battery Delta DPS-980BB

Case: Silverstone Sugo 14 Dell Inspiron 530S Mac16,12 chassis (13" MBA) 2009-2012 Mac Pro "Cheese Grater"

OS: Gentoo Linux TrueNAS Scale macOS 26 Tahoe Fedora Linux

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 14" M5P MacBook Pro (work) - iPhone 17 Pro - Apple Watch S11

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, iFlash Solo w/128GB SD Card, Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

 

Vehicles: 2002 Ford F150, 2003 Harley-Davidson Sportster 1200, 2022 Kawasaki KLR650, 1994 DR350SE

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