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Poor cooling performance with H100i and i7-4790K

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Installed some washers. Water block is now rock solid on the CPU.

Max. temperature with no overclock using Prime95 (small FFT) is now 67 degrees C.

 

It's also quite warm here today, around 24 degrees C in my office, so I think that's pretty acceptable.

Think that Corsair might need to add a few washers to their installation kit........

Hi All,

 

Just wondering if anyone can help me.

 

I've recently built a new gaming rig using the following components:

ASUS Z97 Deluxe

i7-4790K

H100i cooler

AX860i PSU

Fractal Design R4

Club3D R9 290 Royal Ace

 

For cooling, I've got the stock Fractal Design fans in the rear and bottom of the case.

Rear fan is extracting. Bottom fan in blowing air upwards at graphics card.

 

In the front, I've got 2 x 140mm Noctua NF-A14 PWMs.

On the H100i, I've got 2 x Noctua NF-F12 PWMs in push configuration. 

 

All fans are being controlled from motherboard headers, with appropriate settings for DC/PWM in BIOS.

I gave up on having the H100i control it's fans, as the CorsairLink software is so flaky. In the latest version,

it won't even recognise that the 860i is connected.

 

Right now, I've got no overclocks running, and I'm seeing much higher than expected CPU temperatures.

Ambient temperature is 22 degrees C.

At idle, CPU cores (as read by RealTemp v3.70) are reading 34, 32, 33, 33 degrees C.

Under load with Prime95 (small FFT), temperatures reach 75, 73, 74, 69 degrees C.

 

Based on figures I've seen on the forum here, and elsewhere I was expecting temps at least 10 degrees C cooler.

When I attempted a 4.6GHz auto overclock using Ai Suite 3, then CPU temps on all but one core reached Tj Max (100 degrees C). Not good!

 

Again, some of this could be down to the way that the overclock is being performed, and the higher than needed voltage.

However, others are reporting much lower temperatures using the same overclock mechanism (see http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/177169-temps-running-prime95/).

 

I've removed the cooling block, cleaned both CPU and block with Arctic Silver cleaner and finisher, tinted both components, and then used Arctic Silver 5 when putting it all back together. Temperatures did drop a degree or so, but nothing major.

 

Something I did notice is that it's seems almost impossible to clamp down the cooling block, such that you can't move it around on top of the CPU. It seems to me that the rubber gromits on the backplate are not thick enough to allow a firm clamp down (I've noticed some folks say to use additional rubber washers). If I can't get a good thermal interface with the H100i, then I'm thinking of going for the Noctua NH-D14 instead.

 

Would be interested to know what folks think, as I'm rapidly running out of patience with Corsair (useless support for this, and the CorsairLink problems) and the H100i.

 

Thanks,

 

Andy.

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[ wow lots of text] 

 

I've removed the cooling block, cleaned both CPU and block with Arctic Silver cleaner and finisher, tinted both components, and then used Arctic Silver 5 when putting it all back together. Temperatures did drop a degree or so, but nothing major.

 

Something I did notice is that it's seems almost impossible to clamp down the cooling block, such that you can't move it around on top of the CPU. It seems to me that the rubber gromits on the backplate are not thick enough to allow a firm clamp down (I've noticed some folks say to use additional rubber washers).

 

Interesting. If you tried new thermal compound, and tightening the block as much as you can then it might just be worth getting a new cooler if you want to overclock that high.

"Rawr XD"

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The fact that it will move so easily worries me. Mine is super tight on my CPU, and the temps are very good.

 

Is there anything in the clamping steps that you're missing? (I'm not sure, but I installed into a Corsair 400R case, worked fine)

Git Gud.

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-snip-

52C delta seems high to you?

If you want lower temperatures then don't leave it at stock, undervolt it.

Stock just auto-volts, meaning it'll be stable but not as cool or as power efficient as possible.

If it doesn't seem that it's properly secured to the motherboard via the backplate you may want to look into the way you mounted it and check to make sure you did so correctly.

Linus Sebastian said:

The stand is indeed made of metal but I wouldn't drive my car over a bridge made of it.

 

https://youtu.be/X5YXWqhL9ik?t=552

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To be honest those temps are only a little higher than what I got on my H100i with no overclocks. But that was a 4770k...

PC: 4770K @ 4.0 GHz --- Maximus VI Hero --- 8 GB 2133 MHz Corsair Vengeance Pro --- EVGA 780 TI Classified @ 1300 MHz --- Samsung Evo 250 GB --- Corsair RM 750 --- Corsair Carbide Air 540 --- CM Storm Rapid-I (MX Blues with PMK Evergreen Keycaps) --- Windows XP --- Razer Naga --- Custom Loop Parts: 380I, EKWB 780 Classy Waterblock and Backplate, 240mm and 360mm XT45, Swiftech MCP655, EKWB multi option reservoir, Mayhems Pastel Red, Primochill Primoflex Advanced Clear Tubing, 5 SP 120 Quiet Editions --- Mobile: Surface Pro 3 (i5 128gb) with JD40 (MX Clears) and Microsoft Sculpt Mouse --- Galaxy S6

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Get some MX4, its better than arctic silver 5.

Do the washers trick, that usually solves all problems.

 

What was the voltage when you overclocked to 4.6GHz?

NEW PC build: Blank Heaven   minimalist white and black PC     Old S340 build log "White Heaven"        The "LIGHTCANON" flashlight build log        Project AntiRoll (prototype)        Custom speaker project

Spoiler

Ryzen 3950X | AMD Vega Frontier Edition | ASUS X570 Pro WS | Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB | NZXT H500 | Seasonic Prime Fanless TX-700 | Custom loop | Coolermaster SK630 White | Logitech MX Master 2S | Samsung 980 Pro 1TB + 970 Pro 512GB | Samsung 58" 4k TV | Scarlett 2i4 | 2x AT2020

 

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Did you remove the plastic sticker thing that they put on the waterblock? 

Specs: CPU - Intel i7 8700K @ 5GHz | GPU - Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 Gaming | Motherboard - ASUS Strix Z370-G WIFI AC | RAM - XPG Gammix DDR4-3000MHz 32GB (2x16GB) | Main Drive - Samsung 850 Evo 500GB M.2 | Other Drives - 7TB/3 Drives | CPU Cooler - Corsair H100i Pro | Case - Fractal Design Define C Mini TG | Power Supply - EVGA G3 850W

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Guys plz dont quote the OP, especially when it is a really long post.

You -snip- the text out of the quote, or use the @username, or just have a simple reply since the OP will get the notification when someone replies.

NEW PC build: Blank Heaven   minimalist white and black PC     Old S340 build log "White Heaven"        The "LIGHTCANON" flashlight build log        Project AntiRoll (prototype)        Custom speaker project

Spoiler

Ryzen 3950X | AMD Vega Frontier Edition | ASUS X570 Pro WS | Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB | NZXT H500 | Seasonic Prime Fanless TX-700 | Custom loop | Coolermaster SK630 White | Logitech MX Master 2S | Samsung 980 Pro 1TB + 970 Pro 512GB | Samsung 58" 4k TV | Scarlett 2i4 | 2x AT2020

 

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Guys plz dont quote the OP, especially when it is a really long post.

You -snip- the text out of the quote, or use the @username, or just have a simple reply since the OP will get the notification when someone replies.

I did snip the quote. 

"Rawr XD"

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Thanks for the rapid replies. Much appreciated.

 

In answer to the questions above:

 

- I've checked the mounting, ensured that the backplate is the correct way up, and that I'm using the correct stand offs, It just seems to me that the rubber gromits on the backplate aren't quite thick enough to allow firm clamping given the thickness of my motherboard (possibly thinner than others?)

 

- I've removed the sticker from the water block.

 

- Voltage peaks at 1.365V, which seems quite high to me.

 

All I'm really trying to establish is if the temperatures when not overclocked are typical. I'm thinking not, based on the much lower temps that I've seen others get with the same CPU and cooler.

 

I don't really want to be pulling it all apart again to insert rubber washers or different compound, if it's not going to make any difference.

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Installed some washers. Water block is now rock solid on the CPU.

Max. temperature with no overclock using Prime95 (small FFT) is now 67 degrees C.

 

It's also quite warm here today, around 24 degrees C in my office, so I think that's pretty acceptable.

Think that Corsair might need to add a few washers to their installation kit........

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