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Why is this happening?

So recently I try to upgrade my CPU cooler from the stock one to a hyper 212x turbo and now my pc boots up for about 2 seconds and turns off. I did everything that has been recommended, remove ram, reinstall etc. I even took out the mb and try to run as barebone as possible, it didn't change anything. I eventually gave up and install the stock CPU cooler and it turns on normally. Just wondering what I can do at this point, returning is not an option since I had the cooler for over a year (been to lazy to try to install it)

 

build

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/BJ7dtg

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did you remove the plastic from the side that touches the IHS and did you use thermal paste?

I spent $2500 on building my PC and all i do with it is play no games atm & watch anime at 1080p(finally) watch YT and write essays...  nothing, it just sits there collecting dust...

Builds:

The Toaster Project! Northern Bee!

 

The original LAN PC build log! (Old, dead and replaced by The Toaster Project & 5.0)

Spoiler

"Here is some advice that might have gotten lost somewhere along the way in your life. 

 

#1. Treat others as you would like to be treated.

#2. It's best to keep your mouth shut; and appear to be stupid, rather than open it and remove all doubt.

#3. There is nothing "wrong" with being wrong. Learning from a mistake can be more valuable than not making one in the first place.

 

Follow these simple rules in life, and I promise you, things magically get easier. " - MageTank 31-10-2016

 

 

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if it turns on and stays on for a while before turning off and sometimes turning on again by itself, that's usually memory issues preventing the boot.

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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Are you making sure to tighten the screws gradually in a X-pattern instead of one side before the other?

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11 minutes ago, Princess Cadence said:

if it turns on and stays on for a while before turning off and sometimes turning on again by itself, that's usually memory issues preventing the boot.

It turns on, fans and rgb, for about 2 secs and shuts down it keeps doing this unless I turnoff personally. Remove all 4 sticks and try to run it with 1, changing which one each time.

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3 minutes ago, WoodenMarker said:

Are you making sure to tighten the screws gradually in a X-pattern instead of one side before the other?

Yup criss cross

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runs with stock cooler(inc with CPU purchase) but doesn't run with 212X...

 

hmmn,  either something is wrong and heat plate isn't getting good contact with CPU. or your not installing it right. But seeing as the 212 was fairly straight forward to install like most heatsinks, i can only really imagine that the CPU shroud holder thing part is interfering with a solid cpu contact pressure.

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12 minutes ago, Neo-revo said:

runs with stock cooler(inc with CPU purchase) but doesn't run with 212X...

 

hmmn,  either something is wrong and heat plate isn't getting good contact with CPU. or your not installing it right. But seeing as the 212 was fairly straight forward to install like most heatsinks, i can only really imagine that the CPU shroud holder thing part is interfering with a solid cpu contact pressure.

Could it be I'm just screwing it too tightly? 

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in this case try to just place 212 cooler on top of cpu, no paste no fan connect, &no screws for testing, if that fails too.... try boot without a cooler to get past 2 sec shut down

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read the manual, does it say any thing along those lines?

 

plus if you over tighten one corner first (past the point where its now tilting down)  the other screws will try to do the same,

 

it is worth a go.   (i personally only used the 212 series on amd, and their stock hold down is quite versatile/functional) 

i do though have a lot of exp with different water-block mounting systems and  over tightening could be an issue if there is nothing stopping it from doing want i mean.

 

it would be worth a shot to try only tightening each one a bit (to hold in place) and then criss-crossign but not 'bottoming out' or trying to any ways, it is the paste that makes the connection, not extra screwed tightness

 

 

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39 minutes ago, Neo-revo said:

read the manual, does it say any thing along those lines?

 

plus if you over tighten one corner first (past the point where its now tilting down)  the other screws will try to do the same,

 

it is worth a go.   (i personally only used the 212 series on amd, and their stock hold down is quite versatile/functional) 

i do though have a lot of exp with different water-block mounting systems and  over tightening could be an issue if there is nothing stopping it from doing want i mean.

 

it would be worth a shot to try only tightening each one a bit (to hold in place) and then criss-crossign but not 'bottoming out' or trying to any ways, it is the paste that makes the connection, not extra screwed tightness

 

 

Will do, thanks

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