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MacBook Air 11 not powering on.

Hi, my MacBook Air 11 inch is not powering on no matter what. I am a fairly tech nerd person, but it is at 100% battery according to my charger, and the power isn’t working. Now, when I shut it down, it took a really long time to shut down. I was a little confused, but I opened it up to clean out the fan with some compressed air. But now, it won’t turn on. I don’t even see the screen turning the lighter black that it normally does on startup. Please respond ASAP as it is my only mobile computer, and I use it constantly every day, for school and work. Please don’t tell me to buy a pc, I don’t like windows 10, 8, or 7. I also need MacOS for most things I do on a laptop. My windows desktop simply can’t be used four days out of the week, as ima kid (well, technically) and my parents are divorced.

 

Thank you to anyone who responds with a helpful comment. Eve if it is to tell me that it is dead, I should get a job, and actually buy a decent computer, even if it is another Mac

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That was a roller coaster 

 

IIRC you should be able to power cycle if you hold down the power button for like 15 seconds

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CPU: R5 3600 || GPU: RTX 3070|| Memory: 32GB @ 3200 || Cooler: Scythe Big Shuriken || PSU: 650W EVGA GM || Case: NR200P

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6 minutes ago, Slottr said:

That was a roller coaster 

 

IIRC you should be able to power cycle if you hold down the power button for like 15 seconds

I have held it Dow. For 15 seconds already I, but I’ll try again

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7 minutes ago, Slottr said:

That was a roller coaster 

 

IIRC you should be able to power cycle if you hold down the power button for like 15 seconds

 Stupid AutoCorrect 

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Do you get a chime when you go to power on?

Laptop: 2019 16" MacBook Pro i7, 512GB, 5300M 4GB, 16GB DDR4 | Phone: iPhone 13 Pro Max 128GB | Wearables: Apple Watch SE | CPU: R5 2600 | Mobo: ASRock B450M Pro4 | RAM: 16GB 2666 | GPU: ASRock RX 5700 8GB | Case: Apple PowerMac G5 | OS: Win 10 | Storage: 480GB PNY SSD & 2TB WD Green HDD | PSU: Corsair CX600M | Display: Dell 27 Gaming Monitor S2719DGF 1440p @155Hz, Dell UZ2215H 21.5" 1080p, ViewSonic VX2450wm-LED 23.6" 1080p | Cooling: Wraith Prism | Keyboard: G610 Orion Cherry MX Brown | Mouse: G303 | Audio: Audio Technica ATH-M50X & Blue Snowball
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Nop

1 hour ago, DrMacintosh said:

Do you get a chime when you go to power on?

It does not

 

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I would say at this point this issue isn’t going to be fixed by us. This might be a board level issue. 

 

Do you have any local PC/Mac repair shops around? They might be able to help you and should charge a reasonable rate. 

Laptop: 2019 16" MacBook Pro i7, 512GB, 5300M 4GB, 16GB DDR4 | Phone: iPhone 13 Pro Max 128GB | Wearables: Apple Watch SE | CPU: R5 2600 | Mobo: ASRock B450M Pro4 | RAM: 16GB 2666 | GPU: ASRock RX 5700 8GB | Case: Apple PowerMac G5 | OS: Win 10 | Storage: 480GB PNY SSD & 2TB WD Green HDD | PSU: Corsair CX600M | Display: Dell 27 Gaming Monitor S2719DGF 1440p @155Hz, Dell UZ2215H 21.5" 1080p, ViewSonic VX2450wm-LED 23.6" 1080p | Cooling: Wraith Prism | Keyboard: G610 Orion Cherry MX Brown | Mouse: G303 | Audio: Audio Technica ATH-M50X & Blue Snowball
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Reasonable? Ha

3 minutes ago, DrMacintosh said:

I would say at this point this issue isn’t going to be fixed by us. This might be a board level issue. 

 

Do you have any local PC/Mac repair shops around? They might be able to help you and should charge a reasonable rate. 

Yeah, I’ll do that. I have a local Mac repair shop. But, could I buy a logic board and cpu and etc, and then stick it in my old one, taking the storage, battery and she’ll with me?

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Just now, XeLiath said:

But, could I buy a logic board and cpu and etc, and then stick it in my old one, taking the storage, battery and she’ll with me?

Absolutely. You could remove the storage drive and buy a replacement motherboard as long as it’s the same model as your current one. 

 

I would imagine it would be cheaper to get it repaired though. I would get a quote from the shop first and then see what the cost difference would be from buying a new board vs. just getting the one you have now repaired. 

Laptop: 2019 16" MacBook Pro i7, 512GB, 5300M 4GB, 16GB DDR4 | Phone: iPhone 13 Pro Max 128GB | Wearables: Apple Watch SE | CPU: R5 2600 | Mobo: ASRock B450M Pro4 | RAM: 16GB 2666 | GPU: ASRock RX 5700 8GB | Case: Apple PowerMac G5 | OS: Win 10 | Storage: 480GB PNY SSD & 2TB WD Green HDD | PSU: Corsair CX600M | Display: Dell 27 Gaming Monitor S2719DGF 1440p @155Hz, Dell UZ2215H 21.5" 1080p, ViewSonic VX2450wm-LED 23.6" 1080p | Cooling: Wraith Prism | Keyboard: G610 Orion Cherry MX Brown | Mouse: G303 | Audio: Audio Technica ATH-M50X & Blue Snowball
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28 minutes ago, DrMacintosh said:

Absolutely. You could remove the storage drive and buy a replacement motherboard as long as it’s the same model as your current one. 

 

I would imagine it would be cheaper to get it repaired though. I would get a quote from the shop first and then see what the cost difference would be from buying a new board vs. just getting the one you have now repaired. 

Hey, do you know if I can swap the drives in a 2013, 2014, and 2015 MacBook Air 11? Because I might get a 2015, or a 2013, and I want to use my current drive.

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1 minute ago, XeLiath said:

Hey, do you know if I can swap the drives in a 2013, 2014, and 2015 MacBook Air 11? Because I might get a 2015, or a 2013, and I want to use my current drive.

Even if the drives are compatible, the power delivery and physical shape might be different. 

 

What model MacBook Air do you have? Should be able to find the model number on the bottom case. 

Laptop: 2019 16" MacBook Pro i7, 512GB, 5300M 4GB, 16GB DDR4 | Phone: iPhone 13 Pro Max 128GB | Wearables: Apple Watch SE | CPU: R5 2600 | Mobo: ASRock B450M Pro4 | RAM: 16GB 2666 | GPU: ASRock RX 5700 8GB | Case: Apple PowerMac G5 | OS: Win 10 | Storage: 480GB PNY SSD & 2TB WD Green HDD | PSU: Corsair CX600M | Display: Dell 27 Gaming Monitor S2719DGF 1440p @155Hz, Dell UZ2215H 21.5" 1080p, ViewSonic VX2450wm-LED 23.6" 1080p | Cooling: Wraith Prism | Keyboard: G610 Orion Cherry MX Brown | Mouse: G303 | Audio: Audio Technica ATH-M50X & Blue Snowball
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I have a A1645, EMC 2631. It thinks it is a 2014, but I think it is a 2013

 

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