Is this psu good enough?

[Ed.Nev]

Hi, I currently have a areocool intergrator 500w with a gtx 1060 6gb and i5 8400

Is this a good enough gpu for higher end graphics cards?

Will it be able to handle any of the new RTX graphics cards?

 

Also it says this on the side of the psu what does this mean?

Dc output +3.3V +5V +12V -12V +5Vsb

Max current 18A 16A 38A 0.3A 2.5A

Max combined 110W 456W 3.6W 12.5W 

It says this on the side of the psu what does this all mean?

[Takuan]

Hi Ed.Nev

 

Your PSU should be able to just handle it (maybe), but in the end it depends on what you might otherwise have in your case. If you have this PSU, GPU, CPU and motherboard plus say a few SSDs, and an HDD etc. then you might soon run out of power/wattage. Especially if you are doing any kind of overclocking. I suggest that you do a calculation:

 

Cooler Master: http://www.coolermaster.com/power-supply-calculator/

OuterVision: https://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator

 

You can find a lot more calculators on the internet, but these should give you at least a clue to which (more or less power/wattage) PSU you need.

 

About the RTX cards, I guess we will have to wait for further reviews, benchmarks etc. before answering that question.

[seon123]

From Kitguru's review of the 600W

Quote

Secondary capacitors are all sourced from lesser brands in China and are a mixture of 85c and 105c rated.

https://www.kitguru.net/components/power-supplies/zardon/aerocool-integrator-600-watt-psu-review/7/

85°C rated secondary caps are a no no.

And that's all you need to know. It's complete garbage and should not be used. You can afford a 1060 and an 8400, you can spend the $40 to get a PSU that isn't complete crap. 

[Jaggsta]

why would trust non name brand PSU With GTX 1060 it could fry whole system you can get EVGA bronze power supply pretty cheap

[seon123]

2 minutes ago, Jaggsta said:

why would trust non name brand PSU With GTX 1060 it could fry whole system you can get EVGA bronze power supply pretty cheap

Aerocool has a decent PSU, the Project 7. Don't judge by brand, judge by the product. Like the terrible EVGA N1, W1, B1, B3, BV, BR, G1, NEX B, NEX G and G1. All of those are terrible, and several of them are the cheap EVGA Bronze PSUs you recommended. EVGA does have many good PSUs too. And neither of those make any difference to whether or not the other products are good or not.

14 minutes ago, Takuan said:

. I suggest that you do a calculation:

 

Cooler Master: http://www.coolermaster.com/power-supply-calculator/

OuterVision: https://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator

All PSU calculators are crap and overestimate by a ton. In general, you get closer to the true power draw if you halve the result from the calculator. With a 1060 system, OP will draw about 200W. They issue isn't the wattage, it's the PSU. 

[Ed.Nev]

6 minutes ago, seon123 said:

From Kitguru's review of the 600W

https://www.kitguru.net/components/power-supplies/zardon/aerocool-integrator-600-watt-psu-review/7/

85°C rated secondary caps are a no no.

And that's all you need to know. It's complete garbage and should not be used. You can afford a 1060 and an 8400, you can spend the $40 to get a PSU that isn't complete crap. 

I bought this pc pre built under warranty from a secure company.....

Also the psu costs £32 new  ($41) 

Haven't had any issues yet.....

The 500W version has 8.9* reviews.

Surely it isn't as bad as you say.

[seon123]

Just now, Ed.Nev said:

I bought this pc pre built under warranty from a secure company.....

Also the psu costs £32 new  ($41) 

Haven't had any issues yet.....

The 500W version has 8.9* reviews.

Surely it isn't as bad as you say.

I don't care where you bought it. Stores are made to make money, not to give you good products for low prices. 

That's about £40 more than the PSU should cost. 

And how do you know that? Have you measured the ripple and regulation? And how about in the case that something eventually goes wrong, like a capacitor failing? Which I will assure you, will happen. You won't know, unless you have an oscilloscope. 

8,9 stars from which credible reviewers? Consumer reviews mean nothing. They don't have load testers and oscilloscopes. They don't even have a way to properly test for the noise, or fan RPM, which are the least technical and most noticeable thing about PSUs for normal consumers. 

[Ed.Nev]

2 minutes ago, seon123 said:

I don't care where you bought it. Stores are made to make money, not to give you good products for low prices. 

That's about £40 more than the PSU should cost. 

And how do you know that? Have you measured the ripple and regulation? And how about in the case that something eventually goes wrong, like a capacitor failing? Which I will assure you, will happen. You won't know, unless you have an oscilloscope. 

8,9 stars from which credible reviewers? Consumer reviews mean nothing. They don't have load testers and oscilloscopes. They don't even have a way to properly test for the noise, or fan RPM, which are the least technical and most noticeable thing about PSUs for normal consumers. 

Dude leave it be.....

[Takuan]

Hi Ed.Nev

 

As written in my first post above, I suggested you to use the calculators. You could use more than one and make your own average or decision based on what you find. A calculator is just that, so whatever the result is, it will only be a hint to where you may be heading using your particular setup. Many say the results are too high, some say other things etc. I don't really care about that. My only reason for suggesting this to you was the fact that I don't know what you have in your system. Further, it is better - at least to some degree - to have a PSU in any system with some overhead. If you need say 500W (whichever way it might be calculated), I suggest you get a bigger PSU. A PSU with overhead has also more room for running cooler and of course quieter. If expansion is an option sometime down the road, it is nice to have overhead as well so you don't end up having one PSU on your shelf and another one in your system. In that case, it is better to buy the latter in the beginning anyway.

 

In your case, I guess you are "stuck" with your PSU as I understand it to be a pre built system. Like I wrote above, I think you are OK, but I am guessing, as I do not know what else you might have in your system. I do not know if you are overclocking, have 5 SSDs in there or whatever. In any case, if you have no overclock, if you have perhaps only one SSD in your system and this GPU, CPU etc. as you have mentioned, I think you will be just fine (just).

[Takuan]

Let me add that I don't know the brand of the GPU you are talking about, but on ASUS' website, the absolute minimum recommendation is a 500W PSU for this card. So like I wrote above, you might be JUST ok using your mentioned PSU. But if I personally were to build a system with this CPU, GPU, a few fans an SSD or two (perhaps one as HDD) etc. I would not go less than 600W, and depending on the price difference between the PSUs available (wattage and brand), I might even go for a 750W or similar. I always like to have some overhead, so in my smallest systems I have running at the moment I don't have any PSU with less than 860W even though I might have been fine with a 600W PSU.

 

When I build a system I always use Corsair for my PSU. I have never ever had any issues with them, and they are commonly available where I live. I do all sorts of things like overclocking, I maxes out the motherboard (with peripherals etc.) so I am very picky with my PSU as it is indeed a common place of failure if it turns out to be of bad quality. In my opinion this is not the part where you should go cheap. On the contrary. I use Corsair because of my good experience with them, but I can't say that I have had bad experiences with other brands. I simply never used any other. I stick with Corsair as long as they do the job and are of good (great) quality. If that were to change, I will try another brand. In any case, choice of whatever brand for any build (part) is subjective. I use Corsair, some other bloke uses EVGA, and yet a third one uses a third brand. So it is your choice.

 

I hope you find a solution and that you will be happy with your system.

Good luck.

[seon123]

23 minutes ago, Takuan said:

As written in my first post above, I suggested you to use the calculators. You could use more than one and make your own average or decision based on what you find. A calculator is just that, so whatever the result is, it will only be a hint to where you may be heading using your particular setup. Many say the results are too high, some say other things etc. I don't really care about that.

You should care about that. PSU brands have higher margins on higher wattage PSUs, so they want to sell more of those. 

24 minutes ago, Takuan said:

Further, it is better - at least to some degree - to have a PSU in any system with some overhead. If you need say 500W (whichever way it might be calculated), I suggest you get a bigger PSU. A PSU with overhead has also more room for running cooler and of course quieter. If expansion is an option sometime down the road, it is nice to have overhead as well so you don't end up having one PSU on your shelf and another one in your system. In that case, it is better to buy the latter in the beginning anyway.

Nope. Overhead does not give real benefits. Let's take the G3 as an example. 

We'll look at the 550W and 1000W versions. Both use the same platform.

The 550W runs the fan at 1220RPM at an 80W load, and at 1640RPM at a 550W load. And that's a fairly loud PSU.

Now, according to you, the 1000W should be much quieter. Let's check. 

At an 80W load, it runs the fan at 1540RPM. Already a lot louder. At a 500W load, lower than the 550W PSU's load, it runs the fan at 1700RPM. You have to go down to a 400W load before you get close to the 550W version's RPM at a 550W load. 

With a 550W PSU, you can run a Vega or Fury X without issues when overclocked. Getting a higher wattage PSU will just be noisier (of you like that, that's on you, I'm not judging too much). If you get a 750W PSU for a single GPU system, you get a louder PSU that you paid more for, that has more potential do destroy stuff in case of a failure, and no benefits at all, because the 550W could run the exact same stuff.

31 minutes ago, Takuan said:

I think you will be just fine (just).

The issue with OP's PSU isn't the wattage, it's the PSU itself. It's crap. 

10 minutes ago, Takuan said:

the absolute minimum recommendation is a 500W PSU for this card.

That's because they assume a worst case scenario, with a garbage PSU. If you had a good 250-300W PSU, you would run the card without any issues. Any PSU from any decent brand is rated to run at full power 24/7 at the max rated temperature for the entirety of its warranty. That's what continuous means. 

13 minutes ago, Takuan said:

but I can't say that I have had bad experiences with other brands. I simply never used any other

So you have no real point of comparison. Great. 

13 minutes ago, Takuan said:

I stick with Corsair as long as they do the job and are of good (great) quality.

Any brand can sell crappy PSUs. Corsair has the VS and green label CX. 

14 minutes ago, Takuan said:

In any case, choice of whatever brand for any build (part) is subjective.

No. It's not subjective, it's irrelevant. Outside of availability and customer support, you judge by the product, not by brand. 

 

 

I have no issue with other people giving advice; I have an issue with people spreading misinformation. 

[Stefan Payne]

5 hours ago, Ed.Nev said:

Hi, I currently have a areocool intergrator 500w with a gtx 1060 6gb and i5 8400

Is this a good enough gpu for higher end graphics cards?

Will it be able to handle any of the new RTX graphics cards?

No its shit and should be replaced...

It bad enough that its possible to cause trouble or maybe even damage...

3 hours ago, Takuan said:

Your PSU should be able to just handle it (maybe), but in the end it depends on what you might otherwise have in your case.

No, because the Wattage is irrelevant and the quality of the PSU is what counts, at least for normal Single CPU/GPU Desktop PCs, you're fine with even 300W PSU, if its a good quality one (wich doesn't exist, those start at 400W)-

3 hours ago, Takuan said:

I suggest that you do a calculation:

 

Cooler Master: http://www.coolermaster.com/power-supply-calculator/

OuterVision: https://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator

1. I sugest you get a Powermeter and actually measure your PC and then do a calculation

2. is it the same shit both times and Outervision overestimates by a mile or two.

 

Guess what an i7-3930K with RX480 (1330MHz) IIRC 4 Sticks of Memory or 6 with an SSD and a 7200rpm HDD consumes. 

According to those pieces of shit I'd need a 600W or more when in reality its just 350W.

 

And @STRMfrmXMN has a status update where he did a calculation and measured his PC.

 

3 hours ago, Takuan said:

You can find a lot more calculators on the internet, but these should give you at least a clue to which (more or less power/wattage) PSU you need.

No, they don't as they are off by a grand cannyion.

And the only thing that's somewhat OKish is the be quiet one but only if you use it in Basic mode. Even then its just a guess and not a reflection of reality...

 

 

3 hours ago, Ed.Nev said:

I bought this pc pre built under warranty from a secure company.....

Yes, from a *very nice* store that either is totally incompetent and has no clue about PSU or does it out of malice because they hope that the PSU kills your components and you come back after 3 years or so and buy another one. and another one and so on...

 

And what is a "secure Company"??

 

3 hours ago, Ed.Nev said:

Also the psu costs £32 new  ($41) 

Yes, totally overpriced.

A be quiet System Power 9 should be about the same (400W) and quality whise soo much better...

 

3 hours ago, Ed.Nev said:

Haven't had any issues yet.....

Oh that one caused any issues a week before the photos:

 

So because it caused no issues a week before, it had to be great, right?

Because it worked...

 

3 hours ago, Ed.Nev said:

The 500W version has 8.9* reviews.

Surely it isn't as bad as you say.

Sorry, but you don't have any idea what you are talking about.

Are you talking this way with your Car Mechanic as well? Do you tell them what to do when you come to them when your cars does some things it shouldn't do??

 

1 hour ago, Takuan said:

As written in my first post above, I suggested you to use the calculators.

You should educate yourself on those and read some reviews that actually measure power consumption, input that into the calculators and see how wrong they are...

My guess would be +200W or more....

 

1 hour ago, Takuan said:

You could use more than one and make your own average or decision based on what you find. A calculator is just that, so whatever the result is, it will only be a hint to where you may be heading using your particular setup. Many say the results are too high, some say other things etc. I don't really care about that.

So you don't care if you give a person asking for help to give them wrong advice?? 

 

Ähm, SRYSLY?!

 

Those "Calculators" are off by somewhere between 50 and 100%.

They throw around a 650W number or more while in reality you could live with a 400 or 450W PSU!

 

And I rather have a 450W Bitfenix Formula than a 650W Corsaur CX or even some group regulated shit!

The quality is more important than the Wattage!

And in general, you can say for all mainstream Socket systems with one Graphics card (even high end one), 400 and 450W is enough w/o OC. 550W with a bit of OC. 650W is useless bullshit in 9,5 out of 10 cases. Andin that half case you would get the 750W version anyway. Because they offer a better plattform/better unit for higher wattage or even way more connectors. Just look at the 650W be quiet Straight Power 11. Why the hell would you choose that over the 750W version?! 

 

[Stefan Payne]

2 hours ago, Takuan said:

Let me add that I don't know the brand of the GPU you are talking about, but on ASUS' website, the absolute minimum recommendation is a 500W PSU for this card.

Irrelevant as they can't recommend specific PSU or be precise in other ways. 

Many of this recommendations are just legal reasons, not technical. And that might be a problem.

 

And you can't write 400W with DC-DC and 2% or less voltage regulation and 33A on +12V as that would be too complicated for the majority of the potential users.

 

 

2 hours ago, Takuan said:

So like I wrote above, you might be JUST ok using your mentioned PSU.

No, because Wattage is irrelevant, the way the PSU works is what counts. 

And there are for example if +12V and +5V are dependent on each other or not. With this, everything that happens on +5V influences +12V and vice versa.

 

With that, it doesn't work with Sleep mode as exactly that is a problem.

2 hours ago, Takuan said:

I would not go less than 600W, and depending on the price difference between the PSUs available (wattage and brand), I might even go for a 750W or similar.

SRYSLY?!

I have to be blunt here right now:

GET a Powermeter and measure YOUR PC! They cost like 5-15 Bucks! They sometimes even get thrown at you. Even in decent quality they work OK.

And don't start with the "but its most efficient at 50%" fairy tale. Its not really true. And with many modern PSU the Efficiency line is rather flat and the difference between like 30 and 60, sometimes 70% is negligable. We are talking about something around half to a whole per cent.

That is barely outside the measurement tolerance. Is that really worth banging your head for?! no, its not. 

 

WIth that said, 750W is something you'd want with at least two high end graphics cards. Though for testing, you can even use a 550W (And yes, I've tested two R9-280x/7970GHz and a Ryzen 7/1700x with a Cougar GX-F 550W) and that is with Prime and Heaven Benchmark.

 

2 hours ago, Takuan said:

I always like to have some overhead, so in my smallest systems I have running at the moment I don't have any PSU with less than 860W even though I might have been fine with a 600W PSU.

They'd probably be fine with 400W as well...

 

As the "Overhead" doesn't give you any advantage at all, it only puts money in the pockets of the manufacturer. And besides that does nothing for you.

 

As mentioned by @seon123 higher wattage units with the same PCB and also heatsink usually don't have any lower fanspeed at any load its, at best, the same but usually higher on the higher wattage 

 

[STRMfrmXMN]

42 minutes ago, Stefan Payne said:

snip to end all snips

JUST BOOKMARK IT ALREADY DUDE

[STRMfrmXMN]

4 hours ago, Ed.Nev said:

Dude leave it be.....

No, he shouldn't leave it be, because you don't know anything about your PSU, which is why you're coming here for advice. The common advice from people that know what they're talking about is "get rid of that pile of garbage Aerocoll unit" because the thing is worthy of a fire extinguisher. Secondary caps at 85C is already a big red flag, but the fact that the PCB is sparser than a desert is a very worrisome sign as well. Stores will sell whatever PSUs sell and a lot of people will just buy the cheapest unit that claims to provide the power they think they need, so the stores will keep them in stock.

 

You absolutely need to replace that unit if you want to ensure that all of your hardware lasts a long time. A Corsair CX450/CX450M is inexpensive and would do exactly that.