Mayhems Blitz Kit Help Water White After 5 Drains?

[Shadowman]

Ok please if anyone can help this is getting frustrating. So I used the Mayhems Blitz kit done part 1 according to the instructions provided with the kit, know the annoying part is PART 2 where you have to add part 2 to distilled water and run the system  for 12 to 24 hours continuously (which I have done.) After this you have to drain it out and put just distilled water 3 more times letting the system  run 1 hour each time, know I have drained the water out 5 times and put distilled water for the 6th time and the water is still turning white straight away??? I mean how many times do I have to do this to get the water clear I mean obviously that white water is foam that is still in there. 

[W-L]

1 hour ago, Shadowman said:

Ok please if anyone can help this is getting frustrating. So I used the Mayhems Blitz kit done part 1 according to the instructions provided with the kit, know the annoying part is PART 2 where you have to add part 2 to distilled water and run the system  for 12 to 24 hours continuously (which I have done.) After this you have to drain it out and put just distilled water 3 more times letting the system  run 1 hour each time, know I have drained the water out 5 times and put distilled water for the 6th time and the water is still turning white straight away??? I mean how many times do I have to do this to get the water clear I mean obviously that white water is foam that is still in there. 

What are your components of your loop? It should foam a little but from the rinses but if your fluid is turning completely milk white from rinses something is wrong. 

[Shadowman]

24 minutes ago, W-L said:

What are your components of your loop? It should foam a little but from the rinses but if your fluid is turning completely milk white from rinses something is wrong. 

 Hi, it's 1x 360 radiator and 1 cpu water block that am running the flush on. I will admit I was using distilled water from Mayhems H20 after the water went white straight away it did after about 2-3 minutes started getting clear BUT then I  run out of distilled water and the only one I could get was deionized water. Know whats happening is it's not going clear at all even after 2 - 3 minutes just stays  white and I mean really white looks like a white coolant. I don't know if i should have just stuck to distilled water as I said it was clearing after 2 - 3 minutes but in Mayhems instructions it does say i can use distilled or deionized water. 

[W-L]

53 minutes ago, Shadowman said:

 Hi, it's 1x 360 radiator and 1 cpu water block that am running the flush on. I will admit I was using distilled water from Mayhems H20 after the water went white straight away it did after about 2-3 minutes started getting clear BUT then I  run out of distilled water and the only one I could get was deionized water. Know whats happening is it's not going clear at all even after 2 - 3 minutes just stays  white and I mean really white looks like a white coolant. I don't know if i should have just stuck to distilled water as I said it was clearing after 2 - 3 minutes but in Mayhems instructions it does say i can use distilled or deionized water. 

Can you take a photo of the drained fluid if it's just due to aeration of the water and just tiny little micro bubbles it's not a problem but if it's a physical color change then I would worry about what is causing that reaction.

 

Also what components are they specifically as in brand and product name. 

[Shadowman]

13 minutes ago, W-L said:

Can you take a photo of the drained fluid if it's just due to aeration of the water and just tiny little micro bubbles it's not a problem but if it's a physical color change then I would worry about what is causing that reaction.

 

Also what components are they specifically as in brand and product name. 

 

Yes sorry should have mentioned that the fluid drained is  NOT WHITE it's clear, it's when the pump is running and the water is flowing it's white in the reservoir and the tube, see both picture below thanks. 

 

 

DRAINED WATER: 

 

 

 

WHEN RUNNING SAME COLOUR IN TUBE AS WELL

 

 

[W-L]

1 minute ago, Shadowman said:

 

Yes sorry should have mentioned that the fluid drained is  NOT WHITE it's clear, it's when the pump is running and the water is flowing it's white in the reservoir and the tube, see both picture below thanks.  

That sounds like something in your loop is the problem by introducing air. Try filling up the res up past the internal tube, right now it's potentially causing splashing and bubbles to be recirculated around your loop. 

 

If you rinse your loop and see no further color change and the PH level tested are neutral then it's something with the loop itself and not the kit. 

[Shadowman]

32 minutes ago, W-L said:

That sounds like something in your loop is the problem by introducing air. Try filling up the res up past the internal tube, right now it's potentially causing splashing and bubbles to be recirculated around your loop. 

 

If you rinse your loop and see no further color change and the PH level tested are neutral then it's something with the loop itself and not the kit. 

 

Ok so tried another thing minus rad + cpu block, res & pump ONLY. Out of pump back in res and see the picture below......

 

 

 

 

[W-L]

Just now, Shadowman said:

 

Ok so tried another thing minus rad + cpu block, red & pump out of pump back in res and see the picture below.....

What pump combo unit is that? 

 

Also top it off even more all the way to the top with only a little air gap with that kind of sloshing you need to have it so it veneer gets any possible air.

[Shadowman]

Know what am thinking is maybe run tap water in the Radiator,  reservoir & pump maybe it is foam after all? 

[W-L]

4 minutes ago, Shadowman said:

Know what am thinking is maybe run tap water in the Radiator,  reservoir & pump maybe it is foam after all? 

I'm pretty certain your reintroducing air into the loop, and not foam, as said what specific pump combo unit is that?

 

Also top off the res to see if that makes a difference. 

Edited August 5, 2018 by W-L

[Shadowman]

5 minutes ago, W-L said:

I'm pretty certain your reintroducing air into the loop, and not foam, as said what specific pump combo unit is that?

 

Also top off the res to see if that makes a difference. 

That's a bitspower premium d5 mod top with bitpower reservoir. The pump is a Koolance 450s with speed controller but I have it on low not 24v. 

[W-L]

2 minutes ago, Shadowman said:

That's a bitspower premium d5 mod top with bitpower reservoir. The pump is a Koolance 450s with speed controller but I have it on low not 24v. 

To try and eliminate variables remove the drain port and directly hook to the outlet of the pump and test again with it topped off as much as possible. inspect the orings to see if any are damaged even if they are brand new. 

[Shadowman]

15 minutes ago, W-L said:

To try and eliminate variables remove the drain port and directly hook to the outlet of the pump and test again with it topped off as much as possible. inspect the orings to see if any are damaged even if they are brand new. 

 

First of all I would like to thanks you I really appreciate you taking the time to help me. 

Ok so update washed the Reservoir with some good old tap water  and what do you know

 

 

 

YES it's clear i didn't change anything, except wash with tap water. Know adding the radiator wonder what will happen? but am thinking giving that a good old tap water treatment.

The only thing is my PH level won't be good am sure, but can i run it with tap water and then last 2 maybe flushes with distilled water? I don't have any left or deionised water even. 

[W-L]

1 minute ago, Shadowman said:

 

First of all I would like to thanks you I really appreciate you taking the time to help me. 

Ok so update washed the Reservoir with some good old tap water  and what do you know

 

YES it's clear i didn't change anything, except wash with tap water. Know adding the radiator wonder what will happen? but am thinking giving that a good old tap water treatment.

The only thing is my PH level won't be good am sure, but can i run it with tap water and then last 2 maybe flushes with distilled water? I don't have any left or deionised water even. 

Hmm that's very weird, I didn't expect it to have changed with tap water, just as a test try lowering the fluid level just below the internal tube to see if that causes it to come back. You can rinse it all out with tap water and do a final few rinses with distilled to remove any minerals left from the tap water. 

[Shadowman]

9 minutes ago, W-L said:

Hmm that's very weird, I didn't expect it to have changed with tap water, just as a test try lowering the fluid level just below the internal tube to see if that causes it to come back. You can rinse it all out with tap water and do a final few rinses with distilled to remove any minerals left from the tap water. 

 

Definitely weird! but it's all CLEAR after draining out again and filling below the internal tube as you said, even on full speed 24v with the Koolance 450s pump water is staying clear hell even looks more clear when on full blast lol. 

 

 

[Shadowman]

Know am really starting to believe  it's the foam??? 

[W-L]

18 minutes ago, Shadowman said:

Know am really starting to believe  it's the foam??? 

Maybe something residual that kept circulating?  I would still do a quick PH test after the final rinse with de-ionized to make sure everything is safe and ready to be assembled for fluid. 

[Shadowman]

2 minutes ago, W-L said:

Maybe something residual that kept circulating?  I would still do a quick PH test after the final rinse with de-ionized to make sure everything is safe and ready to be assembled for fluid. 

 As far as am aware PH level should be between 6 to 8 right?

[Shadowman]

 

Am gonna be really honest I was kinda expecting this. After adding the radiator & cpu water block water went white again, well not really white like before but a  bit lighter I would say.

 

 

[W-L]

8 minutes ago, Shadowman said:

 As far as am aware PH level should be between 6 to 8 right?

Yes, ideally right at around 7PH which is neutral. Most distilled and de-ionized water will be a little acidic so 6-7PH but once you add the concentrate or additive it should be slightly basic. 

 

1 minute ago, Shadowman said:

 

Am gonna be really honest I was kinda expecting this. After adding the radiator & cpu water block water went white again, well not really white like before but a a bit light I would say.

Hmm, try doing the tap water rinse for everything to see if it is something up with the deionized water, I really doubt it would be it but after cleaning with tap water and refilling with deionized if it still does that it may be something reacting with the residue. 

[Shadowman]

14 minutes ago, W-L said:

Yes, ideally right at around 7PH which is neutral. Most distilled and de-ionized water will be a little acidic so 6-7PH but once you add the concentrate or additive it should be slightly basic. 

 

Hmm, try doing the tap water rinse for everything to see if it is something up with the deionized water, I really doubt it would be it but after cleaning with tap water and refilling with deionized if it still does that it may be something reacting with the residue. 

 

You know I feel so stupid right know I mentioned everything well I thought i did. After I run out of the distilled water which was making the water go white but like mentioned in my second  post would go clear after 2 -3 minutes. Anyways when i run out I used Mayhems X1 CLEAR coolant but that still was making it white,  when I did get the deionized water (5 bottles) the water would just stay white not clear. Know am thinking maybe it was the X1 coolant? and maybe it would have cleared eventually if I hadn't run out of the distilled water?

[Shadowman]

Ok so just before rinsing the radiator with tap water I thought i'll drain and just fill it up with tap water, since it was kinda becoming lighter white colour and what do you know.

 

 

It did not turn white at all stayed clear even on the fastest pump settings it stayed clear. So what does this mean either it was De-Ionised Water or the Mayhems X1 Clear coolant but to be honest the X1 i only used once but this damn De-Ionised Water I used over 6 times and was white water every single time? and the fact if it was the X1 the De-Ionised Water should have got rid of it I mean I used it over 6 times unless there was a reaction to the X1 I don't know. 

 

 

 

 

 

[W-L]

26 minutes ago, Shadowman said:

Ok so just before rinsing the radiator with tap water I thought i'll drain and just fill it up with tap water, since it was kinda becoming lighter white colour and what do you know.

It did not turn white at all stayed clear even on the fastest pump settings it stayed clear. So what does this mean either it was De-Ionised Water or the Mayhems X1 Clear coolant but to be honest the X1 i only used once but this damn De-Ionised Water I used over 6 times and was white water every single time? and the fact if it was the X1 the De-Ionised Water should have got rid of it I mean I used it over 6 times unless there was a reaction to the X1 I don't know. 

Before was it just mayhems X1? That might have been the problem it must have reacted with the Part 2 when it wasn't completely cleared and flushed out.

 

It seems to me there must have been some residue or some sort left in both the rads and res units to cause that, at least that's what I can think of. Just to make double sure all the components are copper, nickel or brass, no aluminum at all? 

Edited August 6, 2018 by W-L

[Shadowman]

8 minutes ago, W-L said:

Before was it just mayhems X1? That might have been the problem it must have reacted with the Part 2 when it wasn't completely cleared and flushed out.

 

It seems to me there must have been some residue or some sort left in both the rads and res units to cause that, at least that's what I can think of. Just to make double sure all the components are copper, nickel or brass, no aluminum at all? 

 

NO aluminum!!! both the rads were actually new so not used yet both are Black ice nemesis GTX

[W-L]

2 minutes ago, Shadowman said:

 

NO aluminum!!! both the rads were actually new so not used yet both are Black ice nemesis GTX

Ok you shouldn't have a problem then. If there was residual Part 2 and X1 mixed together the biocides and anticorrosives in the MayehmsX1 must have been what caused that frothing or foaming to occur.

 

In any case it seems that everything is sorted out, give it a good couple flushes with the de-ionized water, if it doesn't come back and the PH test is good you should be alright to fill it with the Mayhems X1.