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Is a Dual PSU Possible (in my case)

LookAss

So, i just upgraded my old pc to a lga 1155 board with a 1050 Ti and have a shit ton of spare parts. And my broke friend wants a pc that can do some gaming. I have 4 ancient PC's (one is really old but not old as the rest of them+ 2 of them are not at my place), The build is: Gigabyte lga 775 board, Pentium E5700 3.0GHz, Asus gtx 6502GB (the version that doesn't require any aditional power connectors) a 60GB SSD, a 40GB and a 320GB HDD. The problem is the PSU.1 PC has a 230W PSU,2. has a 160W PSU,3. probably has a 300W PSU (not sure) and the 4th probably has one which is less than 300W (almost certain). I saw at a yt video Dual PSU's. He didn't plug the 4 pin connectors in the adapter and the psus dont have 2 4pin connector, just one for the CPU and the motherboard uses a 20pin. So I could get the motherboard working and have enough PSU power to power the PC. Just want some opinions on this if this is possible or just a really dumb idea thats gona let the magic smoke out.

 

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You can plug the ATX connector of one PSU into the motherboard and EPS connector from another one, just use a jumper to short the one without the ATX connector connected so it stays on.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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No, dual PSUs is just not safe.

 

What are the PSU models? 300W should be enough, but depends on the model.

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26 minutes ago, Comic_Sans_MS said:

No, dual PSUs is just not safe.

 

What are the PSU models? 300W should be enough, but depends on the model.

I don't know if it's 300W. Just if it isn't is dual PSU a option.

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1 hour ago, Jurrunio said:

You can plug the ATX connector of one PSU into the motherboard and EPS connector from another one, just use a jumper to short the one without the ATX connector connected so it stays on.

On a scale from 1-10 how likely it is that it'll let the magic smoke out. I don't care for the PSU's at all but it would suck if the rest of the components die+ I could get electricuted and die from it.

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Idk I used to have some weird thing where I had everything powering a pc normally but the gpu was powered from another pc and it ran fine without any problems

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Not recommended obviously but it should be fine until you can afford something decent

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LAPTOP: Dell XPS 15 7590

TABLET: iPad Pro

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2 hours ago, LookAss said:

So, i just upgraded my old pc to a lga 1155 board with a 1050 Ti and have a shit ton of spare parts. And my broke friend wants a pc that can do some gaming. I have 4 ancient PC's (one is really old but not old as the rest of them+ 2 of them are not at my place), The build is: Gigabyte lga 775 board, Pentium E5700 3.0GHz, Asus gtx 6502GB (the version that doesn't require any aditional power connectors) a 60GB SSD, a 40GB and a 320GB HDD. The problem is the PSU.1 PC has a 230W PSU,2. has a 160W PSU,3. probably has a 300W PSU (not sure) and the 4th probably has one which is less than 300W (almost certain). I saw at a yt video Dual PSU's. He didn't plug the 4 pin connectors in the adapter and the psus dont have 2 4pin connector, just one for the CPU and the motherboard uses a 20pin. So I could get the motherboard working and have enough PSU power to power the PC. Just want some opinions on this if this is possible or just a really dumb idea thats gona let the magic smoke out.

 

In a world where CX/CXM units go on sale for $25 on a semi-regular basis, this is a terrible and unnecessarily risky idea.

I enjoy buying junk and sinking more money than it's worth into it to make it less junk.

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18 minutes ago, aisle9 said:

In a world where CX/CXM units go on sale for $25 on a semi-regular basis, this is a terrible and unnecessarily risky idea.

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CPU: Core i9 12900K || CPU COOLER : Corsair H100i Pro XT || MOBO : ASUS Prime Z690 PLUS D4 || GPU: PowerColor RX 6800XT Red Dragon || RAM: 4x8GB Corsair Vengeance (3200) || SSDs: Samsung 970 Evo 250GB (Boot), Crucial P2 1TB, Crucial MX500 1TB (x2), Samsung 850 EVO 1TB || PSU: Corsair RM850 || CASE: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini || MONITOR: Acer Predator X34A (1440p 100hz), HP 27yh (1080p 60hz) || KEYBOARD: GameSir GK300 || MOUSE: Logitech G502 Hero || AUDIO: Bose QC35 II || CASE FANS : 2x Corsair ML140, 1x BeQuiet SilentWings 3 120 ||

 

LAPTOP: Dell XPS 15 7590

TABLET: iPad Pro

PHONE: Galaxy S9

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59 minutes ago, LookAss said:

On a scale from 1-10 how likely it is that it'll let the magic smoke out. I don't care for the PSU's at all but it would suck if the rest of the components die+ I could get electricuted and die from it.

9 if you're the one doing it. you dont sound like you know how to do it properly at all.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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1 hour ago, LookAss said:

I don't know if it's 300W. Just if it isn't is dual PSU a option.

You didn't answer my question, and I said no...

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It is possible but you shouldn't do it if you don't know how those PSUs work, first you'll need something that can balance the load on both units, then join both signal wires together

 

The guy in the video did an amateur job, not to mention that tape thing he did, mounting the second PSU using the rear fan holes is much easier and safe than that.

1. Removing all of the useless wiring (whole ATX connector except for the signal) is better

2. 5V lamps (Incandescent, not LEDs) are great dummy loads used to balance rails

3. Molex to PCIE adapters are crap. While removing the unused cables you can also attach a connector to the board itself.

 

Don't do it if you're unsure or lack tools.

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