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Did I just kill my 1080Ti?

SnipeYa
By SnipeYa
in Custom Loop and Exotic Cooling
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Just installed an EK block on my asus 1080ti strix and put it in my rig to test, Idle temps were 25 degrees then all of a sudden the screen went grey. Rebooted to a QCode of 62, Put my 750Ti in and it boots fine. Put the 1080ti back in after that and it seemed to have booted except with no display?

It dead? Is there some way of recovering it? Is this just a good excuse to get a titan XP?

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put the stock cooler back on meanwhile check the board for some damage and see if that helps

mY sYsTeM iS Not pErfoRmInG aS gOOd As I sAW oN yOuTuBe. WhA t IS a GoOd FaN CuRVe??!!? wHat aRe tEh GoOd OvERclok SeTTinGS FoR My CaRd??  HoW CaN I foRcE my GpU to uSe 1o0%? BuT WiLL i HaVE Bo0tllEnEcKs? RyZEN dOeS NoT peRfORm BetTer wItH HiGhER sPEED RaM!!! dId i WiN teH SiLiCON LotTerrY? yOu ShoUlD dEsHrOuD uR GPU. my SYstEm iS UNDerPerforMiNg iN WarzONE. can mY Pc Run WiNdOwS 11 ?? woUld BaKInG MY GRaPHics card fIX it? MultimETeR TeSTiNG!! aMd'S GpU DrIvErS aRe as goOD aS NviDia's YOU SHoUlD oVERCloCk yOUR ramS To 5000C18

 

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I think you may shortend your card. i put a waterblock on my 1080ti myself. Or u might tightend a screw too far. Try to remove and re-apply your block.

|| CPU: I7 6950X @4.6 (1.35V) || Cooler: CUSTOM EK LOOP || Motherboard: ASUS RAMPAGE V EDITION 10

|| GPU: 2x Vega 64 Strix OC @1762 / 1100 MHz || Memory: 16GB G.Skill Royal RGB 3200 Mhz ||

HDD: Segate Barracuda 3TB || SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 512 GB || PSU: Corsair HX 1200 W || Case: Fractal Design Define R6 Gunmetal || Fans: Corsair HD120 (x4) / BeQuiet Silent Wings 3 (x4) || Monitor: ACER XF27HU ||

Second Monitor: BENQ RL2455HM || Mouse: Logitech G502 Pretus Core || Keyboard: Logitech G810 Orion Spectrum || Headphones: Sennheiser IE80 ||

 

                                                                                                          Buildlog expirience swapping to x99: 

 

 

 

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8 minutes ago, whoisit1118 said:

Just to make sure, did your gfx go grey while idling or under load?

Idle

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Posted (edited)
16 minutes ago, SnipeYa said:

Idle

Are yoy using the EK backplate?

 

Look here, sounds vaguely similar

 

Edited by For Science!

Recent builds:  Meshify C (Zero Tolerance!) & View 37 (Breathable Quad 2080Ti + 2990WX)

Best documented PC coolants

Older Builds

Spoiler

Full-custom loop builds: Meshify C (Full custom loop SLI), Ncase M1(8700K + 1080Ti Full custom loop)  Obsidian 900D (1950X + Quad 1080Ti) & Fractal Define C (1080 in SLI)

Air-cooled builds Air 740D (1920X + Quad 980Ti) & Fractal Define C (Version Air!)

 

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39 minutes ago, SnipeYa said:

Just installed an EK block on my asus 1080ti strix and put it in my rig to test, Idle temps were 25 degrees then all of a sudden the screen went grey. Rebooted to a QCode of 62, Put my 750Ti in and it boots fine. Put the 1080ti back in after that and it seemed to have booted except with no display?

It dead? Is there some way of recovering it? Is this just a good excuse to get a titan XP?

Well don't run it.... it could be  a short .. card may not be dead yet

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Prolly bad install. Never killed one myself. Backplates are a common issue I hear 

Main RIg Corsair Air 540, I7 9900k, ASUS ROG Maximus XI Hero, G.Skill Ripjaws 3600 32GB, 3090FE, EVGA 1000G5, Acer Nitro XZ3 2560 x 1440@240hz 

 

Spare RIg Lian Li O11 AIR MINI, I7 4790K, Asus Maximus VI Extreme, G.Skill Ares 2400 32Gb, EVGA 1080ti, 1080sc 1070sc & 1060 SSC, EVGA 850GA, Acer KG251Q 1920x1080@240hz

 

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Yep its the backplate, Anyone come up with a fix for it? The back of the card looks kinda gross without one on and the stock one is no longer compatible.

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11 minutes ago, SnipeYa said:

Yep its the backplate, Anyone come up with a fix for it? The back of the card looks kinda gross without one on and the stock one is no longer compatible.

Apparently putting a plastic washer does the trick, although if you're up for it I would be super interested to see if this thermal pad is in the wrong place. The place highlight in red is where the manual has it (you can see the grease). My hypothesis is that if you move it so that it covers the blue region, then it would be okay (idea being that the backplate is touching these SMCs).

 

Untitledsss.thumb.png.6e763b8b36ccfc414ae9f0c6406687e0.png

Recent builds:  Meshify C (Zero Tolerance!) & View 37 (Breathable Quad 2080Ti + 2990WX)

Best documented PC coolants

Older Builds

Spoiler

Full-custom loop builds: Meshify C (Full custom loop SLI), Ncase M1(8700K + 1080Ti Full custom loop)  Obsidian 900D (1950X + Quad 1080Ti) & Fractal Define C (1080 in SLI)

Air-cooled builds Air 740D (1920X + Quad 980Ti) & Fractal Define C (Version Air!)

 

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1 minute ago, For Science! said:

Apparently putting a plastic washer does the trick, although if you're up for it I would be super interested to see if this thermal pad is in the wrong place. The place highlight in red is where the manual has it (you can see the grease). My hypothesis is that if you move it so that it covers the blue region, then it would be okay (idea being that the backplate is touching these SMCs).

 

Although rather unrelated, but possible, you can see on my bitspower block on my 1080 (so note, different card, different block) but you can see on the most bottom thermal pad, its the equivalent SMCs that the thermal pad is meant to be touching, not some random region of the PCB next to the SMCs. I think putting washers is not a good solution because then you're lifting the whole backplate off the thermal pads and defeats the point (if any) of having a backplate apart from aesthetics.

 

20180209_214045.thumb.jpg.ec2b2878b4719b20ae3382e757f52bb2.jpg

Recent builds:  Meshify C (Zero Tolerance!) & View 37 (Breathable Quad 2080Ti + 2990WX)

Best documented PC coolants

Older Builds

Spoiler

Full-custom loop builds: Meshify C (Full custom loop SLI), Ncase M1(8700K + 1080Ti Full custom loop)  Obsidian 900D (1950X + Quad 1080Ti) & Fractal Define C (1080 in SLI)

Air-cooled builds Air 740D (1920X + Quad 980Ti) & Fractal Define C (Version Air!)

 

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1 hour ago, For Science! said:

Apparently putting a plastic washer does the trick, although if you're up for it I would be super interested to see if this thermal pad is in the wrong place. The place highlight in red is where the manual has it (you can see the grease). My hypothesis is that if you move it so that it covers the blue region, then it would be okay (idea being that the backplate is touching these SMCs).

 

Untitledsss.thumb.png.6e763b8b36ccfc414ae9f0c6406687e0.png

I moved it there last night, It worked but still had some serious issues (crazy artifacting and no Asus software was aware of the card).

 

I'll get in contact with EK once I get home from work tonight and see what they have to say.

 

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Bad news guys, Spotted this little bugger broken off when I plugged the card in and got qcode 62 again

 

What the heck can I do about this guys?

IMG_20180220_165748.jpg

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58 minutes ago, SnipeYa said:

Bad news guys, Spotted this little bugger broken off when I plugged the card in and got qcode 62 again

 

What the heck can I do about this guys?

 

You're SOL, you need a hot air station to solder that back on.

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3 hours ago, SnipeYa said:

Bad news guys, Spotted this little bugger broken off when I plugged the card in and got qcode 62 again

 

What the heck can I do about this guys?

IMG_20180220_165748.jpg

these capacitors tend to be directionless so you van start by just taping it down. if it works consider soldering but bw careful, its quite close to the memory. 

 

I did something similar, althlough my card was okay

 

 

Recent builds:  Meshify C (Zero Tolerance!) & View 37 (Breathable Quad 2080Ti + 2990WX)

Best documented PC coolants

Older Builds

Spoiler

Full-custom loop builds: Meshify C (Full custom loop SLI), Ncase M1(8700K + 1080Ti Full custom loop)  Obsidian 900D (1950X + Quad 1080Ti) & Fractal Define C (1080 in SLI)

Air-cooled builds Air 740D (1920X + Quad 980Ti) & Fractal Define C (Version Air!)

 

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I managed to do the same thing to my 1080ti, never had it happen to another card, feel like the solder on pascal is kinda weak. 

Anywho, I managed to "solder" mine back on with some wire glue: https://www.amazon.com/Silver-Conductive-Electrically-Adhesive-Repair/dp/B06XBCLHT8/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1519127381&sr=8-9&keywords=wire+glue

 

Very hard to do without getting too much on but after around 30 mins I got it on and my card worked fine. Long burn to dry out the glue and I've never had a problem since.

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2 hours ago, Generallee said:

You're SOL, you need a hot air station to solder that back on.

Any way of sending it somewhere to be fixed?

 

OR selling the broken card for any cash towards a titan?

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I've got it soldered back in place but it still doesn't seem to be working. 

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14 minutes ago, SnipeYa said:

 

Any way of sending it somewhere to be fixed?

 

OR selling the broken card for any cash towards a titan?

Well any repair shop with decent tools can perform the repair for cheap, just don't loose that smd

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Just now, SnipeYa said:

I've got it soldered back in place but it still doesn't seem to be working. 

There is quite a chance it died when you turned it on with that component not attached

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Bring it to a repair shop that repairs motherboards.Bring the unsoldered transistor and the card with you.They will see what the transistor is and replace it with new one.If the card doesn't runafter this yoou have serious problem with your card.

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Anyone want to buy a broken 1080Ti or used water block? ?

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I bet the card got messed up when you ran it with components shorted out by the back plate.

CPU: Intel i7 3970X @ 4.7 GHz  (custom loop)   RAM: Kingston 1866 MHz 32GB DDR3   GPU(s): 2x Gigabyte R9 290OC (custom loop)   Motherboard: Asus P9X79   

Case: Fractal Design R3    Cooling loop:  360 mm + 480 mm + 1080 mm,  tripple 5D Vario pump   Storage: 500 GB + 240 GB + 120 GB SSD,  Seagate 4 TB HDD

PSU: Corsair AX860i   Display(s): Asus PB278Q,  Asus VE247H   Input: QPad 5K,  Logitech G710+    Sound: uDAC3 + Philips Fidelio x2

HWBot: http://hwbot.org/user/tame/

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