I think my H110i GTX Is Dead. Can Anyone Confirm If My TS Steps Were Correct?

[Volkamar]

OK, so upon closer inspection of my CPU Cooler, I am being led to believe that the Pump is dead.

* I have toggled between Quiet and Performance on the Pump Controls in Corsair LINK. It doesn't seem to make any noticeable difference in performance and audibly there is no difference or sign the pump is working any harder or not.
* The Radiator is slightly cool to the touch, yet the Pipes themselves especially toward the middle of the pumps feel warm and almost hot.

* Feeling the Pipes, there is no noticeable vibrations going on, even when switching the Pump settings between Quiet/Performance.
* Feeling the CPU Block there doesn't seem to be any noticeable vibrations.

* These are probably the best idling temps I've seen. Normally they can be 5-10 degrees higher just from having Chrome and Skype open and nothing else. When editing these temps end up going to the 100's and even the fans on the highest settings they don't seem to shift any of the heat.
* The CPU Block itself is screwed in tight, and the connections were checked to verify this.

All this leads me to believe that the Pump isn't doing anything and that I am lucky that it is allowing the computer to even work at all. What's more Corsair seem to be very quiet concerning this, I sent them concerns of temps like this weeks ago, and have yet to get a response from them, which doesn't inspire much confidence in their customer service tbh. Is there anything I might be missing, or do the signs and things I've checked all point to what I fear?

[Crunchy Dragon]

Try applying power to the pump and seeing if it'll run, as well as listening closely to see if you can hear the coolant flowing through the pump/radiator

 

[dcgreen2k]

If it's under warranty, get a new one. If it isn't, then you'll need to get a new cooler, because the pump is probably dead.

[WebPlayz]

1 minute ago, Volkamar said:

OK, so upon closer inspection of my CPU Cooler, I am being led to believe that the Pump is dead.

* I have toggled between Quiet and Performance on the Pump Controls in Corsair LINK. It doesn't seem to make any noticeable difference in performance and audibly there is no difference or sign the pump is working any harder or not.
* The Radiator is slightly cool to the touch, yet the Pipes themselves especially toward the middle of the pumps feel warm and almost hot.

* Feeling the Pipes, there is no noticeable vibrations going on, even when switching the Pump settings between Quiet/Performance.
* Feeling the CPU Block there doesn't seem to be any noticeable vibrations.

* These are probably the best idling temps I've seen. Normally they can be 5-10 degrees higher just from having Chrome and Skype open and nothing else. When editing these temps end up going to the 100's and even the fans on the highest settings they don't seem to shift any of the heat.
* The CPU Block itself is screwed in tight, and the connections were checked to verify this.

All this leads me to believe that the Pump isn't doing anything and that I am lucky that it is allowing the computer to even work at all. What's more Corsair seem to be very quiet concerning this, I sent them concerns of temps like this weeks ago, and have yet to get a response from them, bunch of cockwombles that they are. Is there anything I might be missing, or do the signs and things I've checked all point to what I fear?

Change the speed of it on your Motherboard. And Feel it. Make sure thermal paste is good. And If its tight enough.

[iamdarkyoshi]

@Corsair Joseph Might be able to help

 

Whats odd though is that it is reading an RPM, and those motors usually physically have to rotate to get a tach pulse...

[Volkamar]

6 minutes ago, Crunchy Dragon said:

Try applying power to the pump and seeing if it'll run, as well as listening closely to see if you can hear the coolant flowing through the pump/radiator

 

I have tried that, and adjusting the speeds via the motherboard, and it doesn't seem to have done much in terms of difference. Temps still the same. Nothing audible coming from the pipes and the pump. No vibrations. Same heat in the pipes that I mentioned before.

[Crunchy Dragon]

Just now, Volkamar said:

I have tried that, and adjusting the speeds via the motherboard, and it doesn't seem to have done much in terms of difference. Temps still the same. Nothing audible coming from the pipes and the pump. No vibrations. Same heat in the pipes that I mentioned before.

It's probably dead

[Volkamar]

9 minutes ago, iamdarkyoshi said:

@Corsair Joseph Might be able to help

 

Whats odd though is that it is reading an RPM, and those motors usually physically have to rotate to get a tach pulse...

I thought it weird too, but I never really questioned it, I merely saw it as a quiet and performance mode rather than looking at the revs and whatnot. But either way, I hope this man can help, because I might just have to cut my losses if I can't get this thing returned and that's going to be me £100 out of pocket.

[iamdarkyoshi]

1 minute ago, Volkamar said:

I thought it weird too, but I never really questioned it, I merely saw it as a quiet and performance mode rather than looking at the revs and whatnot. But either way, I hope this man can help, because I might just have to cut my losses if I can't get this thing returned and that's going to be me £100 out of pocket.

Corsair's reps on the forum usually respond fairly quickly.

[Volkamar]

2 minutes ago, iamdarkyoshi said:

Corsair's reps on the forum usually respond fairly quickly.

Just getting a hold of someone would be a great step up from the deafening silence I've been getting so far on the matter. Though to be on the safe side, I have also emailed the store I got the part from to see if there is anything that can be done also.

[Rolling Potatoe]

Sounds like the pump doesnt work properly anymore.

Try powering the pump directly with 12v instead of the mobo, maybe the fan header is screwed up?

If it doesnt turn on try a warrenty replacement. 

 

If all of that doesnt work and you are left with a broken cooler you can:

1. Open up the pump and investigate what is wrong + maybe fix what is wrong.

2. Get a cheap 5-10$ pump  and some zip ties

and just add that to the aio loop.

Resealing the loop with minimal air is a bit tricky, but should be possible. 

[Volkamar]

After much tinkering and reapplying thermal paste for the second time, I think I might have solved the problem. Which has... actually left me more confused than ever, because now I'm paranoid I have no feeling in my hands or my H110i is just that vibration-resistant. Pretty much went ahead and tinkered with the Pump RPM some more, and this time, it actually caused some noticable drops. After that, I immediately ripped the Cooler out, checked through all the parts and applyed some of the NH-14 stuff that came recommended (maybe the stuff I got just wasn't good or I applied it wrong the first time), and now I'm getting temps like this whilst rendering a 1080p 60fps video at 26k bitrate.

Couple questions though, does anyone know if there is any reason not to have the pump on "Performance" mode all the time? Also, would it be worth ditching the fans that come with the Cooler to keep things even frostier or is the difference not high enough to warrant it?

[Corsair Nick]

These temps look much better than the first ones.  The pump RPM looks fine in both screenshots, so it might have been a trapped air bubble causing the pump temps to rise and not cool efficiently. I would just keep an eye on it for a couple days, but it looks like everything is cleared up.  You can leave the pump in either setting.  Quiet is more for users that want a lower RPM and less noise.  There is some vibration, ever so slight, that can be heard depending on the build.

 

The stock fans do a decent job at cooling things off and moving air, but upgraded fans are available separately for purchase.  If you want the best performance, the ML140's would be the way to go.  Higher efficiency at lower RPM's for a quiet and cool PC.

[Volkamar]

16 hours ago, Corsair Nick said:

These temps look much better than the first ones.  The pump RPM looks fine in both screenshots, so it might have been a trapped air bubble causing the pump temps to rise and not cool efficiently. I would just keep an eye on it for a couple days, but it looks like everything is cleared up.  You can leave the pump in either setting.  Quiet is more for users that want a lower RPM and less noise.  There is some vibration, ever so slight, that can be heard depending on the build.

 

The stock fans do a decent job at cooling things off and moving air, but upgraded fans are available separately for purchase.  If you want the best performance, the ML140's would be the way to go.  Higher efficiency at lower RPM's for a quiet and cool PC.

Thanks for the response.

The Air Bubble might actually explain it, since when I noticed that the Pump itself might be okay (when I got the noticeable different this time around), I took the whole thing out and put it back in again then reapplied the Thermal Paste. So if there was a bubble, that would've done the trick in dislodging it. I'm keeping an eye on it now, and just had an update of Corsair LINK which seems to have given me a bunch more variables to look at.



Quick question as to what the Motherboard temps actually mean here, since there's a bunch of new ones I don't recognise immediately. Are those temps all green? I notice there's one sitting in the 100s but I am unsure if that is meant to be the case of not, as I am unsure what it is monitoring there.

[Corsair Nick]

Where those sensors are on the board, not sure, as Link is designed to report readings in the format the motherboard provides.  This would be the same as most other monitoring software.  If you think that the temp reading is reported wrong by Link, you can always double check with another monitor software just to confirm.

[Volkamar]

On 17/11/2017 at 9:36 PM, Corsair Nick said:

Where those sensors are on the board, not sure, as Link is designed to report readings in the format the motherboard provides.  This would be the same as most other monitoring software.  If you think that the temp reading is reported wrong by Link, you can always double check with another monitor software just to confirm.

 

It would appear I might have spoken too soon about this problem being solved. The paste this time around only seemed to serve as a very temporary reprieve from high temperatures. After only five days or so, the temperatures whilst trying to render have shot back up to the 100's.

 

And temperatures when I have nothing going on aren't much better than they were before. So it looks as if I am back to square one again. What would this indicate as the problem being? At this point I've taken the unit off, reapplied paste, and back on again twice and it only seemed to make a difference for all of one or two days before going back to the alarmingly high idle temps I've been experiencing for the past few weeks. Is there anything more I can do to help identify the problem?

[Corsair Nick]

The next step should be to contact our Technical Support staff for an RMA so we can help get your system back up and running.  The H100i GTX comes with a 5 year warranty if it was purchased new, so you should be covered and still have warranty left over.  If you run into any issues, let me know.

 

http://support.corsair.com/