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OFFGRID SOLAR GAMING PC

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Just now, XCalisseMunematzX said:

I agree with all of you. But I must remind you all that my goal is not to keep the PC running after dark, I know it will dry but I am wondering the 12V Solar to 120V UPS Issue how I can resolve please give me that solution all of your comments about the 100W not being sufficient is 100% right and I knew that before I started this topic but again, I only want to know how to charge the UPS while it is not under load.

Get an inverter, preferably one with a modified sine wave topology.

I have a Cyberpower 450V and for example a Intel Pentuim G4400 System w/ a GT 730 and a Acer Aspire Switch 10 from 2015 and I know that a small UPS will not power them for long but will a 100W 12V solar panel atleast charge the UPS if not what Solar Configuration do i need?

 

Thanks.

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You might as well by-pass the inverter and computer PSU completely. It is doable, but it will require full on sunlight. I would try to use buck/boost converters to get the necessary rails for a PC to operate. If you really want to do it, we can discuss further, but I don't think it is a particularly good idea.

Cheers!

Quote or tag if you want me to answer! PM me if you are in a real hurry!

Why do Java developers wear glasses? Because they can't C#!

 

My Machines:

The Gaming Rig:

Spoiler

-Processor: i5 6600k @4.6GHz

-Graphics: GTX1060 6GB G1 Gaming

-RAM: 2x8GB HyperX DDR4 2133MHz

-Motherboard: Asus Z170-A

-Cooler: Corsair H100i

-PSU: EVGA 650W 80+bronze

-AOC 1080p ultrawide

My good old laptop:

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Lenovo T430

-Processor: i7 3520M

-4GB DDR3 1600MHz

-Graphics: intel iGPU :(

-Not even 1080p

 

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Just now, dany_boy said:

You might as well by-pass the inverter and computer PSU completely. It is doable, but it will require full on sunlight. I would try to use buck/boost converters to get the necessary rails for a PC to operate. If you really want to do it, we can discuss further, but I don't think it is a particularly good idea.

Cheers!

Oh no no, The UPS powers the Desktop Pentium fine,even though it will only run Crysis 3 for 12 minutes I am just looking for a "Possible way" to charge the UPS and I am not asking for constant usage, Only objective is to "Charge the UPS"

 

Thank you dany_boy.

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I doubt you'd carry it everywhere with you, so you'd probs have your car. You can just get a DC to AC adapter and run it off that. pari it with a wifi hotspot and you're good to go!

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

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Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

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Just now, Zando Bob said:

I doubt you'd carry it everywhere with you, so you'd probs have your car. You can just get a DC to AC adapter and run it off that. pari it with a wifi hotspot and you're good to go!

Of-course it will be heavy but the point is all I want to know is what type of solar charger can charge at-all that UPS. will a 100w 12v Work at-all thats all I want to know thanks!

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Just now, XCalisseMunematzX said:

Of-course it will be heavy but the point is all I want to know is what type of solar charger can charge at-all that UPS. will a 100w 12v Work at-all thats all I want to know thanks!

IDK, I'm not a voltage converter wiz. Does it have an AC plug, and can it power whatever the draw of the UPS is? (it should say what it can support)

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

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well you will probably need more then 100W, if its a permanent install then id go for closer to 500W but remember that as soon as the sun goes low the power will die and you will be left in the dark after a few minutes

I spent $2500 on building my PC and all i do with it is play no games atm & watch anime at 1080p(finally) watch YT and write essays...  nothing, it just sits there collecting dust...

Builds:

The Toaster Project! Northern Bee!

 

The original LAN PC build log! (Old, dead and replaced by The Toaster Project & 5.0)

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"Here is some advice that might have gotten lost somewhere along the way in your life. 

 

#1. Treat others as you would like to be treated.

#2. It's best to keep your mouth shut; and appear to be stupid, rather than open it and remove all doubt.

#3. There is nothing "wrong" with being wrong. Learning from a mistake can be more valuable than not making one in the first place.

 

Follow these simple rules in life, and I promise you, things magically get easier. " - MageTank 31-10-2016

 

 

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1 minute ago, Zando Bob said:

IDK, I'm not a voltage converter wiz. Does it have an AC plug, and can it power whatever the draw of the UPS is? (it should say what it can support)

@XCalisseMunematzX Again, don't bother with an inverter + UPS, the efficiency takes a nose dive. Get an MPPT directly to a battery. If after that you want to power a load, then you use an inverter.

Quote or tag if you want me to answer! PM me if you are in a real hurry!

Why do Java developers wear glasses? Because they can't C#!

 

My Machines:

The Gaming Rig:

Spoiler

-Processor: i5 6600k @4.6GHz

-Graphics: GTX1060 6GB G1 Gaming

-RAM: 2x8GB HyperX DDR4 2133MHz

-Motherboard: Asus Z170-A

-Cooler: Corsair H100i

-PSU: EVGA 650W 80+bronze

-AOC 1080p ultrawide

My good old laptop:

Spoiler

Lenovo T430

-Processor: i7 3520M

-4GB DDR3 1600MHz

-Graphics: intel iGPU :(

-Not even 1080p

 

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one important thing is that your solar panel will never give you 100w, as that is under lab condictions that dont happen in real life, as long as the inverter has more wattage than your solar panel you will be fine, but you might need more panels if you want a continuous gaming experience.

you also could make a battery bank using 18950s to store more energy (3 in series will give you around 12 volts )

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Just now, dany_boy said:

@XCalisseMunematzX Again, don't bother with an inverter + UPS, the efficiency takes a nose dive. Get an MPPT directly to a battery. If after that you want to power a load, then you use an inverter.

No idea what you just said, but I'm sure you're correct!

Intel HEDT and Server platform enthusiasts: Intel HEDT Xeon/i7 Megathread 

 

Main PC 

CPU: i9 7980XE @4.5GHz/1.22v/-2 AVX offset 

Cooler: EKWB Supremacy Block - custom loop w/360mm +280mm rads 

Motherboard: EVGA X299 Dark 

RAM:4x8GB HyperX Predator DDR4 @3200Mhz CL16 

GPU: Nvidia FE 2060 Super/Corsair HydroX 2070 FE block 

Storage:  1TB MP34 + 1TB 970 Evo + 500GB Atom30 + 250GB 960 Evo 

Optical Drives: LG WH14NS40 

PSU: EVGA 1600W T2 

Case & Fans: Corsair 750D Airflow - 3x Noctua iPPC NF-F12 + 4x Noctua iPPC NF-A14 PWM 

OS: Windows 11

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 2020 M1 MacBook Air (work computer) - iPhone 13 Pro Max - Apple Watch S3

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, 128GB SD card swap, running Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

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1 minute ago, Zando Bob said:

No idea what you just said, but I'm sure you're correct!

 

1 minute ago, cj09beira said:

one important thing is that your solar panel will never give you 100w, as that is under lab condictions that dont happen in real life, as long as the inverter has more wattage than your solar panel you will be fine, but you might need more panels if you want a continuous gaming experience.

you also could make a battery bank using 18950s to store more energy (3 in series will give you around 12 volts )

 

1 minute ago, dany_boy said:

@XCalisseMunematzX Again, don't bother with an inverter + UPS, the efficiency takes a nose dive. Get an MPPT directly to a battery. If after that you want to power a load, then you use an inverter.

I agree with all of you. But I must remind you all that my goal is not to keep the PC running after dark, I know it will dry but I am wondering the 12V Solar to 120V UPS Issue how I can resolve please give me that solution all of your comments about the 100W not being sufficient is 100% right and I knew that before I started this topic but again, I only want to know how to charge the UPS while it is not under load.

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1 minute ago, Zando Bob said:

No idea what you just said, but I'm sure you're correct!

Hahaha :) Basically, dont use a commercial UPS that charges from a solar inverter, its too inefficient. It's way better to use a (MPPT) Maximum Power Point Tracking circuit to directly charge a battery from the solar array. After that, you may use an inverter to power whatever you may need with mains voltage.

Quote or tag if you want me to answer! PM me if you are in a real hurry!

Why do Java developers wear glasses? Because they can't C#!

 

My Machines:

The Gaming Rig:

Spoiler

-Processor: i5 6600k @4.6GHz

-Graphics: GTX1060 6GB G1 Gaming

-RAM: 2x8GB HyperX DDR4 2133MHz

-Motherboard: Asus Z170-A

-Cooler: Corsair H100i

-PSU: EVGA 650W 80+bronze

-AOC 1080p ultrawide

My good old laptop:

Spoiler

Lenovo T430

-Processor: i7 3520M

-4GB DDR3 1600MHz

-Graphics: intel iGPU :(

-Not even 1080p

 

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Just now, XCalisseMunematzX said:

I agree with all of you. But I must remind you all that my goal is not to keep the PC running after dark, I know it will dry but I am wondering the 12V Solar to 120V UPS Issue how I can resolve please give me that solution all of your comments about the 100W not being sufficient is 100% right and I knew that before I started this topic but again, I only want to know how to charge the UPS while it is not under load.

Get an inverter, preferably one with a modified sine wave topology.

Quote or tag if you want me to answer! PM me if you are in a real hurry!

Why do Java developers wear glasses? Because they can't C#!

 

My Machines:

The Gaming Rig:

Spoiler

-Processor: i5 6600k @4.6GHz

-Graphics: GTX1060 6GB G1 Gaming

-RAM: 2x8GB HyperX DDR4 2133MHz

-Motherboard: Asus Z170-A

-Cooler: Corsair H100i

-PSU: EVGA 650W 80+bronze

-AOC 1080p ultrawide

My good old laptop:

Spoiler

Lenovo T430

-Processor: i7 3520M

-4GB DDR3 1600MHz

-Graphics: intel iGPU :(

-Not even 1080p

 

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1 minute ago, dany_boy said:

Get an inverter, preferably one with a modified sine wave topology.

Thank you all Greatly for providing me with such rich quality information that can help me in the future. Linus Tech Tips forums is one of the best I have been on!

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the simplest way to charge it would be add a diode to one of the cables on your solar panel and connect it directly to the ups battery,

might be a good idea to have a multimeter making sure you don't overcharge it though

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Just now, cj09beira said:

the simplest way to charge it would be add a diode to one of the cables on your solar panel and connect it directly to the ups battery,

might be a good idea to have a multimeter making sure you don't overcharge it though

Erm, over-voltage, over-current, over-temperature protection? Charging phases?

Quote or tag if you want me to answer! PM me if you are in a real hurry!

Why do Java developers wear glasses? Because they can't C#!

 

My Machines:

The Gaming Rig:

Spoiler

-Processor: i5 6600k @4.6GHz

-Graphics: GTX1060 6GB G1 Gaming

-RAM: 2x8GB HyperX DDR4 2133MHz

-Motherboard: Asus Z170-A

-Cooler: Corsair H100i

-PSU: EVGA 650W 80+bronze

-AOC 1080p ultrawide

My good old laptop:

Spoiler

Lenovo T430

-Processor: i7 3520M

-4GB DDR3 1600MHz

-Graphics: intel iGPU :(

-Not even 1080p

 

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1 minute ago, dany_boy said:

Erm, over-voltage, over-current, over-temperature protection? Charging phases?

you dont need much of that, maybe overvoltage, but like i said a multimeter solves that 

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Just now, cj09beira said:

you dont need much of that, maybe overvoltage, but like i said a multimeter solves that 

Do you want to reduce the lifespan of your batteries? because that is how you reduce the lifespan of your batteries

Quote or tag if you want me to answer! PM me if you are in a real hurry!

Why do Java developers wear glasses? Because they can't C#!

 

My Machines:

The Gaming Rig:

Spoiler

-Processor: i5 6600k @4.6GHz

-Graphics: GTX1060 6GB G1 Gaming

-RAM: 2x8GB HyperX DDR4 2133MHz

-Motherboard: Asus Z170-A

-Cooler: Corsair H100i

-PSU: EVGA 650W 80+bronze

-AOC 1080p ultrawide

My good old laptop:

Spoiler

Lenovo T430

-Processor: i7 3520M

-4GB DDR3 1600MHz

-Graphics: intel iGPU :(

-Not even 1080p

 

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Just now, dany_boy said:

Do you want to reduce the lifespan of your batteries? because that is how you reduce the lifespan of your batteries

a single solar panel would give it 7-8 amps max, thats well within the battery's capabilities 

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@cj09beira 10 virtual cookies say you are wrong:

Data taken from here:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/cyberpower-450va-battery-back-up-system-black/3938808.p?skuId=3938808

Best case scenario:

7 minutes at half load. Load = 260W of real power. 450W of apparent power. 130W * (7/60)h = 15.67J of energy provided.

Assuming converter is very efficient (85 ish percent): (15.67/0.85)J = 18 ish joules.

Average lead acid battery voltage: 12v --> (18 Wh /12v) = 1.5Ah of battery capacity

Also, charging phases:

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_the_lead_acid_battery

Quote or tag if you want me to answer! PM me if you are in a real hurry!

Why do Java developers wear glasses? Because they can't C#!

 

My Machines:

The Gaming Rig:

Spoiler

-Processor: i5 6600k @4.6GHz

-Graphics: GTX1060 6GB G1 Gaming

-RAM: 2x8GB HyperX DDR4 2133MHz

-Motherboard: Asus Z170-A

-Cooler: Corsair H100i

-PSU: EVGA 650W 80+bronze

-AOC 1080p ultrawide

My good old laptop:

Spoiler

Lenovo T430

-Processor: i7 3520M

-4GB DDR3 1600MHz

-Graphics: intel iGPU :(

-Not even 1080p

 

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4 minutes ago, dany_boy said:

@cj09beira 10 virtual cookies say you are wrong:

Data taken from here:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/cyberpower-450va-battery-back-up-system-black/3938808.p?skuId=3938808

Best case scenario:

7 minutes at half load. Load = 260W of real power. 450W of apparent power. 130W * (7/60)h = 15.67J of energy provided.

Assuming converter is very efficient (85 ish percent): (15.67/0.85)J = 18 ish joules.

Average lead acid battery voltage: 12v --> (18 Wh /12v) = 1.5Ah of battery capacity

Also, charging phases:

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_the_lead_acid_battery

i don't get where you getting at, i never mentioned anything in regards to discharge of the battery, the solar panel would at most charge it at around 80w, and with the diode reducing the voltage so it would charge even lower,

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if i was to design a solar powered computer i would start with a laptop that has an 8 hour battery like a mac pro and hook that up to a solar panel and maybe use super capacitors.

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1 hour ago, cj09beira said:

i don't get where you getting at, i never mentioned anything in regards to discharge of the battery, the solar panel would at most charge it at around 80w, and with the diode reducing the voltage so it would charge even lower,

What I'm trying to say is that connecting the solar array directly to the battery without any form of proper charging circuitry will significantly reduce the lifespan of the battery. Most Lead-Acid batteries don't even like being charged at more than 0.5C, and given the capacity of the battery (what I estimated) the solar array will charge it way too fast, not to mention the lack of proper monitoring. Sure it can be done, but its janky AF.

Quote or tag if you want me to answer! PM me if you are in a real hurry!

Why do Java developers wear glasses? Because they can't C#!

 

My Machines:

The Gaming Rig:

Spoiler

-Processor: i5 6600k @4.6GHz

-Graphics: GTX1060 6GB G1 Gaming

-RAM: 2x8GB HyperX DDR4 2133MHz

-Motherboard: Asus Z170-A

-Cooler: Corsair H100i

-PSU: EVGA 650W 80+bronze

-AOC 1080p ultrawide

My good old laptop:

Spoiler

Lenovo T430

-Processor: i7 3520M

-4GB DDR3 1600MHz

-Graphics: intel iGPU :(

-Not even 1080p

 

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Ideally, you want to take out the UPS and the computer power supply and the laptop's power supply from the circuit.

Why?

 

Because you'd have to use an inverter to convert the DC voltage from solar panel or batteries to produce 110v AC or 230v AC for the UPS which will then just pass through this to the computer or laptop. This conversion will be done with some losses, maybe 80-85% efficiency so right away around 10-20% of all your solar energy is lost.

Then, your computer uses only around 50-70w with that g4400 and gt730 but because you have a 00-500w psu which is optimized for best efficiency at around 200-250w, its efficiency will suck at only 50-70w.. basically your psu would be only about 70% efficient or in other words 80w go in psu, only 70w (didn't do the math, not exact values) go to components and there goes more power to heat, more losses.

With the laptop same thing, only the adapter will be around 90% efficient when converting 110v/230v to 19v or what your laptop uses.

 

You need some kind of solar panel charge controller, ideally one with MPPT tracking, to which you can connect the solar panel and one or two lead acid batteries, You'll have to buy one that supports the maximum voltage of your solar panel - cheaper controllers can handle only up to 20-30v from the solar panels, more expensive ones can do 100-150v or even more.

 

So besides the solar panel input these things have an output to which you can connect a 12v or 24v battery (or 2x12v in series) and the controller will take whatever voltage you have on the solar panel and bring it down to around 13.8v or 27v (the voltages required to charge 12v/24v lead acid batteries)

 

so to make your pc more efficient you could replace the power supply running from mains with one that can work directly with a wide range of dc voltage and produces all the voltages that pc needs.

picoPSU is a known brand, but you have to be careful as the majority of the models sold are designed for accurate 12v input, which you won't get from your charger or battery, you'll get at least 13-14v when they're charging.

Also alead acid battery will discharge down to around 10.5v which is too low, so ideally you want to use 2 lead acid batteries to have 24v and therefore the voltage will be anywhere between around 21v all the way to around 28v

So something like this would work: http://www.mini-box.com/M3-ATX-DC-DC-ATX-Automotive-Computer-car-PC-Power-Supply?sc=8&category=981

 (for 12v battery) or https://www.amazon.com/M3-ATX-HV-95-Watt-Automotive-Carputer/dp/B005TWE636/ for 24v batteries.

You'd also need a molex to cpu 4pin adapter to power your CPU, these power supplies are designed for more low power boards so they don't have that connector.

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