780ti blown resistor.

[acturisme]

A couple of weeks ago my 780ti went belly up.  Figuring I had nothing to lose, I proceeded to disassemble the unit and see if anything obvious was wrong.  What I'd found was that one of the surface mount resistors had completely come unsoldered from the board.  It was one of the r33 square resistors.  A simple test showed that it had failed.  It was down to 0.1ohms instead of the 0.33ohms that it was supposed to have.  This would have increased the current passing through to a dangerously large degree thus eventually melting the solder.  Does anyone know what form factor these resistors are and where I might get some so that I might attempt to bring this back from the grave?  I've tried looking for r33 resistors but I don't know the form factor or the power limit.  Thank you in advance. Peace.

 

To clarify it's an EVGA SC model.

[W-L]

5 minutes ago, acturisme said:

A couple of weeks ago my 780ti went belly up.  Figuring I had nothing to lose, I proceeded to disassemble the unit and see if anything obvious was wrong.  What I'd found was that one of the surface mount resistors had completely come unsoldered from the board.  It was one of the r33 square resistors.  A simple test showed that it had failed.  It was down to 0.1ohms instead of the 0.33ohms that it was supposed to have.  This would have increased the current passing through to a dangerously large degree thus eventually melting the solder.  Does anyone know what form factor these resistors are and where I might get some so that I might attempt to bring this back from the grave?  I've tried looking for r33 resistors but I don't know the form factor or the power limit.  Thank you in advance. Peace.

 

To clarify it's an EVGA SC model.

Do you have a photo of the board and resistor? 

If it's one of the large ones it might be the ones used to lock the max core voltage on the Nvidia cards. 

[acturisme]

Suppose I can take the time...

Not like it's going anywhere at the moment.

[gtx1060=value]

3 minutes ago, acturisme said:

Suppose I can take the time...

Not like it's going anywhere at the moment.

https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-33-ohm-1-2w-5-carbon-film-resistor-pk-5

 

you could try soldering the resistor back in - i mean you can't really damage it more if you're careful

[acturisme]

Right smack in the middle.  Which I'm assuming is an r33 since its closest neighbor is also.  The original was blackened and unreadable.

[acturisme]

7 minutes ago, gtx1060=value said:

https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-33-ohm-1-2w-5-carbon-film-resistor-pk-5

 

you could try soldering the resistor back in - i mean you can't really damage it more if you're careful

Possible, but I think that the power limit of that one is low for this application.  I might be wrong.  I may go that route if we don't turn up the exact part.  Thanks.

[W-L]

3 minutes ago, acturisme said:

Right smack in the middle.  Which I'm assuming is an r33 since its closest neighbor is also.  The original was blackened and unreadable.

If your talking about that square piece that's not a resistor, it's a potted choke or inductor. 

[Godlygamer23]

8 minutes ago, acturisme said:

Right smack in the middle.  Which I'm assuming is an r33 since its closest neighbor is also.  The original was blackened and unreadable.

I think you may be talking about an inductor, not a resistor.

[acturisme]

An inductor wouldn't have an "r" prefix.  Right?  I'm not versed in electronic components but r usually means resistor in electronic's vernacular?  Also, would an inductor come in a square form factor?  I'm not educated in these things.  The part that fell off was the same size as the part labeled r33.  Thanks.

[DragonTamer1]

14 minutes ago, W-L said:

If your talking about that square piece that's not a resistor, it's a potted choke or inductor. 

He's talking about the bare pad directly above it I think, it looks like there is a part missing there.

 

I don't thing that r33 is .33 ohm resistor but I have never worked with SMT parts before so don't quote me. Resistors also usually burn open, not closed. If you were trying to measure the resistance while it was still on the board the rest of the circuit can throw off your reading.

 

If you are looking for a replacement use Mouser or Digikey and look for SMT resistors. They do come in different physical sizes and resistances so you will have to make sure that you have the right one. There is also the possibility that the rest of the board is already dead depending on what the resistors function was.

 

Edit: just looked at the picture again, that's not a resistor.

[acturisme]

Thank you all for correcting my assumption!  I'll investigate more deeply into this and I will post what I find here. 

[W-L]

6 minutes ago, acturisme said:

An inductor wouldn't have an "r" prefix.  Right?  I'm not versed in electronic components but r usually means resistor in electronic's vernacular?  Also, would an inductor come in a square form factor?  I'm not educated in these things.  The part that fell off was the same size as the part labeled r33.  Thanks.

Not exactly, R33 in terms of an inductor should stands for 0.33uH or 330nH, it's just potted inside of a hard plastic material making it square, they come in all shapes and sizes.

http://how-to.wikia.com/wiki/How_to_identify_inductor_markings

 

As Dragon mentions that looks like it was intentionally left out and not needed where the blank space is. 

[acturisme]

6 minutes ago, W-L said:

Not exactly, R33 in terms of an inductor should stands for 0.33uH or 330nH, it's just potted inside of a hard plastic material making it square, they come in all shapes and sizes.

http://how-to.wikia.com/wiki/How_to_identify_inductor_markings

 

As Dragon mentions that looks like it was intentionally left out and not needed where the blank space is. 

It cannot be intentionally left out because the old one fell out of the unit and onto my table.   So I found a photo of this board on another forum.  That inductor does have a mate in that location of the same type.  Looks like a uH 0.33 with a dimension of 0.25 x 0.25 x 0.125 inches.  We're getting closer.

[W-L]

2 minutes ago, acturisme said:

It cannot be intentionally left out because the old one fell out of the unit and onto my table.   So I found a photo of this board on another forum.  That inductor does have a mate in that location of the same type.  Looks like a uH 0.33 with a dimension of 0.25 x 0.25 x 0.125 inches.  We're getting closer.

Well that's a different story then, is it still under warranty you could RMA it if so to see if they can exchange you another one. I've heard of EVGA RMA's upgrading users to the current equivalent of the card before if it's accepted, might be something to look into. 

[acturisme]

Well here goes.  This Wurth Electronics inductor has the required inductance and the highest current capacity that I could find with the correct shape and size.  I'm going to get a couple and hope I can fix this.  http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=217907507&uq=636214921556517393&DPU=submit

25 minutes ago, W-L said:

Well that's a different story then, is it still under warranty you could RMA it if so to see if they can exchange you another one. I've heard of EVGA RMA's upgrading users to the current equivalent of the card before if it's accepted, might be something to look into. 

I had thought of the RMA but my serial # sticker fell off of the board.  I'm probably sol. 

[W-L]

5 minutes ago, acturisme said:

Well here goes.  This Wurth Electronics inductor has the required inductance and the highest current capacity that I could find with the correct shape and size.  I'm going to get a couple and hope I can fix this.  http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=217907507&uq=636214921556517393&DPU=submit

I had thought of the RMA but my serial # sticker fell off of the board.  I'm probably sol. 

Give it a shot and see what they say, its worth a try.

[acturisme]

7 minutes ago, W-L said:

Give it a shot and see what they say, its worth a try.

I shot them an email and I've saved the page from Digi-Key just in case.  THANKS EVERYBODY!

[Godlygamer23]

2 hours ago, acturisme said:

An inductor wouldn't have an "r" prefix.  Right?  I'm not versed in electronic components but r usually means resistor in electronic's vernacular?  Also, would an inductor come in a square form factor?  I'm not educated in these things.  The part that fell off was the same size as the part labeled r33.  Thanks.

The R marking is something the vendor puts on. In order to determine the component, you need to look at the marking on the board itself. If it has "Rxxx," then it's a resistor. If it's a capacitor, it'll say "Cxxx," etc. 

[Croulder]

Wow, how funny I find someone with the same problem, at the same time. I have the exact same problem with an evga sc acx 780!

The same part shown on your picture unsoldered itself in the middle of a game. The graphics card let out smoke and the computer turned off. 

I was able to get an replacement inductor through my dad. See picture. Not perfect, but if the inductor was the problem this replacement should've worked. I put the card back in and connect the power wires. As I turn on the pc, sparks fly out of the graphics card. 

I've tried to turn the pc back on using the integrated Intel graphics, this time, with no success. I may have fried my power supply... 

However, I am not sure why sparks were flying? I tried examining the card but I can't find any new defects. Maybe our cards have some long term defect with that inductor? (or the the part feeding it current, as I don't believe the inductor to be the actual defect of this). 

[Godlygamer23]

13 minutes ago, Croulder said:

Wow, how funny I find someone with the same problem, at the same time. I have the exact same problem with an evga sc acx 780!

The same part shown on your picture unsoldered itself in the middle of a game. The graphics card let out smoke and the computer turned off. 

I was able to get an replacement inductor through my dad. See picture. Not perfect, but if the inductor was the problem this replacement should've worked. I put the card back in and connect the power wires. As I turn on the pc, sparks fly out of the graphics card. 

I've tried to turn the pc back on using the integrated Intel graphics, this time, with no success. I may have fried my power supply... 

However, I am not sure why sparks were flying? I tried examining the card but I can't find any new defects. Maybe our cards have some long term defect with that inductor? (or the the part feeding it current, as I don't believe the inductor to be the actual defect of this). 

Is the inductor wired correctly? I'm fairly certain it's a polarized part, and if you have it flipped, it will fail. It's also a good idea that the inductor follows the same specs as the previous one. If the one you have is technically inferior to the original, that may cause problems.

[Croulder]

An Inductor is not a polarized part no. It had the exact same specs! I found out the reason my system would not turn on was because the power button was disconnected from the motherboard, so the problem is contained to graphics card. Now dumb me just assumed that i had only 2 years of warranty on the card. I check EVGA's homepage and it says 120 days left... (3 years) I have not voided any warranty sticker, but i have tampered with the card? Do you believe there is a chance EVGA, would be nice enough to repair/replace it? I mean, I actually tried to spare them the work by repairing it myself