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pc doesnt like cold

35 minutes ago, VikingGaming said:

OK, I have an Asus Maximus VII Formula, and I have noticed that if the MoBo has been without power for a little while it will start, stop, then start. It might be related to what you're experiencing? (The start, stop, start when it has been without power is normal, as it has to charge capacitors IIRC). Might be a combination of a PSU that does not like low temps, and the way some Asus MoBos behave when there's no power.

 

Edit: I just saw your vid, and the behaviour looks IDENTICAL to what mine does when it's been without power, for just a few mins (I am still not sure if it is related, just the first thing that pops into my head)...

Some times it does whats in the video once and sometimes up to three times

CPU: Intel9-9900k 5.0GHz at 1.36v  | Cooling: Custom Loop | MOTHERBOARD: ASUS ROG Z370 Maximus X Hero | RAM: CORSAIR 32GB DDR4-3200 VENGEANCE PRO RGB  | GPU: Nvidia RTX 2080Ti | PSU: CORSAIR RM850X + Cablemod modflex white cables | BOOT DRIVE: 250GB SSD Samsung 850 evo | STORAGE: 7.75TB | CASE: Fractal Design Define R6 BLackout | Display: SAMSUNG OLED 34 UW | Keyboard: HyperX Alloy elite RGB |  Mouse: Corsair M65 PRO RGB | OS: Windows 10 Pro | Phone: iPhone 11 Pro Max 256GB

 

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I think you are having a memory training issue during POST when ambient temps are low.

 

During cold boots (not cold as in cold room temps, but booting from complete power off state), your memory will undergo training and testing during the POST process.  This training and testing process happens very quickly and is actually quite stressful on the memory.  This is a good thing because if it's not relatively stable, it wont successfully POST.  

 

When the ambient temps drop, voltage behavior changes as well.  Lower temps leads to higher resistance, which in turn leads to lower observed voltage.  It only takes a few seconds for the sticks to warm up, which is what's happening during the first failed POST.  After the sticks have warmed up during the first failed POST, they become warmer and less resistant.  Voltage increases a bit and the memory training and testing passes.

 

So if you cold boot in a warm room, there's not problem because the sticks are already warm enough and resistance is low.  If the room is cold during a cold boot, you may not pass the first time around, but usually you will once they've warmed up for a couple of seconds. 

 

This behavior is further amplified if the memory is overclocked via XMP or manually as these settings generally require more voltage to successfully train and pass testing during cold boots.

 

You can overcome this if your board supports Eventual DRAM Voltage.  With this feature, you can boot at one voltage (a higher voltage) and it will eventually drop to a user defined voltage after testing has completed and until your next cold boot.

 

I hope this helped.

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Very common issue and usually not any problem at all other than a slight nuisance. Not much you can do about it. Same deal with some boards that don't like to be shut off, some of them lose their overclock settings if you leave the machine powered down with the PSU shut off for 2-3 days, you just keep your OC saved to a profile. Sometimes it can be PSU related, sometimes simply BIOS version which will be fixed with a newer BIOS update. Sometimes a sensor reading improperly so the automatic temp sensor shuts the machine off the moment it tries to boot. I'd say just try to update the BIOS if there is a newer one available and other than that just live with the issue. As someone else just mentioned it could be memory training too, pretty common on older boards with DDR3.

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1 hour ago, done12many2 said:

I think you are having a memory training issue during POST when ambient temps are low.

 

During cold boots (not cold as in cold room temps, but booting from complete power off state), your memory will undergo training and testing during the POST process.  This training and testing process happens very quickly and is actually quite stressful on the memory.  This is a good thing because if it's not relatively stable, it wont successfully POST.  

 

When the ambient temps drop, voltage behavior changes as well.  Lower temps leads to higher resistance, which in turn leads to lower observed voltage.  It only takes a few seconds for the sticks to warm up, which is what's happening during the first failed POST.  After the sticks have warmed up during the first failed POST, they become warmer and less resistant.  Voltage increases a bit and the memory training and testing passes.

 

So if you cold boot in a warm room, there's not problem because the sticks are already warm enough and resistance is low.  If the room is cold during a cold boot, you may not pass the first time around, but usually you will once they've warmed up for a couple of seconds. 

 

This behavior is further amplified if the memory is overclocked via XMP or manually as these settings generally require more voltage to successfully train and pass testing during cold boots.

 

You can overcome this if your board supports Eventual DRAM Voltage.  With this feature, you can boot at one voltage (a higher voltage) and it will eventually drop to a user defined voltage after testing has completed and until your next cold boot.

 

I hope this helped.

interesting

 

1 hour ago, DunePilot said:

Very common issue and usually not any problem at all other than a slight nuisance. Not much you can do about it. Same deal with some boards that don't like to be shut off, some of them lose their overclock settings if you leave the machine powered down with the PSU shut off for 2-3 days, you just keep your OC saved to a profile. Sometimes it can be PSU related, sometimes simply BIOS version which will be fixed with a newer BIOS update. Sometimes a sensor reading improperly so the automatic temp sensor shuts the machine off the moment it tries to boot. I'd say just try to update the BIOS if there is a newer one available and other than that just live with the issue. As someone else just mentioned it could be memory training too, pretty common on older boards with DDR3.

the psu is plugged into the wall and is turned on , PWR, RESET buttons on the motherboard are illimunated as are the led lights above the EPU AND TPU switches on my motherboard (ASUS P9X79PRO)

CPU: Intel9-9900k 5.0GHz at 1.36v  | Cooling: Custom Loop | MOTHERBOARD: ASUS ROG Z370 Maximus X Hero | RAM: CORSAIR 32GB DDR4-3200 VENGEANCE PRO RGB  | GPU: Nvidia RTX 2080Ti | PSU: CORSAIR RM850X + Cablemod modflex white cables | BOOT DRIVE: 250GB SSD Samsung 850 evo | STORAGE: 7.75TB | CASE: Fractal Design Define R6 BLackout | Display: SAMSUNG OLED 34 UW | Keyboard: HyperX Alloy elite RGB |  Mouse: Corsair M65 PRO RGB | OS: Windows 10 Pro | Phone: iPhone 11 Pro Max 256GB

 

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2 minutes ago, KOMTechAndGaming said:

interesting

 

the psu is plugged into the wall and is turned on , some motherboards lights are on also

Yeah, I meant it as a separate issue. It will also sometimes show up in the boards that have the cold boot loop issue.

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1 minute ago, DunePilot said:

Yeah, I meant it as a separate issue. It will also sometimes show up in the boards that have the cold boot loop issue.

its not damaging the board when it does this? it can try to boot up to three times most of the time it takes one boot attempt

CPU: Intel9-9900k 5.0GHz at 1.36v  | Cooling: Custom Loop | MOTHERBOARD: ASUS ROG Z370 Maximus X Hero | RAM: CORSAIR 32GB DDR4-3200 VENGEANCE PRO RGB  | GPU: Nvidia RTX 2080Ti | PSU: CORSAIR RM850X + Cablemod modflex white cables | BOOT DRIVE: 250GB SSD Samsung 850 evo | STORAGE: 7.75TB | CASE: Fractal Design Define R6 BLackout | Display: SAMSUNG OLED 34 UW | Keyboard: HyperX Alloy elite RGB |  Mouse: Corsair M65 PRO RGB | OS: Windows 10 Pro | Phone: iPhone 11 Pro Max 256GB

 

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13 minutes ago, KOMTechAndGaming said:

its not damaging the board when it does this? it can try to boot up to three times most of the time it takes one boot attempt

Not gonna hurt it no. It's just a pain in the rear and a bit of a hassle. I've had boards that had this issue. I've had one that had all three including the triple boot thing. Which usually on mine would show up on cold boots with a big overclock, if it didn't POST on the third boot loop the trick was to shut the power supply off on the back for about 8 seconds (long enough for the LEDs near the ram on the motherboard to go out) then flip the PSU power back on and press power and it would boot straight up. No issue with the stability of the OC at all but it sure hated cold boots with a huge OC.

 

You will see where I've brought this up before, very common issue. Read page 648 and 649 the conversation between myself DunePilot and Greywarden.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1489955/official-x58-xeon-club/6480#post_24536194

 

So I have a bit of an issue.

Installed the Gigabyte GA-X58A-OC lastnight, installed the second 980Ti that I got back from RMA, new Coollab Ultra TIM, too.

Turn it on, everything goes as normal, install the motherboard drivers (Lan, sound, chipset, etc.)

Do a restart.

C1 code and black screen, keeps rebooting like three times, then stays on, black screen and C1 code the whole time.

C1 = DRAM blah blah blah, so I took the RAM out, tried each stick, same code, same problem.

Cleared the CMOS, took the battery out, left it unplugged for a couple hours, turned it on just now, same problem.

Any ideas?


C1 is what I always see when I boot mine. C1, then it'll eventually post a C3 and then count to 100, you get the boot screen when it gets to either 50 or 75, I can't remember.



ok, so maybe it's just taking an insanely long time to boot for some reason?



That is a sexy build.

When mine has a failed overclock it will attempt to post, I will see C1 the entire time, C3 will never flash and then it will shut right back off after about 3-5 seconds of showing C1. Sometimes you can kick the power switch on the back off after it fails to boot, wait about 5 seconds until the l.e.d.'s near the ram flash back off and then switch it back on and push power and it will boot right up. Maybe that'll be useful to you. Sometimes if you don't shut it off it would do that indefinitely, sometimes it will do that about three times and then boot up after it has gone to the backup BIOS.



Geez, of all the things I tried, that did it. Took a few seconds, lol.

Thanks for the compliment! I've put a lot of time in effort (and money, ugh.) into it and I love it! Can't wait to get my X34 Predator monitor!

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16 hours ago, KOMTechAndGaming said:

right so my pc doesnt like to be cold when i start it :/ 

ill post a video of what happens when i press power when my room is cold

what could be causing this?

it is over clocked but i can rule out the only variable to be room temperature (i dont have anything to measure ambient temps with) ill guess and ball park it to be in the range of 15c-18c and when my room feels warm 21+c

the temps are just a guess, 

 

this issue DOES NOT happen when i restart from within windows

Hunted tech? No reason for that to be happening in colder ambient temps.

CPU: I7 5820K@4.0Ghz | Mobo: ASRock X99 Extreme4 | Ram: 4 x 4Gb G.Skill Tridentz@3200Mhz | GPU: XFX 390x | Cooling: Corsair H115i | PSU: Corsair RMX 850x | Storage: Samsung 250Gb 850 EVO + 2tb Seagate HDD | Case: Inwin 805 | Keyboard: Tesoro Gram Spectrum | Mouse: Tesoro Gram H3L | Mousepad: Corsair MM800 RGB  | OS: Windows 10

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23 minutes ago, DunePilot said:

Not gonna hurt it no. It's just a pain in the rear and a bit of a hassle. I've had boards that had this issue. I've had one that had all three including the triple boot thing. Which usually on mine would show up on cold boots with a big overclock, if it didn't POST on the third boot loop the trick was to shut the power supply off on the back for about 8 seconds (long enough for the LEDs near the ram on the motherboard to go out) then flip the PSU power back on and press power and it would boot straight up. No issue with the stability of the OC at all but it sure hated cold boots with a huge OC.

 

You will see where I've brought this up before, very common issue. Read page 648 and 649 the conversation between myself DunePilot and Greywarden.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1489955/official-x58-xeon-club/6480#post_24536194

 

 

 

adds between 10-20 seconds to boot time from power button to login screen not exactly an issue but aslong as its not harming my system, at first i thought it was my overclock :/

23 minutes ago, Hal_9000 said:

Hunted tech? No reason for that to be happening in colder ambient temps.

hunted tech?

CPU: Intel9-9900k 5.0GHz at 1.36v  | Cooling: Custom Loop | MOTHERBOARD: ASUS ROG Z370 Maximus X Hero | RAM: CORSAIR 32GB DDR4-3200 VENGEANCE PRO RGB  | GPU: Nvidia RTX 2080Ti | PSU: CORSAIR RM850X + Cablemod modflex white cables | BOOT DRIVE: 250GB SSD Samsung 850 evo | STORAGE: 7.75TB | CASE: Fractal Design Define R6 BLackout | Display: SAMSUNG OLED 34 UW | Keyboard: HyperX Alloy elite RGB |  Mouse: Corsair M65 PRO RGB | OS: Windows 10 Pro | Phone: iPhone 11 Pro Max 256GB

 

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someone said it could be a power supply issue i shall now use this to justify getting a new PSU lel :P (jks but i want to get a new psu)

CPU: Intel9-9900k 5.0GHz at 1.36v  | Cooling: Custom Loop | MOTHERBOARD: ASUS ROG Z370 Maximus X Hero | RAM: CORSAIR 32GB DDR4-3200 VENGEANCE PRO RGB  | GPU: Nvidia RTX 2080Ti | PSU: CORSAIR RM850X + Cablemod modflex white cables | BOOT DRIVE: 250GB SSD Samsung 850 evo | STORAGE: 7.75TB | CASE: Fractal Design Define R6 BLackout | Display: SAMSUNG OLED 34 UW | Keyboard: HyperX Alloy elite RGB |  Mouse: Corsair M65 PRO RGB | OS: Windows 10 Pro | Phone: iPhone 11 Pro Max 256GB

 

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3 minutes ago, KOMTechAndGaming said:

hunted tech?

There was a video on LTT that had a glitch that has no explanation. Here is the link 

CPU: I7 5820K@4.0Ghz | Mobo: ASRock X99 Extreme4 | Ram: 4 x 4Gb G.Skill Tridentz@3200Mhz | GPU: XFX 390x | Cooling: Corsair H115i | PSU: Corsair RMX 850x | Storage: Samsung 250Gb 850 EVO + 2tb Seagate HDD | Case: Inwin 805 | Keyboard: Tesoro Gram Spectrum | Mouse: Tesoro Gram H3L | Mousepad: Corsair MM800 RGB  | OS: Windows 10

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5 minutes ago, Hal_9000 said:

There was a video on LTT that had a glitch that has no explanation. Here is the link 

oohhh i remember now

CPU: Intel9-9900k 5.0GHz at 1.36v  | Cooling: Custom Loop | MOTHERBOARD: ASUS ROG Z370 Maximus X Hero | RAM: CORSAIR 32GB DDR4-3200 VENGEANCE PRO RGB  | GPU: Nvidia RTX 2080Ti | PSU: CORSAIR RM850X + Cablemod modflex white cables | BOOT DRIVE: 250GB SSD Samsung 850 evo | STORAGE: 7.75TB | CASE: Fractal Design Define R6 BLackout | Display: SAMSUNG OLED 34 UW | Keyboard: HyperX Alloy elite RGB |  Mouse: Corsair M65 PRO RGB | OS: Windows 10 Pro | Phone: iPhone 11 Pro Max 256GB

 

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My rooms that cold too, but my PC hasn't got this.

Got an older AeroCool 650W PSU :ph34r:

Main PC: R7 3700X / Gigabyte X570 I Aorus Pro Wifi / Radeon RX 5700 XT / 32GB DDR4-3200 / 250GB & 2TB Crucial MX500 (in HP Prodesk 400 Case)

Laptop: R5 2500U / Radeon Vega 8 / 8GB DDR4-2400 / 500GB SK Hynix BC501 (HP Envy x360 13)

My little Server: i7-7700 / Asrock H110M-ITX / 24GB DDR4-2400 / Samsung 860 Pro 250GB & Seagate Firecuda 2TB / VMware ESXi 6.7

(Don't tell me i should Name them, i don't want to ^^)

 

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27 minutes ago, TheLaserCucumber said:

My rooms that cold too, but my PC hasn't got this.

Got an older AeroCool 650W PSU :ph34r:

You have newer hardware 

CPU: Intel9-9900k 5.0GHz at 1.36v  | Cooling: Custom Loop | MOTHERBOARD: ASUS ROG Z370 Maximus X Hero | RAM: CORSAIR 32GB DDR4-3200 VENGEANCE PRO RGB  | GPU: Nvidia RTX 2080Ti | PSU: CORSAIR RM850X + Cablemod modflex white cables | BOOT DRIVE: 250GB SSD Samsung 850 evo | STORAGE: 7.75TB | CASE: Fractal Design Define R6 BLackout | Display: SAMSUNG OLED 34 UW | Keyboard: HyperX Alloy elite RGB |  Mouse: Corsair M65 PRO RGB | OS: Windows 10 Pro | Phone: iPhone 11 Pro Max 256GB

 

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