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New Power Supply says to plug directly into wall..?

Dive5885

Long story short.

 

My new power supply says it needs to be plugged directly into the wall and not into a power strip due to it being high wattage..

 

My question here is, how safe is it for it to be plugged into the wall and not a power strip?

 

If its not safe, I was thinking of getting this: https://www.amazon.com/Furman-MIW-SURGE-1G-Single--Wall-Protector/dp/B004U70SP6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1476525066&sr=8-5&keywords=Furman+Outlet

 

Thoughts?

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8 minutes ago, zMeul said:

what kind of Wattage?

1050w

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1 minute ago, Dive5885 said:

1050w

if I knew more about american power (120 volts or w/e) I'd be able to help.

Here in South Africa though the only thing that would change by plugging it in a power strip would maybe make it drop like 100w of power so it would be able to push 950w at the worst case scenario

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26 minutes ago, Dive5885 said:

My question here is, how safe is it for it to be plugged into the wall and not a power strip?

1. why buy a 1050w PSU?

2. its safe to use on any strip that is rated to handle a max load of idk 1500w? or greater.

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Issue 1:  The thing with power points is that there is usually multiple on a power circuit.

And Power circuits (terminating at the fuse box) will have a maximum load (in Amp).

 

So normally there is a certain number of power points per circuit based on lots of assumptions.

Lets say for the sake of argument that the 'allowance' of Amps per circuit is 40, with 4 power points per, this would mean each Power point has an 'allowance' of 10amps.

 

if you attach a 4 point power strip to that original power point, then you now have an allowance of 2.5 Amp per point on the strip.

 

so a 1050W device at 120Volt is drawing 8.5 Amp (if i got my math right) ... 

So there fore i would EXPECT the recommendation to be "plug it in directly to a power point (with a 10 amp allowance) and not into a power strip that might have lots of other devices.... 

 

Ignore the actual numbers (40,10, 2.5 etc) ... your country may be different ... but you get the point, yes ?

 

ie: its a safety issue.   if you know everything else on the power circuit is a low current device then you will be fine.

even if you dont know ... what should happen on overload is you blow a fuse.   This is why fuses exist.

 

Issue 2:   Some extension leads are shit quality and will not handle the current (amps) ... only use good ones.

--------------------

 

TL:DR --- use a good extension lead and it should be fine.  if it not, you will blow a fuse.   if you blow a fuse, then take other stuff off the power circuit till it dont happen no more. 

Worst case bad leads will burn down your house and kill your family.

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7 hours ago, TrigrH said:

1. why buy a 1050w PSU?

2. its safe to use on any strip that is rated to handle a max load of idk 1500w? or greater.

Why not?

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25 minutes ago, STRMfrmXMN said:

Waste of money.

Not really.

 

My cougar psu died last night so..

 

Not a waste of money.

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1 minute ago, Dive5885 said:

Not really.

 

My cougar psu died last night so..

 

Not a waste of money.

Wait, you have dual 390Xs.

 

1050 is fine lol

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Just now, STRMfrmXMN said:

Wait, you have dual 390Xs.

 

1050 is fine lol

Lol yeah I know it is.

 

I ordered a new psu last week and it came right in time as the other decided to turn off and not turn back on again last night.

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9 hours ago, Rohime said:

Issue 1:  The thing with power points is that there is usually multiple on a power circuit.

And Power circuits (terminating at the fuse box) will have a maximum load (in Amp).

 

So normally there is a certain number of power points per circuit based on lots of assumptions.

Lets say for the sake of argument that the 'allowance' of Amps per circuit is 40, with 4 power points per, this would mean each Power point has an 'allowance' of 10amps.

 

if you attach a 4 point power strip to that original power point, then you now have an allowance of 2.5 Amp per point on the strip.

 

so a 1050W device at 120Volt is drawing 8.5 Amp (if i got my math right) ... 

So there fore i would EXPECT the recommendation to be "plug it in directly to a power point (with a 10 amp allowance) and not into a power strip that might have lots of other devices.... 

 

Ignore the actual numbers (40,10, 2.5 etc) ... your country may be different ... but you get the point, yes ?

 

ie: its a safety issue.   if you know everything else on the power circuit is a low current device then you will be fine.

even if you dont know ... what should happen on overload is you blow a fuse.   This is why fuses exist.

 

Issue 2:   Some extension leads are shit quality and will not handle the current (amps) ... only use good ones.

--------------------

 

TL:DR --- use a good extension lead and it should be fine.  if it not, you will blow a fuse.   if you blow a fuse, then take other stuff off the power circuit till it dont happen no more. 

Worst case bad leads will burn down your house and kill your family.

I am not too familiar with the American electrical system, but I know that ring mains (Several sockets on one circuit, wired in a ring) is unique to the UK and a few other countries. Most places in America have a breaker for each point.

 

 

10 hours ago, Cryptonite said:

if I knew more about american power (120 volts or w/e) I'd be able to help.

Here in South Africa though the only thing that would change by plugging it in a power strip would maybe make it drop like 100w of power so it would be able to push 950w at the worst case scenario

Erm... No...

 

If an extension cable or multi-way adaptor is not rated for the current passed through it, it will heat up, and potentially catch on fire.

 

The wattage drawn by the appliance will not change. Voltage may drop, because of a change in resistance.

 

 

If you tried plugging in a 1050 watt PSU in a cable water at 1000 watts, nothing would happen. Cables are actually rated at a little more than what they say they are. They have to be for safety.

 

What you said is completely untrue.

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10 hours ago, Dive5885 said:

Long story short.

 

My new power supply says it needs to be plugged directly into the wall and not into a power strip due to it being high wattage..

 

My question here is, how safe is it for it to be plugged into the wall and not a power strip?

 

If its not safe, I was thinking of getting this: https://www.amazon.com/Furman-MIW-SURGE-1G-Single--Wall-Protector/dp/B004U70SP6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1476525066&sr=8-5&keywords=Furman+Outlet

 

Thoughts?

There are two reasons they may recommend that:

 

1) because you may plug other stuff to the same strip, causing it to overload

2) because even if it's the only thing plugged to it, you may exceed the current rating for the strip.

 

Regarding (2), it really matters which electrical system you have. For example, the strips I have in my house are rated for 10A, which with 220-240V means 2200-2400W. I wouldn't hesitate to plug that PSU to a power strip.

However, if you are using 110-120V, a 10A rated cable would imply 1100-1200W. So you should still be fine (given in principle you don't rate a cable for 10A if it can only hold 10A, or 10.001A, not to mention 99A :P), but to be on the safe side, and given that you may forget later on and plug more stuff into the strip, they recommend not to use a strip at all.

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A power strip is typically rated for some wattage. The rating is due to the metal contacts inside the power strip and the thickness of the cables from the power strip to the wall socket. 

The maximum power a single outlet can provide is usually 1800 watts in US (120v x 15A). In Europe it's common to have up to 16A at 230v or around 3680 watts.

 

The power supply will deliver 1050w to components with about 85-90% efficiency, so the power supply will draw about 100w more in addition to those 1050w.

Basically, they don't recommend using a power strip because the power strip may be too cheaply made, with contacts too loose or weak, or because you may plug additonal devices in the power strip and go over the maximum wattage the power strip can handle (usually 1800w in US). Also, cheap power strips assume that the power will be somewhat evenly distributed between outlets/sockets in the strip, so if you have a 5 socket power strip, some of the people designing strips just divide 1800w by 5 and get 360w and then just round it up and come up with something like 500w per socket and size the internal metal bars or wires inside the power strip for these figures.  On cheap power strips, the assumption is that in total the power strip is rated for 1800w, but each socket may be rated for much less.

 

However, in your case it's extremely unlikely that you have such a configuration that you're even going over.. let's say 500-600 watts... maybe if you have more than two video cards in your system you would draw more than 600-700w when gaming. So on average, your power supply will work just fine with or without a power strip, they're just covering their a**es with that statement, for the worst situations possible (maximum load on psu).

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7 hours ago, Dive5885 said:

Lol yeah I know it is.

 

I ordered a new psu last week and it came right in time as the other decided to turn off and not turn back on again last night.

 

Oh shit...so it was the power supply starting to give way...wow.

Not because it was not enough output wattage, but it was actually starting to fail.

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15 hours ago, Emmien said:

I am not too familiar with the American electrical system, but I know that ring mains (Several sockets on one circuit, wired in a ring) is unique to the UK and a few other countries. Most places in America have a breaker for each point.

 

 

Erm... No...

 

If an extension cable or multi-way adaptor is not rated for the current passed through it, it will heat up, and potentially catch on fire.

 

The wattage drawn by the appliance will not change. Voltage may drop, because of a change in resistance.

 

 

If you tried plugging in a 1050 watt PSU in a cable water at 1000 watts, nothing would happen. Cables are actually rated at a little more than what they say they are. They have to be for safety.

 

What you said is completely untrue.

what I meant to say was that you would be able to pull 950 watts from it safely, a PSU never does pull its entire wattage unless you have a crapton of shit in your pc to make you pull 1000 watt from the wall. 

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17 hours ago, -rascal- said:

 

Oh shit...so it was the power supply starting to give way...wow.

Not because it was not enough output wattage, but it was actually starting to fail.

Yep!

 

I was playing R6 Siege and the system shut off randomly and would not turn back on.

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