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Hey guys, does anybody have horrible experience of removing thermal paste from cpu socket of 1150 motherboard, yes i know evolution will take care of people like me, and my plans to participate in BF4 beta are ruined, but just curious if anybody successfully solved this problem with out buying new motherboard. I did attempt to clean it and got most of the stuff off with the needle and alcohol, it was just little bit, maybe covering 4 -5 pins, but simply cant see pass them even with magnifying glass if there any paste is smudged on the underneath the pins, is there is a way to test if the socket operates properly and there is no connection between the pins because of the thermal compound, with out the processor being installed in it?

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Just gotta say... HOW?

 

Like helping said - I would take alcohol and flush it and use an air canister to blow away excess fluid. The alcohol will attempt to dissolve any residual paste.

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how do dis?

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Seriously.. How.. :P

The idea is CPU first and then thermal compound..

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Seriously.. How.. :P

The idea is CPU first and then thermal compound..

Weird things happen with computers. Friend of mine slipped and ended up with thermal compound in a PCI slot. Hopefully the compound isn't conductive. As others have mentioned try 99% ethyl alcohol to get the compound out and then let it dry (like really dry), if the board lets you boot into the bios without a cpu installed try that, that way you dont risk killing you chip as well as the board.

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Weird things happen with computers. Friend of mine slipped and ended up with thermal compound in a PCI slot. Hopefully the compound isn't conductive. As others have mentioned try 99% ethyl alcohol to get the compound out and then let it dry (like really dry), if the board lets you boot into the bios without a cpu installed try that, that way you dont risk killing you chip as well as the board.

Yeah, that is true.

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Thank you guys you are the best :D  :D !!! I did this build before i knew any better and i had put half a tube there to make sure it stays nice and cool  :wub:  , today i decided to fix it and at the time i though that stuff had already solidify, but when i was pulling the processor out the paste kinda stretched and some got in to the socket ))) Ill try flashing it with isopropyl alcohol and airbrush tomorrow! I am just afraid that when i flash it down the washed residue will make a contact with circuitry underneath the socket and mess things up down there? as of right now it is like this its, on the bottom left corner, it was way worse, spend half a day cleaning the area with qtips and tooth picks :P

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Thank you guys you are the best :D  :D !!! I did this build before i knew any better and i had put half a tube there to make sure it stays nice and cool  :wub:  , today i decided to fix it and at the time i though that stuff had already solidify, but when i was pulling the processor out the paste kinda stretched and some got in to the socket ))) Ill try flashing it with isopropyl alcohol and airbrush tomorrow! I am just afraid that when i flash it down the washed residue will make a contact with circuitry underneath the socket and mess things up down there? as of right now it is like this its, on the bottom left corner, it was way worse, spend half a day cleaning the area with qtips and tooth picks :P

 

Good luck man, do you know which thermal compound you used? Would be good to know if it is conductive or not. When you get the alcohol on there the compound should turn to a thin "soup" you might try using a folded coffee filter to 'pull' some of it out, the filter is strong and absorbent and lint free (I use filters to clean the heat sinks when I change compound it works great and is cheap). After that just be very diligent and hope for the best, let us know how it goes.

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eh there is an extreme solution: washing it of with watter and just letting it dry for 2-3 days 

Please DON'T do this. There are lots of additives in water (minerals, cholorine, florine, metals, god knows what else) you dont want that stuff left behind when it dries to short the board. That's why you use alcohol, it evaporates quickly with no residue (assuming it is pure or near pure).

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Good luck man, do you know which thermal compound you used? Would be good to know if it is conductive or not. When you get the alcohol on there the compound should turn to a thin "soup" you might try using a folded coffee filter to 'pull' some of it out, the filter is strong and absorbent and lint free (I use filters to clean the heat sinks when I change compound it works great and is cheap). After that just be very diligent and hope for the best, let us know how it goes.

Thank you Saladin! I only used qtips to clean around the socket, but never went on to the pins i am afraid, as they are to gentle, i think coffee filter might have the same affect if used directly on the pins as it still have the fibres that might catch on to pins and pull them out and they are kind of a little hooks, but it would be great for flat surface! I just finished cleaning it with artistic brush I read about people doing it and having luck with it, but i will still give it spray with 99% Isopropyl alcohol from airbrush (thanks ttam!)  i am using 70% now, thats all pharmacy had in stock, i am just afraid to be to aggressive with it until i get 99% one. as airbrush will get it in a the little crevasses and water might not dry out  i am leaving it under a mini fan so it can dry the best it can.  Dont remember exactly what was the paste but i think it was Arctic Silver i looked in the store and at least thats what the packaging looked like but i am not sure i just dont want to lie and get some one burn their system  :( will post result tomorrow!

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eh there is an extreme solution: washing it of with watter and just letting it dry for 2-3 days 

 

 

Please DON'T do this. There are lots of additives in water (minerals, cholorine, florine, metals, god knows what else) you dont want that stuff left behind when it dries to short the board. That's why you use alcohol, it evaporates quickly with no residue (assuming it is pure or near pure).

 

 

actually it was the first idea that came to mind  :D horrible horrible idea  :D sorry no offence pclego =))

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actually it was the first idea that came to mind  :D horrible horrible idea  :D sorry no offence pclego =))

no problem it was just ment as a joke :P 

If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough it will be believed.

-Adolf Hitler 

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Be sure to taste test the thermal paste

Off topic... I love that account name :D

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Hey guys would you know how to get in to the bios with out CPU installed, i have 24 and 8 pin connectors attached to it, but nothing else, and when i turn it on red CPU led comes on and nothing happens :(  does it mean that i have to get a new mobo? :(

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Hey guys would you know how to get in to the bios with out CPU installed, i have 24 and 8 pin connectors attached to it, but nothing else, and when i turn it on red CPU led comes on and nothing happens :(  does it mean that i have to get a new mobo? :(

Depends on if your motherboard supports booting to bios without a CPU (depends on who made it and which model it is), usually you hit DEL or F2 after it is turned on

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How do you do this?

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I don't think any motherboard is supposed to boot without the CPU installed; the whole point of a Power-On Self-Test is to make sure all the vital components of the system are functioning.  I could be wrong, maybe some do.  But there's nothing wrong with your motherboard if it doesn't.

 

And don't worry too much about little bits of paste that may still be in the socket; if you have a non-conductive paste like Arctic Cooling MX-4 or similar then that won't cause any problems whatsoever.

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I don't think any motherboard is supposed to boot without the CPU installed; the whole point of a Power-On Self-Test is to make sure all the vital components of the system are functioning.  I could be wrong, maybe some do.  But there's nothing wrong with your motherboard if it doesn't.

 

And don't worry too much about little bits of paste that may still be in the socket; if you have a non-conductive paste like Arctic Cooling MX-4 or similar then that won't cause any problems whatsoever.

A lot of the ASUS board will boot to BIOS without a CPU, I believe the same is true of some Gigabit boards. Its not a feature that is normally used but it is nice to test a board and see if it is functional.

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no the board wont boot =(, i just got my self another board =( the tech at a store said they can take a look in to it if i brink it to them, i did remove the battery to flash the bios, but it would do the same thing red cpu led would come up and stay on. i am just going to take it to the store and see if they can figure it out. ill post result here!

 

Thanks for all your help guys :) !!!!

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