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Help Optimize My Office Internet

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I'm looking to upgrade my internet solution in my work space from all the provided hardware of my ISP to after market solutions that will result in better speeds overall, wireless and wired as well.

 

With my basic understanding from this article: (http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/hubs-switches-routers-access-points-differ#1TC=windows-7), I need to begin by returning my junky 2 in 1 router + modem for just an independent router. Then for my wired connection I need to get a switch with enough ports for all my devices, along with my future access point (8 inputs would be sufficient). Are there any major differences between switches that I should note when purchasing? Since I only want to buy this hard ware one time, I would like to get the best for my dollar right off the bat so I'm not scrambling for a better solution later.

 

Next, I would need to get an access point(s) for my wireless network. I was looking at the Xclaim XI-3 that Linus did the video about since he said it was a good small business solution. Once that is all placed accordingly and set up, I would have a wireless network ready to go.

 

Is there anything that I'm missing that I need to have my internet fully up and running both wired and wirelessly? 

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I'm looking to upgrade my internet solution in my work space from all the provided hardware of my ISP to after market solutions that will result in better speeds overall, wireless and wired as well.

 

With my basic understanding from this article: (http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/hubs-switches-routers-access-points-differ#1TC=windows-7), I need to begin by returning my junky 2 in 1 router + modem for just an independent router. Then for my wired connection I need to get a switch with enough ports for all my devices, along with my future access point (8 inputs would be sufficient). Are there any major differences between switches that I should note when purchasing? Since I only want to buy this hard ware one time, I would like to get the best for my dollar right off the bat so I'm not scrambling for a better solution later.

 

Next, I would need to get an access point(s) for my wireless network. I was looking at the Xclaim XI-3 that Linus did the video about since he said it was a good small business solution. Once that is all placed accordingly and set up, I would have a wireless network ready to go.

 

Is there anything that I'm missing that I need to have my internet fully up and running both wired and wirelessly? 

Before we get too far, we should clarify some terms, and some of the required equipment.

 

First question:

What kind of internet do you have in the office? DSL (comes from a phone line)? Cable (Comes from a coaxial cable, like Cable TV, uses different protocols, such as DOCSIS 2.0, 3.0, etc)? Direct Fibre (Usually is already converted to ethernet, but could also be an actual fibre line)?

 

What are your speeds as well? Download and upload.

 

So, now on to the required hardware:

1. Modem (Or media converter for Fibre) - this is the device that takes the incoming line (phone line, coax cable, etc) and converts it into an ethernet signal that your local network can understand, and gives you your External (Wide Area Network - WAN) IP Address.

2. Router - this is the device that applies Network Address Translation (NAT), which takes the external IP Address, and creates a Local Area Network (LAN), and gives you all your local IP Addresses. NAT takes the single external IP Address, and gives you many (254, to be exact) local IP Addresses.

3. Switch - This is basically an ethernet "multiplier". It takes a single ethernet port, and adds more. Switches (Consumer ones anyway) are dumb, and are essentially controlled by the router.

4. Wireless Access Point - this device creates your WIFI network.

 

Now that we have that out of the way, many of these individual devices are often combined into a single device.

 

For example, a consumer router usually has the following built in:

1. A router - obviously

2. A switch - usually 4 port, but sometimes more

3. A Wireless Access Point

 

Some, which are often referred to as a "Gateway Device" or a "Modem Router", combine the above 3 items with a Modem too.

 

In your case, you should be looking to do the following:

1. Get a separate, standalone modem, of the appropriate technology (ADSL2+, VDSL2, DOCSIS 2.0, DOCSIS 3.0, etc) that can handle your connection type and speed.

2. Get a good quality Router - you can go enterprise grade if you want, but it honestly depends on number of users, etc. If you are planning on getting a dedicated Wireless Access Point, then you should get a standalone Router - most "Wireless AP" manufacturers will sell a Router from the same lineup. If you are not planning on getting a dedicated Access Point, then the router should include the WIFI technology you want (Wireless N, or the newer Wireless AC).

3. Get a large Gigabit switch, with enough ports to wire all your computers, plus some extra ports for future expansion (Also remember that one port will be used up by connecting to the router). No need to get a managed switch, unless you're planning on creating VLAN's or using port specific rules/management. TP-Link make excellent consumer grade Gigabit switches for cheap that are good quality - great for Small Businesses.

 

Once we find out what kind of internet you have, then we can start discussing which particular way you'd like to create your setup (dedicated Wireless Access Point, or built-in WIFI on the router, for example).

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Before we get too far, we should clarify some terms, and some of the required equipment.

 

First question:

What kind of internet do you have in the office? DSL (comes from a phone line)? Cable (Comes from a coaxial cable, like Cable TV, uses different protocols, such as DOCSIS 2.0, 3.0, etc)? Direct Fibre (Usually is already converted to ethernet, but could also be an actual fibre line)?

 

What are your speeds as well? Download and upload.

 

So, now on to the required hardware:

1. Modem (Or media converter for Fibre) - this is the device that takes the incoming line (phone line, coax cable, etc) and converts it into an ethernet signal that your local network can understand, and gives you your External (Wide Area Network - WAN) IP Address.

2. Router - this is the device that applies Network Address Translation (NAT), which takes the external IP Address, and creates a Local Area Network (LAN), and gives you all your local IP Addresses. NAT takes the single external IP Address, and gives you many (254, to be exact) local IP Addresses.

3. Switch - This is basically an ethernet "multiplier". It takes a single ethernet port, and adds more. Switches (Consumer ones anyway) are dumb, and are essentially controlled by the router.

4. Wireless Access Point - this device creates your WIFI network.

 

Now that we have that out of the way, many of these individual devices are often combined into a single device.

 

For example, a consumer router usually has the following built in:

1. A router - obviously

2. A switch - usually 4 port, but sometimes more

3. A Wireless Access Point

 

Some, which are often referred to as a "Gateway Device" or a "Modem Router", combine the above 3 items with a Modem too.

 

In your case, you should be looking to do the following:

1. Get a separate, standalone modem, of the appropriate technology (ADSL2+, VDSL2, DOCSIS 2.0, DOCSIS 3.0, etc) that can handle your connection type and speed.

2. Get a good quality Router - you can go enterprise grade if you want, but it honestly depends on number of users, etc. If you are planning on getting a dedicated Wireless Access Point, then you should get a standalone Router - most "Wireless AP" manufacturers will sell a Router from the same lineup. If you are not planning on getting a dedicated Access Point, then the router should include the WIFI technology you want (Wireless N, or the newer Wireless AC).

3. Get a large Gigabit switch, with enough ports to wire all your computers, plus some extra ports for future expansion (Also remember that one port will be used up by connecting to the router). No need to get a managed switch, unless you're planning on creating VLAN's or using port specific rules/management. TP-Link make excellent consumer grade Gigabit switches for cheap that are good quality - great for Small Businesses.

 

Once we find out what kind of internet you have, then we can start discussing which particular way you'd like to create your setup (dedicated Wireless Access Point, or built-in WIFI on the router, for example).

 

We have Cable internet via Comcast Xfinity on the fastest plan available (75mbps). Our speeds (just took these) are 126.22 Down, 24.38 Up, 10 Ping. Our speeds are fine when only one person is using them, we start to experience problems though when multiple clients are on the network.

 

Right now I have a Gateway Device by Arris which isn't cutting our wireless needs at all, that's why I figured to separate everything and get a modem, switch, and access point.

 

Thanks for all the help thus far!

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We have Cable internet via Comcast Xfinity on the fastest plan available (75mbps). Our speeds (just took these) are 126.22 Down, 24.38 Up, 10 Ping. Our speeds are fine when only one person is using them, we start to experience problems though when multiple clients are on the network.

 

Right now I have a Gateway Device by Arris which isn't cutting our wireless needs at all, that's why I figured to separate everything and get a modem, switch, and access point.

 

Thanks for all the help thus far!

No problem. You still need a Router though, unless you buy a Modem that has a built in router - which are generally bad Routers.

 

How many total users are you expected to have? Please break down between wired and wireless users as well.

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No problem. You still need a Router though, unless you buy a Modem that has a built in router - which are generally bad Routers.

 

How many total users are you expected to have? Please break down between wired and wireless users as well.

I definitely will not be buying anymore combo units. Is the Linksys EA6500 a good option? (I'm just going off of the videos I find since I have no prior knowledge on this subject).

 

On an average day we have 5 users using both wired and wireless, their computers are wired and their tablets/laptops run off the wireless network. On some occasions though we can have as many as 8 users using the wireless network, but still only 5 on the wired.

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I definitely will not be buying anymore combo units. Is the Linksys EA6500 a good option? (I'm just going off of the videos I find since I have no prior knowledge on this subject).

 

On an average day we have 5 users using both wired and wireless, their computers are wired and their tablets/laptops run off the wireless network. On some occasions though we can have as many as 8 users using the wireless network, but still only 5 on the wired.

How big is the building that needs Wireless Coverage? square footage, rough estimate. How many floors, etc.

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How big is the building that needs Wireless Coverage? square footage, rough estimate. How many floors, etc.

Roughly 2700 square feet, with 3 floors (one level being underground)

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Roughly 2700 square feet, with 3 floors (one level being underground)

With that many floors, you're likely going to want to get three Access Points if you can afford it, otherwise your WIFI coverage on two of the floors is going to be poor.

 

However, you can always start off with just one AP and expand afterwards if the signal is too poor.

 

1. Modem:

Arris Touchstone DOCSIS 3.0 8x4 channel bonding modem - $70

http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Touchstone-Cable-Modem-DOCSIS/dp/B008GG78FU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450581102&sr=8-1&keywords=docsis+3.0+modem+8x4

Cisco makes a good alternative as well, there are also 16x4 channel modems, but the higher the channels only matters for higher speeds (potential future upgrades). The 8x4 channel Arris modem should be good for upwards of 250 Mbps or higher.

 

2. Router:

ASUS RT-N66U - $100

http://www.amazon.com/RT-N66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-N900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B006QB1RPY/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1450580381&sr=1-2&keywords=asus+router

You don't want to spend too much here, since you'll just be disabling the built-in WIFI. The Linksys one that Linus recently reviewed is also good, but it's going to be even more expensive. I personally have used this specific ASUS router, and it's great. You could even go with a lower model, such as the N56U, and save some money, but this one is very solid.

 

3. Switch:

TP-LINK TL-SG108 8-Port Gigabit Switch - $25

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SG108-1000Mbps-Desktop-Gigabit/dp/B00A121WN6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1450580476&sr=1-1&keywords=8+port+gigabit+switch

These are great units, very reliable. An 8-port unit will give you 2-extra ports for expansion (Since you need 5-ports, plus a 6th port for uplink to the router).

 

If you want better expandability:

TRENDnet TEG-S16DG 16-Port Gigabit Switch - $70

http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-16-Port-Unmanaged-GREENnet-TEG-S16DG/dp/B0044GJ516/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1450580487&sr=1-4&keywords=16+port+gigabit+switch

This unit is very well reviewed, though I haven't personally used it.

 

4. Access Point:

Ubiquiti Unifi UAP-AC-PRO - $200

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UAP-AC-PRO/dp/B015WNL9CW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1450580889&sr=8-4&keywords=Unifi+AP+AC+pro

These are fantastic "enterprise grade" Prosumer Access Ports. I would start with one on the main floor, and see how the signal is on the other two floors, unless you REALLY need full WIFI signal on every floor - in that case, get three of these.

 

You'll have to configure each one independently, but you can give all three AP's the same SSID and password. That way, devices (phones, laptops, etc) will automatically switch to the next closest device when they lose signal to the first one.

 

The AP supports PoE (Power over Ethernet - allows you to power the AP using just the Ethernet Cable, without plugging in a wall adapter into the AP). If you want to take advantage of that, you can either buy a Switch with built-in PoE (Can get very expensive), or just buy a PoE injector for each AP. A PoE injector basically has an Ethernet port on either end, plus a cable that plugs into an outlet, and supplies power to the Ethernet Cable.

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With that many floors, you're likely going to want to get three Access Points if you can afford it, otherwise your WIFI coverage on two of the floors is going to be poor.

 

However, you can always start off with just one AP and expand afterwards if the signal is too poor.

 

1. Modem:

Arris Touchstone DOCSIS 3.0 8x4 channel bonding modem - $70

http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Touchstone-Cable-Modem-DOCSIS/dp/B008GG78FU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450581102&sr=8-1&keywords=docsis+3.0+modem+8x4

Cisco makes a good alternative as well, there are also 16x4 channel modems, but the higher the channels only matters for higher speeds (potential future upgrades). The 8x4 channel Arris modem should be good for upwards of 250 Mbps or higher.

 

2. Router:

ASUS RT-N66U - $100

http://www.amazon.com/RT-N66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-N900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B006QB1RPY/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1450580381&sr=1-2&keywords=asus+router

You don't want to spend too much here, since you'll just be disabling the built-in WIFI. The Linksys one that Linus recently reviewed is also good, but it's going to be even more expensive. I personally have used this specific ASUS router, and it's great. You could even go with a lower model, such as the N56U, and save some money, but this one is very solid.

 

3. Switch:

TP-LINK TL-SG108 8-Port Gigabit Switch - $25

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SG108-1000Mbps-Desktop-Gigabit/dp/B00A121WN6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1450580476&sr=1-1&keywords=8+port+gigabit+switch

These are great units, very reliable. An 8-port unit will give you 2-extra ports for expansion (Since you need 5-ports, plus a 6th port for uplink to the router).

 

If you want better expandability:

TRENDnet TEG-S16DG 16-Port Gigabit Switch - $70

http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-16-Port-Unmanaged-GREENnet-TEG-S16DG/dp/B0044GJ516/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1450580487&sr=1-4&keywords=16+port+gigabit+switch

This unit is very well reviewed, though I haven't personally used it.

 

4. Access Point:

Ubiquiti Unifi UAP-AC-PRO - $200

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UAP-AC-PRO/dp/B015WNL9CW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1450580889&sr=8-4&keywords=Unifi+AP+AC+pro

These are fantastic "enterprise grade" Prosumer Access Ports. I would start with one on the main floor, and see how the signal is on the other two floors, unless you REALLY need full WIFI signal on every floor - in that case, get three of these.

 

You'll have to configure each one independently, but you can give all three AP's the same SSID and password. That way, devices (phones, laptops, etc) will automatically switch to the next closest device when they lose signal to the first one.

 

The AP supports PoE (Power over Ethernet - allows you to power the AP using just the Ethernet Cable, without plugging in a wall adapter into the AP). If you want to take advantage of that, you can either buy a Switch with built-in PoE (Can get very expensive), or just buy a PoE injector for each AP. A PoE injector basically has an Ethernet port on either end, plus a cable that plugs into an outlet, and supplies power to the Ethernet Cable.

Wow, thank you so much for the run down! I'm going to try to order all this on Monday and begin to set it up. I think for now I'll start with a single AP and see if I need to expand more later.

 

I will report back once everything is up and running, and hopefully getting our work done faster! Thank you so much for all your help!

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Wow, thank you so much for the run down! I'm going to try to order all this on Monday and begin to set it up. I think for now I'll start with a single AP and see if I need to expand more later.

 

I will report back once everything is up and running, and hopefully getting our work done faster! Thank you so much for all your help!

Great, I look forward to your report. Let us know how the setup process goes, and how everything works once in place.

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You could also consider the following.

 

Router: Ubiquiti ER-X $60 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0XP-000A-00001

Router: Ubiquiti ERLite-3 $100 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0XP-000A-00001

 

Reasoning for using these is they are again more business grade equipment and are pure routers with more advanced routing features, granted you are unlikely to use them. Also you can do QoS and traffic shaping to help address fair sharing of internet connectivity between devices. See link for example, was only a quick look for one.

 

https://community.ubnt.com/t5/EdgeMAX/Traffic-shaping/td-p/667263

 

I haven't used traffic shapping on Ubiquiti gear but I have on FortiGate and it's extremely effective, very much required when there are many many users.

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With that many floors, you're likely going to want to get three Access Points if you can afford it, otherwise your WIFI coverage on two of the floors is going to be poor.

 

However, you can always start off with just one AP and expand afterwards if the signal is too poor.

 

1. Modem:

Arris Touchstone DOCSIS 3.0 8x4 channel bonding modem - $70

http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Touchstone-Cable-Modem-DOCSIS/dp/B008GG78FU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450581102&sr=8-1&keywords=docsis+3.0+modem+8x4

Cisco makes a good alternative as well, there are also 16x4 channel modems, but the higher the channels only matters for higher speeds (potential future upgrades). The 8x4 channel Arris modem should be good for upwards of 250 Mbps or higher.

 

2. Router:

ASUS RT-N66U - $100

http://www.amazon.com/RT-N66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-N900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B006QB1RPY/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1450580381&sr=1-2&keywords=asus+router

You don't want to spend too much here, since you'll just be disabling the built-in WIFI. The Linksys one that Linus recently reviewed is also good, but it's going to be even more expensive. I personally have used this specific ASUS router, and it's great. You could even go with a lower model, such as the N56U, and save some money, but this one is very solid.

 

3. Switch:

TP-LINK TL-SG108 8-Port Gigabit Switch - $25

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SG108-1000Mbps-Desktop-Gigabit/dp/B00A121WN6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1450580476&sr=1-1&keywords=8+port+gigabit+switch

These are great units, very reliable. An 8-port unit will give you 2-extra ports for expansion (Since you need 5-ports, plus a 6th port for uplink to the router).

 

If you want better expandability:

TRENDnet TEG-S16DG 16-Port Gigabit Switch - $70

http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-16-Port-Unmanaged-GREENnet-TEG-S16DG/dp/B0044GJ516/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1450580487&sr=1-4&keywords=16+port+gigabit+switch

This unit is very well reviewed, though I haven't personally used it.

 

4. Access Point:

Ubiquiti Unifi UAP-AC-PRO - $200

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UAP-AC-PRO/dp/B015WNL9CW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1450580889&sr=8-4&keywords=Unifi+AP+AC+pro

These are fantastic "enterprise grade" Prosumer Access Ports. I would start with one on the main floor, and see how the signal is on the other two floors, unless you REALLY need full WIFI signal on every floor - in that case, get three of these.

 

You'll have to configure each one independently, but you can give all three AP's the same SSID and password. That way, devices (phones, laptops, etc) will automatically switch to the next closest device when they lose signal to the first one.

 

The AP supports PoE (Power over Ethernet - allows you to power the AP using just the Ethernet Cable, without plugging in a wall adapter into the AP). If you want to take advantage of that, you can either buy a Switch with built-in PoE (Can get very expensive), or just buy a PoE injector for each AP. A PoE injector basically has an Ethernet port on either end, plus a cable that plugs into an outlet, and supplies power to the Ethernet Cable.

I agree with your recommendations. I love my TP-LINK equipment. For my 8-port switch, I have the TL-SG1008D http://amzn.to/22hOVur.

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I agree with your recommendations. I love my TP-LINK equipment. For my 8-port switch, I have the TL-SG1008D http://amzn.to/22hOVur.

I also have an 8-port TP-Link switch, but I have the model with the slick metal housing. It looks so nice :) TP-Link make freaking awesome consumer switches.

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Everything came today and was installed!

 

Our Down/Up + Ping is virtually the same, all within margin of error. We are able to get these speeds across more wired computers at one time, which we were not able to do prior. So on that side, it was a success!

 

I'm a little confused on how to make sure the Wifi is all set up correctly. I have the AC plugged in and all, that is not the issue. What I am confused as to how to do is shut off the Wifi on the Asus router, and make it so that only the AC is sending off Wifi signal. Currently I have 3 separate networks: one for the router 2.4, the router 5, and for the AC. How do I set it up so that the AC is the only network? 

 

Thanks for all the help! I am happy with all of the results thus far!

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Everything came today and was installed!

 

Our Down/Up + Ping is virtually the same, all within margin of error. We are able to get these speeds across more wired computers at one time, which we were not able to do prior. So on that side, it was a success!

 

I'm a little confused on how to make sure the Wifi is all set up correctly. I have the AC plugged in and all, that is not the issue. What I am confused as to how to do is shut off the Wifi on the Asus router, and make it so that only the AC is sending off Wifi signal. Currently I have 3 separate networks: one for the router 2.4, the router 5, and for the AC. How do I set it up so that the AC is the only network? 

 

Thanks for all the help! I am happy with all of the results thus far!

When you say "The AC", you mean the Unifi AP AC Pro?

 

To disable the WIFI on the ASUS Router, you have to go into the Router config page (usually 192.168.1.1), go into the "Wireless" settings, which should be under the Advanced Settings on the left side.

 

At this point, you should find an option to disable the WIFI radios (There are 2, the 2.4 GHz radio and the 5 GHz radio - you want to disable both). The user manual I found on the ASUS website doesn't even tell  you what's inside the Advanced Wireless settings menu, so I'm just guessing about the exact specific spot.

 

If you still need help, you'll need to post some screenshots of the ASUS Web config page (Just make sure to edit out the WAN IP Address if it shows up in any of the screenshots).

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When you say "The AC", you mean the Unifi AP AC Pro?

 

To disable the WIFI on the ASUS Router, you have to go into the Router config page (usually 192.168.1.1), go into the "Wireless" settings, which should be under the Advanced Settings on the left side.

 

At this point, you should find an option to disable the WIFI radios (There are 2, the 2.4 GHz radio and the 5 GHz radio - you want to disable both). The user manual I found on the ASUS website doesn't even tell  you what's inside the Advanced Wireless settings menu, so I'm just guessing about the exact specific spot.

 

If you still need help, you'll need to post some screenshots of the ASUS Web config page (Just make sure to edit out the WAN IP Address if it shows up in any of the screenshots).

Yes, I mean the Unifi AP AC Pro, sorry for not being more clear.

 

When I go into the Wireless settings under the Advanced Tab, this is what I am getting:

http://imgur.com/Tpnm4Ic

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Yes, I mean the Unifi AP AC Pro, sorry for not being more clear.

 

When I go into the Wireless settings under the Advanced Tab, this is what I am getting:

http://imgur.com/Tpnm4Ic

There are a bunch of tabs across the top that got cut off in the image. What are those tabs called? If there is one called "Professional", that might have the option in there.

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Here is what I find when I go into the "Professional Tab":

 

http://imgur.com/RI8twK3

 

Additionally, I found this, and I'm not sure if this is where I need to be? In the "WPS" Tab:

 

http://imgur.com/qZYHZyv

Ah, there it is under "Professional".

 

2nd option from the top "Enable Radio: Yes No"

 

You'll want to select "Band: 2.4 GHz" from the first option, select "Enable Radio: No", then hit apply. Then select 5 GHz from that same drop down selector at the top, and disable the radio again.

 

You can ignore WPS. That's just a specific method of joining the WIFI network - which will be useless once you disable the radios.

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Ah, there it is under "Professional".

 

2nd option from the top "Enable Radio: Yes No"

 

You'll want to select "Band: 2.4 GHz" from the first option, select "Enable Radio: No", then hit apply. Then select 5 GHz from that same drop down selector at the top, and disable the radio again.

 

You can ignore WPS. That's just a specific method of joining the WIFI network - which will be useless once you disable the radios.

Awesome! Worked perfectly.

 

After testing my wireless from various points in the office, we've seen a lot of improvement when a lot of users are online! Our Average speeds are 70 down, 17 up! Thats a HUGE improvement over what we had just last week (around 25 down 5 up).

 

So, the upgrade was a huge success! I want to thank you so much for helping me out with all of this, it would not have been possible without your assistance throughout. Thank you so much and have a good Christmas my friend! 

 

 

Is this different from the firmware the website automatically downloaded when I first logged into it?

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Awesome! Worked perfectly.

 

After testing my wireless from various points in the office, we've seen a lot of improvement when a lot of users are online! Our Average speeds are 70 down, 17 up! Thats a HUGE improvement over what we had just last week (around 25 down 5 up).

 

So, the upgrade was a huge success! I want to thank you so much for helping me out with all of this, it would not have been possible without your assistance throughout. Thank you so much and have a good Christmas my friend! 

 

 

Is this different from the firmware the website automatically downloaded when I first logged into it?

The firmware that @techguru linked is a custom firmware for your model of Router.

 

Honestly, for what you're using it for, I would not bother. It's just one more unnecessary complication and something more to configure and setup.

 

@techguru do you have any justification for him using the custom firmware?

For Sale: Meraki Bundle

 

iPhone Xr 128 GB Product Red - HP Spectre x360 13" (i5 - 8 GB RAM - 256 GB SSD) - HP ZBook 15v G5 15" (i7-8850H - 16 GB RAM - 512 GB SSD - NVIDIA Quadro P600)

 

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Awesome! Worked perfectly.

 

After testing my wireless from various points in the office, we've seen a lot of improvement when a lot of users are online! Our Average speeds are 70 down, 17 up! Thats a HUGE improvement over what we had just last week (around 25 down 5 up).

 

So, the upgrade was a huge success! I want to thank you so much for helping me out with all of this, it would not have been possible without your assistance throughout. Thank you so much and have a good Christmas my friend! 

 

 

Is this different from the firmware the website automatically downloaded when I first logged into it?

that firmware is better for that router..should give you a better ping...better stability...new features as well...alot more bug free then the retail firmware

If you need remote help fixing something on your computer

I can help over Teamviewer if you wish

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that firmware is better for that router..should give you a better ping...better stability...new features as well...alot more bug free then the retail firmware

Honestly I wouldn't have the OP bother unless they run into issued.

For Sale: Meraki Bundle

 

iPhone Xr 128 GB Product Red - HP Spectre x360 13" (i5 - 8 GB RAM - 256 GB SSD) - HP ZBook 15v G5 15" (i7-8850H - 16 GB RAM - 512 GB SSD - NVIDIA Quadro P600)

 

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