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3770k DE lid, Coollaboratory liquid metal, or actual solder?

Solder is indeed the riskiest method. Solder melting temps are 200-300 Celsius unless you know the correct technique and have the right equipment I'd pass

I am sure that can be found. It is easier to use a TIM but you will have to reapply every time you remove the CPU. If you are going to use a TIM however, use liquid metal, pro or ultra, either one will be good. Now if you want to go another route you can use EK bare ivy bridge CPU mounting kit for their waterblocks.

http://www.tomshardware.com/news/Water-Cooling-IHS-Intel-Ivy,21744.html

A water-cooled mid-tier gaming PC.

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Clearly you don't understand the point of dliding a CPU.

not on this specific cpu......

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I am sure that can be found. It is easier to use a TIM but you will have to reapply every time you remove the CPU. If you are going to use a TIM however, use liquid metal, pro or ultra, either one will be good. Now if you want to go another route you can use EK bare ivy bridge CPU mounting kit for their waterblocks.

http://www.tomshardware.com/news/Water-Cooling-IHS-Intel-Ivy,21744.html

 

 

 

I've heard that the Liquid metal stuff can mess up your cpu after its been on for a while and you try to remove it.  I'm speaking strictly for when its used between the IHS and the actual cpu...  I don't have any personal experience with this, but it kinda puts me off using it...

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I've heard that the Liquid metal stuff can mess up your cpu after its been on for a while and you try to remove it.  I'm speaking strictly for when its used between the IHS and the actual cpu...  I don't have any personal experience with this, but it kinda puts me off using it...

The Liquid metal is quite tricky to apply and remove but it performs the best in low ambient temperatures as it is a metal, liquid but a metal none the less. The die is long and rectangular in shape and the normal TIM application method, meaning the pea sized drop of TIM and then letting the mounting pressure of the cooler spread it should not be applied to get the best heat transfer from the die to the heat spreader. I personally, when i delidd my 3570k, will be using the EK mounting kit and i will change my XSPC raystorm waterblock for the EK supremacy. I don't think it makes any sense to put back TIM when i can just use the naked CPU with a waterblock and the cooling is even better. from what i have seen. This guy has done it already and put it on the forums a while back. Check it out here http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/25420-ihs-removal-naked-ivy-ek-supremacy/?hl=%2Bnaked+%2Bivy

It is in German but the video has subtitles, you just need to enable it if you have not done so already.

A water-cooled mid-tier gaming PC.

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The Liquid metal is quite tricky to apply and remove but it performs the best in low ambient temperatures as it is a metal, liquid but a metal none the less. The die is long and rectangular in shape and the normal TIM application method, meaning the pea sized drop of TIM and then letting the mounting pressure of the cooler spread it should not be applied to get the best heat transfer from the die to the heat spreader. I personally, when i delidd my 3570k, will be using the EK mounting kit and i will change my XSPC raystorm waterblock for the EK supremacy. I don't think it makes any sense to put back TIM when i can just use the naked CPU with a waterblock and the cooling is even better. from what i have seen. This guy has done it already and put it on the forums a while back. Check it out here http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/25420-ihs-removal-naked-ivy-ek-supremacy/?hl=%2Bnaked+%2Bivy

It is in German but the video has subtitles, you just need to enable it if you have not done so already.

 

yeah, I've seen that before, kinda considering doing it myself.  My question is more about the Liquid metal damaging the cpu when I remove it.  If read that it gets kinda sticky after it's been used for a while and can tear up the cpu if removed.  This obviously isn't an issue if you're using it on top of the IHS, but I'm concerned about using it directly on the cpu.  Although I've seen results for a delidded cpu (don't remember if it was Ivy or Haswell) between something from arctic silver and the liquid metal, and the difference was significant.  I think it was over on xtremesystems that I saw that...

HP something | 5600X | Corsair  16GB | Zotac ArcticStorm GTX 1080 Ti | Samsung 840 Pro 256GB | OCZ Agility 3 480GB | ADATA SP550 960 GB

Corsair AX860i | CaseLabs SM8 | EK Supremacy | UT60 420 | ST30 360 | ST30 240

Gentle Typhoon's and Noctua's and Noiseblocker eLoop's

 

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yeah, I've seen that before, kinda considering doing it myself.  My question is more about the Liquid metal damaging the cpu when I remove it.  If read that it gets kinda sticky after it's been used for a while and can tear up the cpu if removed.  This obviously isn't an issue if you're using it on top of the IHS, but I'm concerned about using it directly on the cpu.  Although I've seen results for a delidded cpu (don't remember if it was Ivy or Haswell) between something from arctic silver and the liquid metal, and the difference was significant.  I think it was over on xtremesystems that I saw that...

The thing about it is that liquid metal is a metal so once you use it between the die and the heat spreader you can glue the heat spreader back so there won't be a problem and it doesn't degrade over time like normal TIMs. I was going to do it myself but the naked die with the EK kit just seems better and cleaner to me, so i have abandoned replacing Intel's TIM with a better TIM when i delidd my CPU. I am glad skullbringer did that video of the naked die and the EK kit as i was unsure myself on what TIM to use when i delidd my CPU. 

 

I don't really care for artic silver as i have found other TIMs much better. I currently use IC Diamond but i have also used a phase change TIM named Indigo Extreme. IC Diamond is a better all weather TIM in my use. I live in the Caribbean and the weather is cool one minute and hot the next. My home is by the ocean so i get tons of cool breeze and i use 60" ceiling fans to cool my home, so when it is hot my ambient temperature is like 30 - 32C but on a cool day my ambient can reach as low as 25C. The IC Diamond performs very good in both situations but the Indigo Extreme is for low ambient temperatures as it is a metal itself so when it is hot the metal is hot but when it is cool it gets very cool. My 3570k with the Indigo Extreme od one of the cool days has made my 4.6Ghz OC reach 26C on idle and 54C on AIDA64 stress test after 8 hours but when it gets hot those figures raise by 4 - 6C. With the IC Diamond i only get like a 2C fluctuation, so IMO the IC Diamond works for my situation.

 

If you live in a country that has a low ambient temperature and you delidd you CPU but you keep your IHS after you change the TIM between the die and the IHS i would suggest you look into Indigo Extreme or Main Gear EPIC T1000, they are both the same phase change TIM. Not even liquid metal can beat Indigo Extreme.

 

Check this.....http://www.overclock.net/t/1118758/indigo-xtreme-with-the-silver-arrow-review

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The thing about it is that liquid metal is a metal so once you use it between the die and the heat spreader you can glue the heat spreader back so there won't be a problem and it doesn't degrade over time like normal TIMs. I was going to do it myself but the naked die with the EK kit just seems better and cleaner to me, so i have abandoned replacing Intel's TIM with a better TIM when i delidd my CPU. I am glad skullbringer did that video of the naked die and the EK kit as i was unsure myself on what TIM to use when i delidd my CPU. 

 

I don't really care for artic silver as i have found other TIMs much better. I currently use IC Diamond but i have also used a phase change TIM named Indigo Extreme. IC Diamond is a better all weather TIM in my use. I live in the Caribbean and the weather is cool one minute and hot the next. My home is by the ocean so i get tons of cool breeze and i use 60" ceiling fans to cool my home, so when it is hot my ambient temperature is like 30 - 32C but on a cool day my ambient can reach as low as 25C. The IC Diamond performs very good in both situations but the Indigo Extreme is for low ambient temperatures as it is a metal itself so when it is hot the metal is hot but when it is cool it gets very cool. My 3570k with the Indigo Extreme od one of the cool days has made my 4.6Ghz OC reach 26C on idle and 54C on AIDA64 stress test after 8 hours but when it gets hot those figures raise by 4 - 6C. With the IC Diamond i only get like a 2C fluctuation, so IMO the IC Diamond works for my situation.

 

If you live in a country that has a low ambient temperature and you delidd you CPU but you keep your IHS after you change the TIM between the die and the IHS i would suggest you look into Indigo Extreme or Main Gear EPIC T1000, they are both the same phase change TIM. Not even liquid metal can beat Indigo Extreme.

 

Check this.....http://www.overclock.net/t/1118758/indigo-xtreme-with-the-silver-arrow-review

 

so are you gonna use liquid metal or IC diamond on your naked mount?

 

I don't see how ambient temps would affect TIM (or any TIM replacement).  It just transfers heat between the cpu and the heatsink, that gets much hotter than ambient anyway...  and its has surface area exposed to even absorb any ambient heat...

 

but either way, non of that is really what my concern is.  Its damaging the cpu, and I don't want to go back gluing down the IHS after I delid.

HP something | 5600X | Corsair  16GB | Zotac ArcticStorm GTX 1080 Ti | Samsung 840 Pro 256GB | OCZ Agility 3 480GB | ADATA SP550 960 GB

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Gentle Typhoon's and Noctua's and Noiseblocker eLoop's

 

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not on this specific cpu......

It dosent matter what kind of TIM you replace it with because almost anything will be a improvment if you replace it. Even a low end TIM will be batter then the really low end TIM intel uses.

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so are you gonna use liquid metal or IC diamond on your naked mount?

 

I don't see how ambient temps would affect TIM (or any TIM replacement).  It just transfers heat between the cpu and the heatsink, that gets much hotter than ambient anyway...  and its has surface area exposed to even absorb any ambient heat...

 

but either way, non of that is really what my concern is.  Its damaging the cpu, and I don't want to go back gluing down the IHS after I delid.

The reason why the ambient temperatures affects the cooling performance of the TIM or as is in the case of Indigo Extreme and liquid pro/ultra, is due to the fact that they are metal alloys and as such get colder or hotter with ambient temperatures. I would use the TIM EK has in the kit as is in the video that skullbringer did. I may also try different TIMs to see what temperatures it get but on the naked die it will be very minimal as the bare die will be in direct contact with your cooler. From what i have read liquid ultra is easier to clean and not as sticky as liquid pro but offers the same performance with a margin of error. check this thread.......http://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?p=655622

A water-cooled mid-tier gaming PC.

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The reason why the ambient temperatures affects the cooling performance of the TIM or as is in the case of Indigo Extreme and liquid pro/ultra, is due to the fact that they are metal alloys and as such get colder or hotter with ambient temperatures. I would use the TIM EK has in the kit as is in the video that skullbringer did. I may also try different TIMs to see what temperatures it get but on the naked die it will be very minimal as the bare die will be in direct contact with your cooler. From what i have read liquid ultra is easier to clean and not as sticky as liquid pro but offers the same performance with a margin of error. check this thread.......http://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?p=655622

 

I understand that, but since the cpu gets hotter than ambient, not to mention the heatsink is also metal, I don't see how ambient would affect the TIM for more than the first few mins after you turn on your comp...

HP something | 5600X | Corsair  16GB | Zotac ArcticStorm GTX 1080 Ti | Samsung 840 Pro 256GB | OCZ Agility 3 480GB | ADATA SP550 960 GB

Corsair AX860i | CaseLabs SM8 | EK Supremacy | UT60 420 | ST30 360 | ST30 240

Gentle Typhoon's and Noctua's and Noiseblocker eLoop's

 

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I understand that, but since the cpu gets hotter than ambient, not to mention the heatsink is also metal, I don't see how ambient would affect the TIM for more than the first few mins after you turn on your comp...

That is just how normal water/air cooling works. The ambient temperatures affect the cooling performance. If you use a TIM this is non metal like IC Diamond the heat is transferred as diamonds, synthetic or real, does not retain heat unlike a metal TIM would. This was explained o me by a chemist who is a manager from a local laboratory. The metal in almost all coolers are either copper or copper plated with nickle. The heat pipes in air coolers are made of some type of alloy that can hold and transfer heat from the CPU contact plate up to the fins for the fan to cool. So if the ambient temperature is 28C lets say and you stress test you will get a temperature like 65C. Using the same cooling setup on a day that has a lower ambient temperature like 25C you can get a load temperature of maybe 61C.

While you cooling solution does drop or raise temperatures according to its robustness the ambient will also play a part.

 

I use a XSPC 360kit and IC Diamond TIM and if i carry it buy my cousin who's house has AC the idle temperatures drop from 28C by me to 24C. The only change is the change in ambient temperature. When i used my XSPC 360 kit with Indigo Extreme my idle temperatures would drop from 28C by me to 22C by my cousin. The only change there is the TIM and the ambient temperature. That is just how it works.  

A water-cooled mid-tier gaming PC.

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That is just how normal water/air cooling works. The ambient temperatures affect the cooling performance. If you use a TIM this is non metal like IC Diamond the heat is transferred as diamonds, synthetic or real, does not retain heat unlike a metal TIM would. This was explained o me by a chemist who is a manager from a local laboratory. The metal in almost all coolers are either copper or copper plated with nickle. The heat pipes in air coolers are made of some type of alloy that can hold and transfer heat from the CPU contact plate up to the fins for the fan to cool. So if the ambient temperature is 28C lets say and you stress test you will get a temperature like 65C. Using the same cooling setup on a day that has a lower ambient temperature like 25C you can get a load temperature of maybe 61C.

While you cooling solution does drop or raise temperatures according to its robustness the ambient will also play a part.

 

I use a XSPC 360kit and IC Diamond TIM and if i carry it buy my cousin who's house has AC the idle temperatures drop from 28C by me to 24C. The only change is the change in ambient temperature. When i used my XSPC 360 kit with Indigo Extreme my idle temperatures would drop from 28C by me to 22C by my cousin. The only change there is the TIM and the ambient temperature. That is just how it works.  

 

I understand ambient temp affecting the whole setup temp, thats makes complete sense to me.  Was the temp difference between your place and your cousins place the same for both ICD and IE?

HP something | 5600X | Corsair  16GB | Zotac ArcticStorm GTX 1080 Ti | Samsung 840 Pro 256GB | OCZ Agility 3 480GB | ADATA SP550 960 GB

Corsair AX860i | CaseLabs SM8 | EK Supremacy | UT60 420 | ST30 360 | ST30 240

Gentle Typhoon's and Noctua's and Noiseblocker eLoop's

 

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I understand ambient temp affecting the whole setup temp, thats makes complete sense to me.  Was the temp difference between your place and your cousins place the same for both ICD and IE?

Yes it was. His game room is up in the attic and it gets very hot as our climate is only sun or rain. He had the air condition set to 18C and my media room was 27 - 30C. For our test we first did the IC diamond as it takes longer to properly apply and cure according to the manufacture's instructions at my place, then went to his place and then we just carried my RIG by him as he loves two blocks away. Then we went back by me and took off the waterblock and cleaned the CPU and waterblock of the IC Diamond with 99% isopropyl alcohol then applied the Indigo Extreme. We did the burn in round to apply the Indigo Extreme and as it has no cure time we did a stress test by me and then carried my rig by him and did the test again and in a cooler room with the IE the temperatures were lower than the IC Diamond by about 4 - 7C but by me the IE was about the same as the IC Diamond and the IE took longer to cool the CPU after the stress test not by much but still it took longer.

 

I was told by the chemist that the diamond in IC Diamond can transfer heat very fast but it will also cool off fast as well as it does not retain heat unlike a metal which is known to retain heat after it is heated. After this test i reapplied IC Diamond and that is what i have right now in my rig. I put IC Diamond on my 660ti as well and it cools it faster than what ever was there from the manufacture.

 

Now the reason why i would not use IC Diamond on the naked die is necause the manufacture has stated on their website that the proper way to apply IC Diamond is to use a flat cold plate with out any heatpipes exposed and put a pea sized blob of IC DIamond and let the mounting presure of your waterblock / air cooler spread the TIM and let it set/cure for two hours, then you are good to go.

If you put a pea sized blob od IC Diamond on the naked die and let the EKWB spread the TIM it will spread in a circle and not across the long rectangle of the did's surface. So to me a TIM that is spreadable is wht would be best ther like liquid ultra which does not harden like liquid pro.

A water-cooled mid-tier gaming PC.

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