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aquarium build design; a few questions and desired input

Note to mods: Please do not ban me for posting my personal copywritten work here. I know it sounds strange, but I was banned with no warning from another forum, and I suspect that was the reason.


 


Now for the copyright notice


 


Designs ©Copyright 2015 Christopher Scott Beebe. I authorize the private use of this work without financial gain with the exception of ad revenue so long as I am given credit for said work if made public. All other rights reserved.


 


So a few days ago I saw the video where linus builds a mineral oil pc. 



 


I immediately decided I absolutely had to have one seeing as I was preparing to replace my current rig anyways. Unfortunately pugetsystems no longer sells the kit he used in the video. So I decided, why not build my own?


 


So here's my preliminary designs.


post-224565-0-41948600-1429948026_thumb.


 


Youtube video of me discussing the design


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HR922j3tiXU


 


Not counting displacement, I calculated it out to just under 15 gallons.


The tank must be able to handle the oil reaching 40 celsius, although it should hold steady around 32 celsius if designed properly.


In theoery will this work? Suggestions for improving the design?


Would 2 480mm radiators be enough?  Should I have them separate like they are in my designs, or should I run them in series like puget did?


 


Here's my proposed build


 


 

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($326.99 @ SuperBiiz) 

CPU Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC12DX_RD 68.5 CFM CPU Cooler  ($49.99 @ Newegg) 

Thermal Compound: TUNIQ TX-2 3.5g Thermal Paste  ($5.89 @ OutletPC) 

Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Extreme6/ac ATX LGA1150 Motherboard  ($173.99 @ SuperBiiz) 


Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($238.98 @ OutletPC) 


Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB FTW ACX 2.0 Video Card (2-Way SLI)  ($332.99 @ Amazon) 

Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB FTW ACX 2.0 Video Card (2-Way SLI)  ($332.99 @ Amazon) 

Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($105.99 @ SuperBiiz) 

Optical Drive: Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer  ($39.99 @ Amazon) 

Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit)  ($86.89 @ OutletPC) 

Monitor: BenQ GL2460HM 60Hz 24.0" Monitor  ($139.93 @ B&H) 

Monitor: BenQ GL2460HM 60Hz 24.0" Monitor  ($139.93 @ B&H) 

Monitor: BenQ GL2460HM 60Hz 24.0" Monitor  ($139.93 @ B&H) 

Total: $2372.47

Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available

Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-25 03:45 EDT-0400

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-SNIP-

 

 

That's a big endeavor but if your up to the challenge it looks doable, but once that hardware is use for mineral oil it's only going to be used for that, unless you want to clean it off. One suggestion I would be sure to do is make sure to get good quality 100% silicone that won't yellow or haze over, and replace all the rubber O-rings with silicon O-rings in the fittings to prevent any rubber deterioration over the long run.

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I plan to do that.  Is there a specific type of spraypaint that will yield that metallic blue color i desire for the trim?

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I plan to do that.  Is there a specific type of spraypaint that will yield that metallic blue color i desire for the trim?

 

For the metal trim if you want a flaked metal finished try duplicolor should have a really good selection of paints that they have on the shelf or can mix up for you, any local autobody store should carry it.

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Thanks.  I've been asking around in engineering forums about whether it would hold up to pressures and temperature variances.

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Thanks.  I've been asking around in engineering forums about whether it would hold up to pressures and temperature variances.

 

For 1/2 acrylic being only 18" across it should be no problem since you have metal corners and edges holding the majority of the pressure, as for the amount of pressure it will be very little since it's height isn't extreme. 

 

Mineral oil is actually less dense than water, being 800Kg/m3.

 

P=800*9.81*0.381

  = 2990.1Pa

  = 0.43PSI

 

So it would be less than half a PSI at the bottom of the tank, temp wise that shouldn't be a problem with two 280mm rads recirculating the oil, just be sure to have a powerful enough pump like a D5 to pump the more viscous oil around,

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Thanks.  I'm thinking of going with 360's or 480's.  Any model you could recommend?  I was thinking of calling up corsair and just asking a sales rep, or even puget considering they have experience in this specific field.  I've never even looked into liquid cooling.  Also, I was wondering about the pipes either expanding to the point of cracking the acrylic, or contracting to the point of leaking.  I figure that 40c should be what I should build it to withstand for short periods, and it should maintain 32 c or lower under standard gaming loads.

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Thanks.  I'm thinking of going with 360's or 480's.  Any model you could recommend?  I was thinking of calling up corsair and just asking a sales rep, or even puget considering they have experience in this specific field.  I've never even looked into liquid cooling.  Also, I was wondering about the pipes either expanding to the point of cracking the acrylic, or contracting to the point of leaking.  I figure that 40c should be what I should build it to withstand for short periods, and it should maintain 32 c or lower under standard gaming loads.

 

Corsair makes AIO liquid coolers so it would be difficult for them to provide much for that, Puget may be able to give some good insight if you can get in contact with them. For radiators I personally like Alphacool, they have a wide selection of sizes and options for thickness. As for the expansion and contraction of acrylic lines it should be within tolerances of the fitting's O-rings and will not leak any fluid, at 40C that's pretty safe the melting point of acrylic is approx 150C depending on that material and will softer before that but the system should be pretty cool.The main thing with mineral oil is removing heat from it once it's absorbed it from the heat generating components.

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Oh wow the large square rads, I'm not too familiar with the layout and water flow through those tbh so I wouldn't really know what would be the best of that other than that the Phyoba one is made of cooper and brass while the Koolance says it's aluminum, not sure if galvanic corrosion is an issue in mineral oil loop though. One thing though FCPU is still out of service until further notice, I suggest going to somewhere like PeformancePC's or Dazmode.

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Found an article on 1080 radiators-that's what they're called.

Article here

http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=258018

 

Trying to decide between this one

http://www.performance-pcs.com/phobya-g-changer-xtreme-nova-1080-radiator-60mm.html

 

And this one

http://www.performance-pcs.com/phobya-xtreme-nova-1080-9-x-120mm-radiator.html

 

Is there a large difference in cooling capabilities between the two or ishould I just go with the cheaper one?

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Found an article on 1080 radiators-that's what they're called.

Article here

http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=258018

Trying to decide between this one

http://www.performance-pcs.com/phobya-g-changer-xtreme-nova-1080-radiator-60mm.html

And this one

http://www.performance-pcs.com/phobya-xtreme-nova-1080-9-x-120mm-radiator.html

Is there a large difference in cooling capabilities between the two or ishould I just go with the cheaper one?

 

Between the two the main difference is the thickness of the radiator, one is 60mm thick and the other 46mm, in cooling terms they are both fairly open meaning the fins per inch (FPI) being 10FPI and 12FPI respectively so there isn't much difference there. However since the G-changer is thicker being 60mm it will provide more surface area for cooling but at this point theses are very extreme radiators.

 

One very important thing is the weight and volume of both theses rads once they are full of oil they will not be light and need substantial mounting to ensure it stays in place, not to mention the extra oil needed to fill the loop due to the volume of the rads.

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Gotta remember-I'm using a 15 gallon "reservoir".  The small amount-tops 1/4 gallon-that will be inside the rads won't affect how much I buy.  I'm buying 15 gallons, and the displacement from the components will be greater than the radiator pipes.  I'm thinking that I'll just mount the radiator on its own bracket away from the case, because the hoses will have quick connects anyway.

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So what about fans?  Assuming I used the same model fans, would you recommend 4x180mm or 9x120mm?  which is going to be more expensive, taking into account that in order to run 4x180mm fans I will need to buy a different shroud (30 usd) and the fact that for 9x120mm fans I may need 2 external fan controllers if I can't find an external 9 fan controller? which is going to use more voltage, which is going to give more airflow, and which will be more quiet?

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So what about fans?  Assuming I used the same model fans, would you recommend 4x180mm or 9x120mm?  which is going to be more expensive, taking into account that in order to run 4x180mm fans I will need to buy a different shroud (30 usd) and the fact that for 9x120mm fans I may need 2 external fan controllers if I can't find an external 9 fan controller? which is going to use more voltage, which is going to give more airflow, and which will be more quiet?

 

I would say go for the 120mm since there is a much better selection of fans, there are some good 180mm but other than silverstone and EKWB fans I'm not sure there are that many good quality ones. For the splitter I know of some 8 way splitters from swiftech that are for PWM only fans but looking around I don't seem to see much over 8 way, it would probably best best to go with two 5 way splitters.

 

http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-4-pin-power-distribution-pcb-5-way-block.html

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Obviously I want to go with hydro bearings, and I'll want blue leds.  Any suggestions as far as fan controllers and specific fans?  What about the pump and fittings?  Also are the gpu fans run off the controller or the gpu itself?

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Obviously I want to go with hydro bearings, and I'll want blue leds.  Any suggestions as far as fan controllers and specific fans?  What about the pump and fittings?  Also are the gpu fans run off the controller or the gpu itself?

 

For fans with Blue LED's the Corsair ones are affordable but aren't the best fans out there, I don't usualy recommened LED fans so someone else may have a better lead on good blue LED fans, the Corsair ones tend to be a bit noisy at higher speeds.

For Pump something like the DDC pump or D5 would be ideal, fittings are mostly the same theses days from EKWB, Koolance, etc, but  Bitspowers is the premium leaders in fittings but also has the best selections of adapters. 

 

For the GPU the fans are powered by the GPU itself so they do not need to be connected to another connector.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Replaced my tier 5 psu in my current build with the psu ill be using in my next build, an evga g2 series 750w

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Obviously I want to go with hydro bearings, and I'll want blue leds.  Any suggestions as far as fan controllers and specific fans?  What about the pump and fittings?  Also are the gpu fans run off the controller or the gpu itself?

 

 

For fans with Blue LED's the Corsair ones are affordable but aren't the best fans out there, I don't usualy recommened LED fans so someone else may have a better lead on good blue LED fans, the Corsair ones tend to be a bit noisy at higher speeds.

For Pump something like the DDC pump or D5 would be ideal, fittings are mostly the same theses days from EKWB, Koolance, etc, but  Bitspowers is the premium leaders in fittings but also has the best selections of adapters. 

 

For the GPU the fans are powered by the GPU itself so they do not need to be connected to another connector.

The Aerocool DS fans should be pretty good on rads. Plus, they look pretty sick and they are offered in blue obviously

Cpu:i5-4690k Gpu:r9 280x with some other things

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A question from someone who has never actually tried this, so bear with me.

 

Why circulate the mineral oil through the radiators?  It is heavy and viscous, so that is going to require a strong pump and a tremendous amount of energy.

 

Wouldn't it be better to use the radiators filled with water to exhaust heat out of the mineral oil?  

 

What I'm suggesting is to create some coils out of 1/4" copper tubing, submerge them in the mineral oil tank, and then connecting those to to fan cooled external radiators.  All you would need in the tank is some sort of low speed impeller to create a constant movement (convection alone might do the trick if the column was tall enough.)

 

Easiest way to create copper coils is to fill straight tubing with fine sand, then bend it around an appropriately sized mandrel. 

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A question from someone who has never actually tried this, so bear with me.

Why circulate the mineral oil through the radiators?  It is heavy and viscous, so that is going to require a strong pump and a tremendous amount of energy.

Wouldn't it be better to use the radiators filled with water to exhaust heat out of the mineral oil?  

What I'm suggesting is to create some coils out of 1/4" copper tubing, submerge them in the mineral oil tank, and then connecting those to to fan cooled external radiators.  All you would need in the tank is some sort of low speed impeller to create a constant movement (convection alone might do the trick if the column was tall enough.)

Easiest way to create copper coils is to fill straight tubing with fine sand, then bend it around an appropriately sized mandrel. 

 

That can be done basically a heat exchanger to move the heat from the oil into the watercooled section to the rads but there is efficiency loss in that since there is another variable in the system not the mention the maintanence require on the waterloop. The mineral oil is indefinite or doesn't require maintenance like a watercooling loop does.

 

For most pumps they can handle mineral oil no problem such as the D5 since it's running in lubricant in itself and has more than enough head pressure to push the oil around.

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