Gaming Head Phone vs Audiophile HP (Question)
Ah, what MATTERS in headphones, another good list for the FAQ:
Headphones are a bit of an art and a lot of sound science and trial and error goes into their development, but a few things are real patterns in GOOD headphones:
what MATTERS:
1. Sensitivity and Impedance. The impedance (variable resistance w/ frequency) rating is important in determining how loud they'll get on your onboard and how much extra power they'll need, but don't forget the headphone's sensitivity since this can affect that answer as well. headphones with either sensitivities over 100 SPL or Impedances below 40 Ohms probably won't need special amplification (unless they have VERY low sensitivities or VERY high impedance. See the Hifiman HE-500 and Beyerdynamic Tesla T1)
2. Let's be honest, 90% of the most expensive headphones have an OPEN or vented design, where the back of the cup on the driver is vented, meshed, or grilled so some or ALL air can move on the back of the driver. Just like holes on the back of speakers, these allow for a much flatter response without having to monkey around with the design of the cups.
3. Durability. Simply speaking, if it's broken in a month, it's just not a good headphone. You should be able to throw them around a bit and not break them. NO headphone is totally unbreakable, but like anything that goes on your head, it should be able to take a little abuse.
4. Comfort. It should at least feel good on your head. duh, right?
what DOESN'T MATTER:
1. Fancy designs. You can't even see them when they're on your head. It's only a fashion statement when it's around your neck anyways.
2. Driver size. The latest fake spec added in by a bunch of headset AND headphone makers it is described as the way your headphones get a "deeper" or "bigger" sound. This is nonsense, and counterproductive to good driver design. The largest orthodynamic drivers and the smallest in-ear drivers can BOTH produce very good responses at both ends of the spectrum. How do you know? That's what measurements are for, such as the ones at headphone.com.
3. Noise canceling. If you want isolation, in-ears are better at plugging your ears and keeping out the lowest frequencies than active noise cancelling, unless you really hate them in your ears
I guess all of this is on the FAQ in one sense or another, but I should probably re-work it to make it a bit more clear.
As for headphone recommendations under $100, well, here's THAT chart again:
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