Trickle from CPU water block

[Maniac0908]

Just set it up. Rocked it back and for for a while. Let it sit for a while. Still nothing... Water is full in all the lines except this one spot. Look closely at the like coming off the CPU you see it goes from full to a trickle around the bend. I've trie straightening the bend and everything. No luck. Please help.

[Sonefiler]

Organize your tubes! They don't need to be going everywhere.

[Sonefiler]

Is your pump strong enough? It might also be a really big bubble of air in the CPU block.

[Maniac0908]

Its a d5 pump so I think it's strong enough. I've shaken everything. Tubes are a mess yes. But I tried doing it other ways and this was the best. I have it going pump, rad, CPU, gpu, mobo. It's an xspc CPU block.

[Lays]

You can't get all the air bubbles out whilst bleeding it right away, sometimes you have to let it come out on its own, and no amount of upside down case shaking will fix it.

 

 

After doing ~3 separate maintenances on my loop, after re-filling I always have an air bubble in the CPU and GPU block, that I CANNOT get out.  After leaving the loop running for a few days it comes out on its own.

 

 

Try opening the top of the res, and turning the pump off & on and off again, with different speeds as well.

You can place your finger on and off the res hole to see if it helps as well.

[ericlee30]

Thats a spider web of tubes.

[Maniac0908]

We'll. maybe someone could help me organize my tubes. How would you guys do it? Sorry I'm a newb.

[Leonard]

Just set it up. Rocked it back and for for a while. Let it sit for a while. Still nothing... Water is full in all the lines except this one spot. Look closely at the like coming off the CPU you see it goes from full to a trickle around the bend. I've trie straightening the bend and everything. No luck. Please help.

That air pocket is one of the worst to get out. You filled the loop to fast for the bends you have. 

 

You can try draining the loop completely, take of that tube making sure no water falls on your parts, and manually completely filling it with water while having one end clogged with your finger or something and then reconnect and fill again. 

 

Organize your tubes! They don't need to be going everywhere.

:lol: same thing i thought. Then i thought his tube looks like the arms from the squiddies in the matrix.

[Crion]

First thing I would change would be I wouldn't have included the integrated block on the mobo.  It's anodized aluminium which is just asking for problems.  As far as potential leaks, check your o-rings on the fittings.  You'll have to drain the loop and check.  Chances are you don't have a good seal on one of them. 

 

You really need to work on the tubing as your best performance is going to be with the shortest possible runs.  If your loop looks like spaghetti, there's no way that it's the shortest runs.  Get us a diagram of where stuff is and we'll try and tell you what the shortest possible runs would be.

[flibberdipper]

Get rid of some tubes and make the path for the water easier...

[Maniac0908]

First thing I would change would be I wouldn't have included the integrated block on the mobo.  It's anodized aluminium which is just asking for problems.  As far as potential leaks, check your o-rings on the fittings.  You'll have to drain the loop and check.  Chances are you don't have a good seal on one of them. 

 

You really need to work on the tubing as your best performance is going to be with the shortest possible runs.  If your loop looks like spaghetti, there's no way that it's the shortest runs.  Get us a diagram of where stuff is and we'll try and tell you what the shortest possible runs would be.

The water cool ports on the mobo are bad? Why would asus put it there if they were bad? I paid all that money for it..... Is there something I can add to water to keep it from having problems?

If you look at second pic you can see where everything is. But I'll try to get a diagram up in the morning

[Bagmup]

I also notice you've got barbs, xspc and monsoon fittings...is that a filter at the front? And Asus fixed the problem with the mobo water block by changing it to copper on the Z97 boards...do over  :lol:

[Maniac0908]

I also notice you've got barbs, xspc and monsoon fittings...is that a filter at the front? And Asus fixed the problem with the mobo water block by changing it to copper on the Z97 boards...do over  :lol:

Is the z97 formula even out yet? I couldn't find one.

[Crion]

The water cool ports on the mobo are bad? Why would asus put it there if they were bad? I paid all that money for it..... Is there something I can add to water to keep it from having problems?

If you look at second pic you can see where everything is. But I'll try to get a diagram up in the morning

 

They're not "bad" per se.  The problem is that for some reason, Asus made the choice to use anodized aluminum for the block.  Mixing Aluminium and Copper in a loop is asking for galvanic corrosion.  Now, Asus will tell you that it's perfectly ok to use the block with copper because it's anodized.  Technically, they are correct.  The problem is that the slightest defect in the anodizing process renders the entire process useless. 

So, no, they're not bad if all your wc stuff is aluminium.  If you've got copper in the loop, then yes, they're bad.

 

EDIT:  You could try adding a corrosion inhibitor but unless you have experience mixing up coolants so as to get the right amounts, then I wouldn't try it.

 

I also notice you've got barbs, xspc and monsoon fittings...is that a filter at the front? And Asus fixed the problem with the mobo water block by changing it to copper on the Z97 boards...do over  :lol:

Unfortunately, the Maximus VII Formula is not out yet, so your statement doesn't apply

[rjbarker]

You can't get all the air bubbles out whilst bleeding it right away, sometimes you have to let it come out on its own, and no amount of upside down case shaking will fix it.

 

 

After doing ~3 separate maintenances on my loop, after re-filling I always have an air bubble in the CPU and GPU block, that I CANNOT get out.  After leaving the loop running for a few days it comes out on its own.

 

 

Try opening the top of the res, and turning the pump off & on and off again, with different speeds as well.

You can place your finger on and off the res hole to see if it helps as well.

 

 

Lays has the best advice!!!

It should clear over tme on its own...what I do after filling:

1. Tilt PC on every extreme angle imagineable with pump running at mid to high speed.

2. Pinch tubes in various locations to briely "restrict" flow (when you release listen to the bubbles that ome thru)

3. Tap Rez witha rubber handles pair of pliers lightly (also clears micro bubbles)

4. a few times a days reduce speed of pump and increase speed of pump

 

It can take up to a week or so to completely clear all trapped air, be patient, it should clear itself

 

How are your temps? If there pretty good, dont sweat it, keep going thru the steps outline above.

 

As for your Tube runs......guys he's got his CPU Block "unmounted" and hes WC'ing his Mobo !! (also crappy angled pic).....so naturally it looks a bit untidy....OP, dont worry about re-routing all the tubing, if thats what you found to be the most optimal, then stick with it let us know if the bubble clears ....it should

 

If its possible to leave your fill port "open" then do that as it will assist in clearing air ...(Looks like a Photon 170 Pump / rez combo same as I have. so just leave the top plug out until finished bleeding), I leave mine out for a week or so!!

 

Also for tube runs, my only rules:

1. Keep runs as short as possible

2. Try not to "cross" tubes

3. Where 90's are required (particularly input / output) off pump / rez, use 2 x 45's or better still 3 x 30's

[Maniac0908]

They're not "bad" per se.  The problem is that for some reason, Asus made the choice to use anodized aluminum for the block.  Mixing Aluminium and Copper in a loop is asking for galvanic corrosion.  Now, Asus will tell you that it's perfectly ok to use the block with copper because it's anodized.  Technically, they are correct.  The problem is that the slightest defect in the anodizing process renders the entire process useless. 

So, no, they're not bad if all your wc stuff is aluminium.  If you've got copper in the loop, then yes, they're bad.

 

EDIT:  You could try adding a corrosion inhibitor but unless you have experience mixing up coolants so as to get the right amounts, then I wouldn't try it.

 

Unfortunately, the Maximus VII Formula is not out yet, so your statement doesn't apply

I just read that the formula vii will be copper and should be out soon. I'm still in the 30 day return for tiger direct. I think I'm just going to return it and wait for it. I've already waited 6 months building this. What's another couple of months. Thanks for your help.

Lays has the best advice!!!

It should clear over tme on its own...what I do after filling:

1. Tilt PC on every extreme angle imagineable with pump running at mid to high speed.

2. Pinch tubes in various locations to briely "restrict" flow (when you release listen to the bubbles that ome thru)

3. Tap Rez witha rubber handles pair of pliers lightly (also clears micro bubbles)

4. a few times a days reduce speed of pump and increase speed of pump

 

It can take up to a week or so to completely clear all trapped air, be patient, it should clear itself

 

How are your temps? If there pretty good, dont sweat it, keep going thru the steps outline above.

 

As for your Tube runs......guys he's got his CPU Block "unmounted" and hes WC'ing his Mobo !! (also crappy angled pic).....so naturally it looks a bit untidy....OP, dont worry about re-routing all the tubing, if thats what you found to be the most optimal, then stick with it let us know if the bubble clears ....it should

 

If its possible to leave your fill port "open" then do that as it will assist in clearing air ...(Looks like a Photon 170 Pump / rez combo same as I have. so just leave the top plug out until finished bleeding), I leave mine out for a week or so!!

 

Also for tube runs, my only rules:

1. Keep runs as short as possible

2. Try not to "cross" tubes

3. Where 90's are required (particularly input / output) off pump / rez, use 2 x 45's or better still 3 x 30's

The bubble did come out! Thanks you lays and you. Ya my CPU block is unmounted so I could shake it. My tubes could use some work which I will do now since I have to take it apart to get mobo out. What do you think is the optimal sequence? Right now it's pump, rad, CPU, gpu, mobo. I think because it's this order, things got messy, but I figured its best to give the CPU and gpu the coldest water. I'm thinking of doing it, pump, CPU, gpu, mobo, rad. Or does anyone have a different solution? It's in a 750d case. And yes picture sucks. I phone turned it.

[Maniac0908]

Does anyone know an eta for the Maximus vii formula?

[Crion]

What do you think is the optimal sequence? Right now it's pump, rad, CPU, gpu, mobo. I think because it's this order, things got messy, but I figured its best to give the CPU and gpu the coldest water. I'm thinking of doing it, pump, CPU, gpu, mobo, rad. Or does anyone have a different solution? It's in a 750d case. And yes picture sucks. I phone turned it.

 

There's no such this as correct order in a loop.  The only rule to follow is that the pump should be directly fed by the reservoir.  Just focus on the shortest paths.

[rjbarker]

In my Loop I wound up going counter clockwise and shortest runs as possible. I would think it would be best to group your CPU and Mobo runs together. (very short connections likely)...I would hit them out of your pump...then to upper Rad...then to GPU and return.

 

For cooling benfits order of componenets not a big deal as mentioned above, focus on shortest runs without crossing tubing....can you get all your Fittings the same? As in not mix n matching Barbs with Compression? It would also be beneficial (just looking at your pic) to get a few more angled adpaters or fittings, as in 2x45's etc ......If not due to cost no big deal.

[Maniac0908]

In my Loop I wound up going counter clockwise and shortest runs as possible. I would think it would be best to group your CPU and Mobo runs together. (very short connections likely)...I would hit them out of your pump...then to upper Rad...then to GPU and return.

 

For cooling benfits order of componenets not a big deal as mentioned above, focus on shortest runs without crossing tubing....can you get all your Fittings the same? As in not mix n matching Barbs with Compression? It would also be beneficial (just looking at your pic) to get a few more angled adpaters or fittings, as in 2x45's etc ......If not due to cost no big deal.

Ok I'll do it that way and see how it works. They are all compression. But I put the clamps on the rad because the monsoon fittings are a pain to get on in that angle.

[rjbarker]

Another couple of tips:

1. When a component proves extremely difficult to get the Hose / Fitting on when its mounted (such as Rads), try to plan the building of the Loop so that you can pre-install fittings and lengths of "rough cut " tubing onto the component (Rad), then install the Rad leaving the ends of the tubes to be cut to length and fitted where they're easily accessible

2. Dont hesitate to use Adapters, angles or extensions (such as Male / Female Lengthen Adapters to Rads) to make the fittings more accessible.

 

The more easily you can access Fittings, the less frustration you'll run into resulting a pretty decent Loop

 

Above all "Have Fun" ....