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Sonefiler

Member
  • Content Count

    3,053
  • Joined

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About Sonefiler

  • Title
    Veteran
  • Birthday Dec 24, 2000

Profile Information

  • Location
    USA
  • Gender
    Male

System

  • CPU
    i5-9600K
  • RAM
    64GB
  • GPU
    GTX 1080
  • Storage
    a shitton of stuff

Recent Profile Visitors

3,454 profile views
  1. To be clear, this only really happens on maps like Nuke or Vertigo, laggier maps, when I'm doing stuff like watching twitch streams at the same time on my second monitor, and especially when I'm next to a smoke. But, if this is still unusual, do you have any advice on what I should be looking at to fix this? I don't have an OC motherboard, unfortunately, and I have an ITX build so I don't know if I'm comfortable with OCing, especially since I don't really know what I'm doing.
  2. I'm looking to upgrade my CPU to get better FPS in CSGO. I'm currently on a i5-9600K, 64GB RAM, and a GTX 1080, so I'm looking to upgrade my CPU most likely. I want minimum 150FPS consistently with low settings 1080p, even on the laggier maps; sometimes my FPS dips low enough that it's below the refresh rate of my monitor (especially when I also have a lot of other stuff open like a twitch stream or music or whatever), which I want to avoid at all costs. Would getting an i7-9700K be an effective way to reach this goal, or is it too little of an upgrade from my current setup? I'd like to spend
  3. For those on the internet looking for a solution to this problem: I bought this USB to SATA adapter from Amazon. The power plug for my drive was still in perfect condition, so it stabilized the plug in a way that I was able to transfer my files off safely. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S9CKV7X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  4. I didn't ignore "any suggestions" given to me, I just said I'm uncomfortable with this method.
  5. I don't own a soldering iron and have never used one before. Not sure how this destructive method would be the safer option
  6. I was initially thinking I would just try and hold the connector in place while the data all transfers off, since I thought this would be the easiest way. If, though, I lost full contact at some point during the transfer process, would there be any risk of damage to my original drive, or the data on it?
  7. I'm really not very confident in my ability to solder. Is this the only solution?
  8. Hi all, I have a SSD that I know works perfectly, except that I broke the SATA data plug on it. Specifically, I accidentally broke the plastic around the pins on the port, and they're stuck inside my cable now. I know that data recovery services are usually ridiculously expensive, so I'm looking for a solution for this that I can do at home, if possible. I've already bought a new drive off Amazon, I just need to find a way to transfer all this data over safely. I tried just using the cable that the plastic broke off inside of and slotting the pins into there, but the p
  9. I have another question. Since I'm switching my boot drive from my 2.5" 256GB SSD to a M.2 512GB SSD, can I just copy everything over somehow? If so, what's the best way to do that?
  10. Oh, I see. Is there a way that I can transfer my windows license to my new PC?
  11. Hey guys. This is kind of a broad spectrum question, so sorry if this isn't the perfect place to put this post. So recently I built a second computer (long story), and since I now have two computers, I want to combine them into one great build. In my old build, I have two 2.5" SSDs (one with Windows boot) and a 4TB HDD. In my new build, I have a M.2 PCIe SSD, which is also the boot device. I want to move all my drives to the new PC, but I don't want to wipe their data. I'd rather keep what I have and just move it over in the new computer. However, I don't
  12. I got it working! Just wanted to let people know how I got this working, in case anybody in the future wanted to do this: To hook up the relay switch, I wired two Molex connector pins, the +12V and a Ground pin (seems like it depends on the power supply you're using as to which wire corresponds to which), to the relay switch. I wired the +12V (Middle pin) from the fan header as the actual switching signal. Then I used motherboard fan curve adjustments to make the fan stay at 0RPM until 45 degrees, then have it go to full throttle!
  13. I want to be able to just switch between the "fan" being 100% on and 100% off, on the fly.
  14. I'm not sure if you misread. I could be getting something super wrong since I'm not very good with electronics and stuff, but my plan is to toggle a relay switch using the fan header
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