Jump to content

HDR turns itself off immediately after being toggled on | win10

Hello everyone!
For some background context, I've been troubleshooting and trying to get HDR working for 2 months now... I had bought a new TV, two new PCs, new GPU, new cables. I'm slowly ready to rip my hair out by frustration.... ...

Latest status: ordered brand new HDMI 2.1 cables to be 100% that the cables aren't at fault.
After noticing nothing happened on ubuntu I switched back to windows for the third time but for the first time on this new TV. Windows 10 automatically installed GPU drivers and after a short screen refresh i automatically finally had HDR10!
notif. From windows said it had automatically detected the display thus turned it on... radiating with happiness I went to get my HDD with HDR content to finally test it.
As I came back 15 minutes later, HDR was off, and I could not toggle it on in the settings no more. It is supported but as soon as I toggle it the screen flashes dark and HDR turns itself off after less than a second.

I had suspected the Windows updates had caused this, so I reinstalled win. Again, but this time the first thing I did was disable and block ALL Windows updates. HDR worked again... as I went into settings and changed the res. From FHD to 4k > HDR immediately turned itself off again. It couldn't be turned back on again, same as before.

What is causing this!?
Could someone please help find the source of this problem?
I've been working on my home cinema project for over a year now, and I find it ridiculous i have to troubleshoot a base feature of a high-end TV for 2 months… I would really like to finally finish this project.

TECHNICAL DETAILS /specifications:

 

  • PC:

current gpu: AMD RX6400 4GB HDMI 2.1 ITX (previous: gtx 1050TI ITX)
cpu: Intel I5 6500
mobo: Asus B150I PRO gaming aura
ram: 16GB DDR4 2133Mhz
psu: bequiet! poer 9 500W
SSD: 500GB crucial MX300 sata 2.5"
HDD: WD mybook 8TB (WD RED)
Windows 10 Pro

 

  • AV/R:

Onkyo TX-SR393 5.2
HDR / HDR10 / Dolby Vision / HLG
ARC

 

  • current TV:

Hisense E7KQ 75" QLED
2023
HDMI eARC
HDR / HDR10 / HDR10+ / Dolby Vision / HLG

 

  • previous TV:

Samsung UE58NU7179 LCD
2018
HDMI ARC
HDR / HDR10 / HDR10+ / HLG


in TV settings HDMI mode: "enhanced"
firmware: up to date
(otherwise apparently the TV cant achieve HDR)

I heard HDR auto-detection could be causing this
some more proprietary settings and formats from the TV manufacturer because "why not" :)...
And maybe also some Windows drivers that are being installed automatically?

All help appreciated and thank you in advance!

20240325_233050.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

HDR on Windows 10 is a disaster. If 11 improved anything it was in HDR performance. 

 

Unfortunately or fortunately it would take creating your bootable USB with RUFUS to get around the installation limitation of installing 11 on that older i5. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, GuiltySpark_ said:

HDR on Windows 10 is a disaster. If 11 improved anything it was in HDR performance. 

 

Unfortunately or fortunately it would take creating your bootable USB with RUFUS to get around the installation limitation of installing 11 on that older i5. 

thanks for the tip, will try!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, GuiltySpark_ said:

Unfortunately or fortunately it would take creating your bootable USB with RUFUS to get around the installation limitation of installing 11 on that older i5. 

I believe if the OP installs a TPM into the header and enables secure boot, then it can be installed from the normal installation media. I had to click a button confirming my CPU was unsupported, but it allowed an upgrade or a fresh install.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 3/26/2024 at 3:21 PM, GuiltySpark_ said:

HDR on Windows 10 is a disaster. If 11 improved anything it was in HDR performance. 

 

Unfortunately or fortunately it would take creating your bootable USB with RUFUS to get around the installation limitation of installing 11 on that older i5. 

UPDATE:
the exact same symptoms appear on windows 11:
HDR10 works perfectly until i switch from FHD to 4K:
then HDR turns itself off and cant be toggled back on even though supported. the screen flashes and it immediately goes back to disabled...

this leads me to believe theres maybe some kind of a bandwith limit??

BTW fun fact: played several videos with the windows media player while HDR was working and all FHD videos had audio but none of the 4K had audio.... no matter if it was HDR or SDR... which further leads me to believe this...
*>>> the audio not being available is just windows media player being a piece of # and not being able to work with .mkv files...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

How long is your HDMI cable? If it is too long, you should go for Fiber optic HDMI.

 

Also did it work if you direct connect your PC to TV without eARC to your AV/R.

PC: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X, Gigabyte GeForce RTX 4090 OC 24G, X570 AORUS Elite WIFI Motherboard, HyperX FURY 32GB DDR4-3200 RGB RAM, Creative Sound Blaster AE-9 Sound Card, Samsung 970 Evo Plus M.2 SATA 500GB, ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro M.2 SATA 2TB, Asus HyperX Fury RGB SSD 960GB, Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM 3.5 HDD 2TB, Cooler Master MASTERLIQUID ML240R ARGB, Cooler Master MASTERFAN MF120R ARGB, Cooler Master ELV8 Graphics Card Holder ARGB, Asus ROG Strix 1000G PSU, Lian Li LANCOOL II MESH RGB Case, Windows 11 Pro (22H2).


Laptop: Asus Vivobook "A Bathing Ape" - ASUS Vivobook S 15 OLED BAPE Edition: Intel i9-13900H, 16 GB RAM, 15.6" 2.8K 120hz OLED | Apple MacBook Pro 14" 2023: M2 Pro, 16 GB RAM, NVMe 512 GB | Asus VivoBook 15 OLED: Intel® Core™ i3-1125G4, Intel UHD, 8 GB RAM, Micron NVMe 512 GB | Illegear Z5 SKYLAKE: Intel Core i7-6700HQ, Nvidia Geforce GTX 970M, 16 GB RAM, ADATA SU800 M.2 SATA 512GB.

 

Monitor: Samsung Odyssey OLED G9 49" 5120x1440 240hz QD-OLED HDR, LG OLED Flex 42LX3QPSA 41.5" 3840x2160 bendable 120hz WOLED, AOC 24G2SP 24" 1920x1080 165hz SDR, LG UltraGear Gaming Monitor 34" 34GN850 3440x1440 144hz (160hz OC) NanoIPS HDR, LG Ultrawide Gaming Monitor 34" 34UC79G 2560x1080 144hz IPS SDR, LG 24MK600 24" 1920x1080 75hz Freesync IPS SDR, BenQ EW2440ZH 24" 1920x1080 75hz VA SDR.


Input Device: Asus ROG Azoth Wireless Mechanical KeyboardAsus ROG Chakram X Origin Wireless MouseLogitech G913 Lightspeed Wireless RGB Mechanical Gaming Keyboard, Logitech G502X Wireless Mouse, Logitech G903 Lightspeed HERO Wireless Gaming Mouse, Logitech Pro X, Logitech MX Keys, Logitech MX Master 3, XBOX Wireless Controller Covert Forces Edition, Corsair K70 RAPIDFIRE Mechanical Gaming Keyboard, Corsair Dark Core RGB Pro SE Wireless Gaming Mouse, Logitech MK850 Wireless Keyboard & Mouse Combos.


Entertainment: LG 55" C9 OLED HDR Smart UHD TV with AI ThinQ®, 65" Samsung AU7000 4K UHD Smart TV, SONOS Beam (Gen 2) Dolby Atmos Soundbar, SONOS Sub Mini, SONOS Era 100 x2, SONOS Era 300 Dolby Atmos, Logitech G560 2.1 USB & Bluetooth Speaker, Logitech Z625 2.1 THX Speaker, Edifier M1370BT 2.1 Bluetooth Speaker, LG SK9Y 5.1.2 channel Dolby Atmos, Hi-Res Audio SoundBar, Sony MDR-Z1R, Bang & Olufsen Beoplay EX, Sony WF-1000XM5, Sony WH-1000XM5, Sony WH-1000XM4, Apple AirPods Pro, Samsung Galaxy Buds2, Nvidia Shield TV Pro (2019 edition), Apple TV 4K (2017 & 2021 Edition), Chromecast with Google TV, Sony UBP-X700 UltraHD Blu-ray, Panasonic DMP-UB400 UltraHD Blu-ray.

 

Mobile & Smart Watch: Apple iPhone 15 Pro Max (Natural Titanium), Apple Watch Series 8 Stainless Steel with Milanese Loop (Graphite).

 

Others Gadgets: Asus SBW-06D2X-U Blu-ray RW Drive, 70 TB Ext. HDD, j5create JVCU100 USB HD Webcam with 360° rotation, ZTE UONU F620, Maxis Fibre WiFi 6 Router, Fantech MPR800 Soft Cloth RGB Gaming Mousepad, Fantech Headset Headphone Stand AC3001S RGB Lighting Base Tower, Infiniteracer RGB Gaming Chair

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

44 minutes ago, Andrewtst said:

How long is your HDMI cable? If it is too long, you should go for Fiber optic HDMI.

 

Also did it work if you direct connect your PC to TV without eARC to your AV/R.

agree. 4k 120 444 10bit max copper hdmi 2.1 is 3m (even then its about cable quality) once you go beyond its a crap shoot if it works or not
and going to avr then to tv also takes a toll.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Andrewtst said:

How long is your HDMI cable? If it is too long, you should go for Fiber optic HDMI.

 

Also did it work if you direct connect your PC to TV without eARC to your AV/R.

Hey! the PC > AVR is 10m
and the AVR to TV is 2m
Yes hooking the PC up to the TV directly worked flawlessly with 4k and HDR10.
So its the receivers fault... I at first was mad and confused because wcery specification sheet of the AVR boast about 4K/60hz HDR support but in my case theres only either 1080p+HDR or 4k+ NO HDR....

I got an answer on a different forum though that probably explains it all...

"There's your problem. The AVR only supports HDMI 2.0, and you are running into bandwidth limitations.

Yes, HDMI 2.0 *can* do 4k60 HDR...at 4:2:0 chroma:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI#Refresh_frequency_limits_for_HDR10_video

So you change your resolution to 4k at 4:4:4/RGB, and the NVIDIA driver/Windows detect you don't have the bandwidth for HDR, and turns it off automatically. What you can then do is set your chroma to 4:2:0 within the NVIDIA control panel, then Windows will let you re-enable HDR again (as you are now within HDMI 2.0 bandwidth limitations).

That's why connecting directly to the TV works; you have HDMI 2.1 through the entire chain, and have zero issues running 4k60 HDR @ 4:4:4/RGB."

CREDIT: 
gamerk316 on tomshardware

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, Tanki_X said:

Hey! the PC > AVR is 10m
and the AVR to TV is 2m
Yes hooking the PC up to the TV directly worked flawlessly with 4k and HDR10.
So its the receivers fault... I at first was mad and confused because wcery specification sheet of the AVR boast about 4K/60hz HDR support but in my case theres only either 1080p+HDR or 4k+ NO HDR....

I got an answer on a different forum though that probably explains it all...

"There's your problem. The AVR only supports HDMI 2.0, and you are running into bandwidth limitations.

Yes, HDMI 2.0 *can* do 4k60 HDR...at 4:2:0 chroma:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI#Refresh_frequency_limits_for_HDR10_video

So you change your resolution to 4k at 4:4:4/RGB, and the NVIDIA driver/Windows detect you don't have the bandwidth for HDR, and turns it off automatically. What you can then do is set your chroma to 4:2:0 within the NVIDIA control panel, then Windows will let you re-enable HDR again (as you are now within HDMI 2.0 bandwidth limitations).

That's why connecting directly to the TV works; you have HDMI 2.1 through the entire chain, and have zero issues running 4k60 HDR @ 4:4:4/RGB."

CREDIT: 
gamerk316 on tomshardware

Congratulate, now you know the reason.  I think it is time to source new AVR if you want full experience. 😊

PC: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X, Gigabyte GeForce RTX 4090 OC 24G, X570 AORUS Elite WIFI Motherboard, HyperX FURY 32GB DDR4-3200 RGB RAM, Creative Sound Blaster AE-9 Sound Card, Samsung 970 Evo Plus M.2 SATA 500GB, ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro M.2 SATA 2TB, Asus HyperX Fury RGB SSD 960GB, Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM 3.5 HDD 2TB, Cooler Master MASTERLIQUID ML240R ARGB, Cooler Master MASTERFAN MF120R ARGB, Cooler Master ELV8 Graphics Card Holder ARGB, Asus ROG Strix 1000G PSU, Lian Li LANCOOL II MESH RGB Case, Windows 11 Pro (22H2).


Laptop: Asus Vivobook "A Bathing Ape" - ASUS Vivobook S 15 OLED BAPE Edition: Intel i9-13900H, 16 GB RAM, 15.6" 2.8K 120hz OLED | Apple MacBook Pro 14" 2023: M2 Pro, 16 GB RAM, NVMe 512 GB | Asus VivoBook 15 OLED: Intel® Core™ i3-1125G4, Intel UHD, 8 GB RAM, Micron NVMe 512 GB | Illegear Z5 SKYLAKE: Intel Core i7-6700HQ, Nvidia Geforce GTX 970M, 16 GB RAM, ADATA SU800 M.2 SATA 512GB.

 

Monitor: Samsung Odyssey OLED G9 49" 5120x1440 240hz QD-OLED HDR, LG OLED Flex 42LX3QPSA 41.5" 3840x2160 bendable 120hz WOLED, AOC 24G2SP 24" 1920x1080 165hz SDR, LG UltraGear Gaming Monitor 34" 34GN850 3440x1440 144hz (160hz OC) NanoIPS HDR, LG Ultrawide Gaming Monitor 34" 34UC79G 2560x1080 144hz IPS SDR, LG 24MK600 24" 1920x1080 75hz Freesync IPS SDR, BenQ EW2440ZH 24" 1920x1080 75hz VA SDR.


Input Device: Asus ROG Azoth Wireless Mechanical KeyboardAsus ROG Chakram X Origin Wireless MouseLogitech G913 Lightspeed Wireless RGB Mechanical Gaming Keyboard, Logitech G502X Wireless Mouse, Logitech G903 Lightspeed HERO Wireless Gaming Mouse, Logitech Pro X, Logitech MX Keys, Logitech MX Master 3, XBOX Wireless Controller Covert Forces Edition, Corsair K70 RAPIDFIRE Mechanical Gaming Keyboard, Corsair Dark Core RGB Pro SE Wireless Gaming Mouse, Logitech MK850 Wireless Keyboard & Mouse Combos.


Entertainment: LG 55" C9 OLED HDR Smart UHD TV with AI ThinQ®, 65" Samsung AU7000 4K UHD Smart TV, SONOS Beam (Gen 2) Dolby Atmos Soundbar, SONOS Sub Mini, SONOS Era 100 x2, SONOS Era 300 Dolby Atmos, Logitech G560 2.1 USB & Bluetooth Speaker, Logitech Z625 2.1 THX Speaker, Edifier M1370BT 2.1 Bluetooth Speaker, LG SK9Y 5.1.2 channel Dolby Atmos, Hi-Res Audio SoundBar, Sony MDR-Z1R, Bang & Olufsen Beoplay EX, Sony WF-1000XM5, Sony WH-1000XM5, Sony WH-1000XM4, Apple AirPods Pro, Samsung Galaxy Buds2, Nvidia Shield TV Pro (2019 edition), Apple TV 4K (2017 & 2021 Edition), Chromecast with Google TV, Sony UBP-X700 UltraHD Blu-ray, Panasonic DMP-UB400 UltraHD Blu-ray.

 

Mobile & Smart Watch: Apple iPhone 15 Pro Max (Natural Titanium), Apple Watch Series 8 Stainless Steel with Milanese Loop (Graphite).

 

Others Gadgets: Asus SBW-06D2X-U Blu-ray RW Drive, 70 TB Ext. HDD, j5create JVCU100 USB HD Webcam with 360° rotation, ZTE UONU F620, Maxis Fibre WiFi 6 Router, Fantech MPR800 Soft Cloth RGB Gaming Mousepad, Fantech Headset Headphone Stand AC3001S RGB Lighting Base Tower, Infiniteracer RGB Gaming Chair

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×