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Every Wireless Keyboard is a Liar… but the Fix Costs $2

TannerMcCoolman
1 hour ago, Raidzor said:

**(beware, even wired headphones and appliances emit very strong EMF radiation, and if we're talking you being near an electric stove/oven/microwave, you probably are receiving years worth of wireless headphones use in just seconds)

Laughs with baofeng UV-5R with transmit of 5 watts.

Everyone, Creator初音ミク Hatsune Miku Google commercial.

 

 

Cameras: Main: Canon 70D - Secondary: Panasonic GX85 - Spare: Samsung ST68. - Action cams: GoPro Hero+, Akaso EK7000pro

Dead cameras: Nikion s4000, Canon XTi

 

Pc's

Spoiler

Dell optiplex 5050 (main) - i5-6500- 20GB ram -500gb samsung 970 evo  500gb WD blue HDD - dvd r/w

 

HP compaq 8300 prebuilt - Intel i5-3470 - 8GB ram - 500GB HDD - bluray drive

 

old windows 7 gaming desktop - Intel i5 2400 - lenovo CIH61M V:1.0 - 4GB ram - 1TB HDD - dual DVD r/w

 

main laptop acer e5 15 - Intel i3 7th gen - 16GB ram - 1TB HDD - dvd drive                                                                     

 

school laptop lenovo 300e chromebook 2nd gen - Intel celeron - 4GB ram - 32GB SSD 

 

audio mac- 2017 apple macbook air A1466 EMC 3178

Any questions? pm me.

#Muricaparrotgang                                                                                   

 

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I have tried to use ESP32 with a USB shield to make a wired keyboard to become a wireless bluetooth keyboard. I use a power bank to power the keyboard and the MCU, and it is very good for couch gaming. Power consumptions are different for each keyboards, but cheap keyboards should draw way less power compare to manchinal keyboards or, in my case, a capacitive keyboard.

 

The code I wrote is below, and it is in public domain. For hardware, I use a ESP32 dev board and a no name "arduino usb host shield mini".

I recommend to have dedicated power for the power source direct to USB power line for the keyboard, ESP32 does not have the power output for a high-end keyboard. Also check the pinout before using the host shield.

 

Spoiler
#include <BleKeyboard.h>
#include <hidboot.h>
#include <usbhub.h>

// Satisfy the IDE, which needs to see the include statment in the ino too.
#ifdef dobogusinclude
#include <spi4teensy3.h>
#endif
#include <SPI.h>

#define LED_BUILTIN 22

BleKeyboard bleKeyboard("Super Adapter");

class KeyboardReportProxy : public HIDReportParser
{
  public:
    union {
      KBDINFO kbdInfo;
      uint8_t bInfo[sizeof (KBDINFO)];
    } prevState;

    union {
      KBDLEDS kbdLeds;
      uint8_t bLeds;
    } kbdLockingKeys;
    bool kbdLEDUpdateRequested = false;

    KeyboardReportProxy() {
      kbdLockingKeys.bLeds = 0;
    };

    bool IsLockingKey(uint8_t key) const {
      return (
               key == UHS_HID_BOOT_KEY_NUM_LOCK
               || key == UHS_HID_BOOT_KEY_CAPS_LOCK
               || key == UHS_HID_BOOT_KEY_SCROLL_LOCK
             );
    }

    uint8_t SetLockingLEDs(USBHID* hid, uint8_t leds) {
      return (hid->SetReport(0, 0/*hid->GetIface()*/, 2, 0, 1, &leds));
    }

    uint8_t HandleLockingLED(USBHID* hid, uint8_t key) {
      uint8_t old_keys = kbdLockingKeys.bLeds;

      switch (key) {
        case UHS_HID_BOOT_KEY_NUM_LOCK:
          kbdLockingKeys.kbdLeds.bmNumLock = ~kbdLockingKeys.kbdLeds.bmNumLock;
          break;
        case UHS_HID_BOOT_KEY_CAPS_LOCK:
          kbdLockingKeys.kbdLeds.bmCapsLock = ~kbdLockingKeys.kbdLeds.bmCapsLock;
          break;
        case UHS_HID_BOOT_KEY_SCROLL_LOCK:
          kbdLockingKeys.kbdLeds.bmScrollLock = ~kbdLockingKeys.kbdLeds.bmScrollLock;
          break;
        default:
          return 0;
      }

      printf("[LED][%s] ", kbdLEDUpdateRequested ? "X" : " ");
      for (int i = 0; i < 8; ++i) {
        printf("%d", bitRead(kbdLockingKeys.bLeds, i));
      }
      printf("\n");

      // kbdLEDUpdateRequested = false;

      if (old_keys != kbdLockingKeys.bLeds && hid) {
        uint8_t lockLeds = kbdLockingKeys.bLeds;
        return (hid->SetReport(0, 0/*hid->GetIface()*/, 2, 0, 1, &lockLeds));
      }

      return 0;
    };

    void Parse(USBHID *hid, bool is_rpt_id, uint8_t len, uint8_t *buf)
    {
      // On error - return
      if (buf[2] == 1) {
        return;
      }

      uint8_t keys[6];
      for (uint8_t i = 2; i < 8; i++) {
        keys[i - 2] = buf[i];

        bool down = false;
        for (uint8_t j = 2; j < 8; j++) {
          if (buf[i] == prevState.bInfo[j] && buf[i] != 1) {
            down = true;
          }
        }

        if (!down) {
          HandleLockingLED(hid, buf[i]);
        }
      }

      if (kbdLEDUpdateRequested) {
        SetLockingLEDs(hid, kbdLockingKeys.bLeds);
        kbdLEDUpdateRequested = false;
      }

      printf("mod=");
      for (int i = 0; i < 8; ++i) {
        printf("%d", bitRead(buf[0], i));
      }

      for (uint8_t i = 2; i < 8; i++) {
        printf(" 0x%02X", buf[i]);
      }
      printf("\n");

      bleKeyboard.report(buf[0], keys);

      for (uint8_t i = 0; i < 8; i++) {
        prevState.bInfo[i] = buf[i];
      }
    }
};

USB     Usb;
HIDBoot<USB_HID_PROTOCOL_KEYBOARD>    HidKeyboard(&Usb);

KeyboardReportProxy kbproxy;

bool bleConnecting = true;

union {
  KBDLEDS kbdLeds;
  uint8_t bLeds;
} flashingLEDs;
unsigned long lastLEDTime = 0;

void setup()
{
  flashingLEDs.bLeds = 0;
  pinMode(LED_BUILTIN, OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, HIGH);

  Serial.begin( 115200 );
#if !defined(__MIPSEL__)
  while (!Serial); // Wait for serial port to connect - used on Leonardo, Teensy and other boards with built-in USB CDC serial connection
#endif

  Serial.println("Starting USB");
  if (Usb.Init() == -1) {
    Serial.println("OSC did not start.");
  }

  delay(200);
  HidKeyboard.SetReportParser(0, &kbproxy);
}

void ConnectBLE()
{
  Serial.println("Starting BLE");
  bleKeyboard.setLEDCallback([] (uint8_t leds) {
    printf("BleLEDs=");
    for (int i = 0; i < 8; ++i) {
      printf("%d", bitRead(leds, i));
    }
    printf("\n");

    kbproxy.kbdLockingKeys.bLeds = leds;
    kbproxy.kbdLEDUpdateRequested = true;
    kbproxy.SetLockingLEDs(&HidKeyboard, kbproxy.kbdLockingKeys.bLeds);
  });
  bleKeyboard.begin();
  bleConnecting = true;
}

bool bleInit = false;
bool hidReady = false;

void loop()
{
  Usb.Task();
  if (!HidKeyboard.isReady()) {
    return;
  }

  if (!hidReady) {
    hidReady = true;
    Serial.println("HidKeyboard Ready");
  }

  if (!bleInit) {
    ConnectBLE();
    bleInit = true;
  }

  if (bleKeyboard.isConnected()) {
    if (bleConnecting) {
      printf("BLE Connected\n");

      digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, LOW);

      kbproxy.kbdLEDUpdateRequested = true;
      bleConnecting = false;
      lastLEDTime = millis() - 500;
    }
    return;
  }

  if (!bleConnecting) {
    printf("BLE Disconnected\n");
    bleConnecting = true;
  }

  auto now = millis();
  if (now - lastLEDTime <= 500) {
    return;
  }

  lastLEDTime = now;

  digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, flashingLEDs.bLeds ? HIGH : LOW);

  // failed to set leds, do not update internal state
  if (kbproxy.SetLockingLEDs(&HidKeyboard, flashingLEDs.bLeds) != 0) {
    return;
  }

  if (flashingLEDs.bLeds == 0) {
    flashingLEDs.kbdLeds.bmNumLock = 1;
    flashingLEDs.kbdLeds.bmCapsLock = 1;
    flashingLEDs.kbdLeds.bmScrollLock = 1;
  } else {
    flashingLEDs.kbdLeds.bmNumLock = 0;
    flashingLEDs.kbdLeds.bmCapsLock = 0;
    flashingLEDs.kbdLeds.bmScrollLock = 0;
  }
}

 

 

 

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I'm a bit off topic here but I'm still on a wireless keyboard...

 

Instead of installing a wireless charger, I added a 18650 battery holder to my Logitech K750.  It's a solar powered keyboard with a coin sized rechargeable battery, but I have a keyboard drawer so the keyboard never see the light of day to get charged.  I soldered on the battery holder and used one of those cheap Chinese batteries with 1200mah capacity and I get more than 2 years worth of battery life.  I have plenty of 18650 batteries at home and swapping batteries once every 2 years is much more convenient than having to align the keyboard for charging every so often.  Curious how long a quality 3400mah battery will last.  Anyways it's an alternative from setting up wireless charging.  Of course different keyboards will yield different battery life, but most rechargeable keyboard will have the crappy lipo batteries that dies in months and could use an upgrade in capacity.  (note that you can't hook up both batteries in parallel if they're different capacities)

 

The glaring downside is the huge protruding battery holder on my 6mm thick keyboard. 🙂  But hey mine is sitting in a keyboard drawer.

 

Photos here: https://lanzerdiy.wordpress.com/2017/02/14/logitech-k750-solar-keyboard-ugly-mod/

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On 2/12/2023 at 9:58 PM, Raidzor said:

If you live in an apartment building, you will have dozens of wifi networks and bluetooth devices all around you. Unless you enclose yourself in a Faraday cage until the end of your life, even if you completely reject wireless**, you would be looking at at most 10% less exposure to EMF. Now you do you, just wanted to give you an additional perspective on things.

I got a $200+ device to measure this and you are wrong.

 

Bluetooth has a range of about 20cm. 

WiFi has a range of about 2m. 

Wireless landline has a range of about 1.5m. 

Mobile phone has a range of about 2.5m.

 

Don't confuse the signal reach with the field the sending/receiving device generates. The field gets weaker the further away you are from the source. The above distances are in relation to when the strength is below recommended values for human health concerns.

 

Some bluetooth earpieces will generate as much as a microwave oven. But I guess as everyone knows holding your head next to a running microwave oven is perfectly safe and not discouraged at all.

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On 2/11/2023 at 11:38 PM, FlybyLV said:

I had the same idea about these when I was browsing aliexpress for some stuff and found these. I really enjoy the freedom of wireless, but not the cables which eventually have to be re-attached and the table is just full of standby cables all the time.

Just wanted to show off my autistic setup, bye

 

I have been looking at start using those magnetic cables specially for the wireless headphones that require charging more frequently (and that are also my only device still not using usb type C). Those things were very popular years ago before wireless charging was a thing, but I don't seem to find anything from a reputable seller. Which ones are you using?

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Hey,for the idea that you mentioned about the desk, a up(like Youtuber) from Bilibili China, he got an idea and he made it real. It's sooo cool. 

https://b23.tv/3LGc7bH

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Worked well, not bothering taking the keyboard apart. My observations:

 

  • It just keeps charging all the time and is fairly warm under there now
    • I might add a timer so it only charges overnight or something like that
    • New LTT Store idea: Heated Desk Pads.
  • My first choice of charger claimed 20mm but only managed the 12mm of my desk and could not penetrate the desk pad. (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09Q3N4Y6H)
  • Second, more expensive, 30mm charger manages it no problem and doesn't mine the keyboards being raised a bit as well. Even came with a cool locator disk that lights up in the direction you need to move. (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BJP9L9GT)
    • Nice powerful charger also means I don't need to worry too much about the location, roughly line it up with the lines on the desk pad.
    • Keyboard now warm to the touch!

 

Pics

204911389_frontside.thumb.jpg.9ed9fe4a9431b25e8a5d058b70479a6b.jpg

 

backside.thumb.jpg.1be2b184e6325f8ad7401955e534ca37.jpg

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To the people here who don't see the practicality of a wireless keyboard: how often do you clean your desk? Do you love moving wires from one place to another when cleaning? I surely don't. 

 

If you don't mind the wire it's absolutely fine, I understand the advantages, no worrying about charging, better latency, makes sense from this perspective. But there are other perspectives. You realize not everyone uses the computer in the same way, right? Or even the same type of computers.

For example, I have a PC where I use a wireless keyboard, but for work I also use a laptop, and having a wireless keyboard and mouse allows me to take the laptop somewhere else quickly without having to unplug a bunch of cables. Also my wireless keyboard can switch between my work PC and my laptop with just a press of a button. 

 

Regarding wireless charging, I don't know if I would spend 100+ dollars just to get the wireless charger, it's all usb-C now so i just keep a single wire handy on my desk, i plug it into my 15w charging capable laptop port, just like i charge my headphones, my phone, etc. Easy peasy. But just the idea of wireless charging, the tech behind it, is cool. Especially cool is the wireless charging receiver which is so cheap, it's crazy! 
 

And for those who worry about the efficiency of charging wirelessly. Really? You think that's the planet's problem? It's using so little electricity, it's crazy. Worry more about other stuff that really uses our planet's resources. The tiny battery in your keyboard can easily be charged with a small solar panel for example, i mean it's really not using that much power anyway!

 

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Challenge accepted!  Here is how we do it with RF Wireless Power!   As an added bonus, the keyboard works WITHOUT any batteries as well!

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Hey guys, just saw the wireless keyboard diy vid, hence I'm on this thread. 

 

Anywho. I broke my keyboard, K63, rip. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 2/11/2023 at 3:10 PM, Jed Byrtus said:

THIS IS SOMEHTING THAT HAS BEEN BOTHERING ME ABOUT MY WIRELESS KEYBOARD FOREVER!

It seems so simple now. I'm just gonna tape one of these to the underside of my desk pad and put one of the wireless charging things on my keyboard!

 

Ordered on Ali so I'll see if I remember to update this with my results next month!

 

Screenshot_20230211-150720_AliExpress.thumb.jpg.63d0de2db402304a680f7d7a2cdbbc68.jpg

So I did it. Took a cheap desk pad, taped the charger on the bottom, cut a little hole in it for the indicator light. Combined with a stick on receiver from Ali express and it works perfectly. Now I have to figure out what to do with my joystick when I'm not using it.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello dear LTT team and everyone else here.
I have a question in the video, the Logitech MX Mechanical Mini was used. Since I have exactly the same one, I would also like to build it. Could you please upload a high-resolution image of the contact surfaces for soldering? Then I wouldn't have to destroy an usb-c cable. To look for them myself. Or do you know if they are labelled on the Logitech? And since you have done this anyway, I assume that you may have it directly! Thank you in advance.

 

Best Joe

 

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Please LTT team, post your mods pics to the keyboard, I have the same keyboard as well and I Dont have a cable to destroy

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry for posting on an old forum topic, but anyone got any idea how this circuit they made with QI chargers is wired up?
Kinda wanna do something similar to what Linus said about embedding the circuit into a fairly cheap particle board tabletop.

https://imgur.com/a/4nVnO9E

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On 4/21/2023 at 8:38 PM, LinusSockTips said:

Sorry for posting on an old forum topic, but anyone got any idea how this circuit they made with QI chargers is wired up?
Kinda wanna do something similar to what Linus said about embedding the circuit into a fairly cheap particle board tabletop.

https://imgur.com/a/4nVnO9E

I wired it up in parallel. Probably not the absolute safest way to do it off of a micro-usb, but it worked for the purpose of having only 1 active at a time and only needing 5W off of it. If I were doing it again I'd probably use a pd trigger and a buck converter

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On 4/8/2023 at 8:31 AM, fattiewin said:

Please LTT team, post your mods pics to the keyboard, I have the same keyboard as well and I Dont have a cable to destroy

Hey Since we didn't get an answer, but I wanted to build it, I used an usb c cable. You can see the pin assignment in the two pictures and it works perfectly.

Screenshot 2023-04-28 at 10.52.47.png

Screenshot 2023-04-28 at 10.52.58.png

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On 4/28/2023 at 1:18 AM, TannerMcCoolman said:

I wired it up in parallel. Probably not the absolute safest way to do it off of a micro-usb, but it worked for the purpose of having only 1 active at a time and only needing 5W off of it. If I were doing it again I'd probably use a pd trigger and a buck converter

Hoping to get anyone's opinion on this, especially Tanner's.

So my original plan was to wire them up in parallel similar to how you guys did it in the video but given how you recommend a PD trigger and step down converter, I honestly don't know how to wire up the transmitters anymore.
My goal is to have my whole desk space be one Qi charging slab capable of fast charging up to 18W or 20W.
I understand that that's overkill for the keyboard, but I want to be able to plop my phone or any device I mod with a Qi charging receiver on my desk and let it charge quickly.

These are my two candidates for transmitters (I'll probably buy three or more of whichever one I choose).


https://imgur.com/a/TOx4aqV

Any suggestions with how I should wire these up would be greatly appreciated!
 

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On 4/28/2023 at 1:18 AM, TannerMcCoolman said:

I wired it up in parallel. Probably not the absolute safest way to do it off of a micro-usb, but it worked for the purpose of having only 1 active at a time and only needing 5W off of it. If I were doing it again I'd probably use a pd trigger and a buck converter

Not sure if I'm guessing right but after a bit more reading up you probably meant that the PD trigger is for bringing the voltage up close enough to the necessary output voltage and have the buck converter either step up or step down the voltage to the actual sum of the parallel circuit(?)

Pretty new to hobbyist electronics projects so not entirely sure about my guess.

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On 5/7/2023 at 11:58 AM, sgreenberg said:

Will this mod work on Aluminum keyboards?

It was mentioned in the vid but you'd need to remove the portion of the aluminum where you want the receiver and transmitter to connect.
The metal will prevent a lot of the (already inefficient) charging from happening.

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For those simpletons who like the basic idea of this but want something a little more practical -- I completely forgot magnetic cables exist.

As much as I love the idea of zero wires, Realistically I have an outlet on my desk anyway with a usb cable for random devices.  I have it pushed to the far end and I pull it towards me when needed.  This lets my primary desk space be wire free, but easy to access a charger when needed.

 

So for me with a G915 which annoyingly still has a Micro USB, I can plug the charging hole with the magnetic end, and just drag over the magnetic cable when needed - no lineup required.  So now it takes 1 second to plug it in vs 5-10 seconds of lining up Micro USB the right way.  Also considering that micro USB eventually wears out I've been a big fan of this cable.

 

I wouldn't use these on anything that draws a decent amount - I'm sure it's not to any official spec - but for the keyboard it's been fantastic

 

 

example:

 

712Cuk47fUL._SL1500_.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I was thinking to get the Logitech G715, but I was wondering the same... What the point to have a wireless keyboard, if I always need to plug it to charge it ?

Then I saw that guy who did something a bit similar than Linus but 3 years ago :

 

I'm currently looking if there is an equivalent of "UTS-1 Invisible Wireless Charger" on Aliexpress.

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  • 2 months later...
On 2/11/2023 at 11:53 AM, simpsonfan409 said:

on a sidenote, i thought linus hated e-waste, what's more e-waste than the degrading battery of a mostly stationary keyboard? seems like he was the wrong guy to host this pointless project.

You have a point, but as wireless power transfer technology becomes more efficient it would be worthwhile to look back at this type of application for it. Also yeah, it would probably be a better idea to make something stationary to be completely powered wirelessly rather than charging a battery wirelessly, but then the problem would be that it would completely disconnect if it moves out of range.

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