First time builder freaking out...

[TheOriginalMrMonkey]

I was so close. I thought I triple checked everything.... and then when I powered it up for the first time, I got this:

 

This is in a NR200P Max case which came with it's own custom 280mm AIO and 850W SFX Gold PSU.

 

It powers up. The mouse, keyboard, video from the GPU ( 3080 Ti ), and some fans begin to spin, but I am lost as to what to do to troubleshot this.

 

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks

 

UPDATE 1 and 2 BELOW

 

Intel Core i7-12700K Desktop Processor 12 (8P+4E) Cores up to 5.0 GHz Unlocked  LGA1700 600 Series Chipset 125W

ASUS TUF Gaming NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti OC Edition Graphics Card (PCIe 4.0, 12GB GDDR6X, HDMI 2.1, DisplayPort 1.4a, Dual Ball Fan Bearings, Military-Grade Certification, GPU Tweak II)

MSI MEG Z690I Unify Gaming Motherboard (Mini ITX, 12th Gen Intel Core, LGA 1700 Socket, DDR5, PCIe 5, 2.5G LAN, M.2 Slots, Wi-Fi 6E)

CORSAIR Vengeance DDR5 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5 5600 (PC5-44800) C36 1.25V - Black

WD_BLACK 2TB SN850X NVMe Internal Gaming SSD Solid State Drive - Gen4 PCIe, M.2 2280, Up to 7,300 MB/s - WDS200T2X0E

Cooler Master NR200P MAX SFF Small Form Factor Mini-ITX Case with Custom 280mm AIO, 850W SFX Gold PSU, Triple-Slot GPU, Premium PCIe Gen4 Riser, Tempered Glass or Vented Panel Option

 

 

 

UPDATE 1:

More Pictures. I pulled the GPU since that seemed to initially be okay ( it sent a signal to the monitor.) I'll test using the mobo HDMI out since I have a 12700K.

 

Plus I found out that the AIO pump cable is 3 pin and the mobo pump_fan! header is 4 pin. I was told this would be okay. Am I wrong? Is this the issue?

 

THANKS  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

UPDATE 2:

 

After much testing and internet recon, it seems to me that the NR200P MAX I have shipped with a bad AIO pump. ( insert rage screaming )

 

So I've started an RMA with Cooler Masters and I hope I'll have better luck with the next one.

 

PM me if you want updates, but I think this thread can die... just like my AIO pump did before it shipped  

 

 

 

[AnewUser3021]

Did you peel the plastic off

[Shimejii]

Not gonna lie, buying a Case, PSU, AIO seems a bit sktetchy. It sounds like you either didnt remove the plastic,  plug the pump header in, with power, or the pump is dead.

 

Also be mindful of the 3080ti and SFF PSU, they do not go well together. Using high power GPUs with SFF is just not a good combo.

[TheOriginalMrMonkey]

I removed the plastic. I plugged the plug into the sys_fan header.

 

CORRECTION: I plugged it into the pump_fan! header on the MEG Z690I UNIFY mobo

[TheOriginalMrMonkey]

19 minutes ago, AnewUser3021 said:

Did you peel the plastic off

Yes

[TheOriginalMrMonkey]

19 minutes ago, Shimejii said:

Also be mindful of the 3080ti and SFF PSU, they do not go well together. Using high power GPUs with SFF is just not a good combo.

I've not heard of this before. I double checked the power ratings, draw, and such. Can you explain more?

[Zando_]

1 minute ago, TheOriginalMrMonkey said:

I removed the plastic. I plugged the plug into the sys_fan header.

Plug it into CPU-Fan, that header will always power on (and you always want the pump running), the sys fan might not.

[dizmo]

11 minutes ago, TheOriginalMrMonkey said:

I removed the plastic. I plugged the plug into the sys_fan header.

There's a pump header. Use that. It's for AIOs. The sys_fan is for system fans.

[TheOriginalMrMonkey]

1 minute ago, dizmo said:

There's a pump header. Use that. It's for AIOs. The sys_fan is for system fans.

Yes. Yes I did. I actually mistyped before. Sorry. The pump is plugged into the pump_fan1 header

[Shimejii]

15 minutes ago, TheOriginalMrMonkey said:

I removed the plastic. I plugged the plug into the sys_fan header.

CPU cooler needs to be on CPU fan, not System fan. Also did it come with a USB 2.0/3.0 plug for power? Make sure thats in as well.

 

13 minutes ago, TheOriginalMrMonkey said:

I've not heard of this before. I double checked the power ratings, draw, and such. Can you explain more?

So Small Form factor PSUs have some shortcomings due to their size shrink. One of the factors is Transient spikes, a big issue for 3080, 3080ti, 3090 and 3090ti cards for some 750-850W PSUS, and a rather large issue for most Small form factor 650-850W Psus. This can have the effect of the system shutting down midgame, or during an intensive task using the GPU. 

 

Watch the Gamers Nexus on GPU Power Issue 

 

[TheOriginalMrMonkey]

7 minutes ago, Shimejii said:

CPU cooler needs to be on CPU fan, not System fan. Also did it come with a USB 2.0/3.0 plug for power? Make sure thats in as well.

 

So Small Form factor PSUs have some shortcomings due to their size shrink. One of the factors is Transient spikes, a big issue for 3080, 3080ti, 3090 and 3090ti cards for some 750-850W PSUS, and a rather large issue for most Small form factor 650-850W Psus. This can have the effect of the system shutting down midgame, or during an intensive task using the GPU. 

 

Watch the Gamers Nexus on GPU Power Issue 

 

Thanks.

 

btw - I actually mistyped before. Sorry. The pump is plugged into the pump_fan1 header

[TheOriginalMrMonkey]

23 minutes ago, Zando_ said:

Plug it into CPU-Fan, that header will always power on (and you always want the pump running), the sys fan might not.

I actually mistyped before. Sorry. The pump is plugged into the pump_fan1 header

[Damascus]

15 minutes ago, Shimejii said:

So Small Form factor PSUs have some shortcomings due to their size shrink. One of the factors is Transient spikes, a big issue for 3080, 3080ti, 3090 and 3090ti cards for some 750-850W PSUS, and a rather large issue for most Small form factor 650-850W Psus. This can have the effect of the system shutting down midgame, or during an intensive task using the GPU. 

 

Watch the Gamers Nexus on GPU Power Issue 

This isn’t relevant to OP, the included CM 850w unit is one of the bulkiest options whereas the H1 PSU is prone to failure.  Beyond that, why would you think that the system not booting is caused by OCP?  

[Damascus]

33 minutes ago, TheOriginalMrMonkey said:

I removed the plastic. I plugged the plug into the sys_fan header.

 

CORRECTION: I plugged it into the pump_fan! header on the MEG Z690I UNIFY mobo

3 things to help troubleshooting:

• Put your hand on the AIO pump - is it vibrating? 
• picture of the motherboard and cpu block
• repaste, it never hurts 

[johnt]

Looks like a weak connection between the CPU and cooler, little to no thermal grease (or very low quality), possibly your CPU is bend gate, or your pump isn't working. I would definitely clean the stock thermal paste and get something good like Arctic MX-4, MX-5, or Noctua NT-H1.

 

I recommend you change the stock ILM with a bending correction frame, but that isn't going to solve this problem.

 

Don't worry about the 3080 discussion above. Yes it's a heater of a GPU and not ideal in a mini ITX case, but that isn't causing your problem. I can tame a 3070 ti in a NR200... I don't think a 3080 ti is going to cause this high of a spike in bios lol

[TheOriginalMrMonkey]

2 hours ago, johnt said:

Looks like a weak connection between the CPU and cooler, little to no thermal grease (or very low quality), possibly your CPU is bend gate, or your pump isn't working. I would definitely clean the stock thermal paste and get something good like Arctic MX-4, MX-5, or Noctua NT-H1.

 

I recommend you change the stock ILM with a bending correction frame, but that isn't going to solve this problem.

 

Don't worry about the 3080 discussion above. Yes it's a heater of a GPU and not ideal in a mini ITX case, but that isn't causing your problem. I can tame a 3070 ti in a NR200... I don't think a 3080 ti is going to cause this high of a spike in bios lol

I am using the Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste. I believe I put an ample portion on when I connected it.  

 

And thx, I'm not too worried about the GPU heating up. I added two additional Noctua fans to the build plus I and not a heavy hardcore gamer. btw - noob here - what's an ILM?

 

[TheOriginalMrMonkey]

2 hours ago, Damascus said:

3 things to help troubleshooting:

• Put your hand on the AIO pump - is it vibrating? 
• picture of the motherboard and cpu block
• repaste, it never hurts 

I will try to feel the pump on the next start up. I'll have to take the GPU out temporarily to do so but the mobo and chip have integrated graphics and HDMI so I can have a monitor with those.

 

I'll also snap a picture of the mobo with the AIO on it and post it soon.

 

thanks

[johnt]

7 hours ago, TheOriginalMrMonkey said:

what's an ILM?

The ILM stands for the independent loading mechanism. It's all that metal that holds your CPU in place. The bending correction frame (BCF) replaces that metal with a decent chunk of aluminum. The 12-gen processors are horizontal instead of square, so they have a natural tendency to bend as they warm up, which causes separation from the cooler. We are talking a very small amount here, but my testing (and everyone elses) shows the BCF helps keep the processor from bending, and thus reducing your temperatures because the CPU has a better contact with the cooler. Now again, this isn't going to solve your problem in this case. Typically the temperature improvements are between 3 to 8 C when you swap the ILM with the BCF. The Youtube reviwers claim the BCF is most helpful at extreme over clocking. This has not been my experience. It is helpful at all clock speeds, including reducing idle temps. Intel should be including one of these BCF's in the oversized boxes the CPUs come with in my opinion.

 

BCF: https://a.co/d/2gpeMAu I would still use the NT-H1 paste

 

I'm very curious about this issue now. I don't think you are going to resolve it without reseating your cooler. Looking forward to the pics.

[TheOriginalMrMonkey]

2 hours ago, johnt said:

The ILM stands for the independent loading mechanism. It's all that metal that holds your CPU in place. The bending correction frame (BCF) replaces that metal with a decent chunk of aluminum. The 12-gen processors are horizontal instead of square, so they have a natural tendency to bend as they warm up, which causes separation from the cooler. We are talking a very small amount here, but my testing (and everyone elses) shows the BCF helps keep the processor from bending, and thus reducing your temperatures because the CPU has a better contact with the cooler. Now again, this isn't going to solve your problem in this case. Typically the temperature improvements are between 3 to 8 C when you swap the ILM with the BCF. The Youtube reviwers claim the BCF is most helpful at extreme over clocking. This has not been my experience. It is helpful at all clock speeds, including reducing idle temps. Intel should be including one of these BCF's in the oversized boxes the CPUs come with in my opinion.

 

BCF: https://a.co/d/2gpeMAu I would still use the NT-H1 paste

 

I'm very curious about this issue now. I don't think you are going to resolve it without reseating your cooler. Looking forward to the pics.

Thanks for the info. I will certainly check that out.

 

I have work now but will post additional picts in about 8 hours

[TheOriginalMrMonkey]

On 9/21/2022 at 6:07 AM, johnt said:

The ILM stands for the independent loading mechanism. It's all that metal that holds your CPU in place. The bending correction frame (BCF) replaces that metal with a decent chunk of aluminum. The 12-gen processors are horizontal instead of square, so they have a natural tendency to bend as they warm up, which causes separation from the cooler. We are talking a very small amount here, but my testing (and everyone elses) shows the BCF helps keep the processor from bending, and thus reducing your temperatures because the CPU has a better contact with the cooler. Now again, this isn't going to solve your problem in this case. Typically the temperature improvements are between 3 to 8 C when you swap the ILM with the BCF. The Youtube reviwers claim the BCF is most helpful at extreme over clocking. This has not been my experience. It is helpful at all clock speeds, including reducing idle temps. Intel should be including one of these BCF's in the oversized boxes the CPUs come with in my opinion.

 

BCF: https://a.co/d/2gpeMAu I would still use the NT-H1 paste

 

I'm very curious about this issue now. I don't think you are going to resolve it without reseating your cooler. Looking forward to the pics.

Thanks again for the info. I did some internet recon and I think I'll swap to that.

 

I'll have plenty of time to do it right since I've determined that my NR200P Max shipped with a bad AIO pump. A huge bummer, especially for my first build, but that's building a PC life. Thanks again.

[johnt]

5 minutes ago, TheOriginalMrMonkey said:

plenty of time to do it right since I've determined that my NR200P Max shipped with a bad AIO pump

How did you determine that? It doesn't seem far off though. Temps shouldn't get that high in BIOS.

[TheOriginalMrMonkey]

On 9/22/2022 at 7:48 PM, johnt said:

How did you determine that? It doesn't seem far off though. Temps shouldn't get that high in BIOS.

First, loads of comments across the internet about the AIO that ships with the NR200P MAX being DOA. I should have checked more forums before posting here, but that's what being a noob is like, isn't it?

Second, connecting the pump cable to three different fan headers on the mobo, all of which worked for other fans, and the pump didn't move at all.

Third, setting the pump header to full power DC in the BIOS did nothing to move the pump.

 

So I did contacted Cooler Masters, did an service ticket, and I'm currently awaiting an new AIO pump and radiator.

[johnt]

On 9/27/2022 at 5:50 PM, TheOriginalMrMonkey said:

but that's what being a noob is like, isn't it

No judgement! A noob wouldn't have figured out how to test it using different headers and adjusting BIOS settings. I'm glad CM isn't giving you the run around. Corsair and EVGA coolers go on sale often if you find yourself with this problem out of warranty in the future.